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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Charge Air Suntion Line,(bank 2) Leaking Oil. PLZ HELP!!
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12-11-2008, 01:08 AM | #23 |
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12-11-2008, 01:14 AM | #24 |
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For kicks, I tried my own suggestion and replaced the rear DV hose with the stock, plastic one. It snipped free of the stock DV just fine, and clamped down nice and tight on the Forge valve. It extends quite a bit given its accordion nature and the pre-shaped fit means it plugged right in.
Happy to report that this also kept the intake pipe "put" and snug against the turbo on the snout. Please remember of course that I'm sans clamp at the present moment, but this is a good sign. The stock front DV hose, however, cannot be clipped off and reused. It proves to be too short. But I've never had any issues with the heavy duty hose on the front intake pipe. So I have a mis-matched setup for now. I'm going to do some 'sperimenting with various hose types and see if I can find something as a permanent, yet flexible solution for us Forge valve users. That said, many folks may never have an issue so take my experiences here with a grain of salt. For all I know, my rear turbo never had a clamp installed to begin with...I'm unsure of what the gasket ring (clamp) looks like, so if it's a solid piece that doesn't come apart in the middle somehow (like a screw type clamp) then I don't see how it would have come off at all, pointing to a missing clamp altogether. Not unheard of I suppose. |
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12-12-2008, 03:59 AM | #25 |
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Just wanted to add something while thinking about it...
I never had any indication that this connection was loose. No CEL's, good boost (a bit of odd oscillation with the V3 maps in the last month but stable and strong boost numbers otherwise)...nothing to indicate that I had this problem. Zero oil usage in 10K miles. |
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12-12-2008, 08:19 AM | #27 | |
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Quote:
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12-12-2008, 06:17 PM | #29 |
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Yup! I posted that simply so other folks may not assume that since they're not having CELs or issues of any sort, that they are in the clear and that they shouldn't maybe take a peek when they can.
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12-12-2008, 06:18 PM | #30 |
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I've had both - the hoses they include are the same (same length, same material, etc). I had silver at first, and bought black when they came out.
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12-12-2008, 07:06 PM | #31 |
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12-12-2008, 09:34 PM | #32 |
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BTW, I did find another hose solution. I've ordered a 25 foot length of this stuff and I'll see how it works out. Flexible (almost shape-able they tell me), it won't collapse, and it's even good to 15psi.
http://www.freelin-wade.com/coiledtu...c-1_27_33.html It's the 1" ID of course...I'll take pics and pressure test it (bench) before installing. Seeing as how our valves typically vent at 15+psi, the sustained pressure in the intake return hose likely isn't all that high, and in short bursts. The big bonus for me will be if it's as shape-able as they make it out to be, especially for the rear valve. Should be here next week! |
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04-07-2011, 01:26 PM | #33 |
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I am currenlty havning the same issue with the rear turbo inlet tube. There is an o-ring that holds it in place on the inside and when oil/dirt gets all over it.... well its much less effective at holding the tube in place.
If anyone has removed the whole rear turbo tube, or enough to get the o-ring out, replace it, and re-install, please pm me as I was quoted $800 from the stealership to replace the inlet tube by my SA. I emailed him the page of parts and asked him why???? He said that the tech, I threw $60 cash at for any extra effort he may put in taking care of this, would call me. I am still waiting for a call. I would like to try replacing just the o ring and try that. Someone said that there is a bolt or something on the inside???? Pics would be nice. Wonder why Bmw says I need a whole new tube and why CPO does not cover it?? Also, when I target boost over 15psi, it takes a few gears for the snails to get there. There doesn't seem to be a leak on the boost side so this must be the cause. It looks like the o ring goes in the inlet tube, and once slid in place, the oring locks on the turbo mouth....??? The torque bolt on the back side of the motor is hard to get too to take it off but I am afraid that I won't be able to fish the tube out and fish the new one back to the turbo. If someone has done this.....just to know that it can be done will tell me what I need to know. I read somewhere that the engine needs to be lifted to work on the back side turbo. |
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04-08-2011, 05:44 PM | #34 |
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BMW says that instructions call for a transmission drop to access the rear turbo for an inlet tube exchange.
If BMW can't change it out without dropping the tranny, I guess I couldn't either. Anyone have a different experience?
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JB4 beta 15 ohms FSB,AEM inline filter/ CM 10, ETS fmic, ER custom made charge pipe,TSW Donnington 18's,Simitumo HTRZ3, Injen DCI, AR DPs, Forge DVs, AA SLD, Koni FSD, ZSP springs.
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05-09-2011, 07:36 AM | #37 |
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Looking at the TIS picture, it looks like it would be held on by a typically hose clamp. I wouldn't think you would have to drop the tranny to tighten the clamp.
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05-09-2011, 09:12 AM | #38 |
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The pipe is not held on by a screw or clamp. Supposedly there is an O-ring on the inside of the pipe that is supposed to keep it on. There isn't enough clearance to pull the pipe off the turbo inlet to actually see for sure. I don't know why I didn't think of using a hose clamp to tighten it on though. Thanks for the idea. It will be a little rigged, but should still do the job. Its been loose for a long time (I had noticed an oil residue on the turbo outlet pipe a long time ago) but I could never figure out where the oil was coming from. I don't know why I didn't bring it up while the car was still under warranty. Oh well. Once I took the down pipe off it was easy to see where it was coming from. The oil residue was the blow-by being cycled back into the intake tract.
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06-01-2011, 01:00 AM | #40 |
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I actually wire tied the tube to the turbo and pulled on the tab like hell. Pulled that tube pretty snug onto the turbo. The I wire tied my inlet tube up top to the manifold. This has been my temp solution until I can get a new oring gasket to try.
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JB4 beta 15 ohms FSB,AEM inline filter/ CM 10, ETS fmic, ER custom made charge pipe,TSW Donnington 18's,Simitumo HTRZ3, Injen DCI, AR DPs, Forge DVs, AA SLD, Koni FSD, ZSP springs.
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06-01-2011, 02:47 AM | #41 |
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Is this the pipe we are talking about?
If so, (even if at all possible) how would you fit a hose clamp on this plastic manufactured piece? Even more interesting is the fact that the pipe is fixed in place at 3 locations as indicated (2 Bolts and a metal tab).........so how this can move or come loose is quite strange.
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07-01-2011, 10:20 PM | #42 |
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Was it actually the as bov causing this? I have the same issue and that bov. Did u end up removing it?
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07-14-2013, 12:33 AM | #43 |
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I'm experiencing the same issue - I got the rubber seal but cant get it in ... Is removing downpipes worth the effort ?
I was also thinking of drilling a rubber piece to the engine wall to make sure the pipe stay inserted at all times, what do u guys think ? |
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