[KnighTT]

Alright, I had some issues pop up last night I'll cover here.

The vacuum line that goes to the fuel tank venting system

There is a line that connects to your throttle body that provides vacuum to the fuel tank ventilation system. It has a check valve right after the throttle body and then a electric valve that opens and closes based on, something. Anyway, the check valve keeps boost from going down the line.

I replaced the ridged plastic lines with silicon hose and had to make a custom length due to the VTT adapter that allows you to tap in for the low side catch can.

Well, due to all the boost slamming against that check valve, the silicon hose popped off. This causes all sorts of issues as well as a boost leak so I went ahead and cut new silicon lines and then hose clamped the assembly before the check valve. This should prevent this from popping off again.

FYI - When this line pops off, or has a leak, it will cause a 2D2E code and your car will stall at lower RPMs. Feels like you are running on less cylinders. You'll hear a whistling sound from the engine bay. Your car will run terrible. This line popped off during a pull onto the highway a couple weeks ago and the sound it made, and how it felt, made me feel like I just blew my engine. Luckily when I pulled over it took a few seconds to clearly see the line popped off. Started the car back up and it was 100% again.

Makes me remember years back when anyone had issues with the N54 the first 20 posts were "check for boost/vacuum leak". The truth is, if you have a boost or vacuum leak anywhere on this platform, it will cause issues you feel. They don't go away until you sort out the leaks. It's just a sensitive platform. It is also why every single vacuum in my engine is new, thicker,. silicon. Lol.

I also think I need to find some thicker o-rings for the VTT vacuum adapter. I've never felt like that assembly is really "in-there" and solid. If it's not 100% sealed this is a good place to get a small boost leak. May be the reason when the target is 20PSI and you are getting more like 19.



Steering Rack Leak

I have had a very small leak in the steering rack sense I put the car back together. I rebuilt the end links and boots but this popped up later. Just a single drip of PS fluid on the ground occasionally. It appears to be coming from the top of the assembly and my belief is it's coming from where the steering shaft joins the steering rack.

BUT, when I came home last night.....there was a POOL of fluid on the garage floor. So, whatever the issue was has gotten worse.

Steering has always felt fine, though I cant really compare to stock/low miles as.

I went ahead and ordered a seal that would replace the top seal where the shaft enters the rack. I've also purchased an oil dye kit so I can track down where the source is before I dive into pulling the entire rack.



Hoping it's just the top seal, one of the banjos, or the orings on the smaller lines. If it is a leak of the mating surfaces for the entire assembly, which is internal, I may have to look into a whole new rack.

[KnighTT]

Finally got my Quickjacks freed up. This will make work a lot easier moving forward with a lower car and plenty of future projects on that side of the bay.



Yeah.....so this turned out to be DCT fluid......not good.

[KnighTT]

Turns out one of the bolts holding the DCT oil pan wasn't torqued down any more and was enable to retighten. Threads must have pulled. It was a corner bolt so it caused a leak.

I'll admit I talked myself into a cheaper oil pan when I replaced it originally. Piece of plastic with a gasket was my thought process. Now that the car is going to be more track oriented, at least the gasket itself needs to be proper quality. Or time and heat will cause it to fail much sooner. This time around I'm getting an OE Getrag oil pan and gasket from FCP.

Managed to save about 3.5 liters of the DCTF fluid. Ordered 2 more liters for when the oil pan gets here to refil and replenish what was lost.

I'm also converting the bolts to studs and nuts. That way the DCT is more serviceable in the future without worrying about stripping out the threads in the aluminum DCT casing.

[KnighTT]

Next steps:


Since I've got the car back up, and I'm covered in fluids.....as well as my garage floor.

- Drain and fill rear diff with Redline 75w-90. I already have one quart and new fill plugs. I just needed to order another quart.
- I have decided to upgrade the DCTF to the Motul High-Torque DCTF fluid. This line is specifically made for higher torque DCT applications where the DCT has been tuned, racing, or heavy torque. As I am now pushing over 500ft/lb, I would say this is a good idea.

I found a reseller that was selling these for $108 for a 6 pack. That's $18 a quart which makes it a better deal than other DCTF options including the normal Motul multi-DCTF fluid.



I found a very small leak, partially baked in, coming off the front turbo. Appears to be most likely coming from the top oil feed line. Very minor but I'll add this to the to-do list. I suppose I could use a reason to pull the Turner hot side silicon inlets off the top side and inspect the turbos after 1,000 miles of break in after the build. It'll be good to look everything over.

[whyzee125]

Logs are looking MUCH better. How does it run on the V5? Looks great to me aside from a bit of a dip from your LPFP.

[KnighTT]

V5 felt good. I didn't get a lot of time to play around with it before I came home and found my DCT leak. I also think I may have lost a bit of the boost target with the vacuum line I had to crimp down.

Wedge has V6 lined up for me and I'll get the flashed on as soon as I'm done with my to-do list. Says he added some more on the top end and agrees the logs are looking good.

I was concerned too of the dip in the LPFP readings on the log but they didn't correlate to any sign of a drop in pressure in the HPFP rail pressure. So, looking at the LPFP pressure across the entire pull, I think it kept up an average pressure more along the lines 0f ~70psi. The entire pull, once the rail pressure concentrated on the higher demand, the rail pressure consistently gained pressure all the way to redline. If I was having an issue with the supply, it would have dropped off. At least that is my assumption.

[KnighTT]

DCT fill procedure is done with the new High-Torque DCTF fluid. I actually found these for less than the cost of the regular DCTF fluid but this line is specifically made for this use case.

BTW- Those $7 dual ended fluid transfer pumps from Harbor Freight made it incredibly easy. It only takes about 7-8 pumps to empty an entire quart.



This stuff made a noticeable difference. I usually feel like fluid changes give you a placebo affect but everything was so much smoother. When you are doing a harder pull, the shifts you could HEAR as normal but you no longer FELT the transition. Or at least it was noticeably diminished.

I also removed linear throttle. I had not had much of a chance to compare off/on but now I can feel it does try to pull harder than needed during normal driving off a stop. Might be better for track days but for normal street driving, when you are very light throttle, it picks up too hard and even oscillates if you feather it. Linear throttle doesn't really know what to do when you are 0-15% throttle.

On to the fun stuff. I flashed the new V6 map last night and took it out for a shakedown of the fluid changes and the new map.

I went out last night for break in. Not to really get logs but I was monitoring with MHD when a modified B58/DCT pulled up to a light next to me.

What happened next.....you can see in the logs. This log has two pulls. From a dig but picks up around 3rd gear and then a 4th gear roll.

https://datazap.me/u/knightt/long-pu...og=0&data=3-22

V6 targets 23.6PSI. I can now see in both logs, even over a long pull, I'm no longer concerned with my LPFP. The graph bounces, which I can see in most people's logs, but line average never drops. It looks to stay right around 70PSI average through the entire pull which is what is supposed to do. Maybe the investment in the PR fuel regulator is paying off.

I'll go out this weekend and get some 3rd gear log pulls but last night was a good sign.

When I got back home I no longer heard it but I am 90% sure I've got some valve lifter tick. I'll keep an ear out for it but I think this winter I'm going to drop in all new lifters. I had a mix of lifters from 3 N54s, and I cleaned up 24 and tested them all for hardness. But....they all had high mileage. Dropping in new lifters is an easy winter project. Should clean up any tick.

[KnighTT]

I've got the car stripped down and ready for paint correction. 3 stage and then a ceramic coat.

[KnighTT]

If you want to pull off your rain guards on the roof.....DON'T.

The clips that hold it in usually don't survive removal and they are $6-9 a piece and you need 12 of them. It costs more than $100 to replace the clips.

[KnighTT]

Alright, we'll start off with the good news from the weekend.

I spent the last 3 days at Mvading the Dragon. This is a BMW group event and there was about 100 cars in attendance this year.

https://www.mvadingthedragon.com/

3 days, 200-300 miles a day, of HARD driving through Tail of the Dragon, Cherohala Skyway, Moonshiner 28, and many more that were just about as hardcore and simultaneously beautiful as you can get in the country.

I ran the Dragon about 6 times. I wont get into the speeds but lets just say these groups went as flat out as your ability and vehicle allowed.

We'll get back to that but here are a couple quick photos. I'll be getting more shots of driving from Killboy.com when they are posted in a week as they shot the entire event.
















Pros:

- The car absolutely ripps! Power and spool was incredible and right where I wanted it. Balanced as you are pulling out of turns and into another. You need well balanced power to not throw you around. I felt like if I had any more I'd had wheel spin out of corners and spent too much time feathering the throttle.
- Suspension was incredible. ST XTA's performed better than I could imagine. Steady, solid, and never left me feeling like I was on the limit. Ripping through the corners, no matter how hard, and they felt on top of their game.
- Conti ExtremeContact DSW06 Plus I give a 12 out of 10. Even when it was wet they never broke loose once. They didn't even make noise. They took every turn and never scared me. Might be my go-to street and course tire from here on out.
- I love a 6speed but the DCT has sold me on ripping through these kind of extreme conditions and your hands never have to leave the steering wheel. That means the world in this kind of driving. Felt amazing, perfect shifts, and extreme control.

I built a car far more capable in practice than I expected. It didn't feel heavy. Extremely responsive and never felt lacking keeping up with Porsche 911 Turbos, V10 BMW's, all years of M3's, M2, M4. I never felt left in the dust by anything. Almost everyone was in enthusiast to track built cars or comp level M cars. I never felt lacking.

What a car. What a weekend. Time for more.


Now to the lessens learned and the issues.

[Torgus]

I love that hood. I may have to get one. Glad you had a good time!

[KnighTT]

CONS and next steps.

- 4 car accidents. M5 flew across a small field on a right turn and managed to stop just before the tree line. Wet grass slip and slide. Another M5 flew off a bank turn and went into a creek bed. Both of these guys were still running and driving when they got back on the road though. A Miata that got caught up in our group broke loose on the back end, drifted across an entire pull out parking lot, and smacked a curb. Broke both wheels. The last one was bad. I'll keep the details vague but a hot hatch that was invited with the group he was with took a hard left turn, front tire hit the damp soil on the shoulder, and he went sideways and flew off the road sliding downhill into several trees, flipped over upside down, and ended up 80ft down the side of the mountain. Really rocked the group. Happened maybe 100ft in front of me. The guy was OK. Car was 100% totaled.



- On day 2 I popped an over-boost code while burning through the Dragon, about half way through, and the car turned off the boost. What surprised me is how great the car still performed with no boost. It really held its own and I was shocked how much power the straight 6 has NA. Power cycled and the boost was back on.
- On day 1 I asked a Supra that was behind me if he had seen any smoke during the day. He said always. Under heavy accel and definitely a roll on decel. It was never enough for me to see it or really smell it but I'm not back there to see. Got the same feedback for the whole 3 days.
- Day three I hit the Dragon on my own and ran up and down. It was good but when I got done something was wrong. It didn't want to boost over 10PSI without feeling like I was getting a surging boost leak. Then I got some HPFP codes and half engine lights on normal acceleration. Ignition cutoff. I watched the rail pressure at it doesn't want to go over 900psi. When you try to give it more than 20% throttle the rail pressure (Live gauge) looks to try and drop to 500. LPFP seems to stay at 70PSI but this is live gauges not logs.

I can drive the car around in DRIVE and drive it like a Ford sedan but if I push in on it at all it pops HPFP codes and doesn't want to boost.

Next steps.

- I'm going to cruise around when I get the chance and pull some logs on just driving around and see what it's looking like. Maybe LPFP...maybe the new HPFP is faulty. I'll have to see.
- I am now part of the group that can say the DAW turbo's are not good quality. Anyone has that has followed my build knows they were run from day 1 on a full build, only on a custom tune, and put through all the proper steps. They survived the tuning process, have lightly smoked from the get-go, and then failed on one weekend of track use at 22psi and under. I've got oil built up around my tail pipes, smoke, and now they are now longer building proper pressure and there are clear issues. It is unfortunate but I think they are just as I feared. Some are OK, some are OK for street use and occasional spirited driving, and some are prone to quick failure due to not being quality checked and properly balanced after import. Anyone that has really dove into researching knows the truth about all of these imported turbos and there is no need for debate here.

I spoke with Rob over at RB Turbo for over an hour today and I am on the list for a new set of RB Game Finisher - High Flows. I want to go with the best twin setup for this platform and not waste any more time or money. I think the GF HiF setup is the culmination of the last decade of improvements without going to a single turbo. Rob has a meticulous hand crafted product and I want the right solution I can rely on for years to come. Hundreds of track days.

Looks like I'll have them by around Sept.

I considered a SpeedTech kit or a Docrace with a single but I do not want a single turbo for the way I drive and what my goals are. I would love to have a setup with a name brand turbo, like Garrett or Precision, for all the proper quality proven reasons, but I do not want all the complexities and variables added going from a twin motor and build to single. I'm not looking to build a 800hp drag car or drift. I want 500-600whp reliably, controllable, balanced, no-lag, low end power, twin setup. I don't want all my power at 6,500RPM, I want it right down the middle. I want to retain the full control through MHD with the stock system sensors and solenoids, and can use the wiggle room of this setup if I move up to port injection. My aim is 550 but this setup would allow me a lot of future room to move that up more if I ever had a real reason to. This setup checked all the boxes for me and gives me future abilities.

After speaking with Rob, the GF HiF will be exactly what I need and want. Plenty of room for power above my goals so they won't be breaking a sweat. High air flow through the much larger hot side design. Hand built. Well respected.

It's not about cost. If the right solution was $5000, I'd had ordered it. I want to put these in, dial them to my needs, and they meet expectations. Period.

I got my DAW's for $1350 on Back Friday in 2019. They have less than 3k miles on them. They were basically, at the time, a better and cheaper option than replacing with stock turbos and my plans back then were very different. Now I have a fully built car pushing into track work and the only reason the DAW are on there, knowing all the feedback over the last 3 years, as they sat on a shelf waiting for install, was just to see if they were OK or not. In the scheme of things, $1,400 in the trash is better than other things I have invested in.

I need to get the car running without codes for a bit so I can go do emissions and get my sticker for the next year. Then I'll pop it up on stands and pull the turbos to look everything over. I don't want to get it back on the road in Sept and its on expired plates while I try to tune and then go hope it passes while I creep around in the dark.

[whyzee125]

This was exciting to read and def 4 steps forward compared to the last updates! Also wow, glad that guy in the hatch was ok.

Great choice on the RB's, can't wait to see more of this beast

[NoGuru]

Originally Posted by Torgus

I love that hood. I may have to get one. Glad you had a good time!

Same thing I think every time I see it.

[KnighTT]

[KKevin]

Action shots look great!

[Torgus]

Awesome shots!

[KnighTT]

So, some thoughts on upgrades for next years event.

- Cooling
Coolant stayed at 203-206. MHD on "sport". I was seriously impressed the car never got above 206 and we were driving HARD for 10-20-30 minute stretches. I have the stock style CSF. I'll upgrade this eventually but right now it's good.

Oil temps were 230-240 under full load and heat soak. Only once did I get up to 245. From what I hear this is really good for hard driving but I think a larger oil cooler would be a nice addition over the next year.
DCT temps stayed under 200. I'll probably get a larger cooler for the DCT over the next couple years. It's not a big expense.

- Seats
- I'm looking at moving over to a pair of FIA rated Momo seats. This is an all around good upgrade for the future of the car and events like this. I was oddly surprised how the stock seats, with the bolsters on max, actually kept me planted in the corners but I could tell I was also "assisting" with keeping my body in place. After a hard day of driving you want to keep everything as relaxed as possible. My arms and entire upper body were wrecked after 318 turns, over and over.

- Rear end
I could feel the back end wiggle a bit. Very minor but I could feel a bit of flex occasionally so this would be a good reason to move to poly in the rear and stiffen up the subframe and arms.

- Suspension
10 out of 10. I have no complains on the ST XTA at all. They ripped through hard turns, hairpins, crests. Never broke loose. Never hit the bump stops. Heck, never even felt body roll. At they were on setting 5 of 20. I could have easily stiffened things up but I liked how they were performing.

In the long run maybe some spec'd Swift springs but I think the ST XTA's were a solid great purchase for street and track.

-XHP tune on the DCT for sure.
-RB GF HiFlows on the way. Probably September.

Truth is, I think I'm going to stick with 93oct tunes. I have an E85 source a few miles from my house but when you travel for events E85 is rare. For this event there was zero access to E85 for 200 miles so I'd like to emphasize the main tune supporting what is most available. A secondary tune for E50 would be nice for Atlanta events and track days where it is available. MHD makes that more easy nowadays.

[KnighTT]

OK - Need Help.

Turbo issues aside, I have a huge fueling issue and now have logs.

This is under normal driving. Performance upgrades aside, there is a huge issue with the HPFP. I need to see if it just died within 1000 miles of its life or if it is something else.

https://datazap.me/u/knightt/fueling...og=0&data=3-22

There are two logs there. If you look at 32_58, the second log, you can see rather quickly when the rail pressure and the HPFP falls on its face.

This was just 20-30% throttle position. When I gave it 20%-30% sustained, to get up to speed, is when it just dies off to 400PSI and then the system failed, limp mode, bunch of codes. Turn engine off and back on again clears things but this issue happens every time I give it 20-30% throttle or more.
Codes –
29F2 – HPFP, pressure
29F3 – LPFP sensor, electric. This one has been there since I replaced the LPFP sensor with he newer design but doesn’t seem to affect anything? The sensor seems to work just fine but this code is there most of the time.
Shadow codes due to limp mode – 2AAF, 2FCA, 2FDA.

You can just put it in drive and be gentle with it and it feels fine. It'll drive on the highway at any speed. Got me all the way back from Tennessee.
So, the question is is the new HPFP already bad or is there another issue that can be seen in the logs? I can’t smell any fuel so I don’t think it has anything to do with a leak. The LPFP seems to maintain a high pressure. Doesn’t drop off.
This started after 3 hard days up in the Tail of the Dragon so the HPFP and the entire system was under heavy loads off and on.
Maybe start with a HPFP exchange and go from there?

[KnighTT]

Ouch! The Walbro 535 went from $129 at Summit up to $197.

I went ahead and ordered one just to rule that out. I was having some odd issues a few months ago I thought may be the new LPFP related but the PR V2 pressure regulator seemed to have cleared that up after install.

Calling FCP today to work on the HPFP replacement.

[KnighTT]

Got this direct from Summit Racing.

If this ends up being the solution to my issue my wonder is if Precision got a fake batch of Walbro 535's. I know that is becoming a huge issue and finding real performance parts that are highly desired becomes an issue without going direct. It takes about 15 seconds to pull up multiple listings of fake Walbro pumps that are made to look 100% legit.

I'll pop both top hats off tonight/tomorrow and inspect everything, swap out the new pump, and then clear adaptations and test this weekend.

[KnighTT]

I installed the new LPFP tonight. Walbro 535 direct from Summit.

Did NOT fix the issue.

I then swapped out the other EKMP3 module from my other E92, to see if that was it, and that did nothing to improve the situation either.

Logs:
https://datazap.me/u/knightt/fueling...og=0&data=3-22
First log is new pump and original EKMP3.
Second log is after EKMP3 swap.

I'm not sure why the logs always show the LPFP pressure jumping around like that. It has been that way from stock, the Walbro 535, new PR FPR V2, new HPFP, new LPFP sensor. It just always jumps around. I mean by now nothing is left stock on the fuel system at all.

So, I'm back to thinking the new HPFP is bad.