[DR-JEKL]

On another note decided to splurge and buy a Dinan CAI and RB inlets...

Always loved the look and design of the dinan CAI kit!

http://www.dinancars.com/product/d76...7-2008-only-2/



It has a panel filter and also a pod inside the front guard liner for a true CAI



As for the inlets I think they offer great BFYB!



The TFT's are a damn nice setup, just can't justify the cost unfortunately

[Socket]

The airbox looks very neat
But jebus the price lol

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by Socket

The airbox looks very neat

I'm not big on underbonnet bling, but I've always loved that it looks oem so the rozzers shouldnt give you any issues v's two pods!

Also it is a true CAI so should be good at keeping IAT's lower in the warmer months. Also the box has a snorkel which goes down inside the fron fender liner, the snorkel shall go up over my BOV and essentially hide that

All this will be useless on a ST setup, so hmm may have to stay with a stock frame turbo upgrade in future

[Socket]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

I'm not big on underbonnet bling, but I've always loved that it looks oem so the rozzers shouldnt give you any issues v's two pods!

Also it is a true CAI so should be good at keeping IAT's lower in the warmer months. Also the box has a snorkel which goes down inside the fron fender liner, the snorkel shall go up over my BOV and essentially hide that

All this will be useless on a ST setup, so hmm may have to stay with a stock frame turbo upgrade in future

ST setup?

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by Socket

ST setup?

ST= single turbo

[Socket]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

ST= single turbo ]

Oh I can see why that would be a problem lol

[iliketurtl3s]

Dr j, I just came. Ur box hnngggggg

[vtl]

Get an M3 cowl to finish that bling off:



I've got my M3 cowl on order from FCP, should arrive next week

Its got extra air vents because race car

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by iliketurtl3s

Dr j, I just came. Ur box hnngggggg

Yeah may come in handy at a car show that's about it haha

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by vtl

Get an M3 cowl to finish that bling off:



I've got my M3 cowl on order from FCP, should arrive next week

Its got extra air vents because race car

Nice man, yeah they look trick I was going to get one along with Ian and Tony but yeah kept getting stuffed around with supplier not returning emails

Should be $100 at most on a wrecked m3 tho, did you get bits from that wrecker in Sydney?

[ATTN]

why rb inlets and not vtt? could of jumped on our gb

[vtl]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

Nice man, yeah they look trick I was going to get one along with Ian and Tony but yeah kept getting stuffed around with supplier not returning emails

Should be $100 at most on a wrecked m3 tho, did you get bits from that wrecker in Sydney?

Nah didn't want to deal with them again. Ended up buying the upper covers used from a wrecker on ebay and the rest I got brand new from FCP. Cost me around $200 for all the plastics although ill need to get some cabin filters too. Searched high and low and could never get the parts for cheaper.

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by ATTN

why rb inlets and not vtt? could of jumped on our gb

No real reason I was going to wait and see what the results were between RB VTT & TFT inlets.

TFT's are awesome but if you have to ask how much they are, you cant afford them type of price unfortunately.

Ultimately I would like the TFT's, as hardpipes sound better and also shall prove to be more durable in their long term.

With the VTT all the issues regarding fitment in the past turned me off, and whenever someone posted up asking for help due to fitment issues Tony acted like an asshat and basically wouldn't help the guys out and responded like an immature twat saying I've sold 20+ setups with not one issue you must be doing it wrong. I just dont like the bloke, instead of asking the customer for some pictures and pointing out where he went wrong he takes everything as an attack on his ego/products whereas Rob seems quite helpful and willing to answers questions etc

I also like Robs approach in terms of design, he's clearly spent more time designing the inlets to fit, whereas its of my opinion VTT has just made them as big as possible for flow & ultimately power.

I'm happy to lose a few potential kw's for clearance and not having hoses blow loose in future due to clearance/rubbing issues etc

I got in on Rob's GB the inlets were 375 usd delivered.

But on the hotside chargepipe I much prefer the look of the VTT silicon pipes vs RB's hybrid silicon joiners and oem pipes...

Time will tell eventually when we start comparing these inlets on the dyno

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by vtl

Nah didn't want to deal with them again. Ended up buying the upper covers used from a wrecker on ebay and the rest I got brand new from FCP. Cost me around $200 for all the plastics although ill need to get some cabin filters too. Searched high and low and could never get the parts for cheaper.

Ahh fair enough, I may investigate it in future

[DR-JEKL]

Quite a while ago I had fitted a used M3 cluster from a 6MT M3.

Unfortunately it caused a cruise control malfunction error and the oil level dipstick to not read, along with the tamperage dot. This all leads back to the vin stored in the cluster not marrying up with the vin from my car stored in the DME...

http://vid13.photobucket.com/albums/...pscb4d163b.mp4

The only option was to send o/s and this was expensive (something like $500+) so I boxed it up and was hoping for someone locally to devise a solution.

You may have seen vtl selling his cluster recently and he has figured it out by rewriting the vin number on the chipset and some 'basic' coding to enable the ///M clusters to be retrofitted into the 335i

This was how he explained the process:

These were the steps we had to do:

- Disassemble the cluster
- Remove the dials
- Desolder the eeprom
- Program the eeprom with last 7 digits of Phil's VIN
- Do the coding via NCSExpert
- Recalibrate the dials using INPA
- Test the cluster with INPA and on test drive

Went through all the functions and everything seems to work without errors. All dials look accurate, cruise control works fine, no pesky tamper dot.

When you send me your cluster I will remove the dials and program your VIN number to the cluster. Unfortunately I cannot calibrate the dials without it fitted to your vehicle first.

The dials are calibrated by plugging in the cluster without the front plastic cover, then use the INPA software to set the dials to known positions, then plugging in the dials.

Here are pictures of the process:

Using a trim tool and business cards to avoid scratching the dial faces:



Dials removed



Top side with the gauges removed




IC before removal



Hot air station removal with kapton tape heat shielding the LCD plastics



Removed eeprom and placed into zif socket adapter. Programmed VIN number



Soldered chip back in with soldering station



Currently I havent had time to fit the cluster but hopefully in the next week or so!

I've been keeping a log of my financials on the build, whilst the subtotal is not 100% what I've spent (for example I sold my 313M's to pay for the 359M's etc) but yeah the car has swallowed up some $ in 3 years




The expensive items turbos bodykit and clutch are still to come!!!!

[DR-JEKL]

Last Friday I collected the car from advan after 5 weeks of being in the workshop to have the m3 driveline installed, along with the M3 brakes/hubs and BC coilovers.

It was a rather long day as I started work at 6am knocked off at 1pm and drove down to advan in the Friday afternoon traffic. I had a work colleague with me and I let him drive the 335i home as a favour for coming down with me to collect the car. Because the spraypainter had stuffed me around the 359M rims were still not ready (he had to rectify the rims due to clearcoat runs) Advan had the car sitting on some loan rims (those gloss black 220M M3 rims and tyres) fortunately I manage to hold onto the 313M rims I had sold as the buyer is a FIFO worker!

So we left advan around 5pm in the peak hr traffic and took us an hour or so to hit the freeway..

As soon as we got on the freeway my mate called to say he has a funny noise and an error message. We pull over as there was an error message on the idrive (flat tyre warning) got the old bmw mobility kit out all tyre pressures were ok, checked the idrive warning message and it stated something about the error message could be associated to a recent wheel change... So cleared that and we got on our way. Got another call from my mate saying there's a vibration noise. We continued on and got home around 8:30.

When we got home I drove the car and at suburban speeds its fine no noisy diff, no whine no vibrations then at 70-80km/h on a perfectly smooth road you can feel a slight vibration and definitely hear it (low bass thrumming noise- like I'm driving on a ripple strip).

If I could guess it seems to be coming from the rear of the car (no steering wheel shake) and under braking the brakes feel fine.

I tested it at low speeds turning left and right and there was no abnormal noise from the diff, and also whilst coasting feathering the throttle on/off the vibration was constant which I believe eliminates the noise coming from the diff.

I was discussing this with vtl and he had dug out some interesting info in regards to his M3 diff install:

He said during his research he has found that the factory balance the diff, and correct it to within spec by drilling two holes in the diff input flange and the factory operator marks the diff flange. This coloured marking then indicates that a special coloured counterbalance bolt is to be used:

blue texta marking on the diff flange:



balancing correction by material removal from point of imbalance (Drilling)



Coloured markings require specific counterbalance bolts to be inserted into the mark holes on the diff flange (item #13):



http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=26_0202

Unfortunately I havent spent any further time diagnosing this issue I've been flat out this week!

I drove the car for 40 mins last Saturday and the I’m extremely happy with how the suspension loads up through corners and it transmits the power a hell of a lot better also coming out of a corner with minimal wheel spin.

Prior to the M3 driveline install stepping on it in third gear the rear would get tail happy even at 100km/h + whereas now it just grips and doesn’t even barely get a flicker on the dash from DSC!

The BC’s feel a tad fussy at low speed (I haven’t checked damper settings yet) and I’m really happy with the damper control under rebound just the compression dampening needs some fine tuning. Since I have M3 coilovers (I have the M3 hubs) the spring rates are a tad firmer than the 335i items I believe they're 7kg/mm F & 14Kg/mm R

The 359M rims should be ready on Monday (after 5 weeks of waiting!!) with a total of 4 coats of paint. I'll let the paint harden for most of the week sitting the rims out in the sun and then have the Nitto NT05 tyres mounted up. I'm really hoping the 275/30 rear tyres clear the rear guards as these should provide phenomenal grip and look tough as!

[DR-JEKL]

Just decided to check the damper settings on the BC's as generally with most coilover the default setting is normally close to full hard. They were 8 clicks from full hard (30 way adjustment) so I backed them off to 15 clicks.

I'll hopefully get some spare time tomorrow to take the car for a drive and experiment with the damper settings further to get it dialled in how I like it.

On my last car my teins were set at 14F 16R by memory, this provided a good comprimise of ride comfort and handling, but I shall experiment with this further and possibly back them off to 20 clicks from full hard for comfort

[Socket]

Congrats DrJ is good to see the car back home and the suspension performing beautifully. Hope the wheels are finished soon and back on the car where they belong... Mod list rocks, there's been some serious cash dropped on your ride over the years, but worth every cent IMO

[bmwheath]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

No real reason I was going to wait and see what the results were between RB VTT & TFT inlets.

TFT's are awesome but if you have to ask how much they are, you cant afford them type of price unfortunately.

Ultimately I would like the TFT's, as hardpipes sound better and also shall prove to be more durable in their long term.

With the VTT all the issues regarding fitment in the past turned me off, and whenever someone posted up asking for help due to fitment issues Tony acted like an asshat and basically wouldn't help the guys out and responded like an immature twat saying I've sold 20+ setups with not one issue you must be doing it wrong. I just dont like the bloke, instead of asking the customer for some pictures and pointing out where he went wrong he takes everything as an attack on his ego/products whereas Rob seems quite helpful and willing to answers questions etc

I also like Robs approach in terms of design, he's clearly spent more time designing the inlets to fit, whereas its of my opinion VTT has just made them as big as possible for flow & ultimately power.

I'm happy to lose a few potential kw's for clearance and not having hoses blow loose in future due to clearance/rubbing issues etc

I got in on Rob's GB the inlets were 375 usd delivered.

But on the hotside chargepipe I much prefer the look of the VTT silicon pipes vs RB's hybrid silicon joiners and oem pipes...

Time will tell eventually when we start comparing these inlets on the dyno

+1

[_ink]

Can't believe you let your mate drive it home after it was newly installed mate. Lol, thought you'd want to drive it initially to make sure all sounds, expectations etc were in check.

Interesting find and digging on the diff balancing Shane, hope you figure that one out!

vtl I performed a gauge face and led swap, and after this, my cruise control isn't functional anymore, is this a symptom that INPA will help with?

[Socket]

Originally Posted by _ink

Can't believe you let your mate drive it home after it was newly installed mate. Lol, thought you'd want to drive it initially to make sure all sounds, expectations etc were in check.

Interesting find and digging on the diff balancing Shane, hope you figure that one out!

vtl I performed a gauge face and led swap, and after this, my cruise control isn't functional anymore, is this a symptom that INPA will help with?

If it helps Ink, my cruise control is working fine following the gauge swap, Vtl did, so maybe

[vtl]

Originally Posted by _ink

Can't believe you let your mate drive it home after it was newly installed mate. Lol, thought you'd want to drive it initially to make sure all sounds, expectations etc were in check.

Interesting find and digging on the diff balancing Shane, hope you figure that one out!

vtl I performed a gauge face and led swap, and after this, my cruise control isn't functional anymore, is this a symptom that INPA will help with?

Could be a bunch of stuff,

Do you get 'cruise control failure' error message when starting the car? Or when trying to engage cruise? Or pressing the stalk just does nothing?

You'd need to read the error codes from the DSC, the DME and KOMBI units with INPA to diagnose it. All three units must be working correctly for cruise to work and I think it may require reflashing them with WinKFP to fix these kinds of issues (not 100% sure it would fix it, I tried reflashing a DSC module and it didn't fix a similar cruise issue).

I believe its possible to bork cruise control very easily in these cars when swapping units and playing with the coding (software related glitch).