[Chris E93 335i]

lol, so let me emphasize on the fast relative to comment.

i was running a JB4 map 1, but the car was experiencing misfires, i sold the JB4
got a Cobb v3 and a new set of NGK iridium, the COB runs smooth but dose not feel as fast as the JB4 even with occasional misfires.

[Chris E93 335i]

I haven't yet to race a fish, stay tuned will let you know when i do.

[ashmostro]

Originally Posted by Chris E93 335i

lol, so let me emphasize on the fast relative to comment.

i was running a JB4 map 1, but the car was experiencing misfires, i sold the JB4
got a Cobb v3 and a new set of NGK iridium, the COB runs smooth but dose not feel as fast as the JB4 even with occasional misfires.

As mentioned, Stage 1 isn't a very powerful map, intentionally. If you want to reliably (remember those misfires?) run a more aggressive map you should consider a larger FMIC, intake, and downpipes.

[ashmostro]

Originally Posted by Chris E93 335i

I haven't yet to race a fish, stay tuned will let you know when i do.

I want a kill vid

[fast135i91]

I just bought a Cobb AP v2 used. It had preloaded maps from the last user. I was looking at the Cobb website and noticed there were several different ECU ID types. The problem with the preloaded maps, every time I flash the sport or drive map, (I can't use aggresive map due to shitty california gas), it misfires on cylinder 6 every time. Could this be due to the wrong ECU ID? How can I tell which ECU ID to upload to my car?

Other info. 2009 135i manufactured in 09/2008. 6-speed manual trans. Only other mod is a Stett Cold air intake. On stock map, it pulls hard. With drive or sport map, it misfires and bogs only at 75% or more throttle, but then runs smooth after 2 minutes of normal driving conditions. Check engine light goes on temporarily, then turns off once it stops misfiring for two minutes.

[ashmostro]

Uninstall the Cobb, update the Cobb through the Internet/computer, reinstall the Cobb.

[fast135i91]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

Uninstall the Cobb, update the Cobb through the Internet/computer, reinstall the Cobb.

The user I bought it from supposedly already updated the maps. v401 is loaded onto the AP. And the AccessPort Manager doesn't like my laptop, I get an error everytime I try to install it.

[deeLow]

Originally Posted by fast135i91

I just bought a Cobb AP v2 used. It had preloaded maps from the last user. I was looking at the Cobb website and noticed there were several different ECU ID types. The problem with the preloaded maps, every time I flash the sport or drive map, (I can't use aggresive map due to shitty california gas), it misfires on cylinder 6 every time. Could this be due to the wrong ECU ID? How can I tell which ECU ID to upload to my car?

Other info. 2009 135i manufactured in 09/2008. 6-speed manual trans. Only other mod is a Stett Cold air intake. On stock map, it pulls hard. With drive or sport map, it misfires and bogs only at 75% or more throttle, but then runs smooth after 2 minutes of normal driving conditions. Check engine light goes on temporarily, then turns off once it stops misfiring for two minutes.

You ever stop to think it needs plugs/coils....

Originally Posted by deeLow

You ever stop to think it needs plugs/coils....

??

But, if he did that first, then he'd have nothing to post about

[deepocean]

guys please advice

1. http://www.datazap.me/u/deepocean/new-map?log=0&data=12
2. http://www.datazap.me/u/deepocean/ne...?log=0&data=12

pls advic

[techwhiz]

Originally Posted by fast135i91

I just bought a Cobb AP v2 used. It had preloaded maps from the last user. I was looking at the Cobb website and noticed there were several different ECU ID types. The problem with the preloaded maps, every time I flash the sport or drive map, (I can't use aggresive map due to shitty california gas), it misfires on cylinder 6 every time. Could this be due to the wrong ECU ID? How can I tell which ECU ID to upload to my car?

Other info. 2009 135i manufactured in 09/2008. 6-speed manual trans. Only other mod is a Stett Cold air intake. On stock map, it pulls hard. With drive or sport map, it misfires and bogs only at 75% or more throttle, but then runs smooth after 2 minutes of normal driving conditions. Check engine light goes on temporarily, then turns off once it stops misfiring for two minutes.

Probably due to bad plugs. I run Stage 1 aggressive on Costco and 76 an never have an issue.

[cbad335]

Plug the unit into the car's OBD port. Navigate to AccessPORT screen > About >Vehicle to get ECU ID type.

On ACN91 gas (i.e., AZ, CA, NV "premium"), I can't even run stage 1 sport without the ECU pulling timing. (I have FMI, Dinan CAI, and PE.) Before purchasing a pro tune, I just used the drive map.

Originally Posted by fast135i91

I just bought a Cobb AP v2 used. It had preloaded maps from the last user. I was looking at the Cobb website and noticed there were several different ECU ID types. The problem with the preloaded maps, every time I flash the sport or drive map, (I can't use aggresive map due to shitty california gas), it misfires on cylinder 6 every time. Could this be due to the wrong ECU ID? How can I tell which ECU ID to upload to my car?

Other info. 2009 135i manufactured in 09/2008. 6-speed manual trans. Only other mod is a Stett Cold air intake. On stock map, it pulls hard. With drive or sport map, it misfires and bogs only at 75% or more throttle, but then runs smooth after 2 minutes of normal driving conditions. Check engine light goes on temporarily, then turns off once it stops misfiring for two minutes.

[bm6w]

Quick question about Stage 2 Aggressive + FMIC....

I am FBO and recently went from Stage 2 sport, to stage 2 aggressive + FMIC. Holy F the car is insane. I have yet to floor it but today I hit 19.9 psi.

What PSI are you guys hitting with this tune? I'm afraid to floor it...... My car has 87k on the clock and 45k on the turbos. I daily the car and don't want to break anything. Am I pushing it with putting this much stress on the turbos?

[kctim]

Originally Posted by bm6w

Quick question about Stage 2 Aggressive + FMIC....

I am FBO and recently went from Stage 2 sport, to stage 2 aggressive + FMIC. Holy F the car is insane. I have yet to floor it but today I hit 19.9 psi.

What PSI are you guys hitting with this tune? I'm afraid to floor it...... My car has 87k on the clock and 45k on the turbos. I daily the car and don't want to break anything. Am I pushing it with putting this much stress on the turbos?

19.9 is high, that map targets closer to low 18s iirc. Do you have a log? My car ran better on the 2+sport maps but if you have access to ethanol the cobb e30 are the best of the ots maps imo, not just for power but for overall driveability. If you're concerned about the health of the car, keep up with your maintenance and perhaps even get a etune. The etune will put a shit eating grin on your face 2x more than when you went to the 2+ maps, and will be safer for your car in many regards.

[bm6w]

interesting

[jrg64]

Stage 1 aggressive vs stage 2 sport does anyone know what the difference is? I've got an 07 335i with K&N filter and the BMW sport exhaust, the car has around 54k miles. The stage 1 seems like a nice bump but nothing earth shattering, with my setup can i run stage 2 sport without breaking things?

[Sgop335]

Originally Posted by jrg64

Stage 1 aggressive vs stage 2 sport does anyone know what the difference is? I've got an 07 335i with K&N filter and the BMW sport exhaust, the car has around 54k miles. The stage 1 seems like a nice bump but nothing earth shattering, with my setup can i run stage 2 sport without breaking things?

Difference is the downpipe.

The stage 2 sport requires the downpipe upgrade. So wouldnt do that.

What stage 1 are you running and what boost are you measuring?

[jrg64]

stage 1 aggressive on v3, the highest value at wot is 14.2.

[FL335]

The DPs don't give much Hp..the big deal is the upgraded FMIC. The jump in power using the FMIC+ map is significant. THEN get a pro tune...it's night and day. 400whp with just these mods and a good pro tune.

[Flex68]

hey guys looking at buying a second hand cobb accessport v2 from the states . I live in australia, so what things do i need to do to get this working right in my australian delivered vehicle???? model number ap-bmw-001 v2b updated windows 8/8.1

[LGCubana]

Here's a link to the detailed breakdown of the stages and the boost targets:COBB N55 Stages, N54

Originally Posted by jrg64

Stage 1 aggressive vs stage 2 sport does anyone know what the difference is? I've got an 07 335i with K&N filter and the BMW sport exhaust, the car has around 54k miles. The stage 1 seems like a nice bump but nothing earth shattering, with my setup can i run stage 2 sport without breaking things?

[jrg64]

perfect thank you