[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by nikosaur

Apologies if this has already been covered in this thread but a search didn't seem to bring it up. What are your thoughts on using a drying blade?

I personally don't like the risk associated with it. If the paint is 100% clean and the plastic blade is new and clean, there SHOULD be no issues. However, any dust settling on the paint and in the water of the just washed car, or anything on the actual blade, can easily cause light marring. In some cases, if a bigger particle gets stuck under there you can end up with a pretty noticeable scratch.

I prefer to speed up the drying process using the Metro Sidekick Blower, then picking up the remaining water quickly and easily with a Waffle Weave Drying Towel. This way I minimize the chance for creating some issues with the paint and still save lots of time compared to drying with only the towel.

In short though, you can surely use the blade and use it safely, plus on some paints that are more resistant to swirl marks you may get away with dragging some light dust on the paint. I simply hate the idea of taking that chance only to save the 10-15 minutes drying.

Originally Posted by esum

hi hi,

with winter almost coming to an END.. I was wondering what kind of products or methods can I use to remove Salt stain on the carpets?

I've tried salt eraser from the local part store and it doesn't do that well of a job.. it takes out like 40% of it, but still alot remains..

Thanks

I have had luck using 303 Cleaner & Spot Remover or Optimum Power Clean with a good carpet brush, but sometimes if the salt has been there a while it may need a professional's touch. A good cleaner, brush, steam cleaning and extracting may all be required even for a tiny salt stain if it's being stubborn and been there for a while. I'm not sure what you can pick up at a local store to try to remove more of it, but I would imagine starting with a better cleaner (maybe consult with the local carpet/flooring store rather than auto store) and a good brush.

Originally Posted by adriang

I've got some clay from a general hardware store, can that be used for claying a car?

Do car clay bars have something specific in them as to why they are "car" clay bars?

The short answer is, probably. Many enthusiasts and professionals have tried this over the years and the end results is always the same... modeling clay, or clay like it, can surely remove some contamination. However, it's a pain to work with, it breaks off and leaves clay residue all over, becomes very sticky very quickly and is normally a one time use. Automotive clay is synthetic and designed at various levels of abrasiveness (fine, medium, etc.) in order to remove everything from light tar and rail dust to heavier overspray, etc. Normally you can get good durability from a block of clay by simply using it properly and cleaning/brushing it a bit after the job.

Again though, if you use clay to decontaminate your car once a year and wish to spend only $3-5 instead of $20, you can surely at your own discretion go for it if it provides the results you're looking for and doesn't damage the paint.

[adriang]

Thanks for your responses everyone, I tried the general hardware store clay that I had and it worked amazingly. I made sure to lubricate the surface fairly well with soap and water and didn't cause any scratches!

The below pictures are after a long winter, washed, clayed, scratch fixed, sealed and about 3.5 hours time

If anyone is interested, I sanded the muck off the inside of the exahust tips with 600grit and water while wiping off excess dirt with a cloth. Then used an automotive chrome polish to make them shine

(Mind the dust on the bumpers they fell of the roof of the garage while the car was parked inside)

[mbanks21]

Any thoughts on this setup for light to medium paint correction (these are all products I already own):
Wash and clay of course
Meguiar's #2 (7/10 on the aggressive scale) with LC Orange
Meguiar's #205 with LC White
Klasse AIO (needed?)
Klasse Sealant
Meguiar's #26 Carnuba Wax

[SLOWER]

Just want to say you guys are awesome. Ordered Thursday night, stuff on my door step Saturday morning. Thank you!

[mo2566]

Any advice on getting this exhaust tip stain out or is it permanent? 90k miles 335i, this is the passenger side. The drivers isn't quite as bad but has some of the same markings. I have tried various cleaners, a metal polish, and some wire brushes. Thank you!

[SHEEDI]

Originally Posted by mo2566

Any advice on getting this exhaust tip stain out or is it permanent? 90k miles 335i, this is the passenger side. The drivers isn't quite as bad but has some of the same markings. I have tried various cleaners, a metal polish, and some wire brushes. Thank you!
Attachment 1031533

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=246663

http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...tip-detailing/

[mo2566]

Originally Posted by SHEEDI

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=246663

http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...tip-detailing/

Thank you for your links, and yes I searched MANY times which is how I came up with all the different methods I tried already. I am hoping for the Pro's at detailedimage to chime in their thoughts before I keep trying different methods from searches that may or may not work. They have helped me with advice on other forums in the past and I have bought lots of product from them so I respect their experience.

[SHEEDI]

Originally Posted by mo2566

Thank you for your links, and yes I searched MANY times which is how I came up with all the different methods I tried already. I am hoping for the Pro's at detailedimage to chime in their thoughts before I keep trying different methods from searches that may or may not work. They have helped me with advice on other forums in the past and I have bought lots of product from them so I respect their experience.

I wanted to add one more thing, once you got them clean, get them protected by Carpro CQUARTZ, look into their products., here is my car's pic, look at the exhaust

[mo2566]

Originally Posted by SHEEDI

I wanted to add one more thing, once you got them clean, get them protected by Carpro CQUARTZ, look into their products., here is my car's pic, look at the exhaust

Yeah, those look awesome. I am hoping I can get them back to close to that condition then I'll have no problem maintaining them. That Cquartz looks like good stuff

[E92inNC]

Hi Ivan,

Just wanted to get your thoughts if I'm using the correct set up.

PC7424 w/Dual Action 5 in hook & loop backing plate
MXT Polishing Foam Pad Cleaner
MXT Polishing Foam Pad Conditioner
CCS Orange 5.5 Cutting Pad w/Chemical Guys V36
CCS White 5.5 Cutting Pad w/Chemical Guys V38
CCS Gray w/Klasse SG

Thanks

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by mbanks21

Any thoughts on this setup for light to medium paint correction (these are all products I already own):
Wash and clay of course
Meguiar's #2 (7/10 on the aggressive scale) with LC Orange
Meguiar's #205 with LC White
Klasse AIO (needed?)
Klasse Sealant
Meguiar's #26 Carnuba Wax

That sounds like a good lineup. I haven't used #2 in a LONG time, but from what I remember it's a pretty decent compound/cutting polish. How well the pad/polish combos perform will depend on your paint, but you should be ok with those. KAIO is a good base for KSG the sealant, so yes I would say go ahead and do a quick pass with it using something mild, like a Blue Lake Country pad. All in all it sounds like a good plan you have lined up.

Originally Posted by SLOWER

Just want to say you guys are awesome. Ordered Thursday night, stuff on my door step Saturday morning. Thank you!

Thank you!

Originally Posted by mo2566

Any advice on getting this exhaust tip stain out or is it permanent? 90k miles 335i, this is the passenger side. The drivers isn't quite as bad but has some of the same markings. I have tried various cleaners, a metal polish, and some wire brushes. Thank you!
Attachment 1031533

I normally have good luck with steel wool and Mother's or Meguiar's metal polishes, but that does look pretty bad. I can't say I've tried every product out there so I'm not sure if there's a magical solution for it, but I'd try some other things then possibly consult with a local detailer or performance shop to see what they recommend. Wish I could be of more help, but it gets hard recommending stuff over the internet and just looking at pics .

Let us know if you find a good solution and as sheedi said, definitely protect the tips regularly once they're fixed or refinished.

Originally Posted by sxyblue

Hi Ivan,

Just wanted to get your thoughts if I'm using the correct set up.

PC7424 w/Dual Action 5 in hook & loop backing plate
MXT Polishing Foam Pad Cleaner
MXT Polishing Foam Pad Conditioner
CCS Orange 5.5 Cutting Pad w/Chemical Guys V36
CCS White 5.5 Cutting Pad w/Chemical Guys V38
CCS Gray w/Klasse SG

Thanks

It sounds like the right combination but I've never tried the two Chemical Guy's polishes or the pad cleaner and conditioner, so can't really comment on those. I like to apply Klasse SG by hand, but by machine should be fine as well.

Ivan @ DI

[railesq]

Should I have asked before buying? Perhaps, but I think it'll work out.

So I have, on hand, Orange and Black (3x each) pads with a PC 7424XP. I've used them with Klasse AIO and Klasse SG previously, which I also have on hand. I've been happy with the results (and likely will like them more when I shift them down pad levels, AIO on black and SG on white).

However, I'm taking on a much harder job coming up - 240k miles of Midwestern driving abuse. My plan is this:

Wash (with Dawn, to get every last bit of crap product from car washes off)
Clay bar - Meguires or DI clay, whichever is closer to my hand that day
Menzerna FG400 with LC Orange
Menzerna SG4000 with LC Black
Klasse AIO with LC Black
Klasse SG with LC White

This'll be a difficult job, as the paint hasn't been touched by someone who knows what they're doing in 10 years. Am I missing anything? I know I should be starting with the least abrasive first, and normally I'd be nervous, but this car definitely needs something with good cut.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by railesq

Should I have asked before buying? Perhaps, but I think it'll work out.

So I have, on hand, Orange and Black (3x each) pads with a PC 7424XP. I've used them with Klasse AIO and Klasse SG previously, which I also have on hand. I've been happy with the results (and likely will like them more when I shift them down pad levels, AIO on black and SG on white).

However, I'm taking on a much harder job coming up - 240k miles of Midwestern driving abuse. My plan is this:

Wash (with Dawn, to get every last bit of crap product from car washes off)
Clay bar - Meguires or DI clay, whichever is closer to my hand that day
Menzerna FG400 with LC Orange
Menzerna SG4000 with LC Black
Klasse AIO with LC Black
Klasse SG with LC White

This'll be a difficult job, as the paint hasn't been touched by someone who knows what they're doing in 10 years. Am I missing anything? I know I should be starting with the least abrasive first, and normally I'd be nervous, but this car definitely needs something with good cut.

I think you'll do great on the job. Here's some stuff I would adjust base don the supplies you have.

There's no point to use a white pad with KSG as you're only looking to apply, so use a black pad with that. I would use a white pad with SF4000 (I assume you mistyped that SG4000) if necessary but if not, a black pad should be fine too. The rest looks good, but as you said, you should try a less aggressive combo (maybe FG400 and white) and see how that does.

Let us know how it goes.

Ivan @ DI

[railesq]

Yes, typo. And I got white and black confused, which, you'd think, being opposites...but whatever! I'm set straight now. It's a thing I'm doing for my dad, and I get the car next week, but I'll have it for 2 months or so. Likely 4th of July weekend I'll tackle the thing.

Thank you!

[Sergiokzn]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

I think you'll do great on the job. Here's some stuff I would adjust base don the supplies you have.

There's no point to use a white pad with KSG as you're only looking to apply, so use a black pad with that. I would use a white pad with SF4000 (I assume you mistyped that SG4000) if necessary but if not, a black pad should be fine too. The rest looks good, but as you said, you should try a less aggressive combo (maybe FG400 and white) and see how that does.

Let us know how it goes.

Ivan @ DI

Hi, i`ve read a lot of your posts but didn`t seem to find anything about using those "absorbo" (i believe that`s what they called) towels, you know the ones Walmart and auto zone sells..they have some kind of rubbery structure..So i was just wondering if they are safe to use before MF towel dry. Also is using a waterblade good for a clear coat? Because sometimes it makes that squeaky sound when dragging on a paint and it just kills me. Thank you!

[Sergiokzn]

Nevermind about the waterblade, just found your post about it on a previous page

[Sergiokzn]

But what about those "absorbo" things?

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by Sergiokzn

But what about those "absorbo" things?

The issue with those is that there's no "give" to them. Which means that if there's a particle stuck under it and you're dragging it across your paint, you're almost definitely causing some decent swirling or scratching. So if you do use them, you should simply blot dry by placing the "absorbo" (I think one is called the Absorber) on the paint to collect some water, then lifting straight up. I have owned a few long time ago and found that they don't last too long either, but I know there were some high quality ones that lasted quite a bit if maintained well. I would still recommend just using something like our Waffle Weave Drying Towel because it will be able to both blot dry but also wipe dry safely and effectively.

Ivan @ DI

[dshergill]

Quick question! I was looking into getting a pressure washer to use when I wash my car but wasn't sure what psi to go with. What is the highest psi I can go without running the risk of damaging my paint? Thanks in advance

[SHEEDI]

Originally Posted by Sergiokzn

Hi, i`ve read a lot of your posts but didn`t seem to find anything about using those "absorbo" (i believe that`s what they called) towels, you know the ones Walmart and auto zone sells..they have some kind of rubbery structure..So i was just wondering if they are safe to use before MF towel dry. Also is using a waterblade good for a clear coat? Because sometimes it makes that squeaky sound when dragging on a paint and it just kills me. Thank you!

Absorbent Shammy "rubbery material"

[LeggoMyE990]

Hey cool post, great info.

I have a 2 questions to ask.

First question, If im going to Zaino my car: wash, dry, claybar. Can I just go stright to applying the z2? or would I need to polish the car first with zpc?

And also, If im claybaring my car, it requires use of a quickdetailer or some sort, do I just use any quickdetailer with the claybar? Would the zaino z2 work with what ever quickdetailer was used?

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by dshergill

Quick question! I was looking into getting a pressure washer to use when I wash my car but wasn't sure what psi to go with. What is the highest psi I can go without running the risk of damaging my paint? Thanks in advance

Unfortunately (or fortunately I guess ) I never had the chance to find out the maximum PSI before damaging paint. When I use a pressure washer, it's normally in the 1500psi range. Also keep in mind to use a good nozzle/tip so that it both fans the water out to the sides and also maybe spreads it out so it's not all one stream going directly at the paint. Be careful with pinstripes, stickers, emblems, etc. at basically any pressure.

Originally Posted by LeggoMyE990

Hey cool post, great info.

I have a 2 questions to ask.

First question, If im going to Zaino my car: wash, dry, claybar. Can I just go stright to applying the z2? or would I need to polish the car first with zpc?

And also, If im claybaring my car, it requires use of a quickdetailer or some sort, do I just use any quickdetailer with the claybar? Would the zaino z2 work with what ever quickdetailer was used?

I'm not too familiar with the Zaino system, but polishing is definitely recommended before sealing the paint, especially if you're going to use a claybar beforehand. For the quick detailer, you'll want to use something that has plenty lube, so it may be a good option to look into dedicated clay lubes, such as Nanoskin Glide or Dodo Juice Born Slippy, instead of a generic clay bar. Hope that helps!

Ivan @ DI