[Tigermow]

George,

Just wondering whether you can help me on this.

I live in HK and will not have access to a proper hose wash, the best I can manage is to fill up a few buckets of water and wash my car. I used to have a silver colour E46 and that was not much of a problem (the silver paint masked up dirt and swirl marks pretty well) but now I have ordered a jet black E90 and I am worried about how to properly clean the car daily without damaging the paint work, creating swirl marks etc.

Autumn and winter in HK is ok as there is not much rain but come summer time, the weather is hot and it rains a lot, so the car would pick up a lot of dirt and grime and I have to wake up really early in the morning to wash the car.

Would be grateful for your opinion on how to properly wash my car and keep it shiny.

Thanks!

Lou

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by musc

George, I think I am definitely going to give it a try. As good as ONR is supposed to be at encapsulating dirt, it could help reduce the risk of scratching when used as part of a mix of CG CWG in a bucket!

Also, I think I finally got this mixing concentration figured out for the Foammaster II when using CG CWG. Greg from DI had a great post on Detail University outlining the amount to use per setting. It seemed like simple enough math, but I have actually been mixing it wrong.

Sounds good, keep us posted on how things turn out. I'm sure you'll like the combination once you find the right ratio to use of each product.

Let me know if you see any difference using a new ratio in the foam gun as well. Cheers.

Originally Posted by Tigermow

George,

Just wondering whether you can help me on this.

I live in HK and will not have access to a proper hose wash, the best I can manage is to fill up a few buckets of water and wash my car. I used to have a silver colour E46 and that was not much of a problem (the silver paint masked up dirt and swirl marks pretty well) but now I have ordered a jet black E90 and I am worried about how to properly clean the car daily without damaging the paint work, creating swirl marks etc.

Autumn and winter in HK is ok as there is not much rain but come summer time, the weather is hot and it rains a lot, so the car would pick up a lot of dirt and grime and I have to wake up really early in the morning to wash the car.

Would be grateful for your opinion on how to properly wash my car and keep it shiny.

Thanks!

Lou

Lou,

This is common amongst many auto detailing enthusiasts. What I'd suggest is looking into some Optimum No Rinse, 2 buckets with Grit Guard Inserts, a few sheepskin wash mitts and/or grout sponges, and some waffle weave drying towels.

Using this combination of products can help ensure you will get the safest possible wash without using a hose. Fill up 2 buckets of water, 1 with ONR solution and 1 with fresh water (rinse bucket). Simply dunk your mitt or grout sponge into the rinse bucket, get it wet, then into the ONR solution. Gently glide your wash medium on the paint using little pressure and let the ONR do it's magic. After cleaning an area, run your wash medium over the Grit Guard insert on the rinse bucket to release contamination, then get some more ONR solution in the other bucket. Continue this process until you've washed your entire vehicle and then gently blot dry the vehicle with the waffle weave drying towel.

Hope this helps.

George

[Tigermow]

Thanks George for your helpful advice. Will definitely try it once the car is delivered in 2 weeks time (fingers crossed)

Lou

[deletedelete]

I used a clay bar for the first time yesterday. The bar was very black at the end, much more then I was expecting. Then waxed and it turned out great.

I was looking around on the detailed image website but didnt recognize any brands. All I know is whats in my local autozone. Does your website sell better stuff? How does it compare to the regular stuff at autozone. Im mostly looking to buy a polisher to remove the spiderwebs and will need more wax soon and was wondering what to get.

Thanks

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by Tigermow

Thanks George for your helpful advice. Will definitely try it once the car is delivered in 2 weeks time (fingers crossed)

Lou

Congrats, keep us posted on how things turn out for you.

Originally Posted by Prowess Symphony

I used a clay bar for the first time yesterday. The bar was very black at the end, much more then I was expecting. Then waxed and it turned out great.

I was looking around on the detailed image website but didnt recognize any brands. All I know is whats in my local autozone. Does your website sell better stuff? How does it compare to the regular stuff at autozone. Im mostly looking to buy a polisher to remove the spiderwebs and will need more wax soon and was wondering what to get.

Thanks

I'd like to say a majority of products we stock are a step up from the your local selection at Auto Zone. We've hand selected each product on our site that we find perform great results consistently with each use.

If you're looking at a buffer I'd recommend looking into a Porter Cable 7424 or a Flex XC3401VRG. Both of these buffers are perfect for enthusiasts and professionals, as they provide great results while still being paint safe. Pair these up with some pads and polishes and you'll be removing those swirls and spiderwebs in no time.

For polishes, I'd strongly recommend looking into the Menzerna line of polishes. A good bang for the buck combo is Intensive Polish (typically used on an orange pad) followed by Final Polish II (typically used on a white pad).

A step up from this combination would be Super Intensive Polish on orange followed by PO106FF on white.

I'd recommend reading over our Polishing How-To Guide as well to get the most out of your experience. This would be an excellent start. If you have any other questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask.

George

[BrunoT]

velcro holding a radar detector onto the top of the dash was removed from my car, but a small part of the paint came up, showing the white color underneath. How can one touch up this panel so as to minimize the flaw? Is there a rubberized paint product or some other quick method to use?
Thanks,

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by brucec32

velcro holding a radar detector onto the top of the dash was removed from my car, but a small part of the paint came up, showing the white color underneath. How can one touch up this panel so as to minimize the flaw? Is there a rubberized paint product or some other quick method to use?
Thanks,

I never got into vinyl repair. I'd seek the advice of a local vinyl / leather repair shop, hopefully it's a quick fix for you.

Sorry I couldn't shed any more insight on this topic.

George

[Tigermow]

George,

Forgot to ask you before, if I use the ONR, will it strip out the existing wax I put on? Presumably no, in any case I went and ordered the list of recommended products from you anyway.

In relation to waxing the car, considering the hot summer months in HK, what do you recommend to keep the car looking nice and waxed in the hot months? I used to use Zymol (but they are hard to buy in HK - it is difficult to buy good detailer products from retailers in HK) and wax the car either early morning or towards the evening when the sun is not blazing down from the sky.

Many thanks!

Lou

[SG333E]

Hi There,

Curious what products you recommend for winter. Car is an Alpine White E90....4k miles, not daily driven but will see snow/salt. At this point it has zero swirl, etc (mf only) and I would like to keep it that way. Only thing that has been on it is a coat of real Zymol.

If this has been asked previously feel free to point me to a link.

Thanks,

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by Tigermow

George,

Forgot to ask you before, if I use the ONR, will it strip out the existing wax I put on? Presumably no, in any case I went and ordered the list of recommended products from you anyway.

In relation to waxing the car, considering the hot summer months in HK, what do you recommend to keep the car looking nice and waxed in the hot months? I used to use Zymol (but they are hard to buy in HK - it is difficult to buy good detailer products from retailers in HK) and wax the car either early morning or towards the evening when the sun is not blazing down from the sky.

Many thanks!

Lou

Lou,

ONR will not strip off your coats of protection. Depending on how hot the weather is, you may want to consider applying a sealant first for underlying protection. Sealants typically will be able to withstand higher temps than carnauba waxes and will last anywhere from 3 - 6 months. After your coat of sealant has cured (typically 24 hours) then you can opt to top it with a carnauba wax for additional protection and more depth and gloss. The best recommendations for applying a wax in hot weather is to use as thin of an application as possible. This will help aid in the removal process. You have the right idea on washing and waxing in the early morning or later in the evening.

If you have any other questions, please do not hesitate to ask. Keep us posted on what you think of the new products you picked up.

Originally Posted by SG333E

Hi There,

Curious what products you recommend for winter. Car is an Alpine White E90....4k miles, not daily driven but will see snow/salt. At this point it has zero swirl, etc (mf only) and I would like to keep it that way. Only thing that has been on it is a coat of real Zymol.

If this has been asked previously feel free to point me to a link.

Thanks,

The biggest thing I can recommend to you for the winter is to properly protect as much of your vehicle as possible. For the winter months, I typically protect my paint with a sealant instead of a wax since it's much more durable. If you have time, you can opt for both, but keep in mind most waxes last 4 - 8 weeks, compared to a sealant that lasts 3 - 6 months. A nice option is Blackfire Wet Diamond sealant with Polycharger technology.

I'd recommend protecting your wheels from the nasty salt and road contamination that comes with the winter months. I personally use Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant when it comes to protecting my wheels.

To help protect your carpets and floor mats, I use 303 High Tech Fabric Guard. This helps removing salt build ups and other nasty contamination much easier than if it wasn't protected.

For your interior and exterior trim, you can clean and protect in 1 step with Optimum Protectant Plus. This works great on leather, vinyl, rubber and plastic. I simply mist it into a microfiber towel and wipe down nearly my entire interior.

For your exterior glass, you could protect it with the sealant you end up using or something like Glass Science Rain Clear Gel. This will help minimize the use of your wipers when it snows and help remove contamination easier, helping improve visibility while driving.

Once you've properly protected your vehicle, maintaining it will be easy. I'd recommend investing in some Optimum No Rinse for the winter months. It's an amazing shampoo that does not require the use of a hose, simply 2 buckets full of water. I'd recommend using Grit Guard bucket inserts in both buckets to help minimize adding imperfections to the paint. Pair this up with a Lake Country Grout Sponge or sheepskin wash mitt and a waffle weave drying towel and you'll be able to maintain a clean car year round even through the winter months. All of this will be done while minimizing imperfections being added to the paint when cared for properly.

If you have any other questions regarding prepping your car for the winter, please do not hesitate to ask.

Regards,

George

[jtsai]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

As far as I know it's safe on powder coated wheels. If you want to be 100% sure, shoot Steve (owner of Poorboy's) an e-mail. I'll try to dig up the answer as well. If you get a reply back, let me know.



For a chemical polish, you could go with P21S Paintwork Cleanser or Poorboy's Pro Polish. Both of these products can clean the surface without leaving anything behind, making them an ideal prep before applying a sealant or wax.

For exhaust tips, I like to use either P21S Finish Restorer or Wenol with some 0000 grade steel wool, followed by a coat applied via foam applicator for increased shine. I have 2 new metal polishes coming in the next couple weeks. I'll keep you updated on those as well.

Good to hear from you.

George

I know this was from a while ago, but had a couple of questions in regards to this area (I've searched the thread to see if anyone asked these questions and nothing seems to show up. Other people have tested stuff and posted threads, but I couldn't find someone who asked George these questions). I was wondering if you use the products for exhausts with the chrome tips. If not, what would you recommend? Also how long does it usually stay clean before it goes back to the same condition? Finally, is there any way to permanently keep the stuff from coming back? I feel like those CLR commercials might make me a believer of keeping this stuff away haha.

Thanks!
Joyce

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by jtsai

I know this was from a while ago, but had a couple of questions in regards to this area (I've searched the thread to see if anyone asked these questions and nothing seems to show up. Other people have tested stuff and posted threads, but I couldn't find someone who asked George these questions). I was wondering if you use the products for exhausts with the chrome tips. If not, what would you recommend? Also how long does it usually stay clean before it goes back to the same condition? Finally, is there any way to permanently keep the stuff from coming back? I feel like those CLR commercials might make me a believer of keeping this stuff away haha.

Thanks!
Joyce

Good question Joyce. For neglected exhaust tips, I'll typically use some 0000 grade steel wool and apply some sort of metal polish, such as P21S Finish Restorer, Chemical Guys Metal Wax or Optimum Metal Polish. Rub it in with some light pressure to remove oxidation, contamination and exhaust build up. Then I'd recommend following that up with another application or two with a foam applicator pad. The 0000 steel wool combo may leave behind some micro marring and will not bring the shine to it's maximum potential. The Chemical Guys Metal Wax does have some protective characteristics, but due to the high temperatures of the exhaust, they don't protect for long. Some detailers will put some Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant to help prevent build up on the exhaust tips, but unfortunately because of the heat generated from the exhausts it doesn't last long. The best thing you can do is stay up with the maintenance of the tips to keep them looking newer longer.

Hope this helps a little,

George

[lincoln]

Hi George,

Great information on this post... I've spent over an hour and only got to page 15 so I decided to ask you a question. I'm sure it's been asked, but excuse the laziness - hoping you could point me in the right direction.

I have a new car (Melbourne Red) on order. I am getting ready to order your PC 7424. From what I've read - and keep in mind I'm not trying to be a REALLY THOROUGH detailer - I am going to wash, clay, wash, (polish if needed) seal, & wax. My question is what product do you recommend for the seal/waxing? I read that you said you like sealing and then waxing. I'm also assuming you use the PC to apply both the seal and wax? Do you use the white pad? Lastly is a polish needed for a new car? If so, do I need both the cutting and finishing or can I just use a finishing polish? Recommendations on products for everything is always great.

Thanks in advance!

[Kgolf31]

Originally Posted by lincoln

Hi George,

Great information on this post... I've spent over an hour and only got to page 15 so I decided to ask you a question. I'm sure it's been asked, but excuse the laziness - hoping you could point me in the right direction.

I have a new car (Melbourne Red) on order. I am getting ready to order your PC 7424. From what I've read - and keep in mind I'm not trying to be a REALLY THOROUGH detailer - I am going to wash, clay, wash, (polish if needed) seal, & wax. My question is what product do you recommend for the seal/waxing? I read that you said you like sealing and then waxing. I'm also assuming you use the PC to apply both the seal and wax? Do you use the white pad? Lastly is a polish needed for a new car? If so, do I need both the cutting and finishing or can I just use a finishing polish? Recommendations on products for everything is always great.

Thanks in advance!

I hope you don't mind me helping you out here. I am just lazy and bored....

For sealing and waxing. Everyone has a favorite. Jetseal 109, Wolfgang 3.0 Paint Sealant, Klasse HGS are just some sealants to name

For wax. CG 5050, Poorboys Natty Blue/Red, Dodo Juice etc. You will only achieve good results of any wax with proper prep work (ie, polishing)

You can apply the Sealant and Wax via PC. For liquid sealants, use Blue Pad. I tend to apply waxes with my bare hands or with an applicator pad.

It's a good idea to polish a brand new car, you want it to be on the right page when you recieve it, and keep it looking like that with proper washing........

[addy85]

Okay I got a quick question, what's the best thing to use for making the leather and the inside of the car smelling new again? Cherry smell would work also

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by lincoln

Hi George,

Great information on this post... I've spent over an hour and only got to page 15 so I decided to ask you a question. I'm sure it's been asked, but excuse the laziness - hoping you could point me in the right direction.

I have a new car (Melbourne Red) on order. I am getting ready to order your PC 7424. From what I've read - and keep in mind I'm not trying to be a REALLY THOROUGH detailer - I am going to wash, clay, wash, (polish if needed) seal, & wax. My question is what product do you recommend for the seal/waxing? I read that you said you like sealing and then waxing. I'm also assuming you use the PC to apply both the seal and wax? Do you use the white pad? Lastly is a polish needed for a new car? If so, do I need both the cutting and finishing or can I just use a finishing polish? Recommendations on products for everything is always great.

Thanks in advance!

Thanks for the post and kind words. Kgolf31 offered some great advice, I'll put in my .02 as well.

When it comes to protecting the paint, it's nice to use a sealant for underlying protection, then (after allowing for a 24 hour cure period) top it with a carnauba wax for added depth and gloss to the paint. While there are some sealants that last longer than others, I typically lean towards the ones that are the easiest to apply and remove. Some great options as far as ease of use are Menzerna FMJ, Chemical Guys Jet Seal 109, and Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger technology. Of the three, I'd vote the Blackfire offers the longest protection with the Polycharger, Menzerna FMJ gets the vote for easiest product to use and Jet Seal 109 offers the most depth and gloss. You won't go wrong with either of those 3 sealants. You can use a buffer to apply the sealant or opt to do it by hand. If you use a buffer, stick with a blue fine finishing pad. Personally, by the time it comes to seal and wax the vehicle, I just do it by hand. After a long polishing session, you will be pretty sick of the vibration from a PC.

For a wax, it really depends on what type of price range you're looking to spend. Some of my favorites that would complement the Melbourne Red are:

Natty's Red Paste Wax
P21S 100% Carnauba Wax
Chemical Guys 50/50 Wax
Pinnacle Souveran
Blackfire Midnight Sun
Dodo Juice Orange Crush
Dodo Juice Banana Armour
Dodo Juice Supernatural
Chemical Guys E-Zyme

Any of those would look stunning and offer slightly different characteristics, such as ease of application and removal, amount of depth and gloss, durability, how sharp the reflections are, how tight the water beads, etc.

Polishing a new car is dependent on the condition of the vehicle upon arrival. If there are imperfections needed to be removed, which in most cases the dealer prep adds some, then you'll probably want to polish. Hopefully, unless they really hack up the prep, you can get away with just a finishing polish. Menzerna PO106FF would be a great polish to have on hand for lighter imperfections and the depth and gloss created from that polish is phenomenal. I'd work that in using a white polishing pad. If you need more correction than that, then something like Super Intensive Polish on an orange pad would be the next logical step.

If you have any other questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask. Keep us posted on what you end up using and how things turn out, snap some pics if you can! Enjoy your new BMW

Originally Posted by addy85

Okay I got a quick question, what's the best thing to use for making the leather and the inside of the car smelling new again? Cherry smell would work also

Poorboy's Leather Stuff does a good job bringing back a natural leather scent to your seats. It's a great all in one product that cleans, lightly conditions and UV protects your leather. Perfect for maintaining your leather and keeping a fresh leather scent.

The new car smell is essentially the adhesives out gassing into your cabin area. I've yet to find a scent that replicates the new car smell.

Consider trying the Squash Air Fresheners we offer, it's more of a fresh smell, but I've gotten so many compliments on it when people get into my car.

Cheers,

George

[lincoln]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

When it comes to protecting the paint, it's nice to use a sealant for underlying protection, then (after allowing for a 24 hour cure period) top it with a carnauba wax for added depth and gloss to the paint.

Polishing a new car is dependent on the condition of the vehicle upon arrival. If there are imperfections needed to be removed, which in most cases the dealer prep adds some, then you'll probably want to polish. Hopefully, unless they really hack up the prep, you can get away with just a finishing polish. Menzerna PO106FF would be a great polish to have on hand for lighter imperfections and the depth and gloss created from that polish is phenomenal. I'd work that in using a white polishing pad. If you need more correction than that, then something like Super Intensive Polish on an orange pad would be the next logical step.

Cheers,

George

Thank you for the awesome write up George, I really sincerely appreciate it. A couple of follow up questions. I've read the 24 cure time for a sealant. But that's after removing the sealant, correct? How long do I let the sealant stay on there before removing? I'm thinking out loud here, but I've read that people leave it overnight. Well if that's the case, it could be pushing on 2 days before applying wax. Does one have to leave their car in the garage away from dust/elements for those 2 days? Meaning, you wouldn't want to wax if the car was dusty. Just thinking out loud, please humor me with what you do.

Second, let's say there's not many swirl marks on my car throughout the year (or that the minor blemishes that would bother someone else, wouldn't bother me) - do you recommend polishing the car anyway? If so, just the finishing polish or the the cutting polish?

Thanks again George!

[lincoln]

Originally Posted by Kgolf31

I hope you don't mind me helping you out here. I am just lazy and bored....

For sealing and waxing. Everyone has a favorite. Jetseal 109, Wolfgang 3.0 Paint Sealant, Klasse HGS are just some sealants to name

For wax. CG 5050, Poorboys Natty Blue/Red, Dodo Juice etc. You will only achieve good results of any wax with proper prep work (ie, polishing)

You can apply the Sealant and Wax via PC. For liquid sealants, use Blue Pad. I tend to apply waxes with my bare hands or with an applicator pad.

It's a good idea to polish a brand new car, you want it to be on the right page when you recieve it, and keep it looking like that with proper washing........

Of course I don't mind the additional information - thank you for taking the time to write this up - the more opinions I gather, the better able I am in forming my own. Thank you!

[Kgolf31]

Originally Posted by lincoln

Thank you for the awesome write up George, I really sincerely appreciate it. A couple of follow up questions. I've read the 24 cure time for a sealant. But that's after removing the sealant, correct? How long do I let the sealant stay on there before removing? I'm thinking out loud here, but I've read that people leave it overnight. Well if that's the case, it could be pushing on 2 days before applying wax. Does one have to leave their car in the garage away from dust/elements for those 2 days? Meaning, you wouldn't want to wax if the car was dusty. Just thinking out loud, please humor me with what you do.

Thanks again George!

Just from a detailer stand point. I tend to leave my sealants on for around a hour. This is usually called "Dry Time". You don't want to put anything ontop of the sealant before the "Cure Time" is up, usually 24 hours.........

If do you put something ontop of the sealant before hand, it's ok, you just might not get as much durability out of the sealant.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by lincoln

Thank you for the awesome write up George, I really sincerely appreciate it. A couple of follow up questions. I've read the 24 cure time for a sealant. But that's after removing the sealant, correct? How long do I let the sealant stay on there before removing? I'm thinking out loud here, but I've read that people leave it overnight. Well if that's the case, it could be pushing on 2 days before applying wax. Does one have to leave their car in the garage away from dust/elements for those 2 days? Meaning, you wouldn't want to wax if the car was dusty. Just thinking out loud, please humor me with what you do.

Second, let's say there's not many swirl marks on my car throughout the year (or that the minor blemishes that would bother someone else, wouldn't bother me) - do you recommend polishing the car anyway? If so, just the finishing polish or the the cutting polish?

Thanks again George!

You are on the right track. Cure time is the time after the product is removed from the vehicle and it is still undergoing the process of bonding to your paint, not necessarily how long the product is physically sitting on your paint. Personally, I will apply the entire coat of sealant, then by the time I'm done applying the entire car, I start to remove. Be careful because certain products won't have a friendly removal process if you do this, but all of the ones I listed do.

If you're anxious to drive your car after removing the sealant, simply apply the coat of wax after your first maintenance wash. It makes that wash more enjoyable, plus you can appreciate the differences a little better as you were able to soak in the look of the sealant for a few days.

As far as polishing goes, you always want to use the least aggressive product that gives you the results you're looking for. Start with a finishing polish in a small 1' x 1' area and monitor the results. If it looks good to you, then that's all you need, if you want better correction, step it up to a two step combo, and so on...

As you said, the best thing you can do is read up and absorb as much information as possible, then make an informed decision based on your personal needs, budget, color car, etc. Everyone will have a different opinion on what they do or what product is best, but if you master the proper techniques, any of the quality products out there will not let you down.

Please do not hesitate to contact me with any other questions you may have.

Originally Posted by Kgolf31

Just from a detailer stand point. I tend to leave my sealants on for around a hour. This is usually called "Dry Time". You don't want to put anything ontop of the sealant before the "Cure Time" is up, usually 24 hours.........

If do you put something ontop of the sealant before hand, it's ok, you just might not get as much durability out of the sealant.

+1 Well said Kgolf31

George

[lincoln]

Thanks again George (& Kgolf31). So I decided to get the following from your site and I'll order it in the next day or so.

Shampoo - I've heard you recommend CG CWG and Poorboy's WSS&S. Not sure which I should get - I was leaning towards Poorboy's.

Clay - CG's blue & luber

Polish - I'm going to hold off on this until I think the paint needs it. I'm hoping by asking the dealership to bypass the prep and also apply some of the washing techniques I've learned on this forum as well as your website will help me put this off. Please chime in if you really think this is an important step I'm bypassing.

JetSeal 109 & CG 5050 wax.

Some miscellaneous products I'm picking up are:

Sheepskin mit (do you recommend this vs the ulti-mit?)
Waffle weave drying towel (have you ever used rubber squeegees to remove water?)
Wheel sealant
Blue finishing pad
Aerospace protectant.
Grit Guard

Thank you again for your time and answers!

[UncleWede]

(have you ever used rubber squeegees to remove water?)
Please, don't do that to your car!!!

Blue finishing pad
If you don't have a polisher, you don't need a pad.

I didn't see anywhere that you have a bunch of MF towels. George has some nice ones, but Cosco has them in bulk as well. Can never have enough MF towels.