[WDBi]

I have a 2007 e92 335i.

current mods are:
JB4 G5 iso w/ COBB backend flash 100% e85 map 5
Dual cone intake
BMS oil catch can
VRSF downpipes
VRSF intercooler
Straight piped exhaust but with added vibrant resonators
M3 front suspension conversion bits
VMR 18x8.5 18x9.5
Toyo R888 255 285
zimmerman rotors
porsche super blue fluid
EBC red stuff
Motul power racing 300v 5w30
Water Wetter
Front alumalite splitter
m3 front bumper
some weight reduction car weighs 3400lbs without me in with a 1/2 tank of gas

Im in the market for:
Limited slip diff - -Which one do you guys suggest?
Coilovers - Im looking for soemthing that i can get for around 2k with camber plates

Right now the car is pretty great i never have problems over heating and the grip is incredible with the r888's

does anyone have any suggestions on any mods i should do?

[jbass524]

Originally Posted by Will@StageX

I have a 2007 e92 335i.

current mods are:
JB4 G5 iso w/ COBB backend flash 100% e85 map 5
Dual cone intake
BMS oil catch can
VRSF downpipes
VRSF intercooler
Straight piped exhaust but with added vibrant resonators
M3 front suspension conversion bits
VMR 18x8.5 18x9.5
Toyo R888 255 285
zimmerman rotors
porsche super blue fluid
EBC red stuff
Motul power racing 300v 5w30
Water Wetter
Front alumalite splitter
m3 front bumper
some weight reduction car weighs 3400lbs without me in with a 1/2 tank of gas

Im in the market for:
Limited slip diff - -Which one do you guys suggest?
Coilovers - Im looking for soemthing that i can get for around 2k with camber plates

Right now the car is pretty great i never have problems over heating and the grip is incredible with the r888's

does anyone have any suggestions on any mods i should do?

Don't scrimp on suspension! Spend twice as much and you'll be three times happier.

It'll do a lot more for you than a limited slip although that is a great upgrade.

[SneakyDeeky]

I'm in the market for a LSD too. I know TurboMike has a Wavetrac. You could PM him what he thinks about it. If you do, post his response as I'm curious too.

As for coil overs, I love my KW V1s even though they don't have camber plates. You could always pick up a set of Vorshlag CPs, though. I think they run in the $200-300 price range.

Glad to see you haven't had any issues with limp mode or over-heating even though you just have the OEM oil cooler. I'm on the fence about whether or not I should pick one up before I go to the track or just wait and see. My oil temps were up over 250F this morning cruising on Angeles Crest (highway 2) and it was 40 degrees up there. I'd imagine any track in the desert would put me into limp mode.

Any videos of you tracking?

Nice car any pics?

[efdiesel3s]

Lets see I'd go for the ohlins road and track coilovers with custom swift springs and the vorshlag camber plates. Quaife LSD and it is essential that you get it corner balanced and aligned by someone who knows what the hell they are doing. I've decided the shop I would go to when I get my LSD is HP Autowerks in Santa Barbara. Best alignment shop I've ever been to and the ONLY place I will ever get my car aligned is West End Alignment in Gardena. If you really don't know what you want I'd suggest calling HP Autowerks and talking with Harold.

[WDBi]

Originally Posted by efdiesel3s

Lets see I'd go for the ohlins road and track coilovers with custom swift springs and the vorshlag camber plates. Quaife LSD and it is essential that you get it corner balanced and aligned by someone who knows what the hell they are doing. I've decided the shop I would go to when I get my LSD is HP Autowerks in Santa Barbara. Best alignment shop I've ever been to and the ONLY place I will ever get my car aligned is West End Alignment in Gardena. If you really don't know what you want I'd suggest calling HP Autowerks and talking with Harold.

thanks i just need to find a good place in florida to do an alignment..

[3002 tii]

I'm surprised you are tracking with vmr's and ebc red. Those wheels are ridiculously heavy and those pads are really meant for street use.

While ohlins are ideal not sure how streetable those are assuming you're not trailoring this car. If this car is still your daily I'd look for something more street friendly, ie kw clubsports which come with camber plates.

[efdiesel3s]

The ohlins are called ROAD & track coilovers. So I'm pretty sure they'll be more than adequate on the street. "This balanced suspension package provides racetrack performance with street comfort" <-- taken from ohlinsusa site.

As for where to get your alignment and corner balance in Florida. I'd ask Improved Racing (http://www.improvedracing.com/contact_us.php) I bought the owners slightly used ohlins pcv with custom swift springs for my RX7. He's a ohlins distributor and an engineer. Should know whats up in Florida.

[efdiesel3s]

Originally Posted by DSC_OFF

I'm surprised you are tracking with vmr's and ebc red. Those wheels are ridiculously heavy and those pads are really meant for street use.

If you are still new to tracking and wont be threshold braking then you should be okay. Just read the brake fade.

[3002 tii]

Originally Posted by efdiesel3s

If you are still new to tracking and wont be threshold braking then you should be okay. Just read the brake fade.

I agree but eventually you will and you'll need to upgrade pads before you touch the suspension

[efdiesel3s]

might as well get some track pads and have them handy just incase. always better to over prepared.

[jbass524]

Just a note: brakes, tires, and suspension are all part of a system that needs to be matched. Too much pad for tires=bad. Too much tire for suspension=not great. Not enough suspension for tires=not great.

There's more but with the Ohlin Street/Track, which are great on the street BTW, an R-comp with race pads or extreme summer tire with something like PFC Z-Rated would be great.

There's a lot more detail but this "Balanced System" concept is important in developing your car.

Just IMHO

[will.c]

You got a lot of power and r comps. If Red stuff doesn't workout for you, let me advise you to save some money and troubles of trying other useless pads, and go straight to PFC01.

[WDBi]

Originally Posted by efdiesel3s

The ohlins are called ROAD & track coilovers. So I'm pretty sure they'll be more than adequate on the street. "This balanced suspension package provides racetrack performance with street comfort" <-- taken from ohlinsusa site.

As for where to get your alignment and corner balance in Florida. I'd ask Improved Racing (http://www.improvedracing.com/contact_us.php) I bought the owners slightly used ohlins pcv with custom swift springs for my RX7. He's a ohlins distributor and an engineer. Should know whats up in Florida.

yeah the guy that owns that place or is quite high up is good friend of a friend but its a bit far away

Originally Posted by DSC_OFF

I'm surprised you are tracking with vmr's and ebc red. Those wheels are ridiculously heavy and those pads are really meant for street use.

While ohlins are ideal not sure how streetable those are assuming you're not trailoring this car. If this car is still your daily I'd look for something more street friendly, ie kw clubsports which come with camber plates.

i have been told the ohlins road and track are perfect for a street/ track setup.

the vmr wheels had good offsets for the size tire i wanted to run 255/285 but i think im going to make the switch to apex ec7 18x9 front 265 and 18x10.5 305 rear

Originally Posted by wonho

You got a lot of power and r comps. If Red stuff doesn't workout for you, let me advise you to save some money and troubles of trying other useless pads, and go straight to PFC01.

The pads were on the car and i just decided to use them i have recently been looking into pagid yellow endurance pads at least thats what i think they are. ive looked around on the m3 forums and alot of people seem to like them alot and they seem to last a while

but i will look into the pfc01



Also whats the best mod you have done for your car for the track? Im expecting suspension brakes tires driving school etc.. but i would like to hear some small things that you have done that surprised you

[yandy]

Originally Posted by Will@StageX

yeah the guy that owns that place or is quite high up is good friend of a friend but its a bit far away




i have been told the ohlins road and track are perfect for a street/ track setup.

the vmr wheels had good offsets for the size tire i wanted to run 255/285 but i think im going to make the switch to apex ec7 18x9 front 265 and 18x10.5 305 rear



The pads were on the car and i just decided to use them i have recently been looking into pagid yellow endurance pads at least thats what i think they are. ive looked around on the m3 forums and alot of people seem to like them alot and they seem to last a while

but i will look into the pfc01



Also whats the best mod you have done for your car for the track? Im expecting suspension brakes tires driving school etc.. but i would like to hear some small things that you have done that surprised you

The PFC01's are great pads, great torque, easy to modulate. But they will wear out quick(ly). The PFC08 is the endurance version similar to the Pagid Yellow RS29, it's hard to go wrong with either of those two.

[UltraRacer13]

I run the PFC 08's at the track. AMAZING bite and no fade. And they hold up great. Worth the $$$.

[mike-y]

Also, maybe run less of a stagger on your tires (or none at all) for more neutral handling.

[WDBi]

Originally Posted by mike-y

Also, maybe run less of a stagger on your tires (or none at all) for more neutral handling.

The way i look at it is is why not put to a certain point the widest tire you can fit on each corner.

Does anyone have suggestions for wheels that are light and come in 18x9 et30ish and 18x10-11 et40 ish i don't use separate wheels for track and dd so i would just like 1 set of wide wheels

[jbass524]

Originally Posted by Will@StageX

The way i look at it is is why not put to a certain point the widest tire you can fit on each corner.

Does anyone have suggestions for wheels that are light and come in 18x9 et30ish and 18x10-11 et40 ish i don't use separate wheels for track and dd so i would just like 1 set of wide wheels

APEX has the ARC-8 and EC-7. This is my E36 with EC-7s - 8X9” ET31 front and 18X9.5” ET43 rear. They also make an 18X10" ET43:

[WDBi]

yeah i looked at apex as they have a 9 front 10 rear setup that would work but i think i could go 10.5 in the back pretty easily...

[UltraRacer13]

The more you stagger the setup the more the car will push in the turns. You can dial up the firmness all you want in the rear and soften the front, but with a big stagger the car will push and eat front rubber.

[WDBi]

currently my car is neutral if i throttle through a turn it will oversteer if i let off in a turn it will understeer 255 285 i think it wil be ok doing 265 295 or 305 and it will probably be faster due to the fact that in general i will have more traction and be able to exit turns faster

[The HACK]

Originally Posted by Will@StageX

currently my car is neutral if i throttle through a turn it will oversteer if i let off in a turn it will understeer 255 285 i think it wil be ok doing 265 295 or 305 and it will probably be faster due to the fact that in general i will have more traction and be able to exit turns faster

That's OPPOSITE of what a neutral car should do. A neutral car would push (what many would call understeer) with more throttle and tug (most mistaken with oversteer) with less. Something is seriously wrong with either your setup or your driving.

Here comes some worthless opinion on my part.

A build requires IDENTIFYING what is the weak point of a chassis and fixing and addressing those weak point accordingly. Throwing parts at it willy-nilly may actually exacerbate the weak point of the chassis.

In my opinion, the E9X chassis is so advanced that 90% of the issues can be resolved without touching the chassis. The BIGGEST weak point of the E9X, and 335i by extension, is the COOLING SYSTEM. If you can't address that first, fixing everything else is meaningless. By making the chassis faster, you're only exacerbating the cooling issues inherent in multiple part of the chassis.

So any talk of a build without 1) upgrading cooling for the engine and 2) upgrading cooling for the brakes and 3) upgrading heat capacity of the tires will ultimately result in a car that will be LESS drivable compared to stock. Frankly, if what you're saying is true, that you have not had any cooling issues at track (unless, of course, it's a straight track you're talking about, i.e. 1/4 mile), then the problem with your chassis, and the BIGGEST weak point of the car, is with the DRIVER.

Again. IMO. If you don't fix those weak points first, "building" out the chassis is meaningless.