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Another catch can install
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02-10-2016, 03:29 PM | #1 |
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Another catch can install
Figured I'd post this up since it was my first mod on the car since buying it 2 weeks ago. At 68k I really need a CBU cleaning, but I still wanted to install a catch can in the mean time.
I went to pull out the stock rubber hose and... Ya, I'd say this thing has seen better days. For only 68K I'm both surprised and disappointed that it was in such poor shape. Anyway, I installed these 90* rubber elbows that came with the kit. They have a very snug fit and didn't require any hose clamps at all. I then hooked up the 1/2" ID fuel line using some 1/2" barbed hose fittings and ran the hose around the intake pipe The lines run underneath the airbox snorkel thingy and stay out of the way nicely. They almost look OEM. I had hoped to run them under the engine cover, but they were rubbing quite a bit on the underside edges. So to prevent any chaffing/damage I kept them on top. I'm on the lookout for some 90* elbows I can use to clean up the angle just before they enter the can, so that the hose doesn't have to run around the dipstick. Then I washed it and took it down the street to this weird mural I spotted the other day... makes for a nice backdrop though! Last edited by Dazza335iC; 02-10-2016 at 03:36 PM.. |
02-10-2016, 07:47 PM | #3 |
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I actually got it from another member on here. Not sure where he got it from, but the brand is ADD: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
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02-10-2016, 08:52 PM | #4 |
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Can't tell for sure, but if your routing has "low points" in your hoses, then this presents a possible problem with fumes condensing and liquid building up in those low points and constricting, and possibly blocking, crankcase venting. This would be a deeply suboptimal situation.
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02-11-2016, 10:00 AM | #6 | |
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The purpose of a catch can is to separate out the oil vapor that is part of the crankcase ventilation system. In these diesel engines the oil vapor combines with the soot from the EGR system to form hard, nasty carbon buildup in the intake system. By removing the oil vapor from the crankcase air before it gets to the air intake, it will help prevent much of the carbon buildup. |
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02-11-2016, 12:00 PM | #7 | |
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Quote:
---- If a constriction forms (freezing or fluid build up), you could blow out the engine seals (main seal too) due to pressure build up in the crank case. Lots of folks have done expensive damage to their engines due to CCV and Catch Can Failures. |
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02-11-2016, 12:02 PM | #8 |
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Velocity in the tubing "should" prevent any blockage in normal ops. I'd be more worried about it freezing overnight, depending on where you live. Alot of the cranckcase vapor is water/moisture. Not sure what would happen under those circumstances.
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02-11-2016, 04:38 PM | #9 |
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That's a lot of plumbing! With the VW TDI "elephant hose" mod people ran the vent hose straight down toward the ground with a soup can secured under the open end. Gravity collected the oil which deposited in the can. It's not a lot of oil so the can never really filled up.
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02-11-2016, 05:06 PM | #10 | |
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02-12-2016, 09:10 AM | #11 |
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I ran open CCV with 1" hose for about a week. Definite visible plume from under car when stopped at lights. I didn't want to draw attention from police (as this is just tip of iceberg) so I went back to closed system. Another member and I compared and I had more flow coming out. Perhaps the part on the valve cover (other end of OEM hard plastic duct) on mine is messed up and allowing more gas to escape the crank case. IDK.
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02-13-2016, 10:06 AM | #12 |
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That's interesting BB, I haven't tried it on the D because EGR is not an issue for me, eliminating the need for the CCV mod. It's surprising to me you would have so much blowby that would be visible behind the car.
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02-13-2016, 11:19 AM | #13 |
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Editted:
Under engine when stopped at lights. I ran ~21" hose down front of engine and out one of the lower close out panel. I could see the plume from driver's seat when stopped. I am in the camp of trying to stop both the soot and oil from getting to intake. If oil gets all the way to intake port, heat of the engine will cook it down to coke. I know, we can't stop other oil sources but doing best I can. Yesterday, I removed about 1oz of oil from catch can after 1390 miles driven. I have same brand can as you. My run to can is more like 10" each direction though. Can is just in front of engine's thermostat so it should be getting cool air. I recall others emptying ~5 oz for perhaps a 5000 mile drive period. Mark M, can you provide your numbers please? Different people are seeing different rates of collection. I wonder aloud if predominant use is freeway speed versus local driving(me) influences this ? Last edited by BB_cuda; 02-13-2016 at 11:47 AM.. |
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02-13-2016, 12:01 PM | #14 |
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It also helps keep the intercooler clean which keeps iats down and performance up. But yes the car no matter if we block the egr and put a catch can on will eventually develop cbu on the intake valves and ports just like any other di car.
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02-13-2016, 02:13 PM | #16 |
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For mine I used silicon hoses for the elbows instead of the rubber pcv connects as the rubber connectors fail over time
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02-13-2016, 02:43 PM | #17 |
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Interesting points. I never expected to see much buildup from the oil only. Maybe a catch can is in my future. When it warms up...
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02-17-2016, 05:41 AM | #18 | |
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As stated before, with my Mann ProVent 200 install, I collect 4-5 oz of oil every 450-550 miles. Highway miles produce less blow by, for example, on my frequent drives to south Florida ~680 miles one way, I produce about 2-3 oz. |
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02-17-2016, 08:05 AM | #19 |
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Thanks sukutash. Your data confirms my thought that different vehicles emit more or less out of crank case duct. I ran the math on 5 oz for 550 miles and extrapolated out to 5000 miles and got 45.45 oz (1.34 L). If I were passing this much oil and not catching in my less effective can (saying your Provent is way better at catching than my AD1), I would be way down on dipstick reading at end of oil change interval. My dipstick always reads very close to full mark.
Does your provent setup drain back to crankcase or overboard drain valve? I read through your Provent thread before as well as another guy's and one of you had drain going into dipstick tube. A tee was installed into the dipstick tube I recall and a check valve was placed in between. |
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02-17-2016, 08:25 AM | #20 |
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I have a clear vinyl tube that is routed down and through an opening in the lower engine bay trim with a petcock valve. I already know that I have to do a drain at approximately 450- 550 miles and I have the clear tubing as a visual indicator.
I too have the check valve from Mann, sitting in my tool box, to do the drain into the engine but haven't attempted it yet. The individual who did install his valve into the oil dipstick tube I believe did it to an X5d and seems like a good idea. I've been trying to come up with a different solution lately though. |
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02-17-2016, 08:39 AM | #21 |
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I'm not running a catch can - OEM setup except for EGR. But the dipstick never shows I am losing oil, so it must not be burning too much. I have 66k miles and do about 60% city driving.
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02-17-2016, 09:27 AM | #22 | |
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