[hawaiianeze]

Alright guys well I'm pretty new to the whole detailing thing and have lurked around a lot in this section reading up on stuff that I'm going to need. I have a Porter Cable 7424xp and am going with 5in backplate. But now it's time to go pick up all my chemicals.

I have a Jet Black E90 has a lot of light scratches and swirls that are very unattractive in direct sunlight.

I'm fortunate enough to have chemical guys a driving distance away from me so I will be using them to get all my products.

This is what I'm thinking

Pads: Hex logic (Orange White Black)
Clay Bar: (need suggestions)
Quick Detailing Spray (Luber)
Paint Correction Polish (need suggestions)
Wax/Sealant (need suggestions)

Let me know which ones from chemical guys I should get or if im missing anything. Thanks for the help!

[Otruba_843]

Please don't use all of Chemical Guys stuff. Most of its over-hyped garbage with the exception of a few products. Invest in some real polishes and compounds from Menzerna. BTW, the whole hex-logic thing is a gimmick. They are at least $1-2 more and don't work as well as a flat pad. The max pad size you can use on a PC is 5.5 inches. See link below.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=850463

[Zero_09]

Check out Auto Detailing Solutions

They have very competitive prices. You can get 12pk 3.5" pads with the backing plate and 6 pk 5.5" pads for around $60. These are Buff & Shine pads. Make sure you email them asking for a 3.5" backing plate for your Porter Cable instead of a Rotary polisher. You can also check out Car-Pro US for some other detailing stuff that Autodetailingsolutions don't have.

[-Rizzo-]

For detailing pads I go with lake county. IMO they have worked wonders for me.

For sealant - blue pad
Hard cutter like m105 - orange pad
Light cutter like m205 - white pad

Here is what I use, granted everyone is different:

Wax - poor boys 50/50 wax
Sealant - black fire paint sealant
Cutters to remove swirls - m105 and 205
Quick detailer - poorboys spray and wipe.
Quick wax poorboys spray and wax.
To polish exhaust tips - 1000 grit steel wool with meguiars mag and aluminum polish. Can be used to polish other things.
Clay bar - NanoSkin AutoScrub Fine Foam Pad. This is gods gift IMO. You use the pads on your buffer and put it on speed 1. You spray the car with clay lube and once done with the area wipe it off. Cuts clay bar time down in half.

The site I get my stuff off is detailedimage.com. They have reviews on there and if you have questions you ask them. They have helped me choose what to use and to buy. It's up to you what you get.

[hawaiianeze]

Originally Posted by Otruba_843

Please don't use all of Chemical Guys stuff. Most of its over-hyped garbage with the exception of a few products. Invest in some real polishes and compounds from Menzerna. BTW, the whole hex-logic thing is a gimmick. They are at least $1-2 more and don't work as well as a flat pad. The max pad size you can use on a PC is 5.5 inches. See link below.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=850463

Originally Posted by Zero_09

Check out Auto Detailing Solutions

They have very competitive prices. You can get 12pk 3.5" pads with the backing plate and 6 pk 5.5" pads for around $60. These are Buff & Shine pads. Make sure you email them asking for a 3.5" backing plate for your Porter Cable instead of a Rotary polisher. You can also check out Car-Pro US for some other detailing stuff that Autodetailingsolutions don't have.

Originally Posted by -Rizzo-

For detailing pads I go with lake county. IMO they have worked wonders for me.

For sealant - blue pad
Hard cutter like m105 - orange pad
Light cutter like m205 - white pad

Here is what I use, granted everyone is different:

Wax - poor boys 50/50 wax
Sealant - black fire paint sealant
Cutters to remove swirls - m105 and 205
Quick detailer - poorboys spray and wipe.
Quick wax poorboys spray and wax.
To polish exhaust tips - 1000 grit steel wool with meguiars mag and aluminum polish. Can be used to polish other things.
Clay bar - NanoSkin AutoScrub Fine Foam Pad. This is gods gift IMO. You use the pads on your buffer and put it on speed 1. You spray the car with clay lube and once done with the area wipe it off. Cuts clay bar time down in half.

The site I get my stuff off is detailedimage.com. They have reviews on there and if you have questions you ask them. They have helped me choose what to use and to buy. It's up to you what you get.

Thanks for all the responses guys although I actually picked up my stuff before you guys chimed in lol. I picked up blue clay bar (fine) (should've went with medium though) V36 cutting polish, V38 finishing polish, V7 sealant . Hex logic 5.5in orange, white, black (they even threw in a red and blue as well) Started working on the roof (one of the only original parts of the car still left, probably hasnt been detailed ever) Clay bar was straight black haha. Very happy with how its turning out so far.

[to_riffic]

As an alternative, try M101 instead of M105. Costs a bit more, but has more cutting power in less time and less dust compared to M105. You will not be disappointed.

[Otruba_843]

Originally Posted by ra2fanatic

As an alternative, try M101 instead of M105. Costs a bit more, but has more cutting power in less time and less dust compared to M105. You will not be disappointed.

Menzerna FG 400 over M101 or M105 any day. People make M105 out to be some miracle product when it's really a PITA to use.

[jbnery6465]

Originally Posted by Otruba_843

Menzerna FG 400 over M101 or M105 any day. People make M105 out to be some miracle product when it's really a PITA to use.

I've been using the M105/M205 combo and have been very happy with the results. But the M105 is a PITA to work in, especially when it starts to dry up prematurely. Took a quick look at the M101 and might pick that up since it's formulated especialy for foam pads (maybe that's why I've been having a tough time with M105). I know Mezerna's products are great but haven't tried them yet.

As for the OP, you might want to look into doing the 'straight line' method when applying your sealant. I think Autogeek has some vids on Youtube. It'll help reduce the possibility of introducing new swirls. And if you haven't thought of it already, you may want to do multiple coats of your sealant for increased durability - as long as you let the sealant "cure" before each coat.

Has anyone else done this?

[psnt1ol]

Originally Posted by jbnery6465

I've been using the M105/M205 combo and have been very happy with the results. But the M105 is a PITA to work in, especially when it starts to dry up prematurely. Took a quick look at the M101 and might pick that up since it's formulated especialy for foam pads (maybe that's why I've been having a tough time with M105). I know Mezerna's products are great but haven't tried them yet.

M101 is a bit more user friendly in comparison to M105. M101 also finish much better than M105. Please keep this in mind. These are pretty aggressive products. These compounds should be reserve for the really nasty stuff. Too many people go to these products automatically without exploring less aggressive options.

Here is an example:
.
Before



After M101 on Flex 3401 with an Orange Hybrid Cutting Pad

[magungo]

you can also try meguiars d300 and d301.

[to_riffic]

I'm at the stage where my paint doesn't require aggressive compounds, so I've stuck with M205 quite extensively with either a green or blue polish pad from detailersdomain. I still have a lot of M105 left and a brand new bottle of M101 to use, so it'll be a while before I really tap into those bottles again.

[Hybrid For Life]

Congrats on your CG purchase!


Here is what I use/recommend from them
Pads: Hex logic Orange White Black
Clay Bar: Medium
Quick Detailing Spray: CG speedwipe(quick detailing when car is dusty) and also V7(after wash)
Paint Correction Polish: V36 & 38
Wax/Sealant: Black light, Jetseal 109

[Javy]

Originally Posted by Otruba_843

Menzerna FG 400 over M101 or M105 any day. People make M105 out to be some miracle product when it's really a PITA to use.

+1

Menzerna FG400 is great. Followed by some Menzerna Super Finish SF4000 or SF4500 ( if needed). Then to finish it off some Menzerna Power Lock Polymer Sealant. Menzerna products are great products to use. If you use the proper pads and techniques, your paint correction and detail will come out great. Good Luck !

[aarwilli]

For my Jet Black paint, I found that D300 on the MF Cutting pad followed by Menzerna DF4500 on a blue or black foam pad was a great combo. It removed the majority of imperfections in the paint. On my mom's TSX in black (softer paint), I used the D300 and D301 combo and that also worked very well.

[tmdals0213]

Originally Posted by Otruba_843

Please don't use all of Chemical Guys stuff. Most of its over-hyped garbage with the exception of a few products. Invest in some real polishes and compounds from Menzerna. BTW, the whole hex-logic thing is a gimmick. They are at least $1-2 more and don't work as well as a flat pad. The max pad size you can use on a PC is 5.5 inches. See link below.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=850463

Hello Otruba,

I've seen "some" of your other posts of detailing products, but I was wondering if you have any recommendations for a concentrated quick detailer that you might use? or any quick detailer you like and have use(d).

Thank you!

[Otruba_843]

Originally Posted by tmdals0213

Hello Otruba,

I've seen "some" of your other posts of detailing products, but I was wondering if you have any recommendations for a concentrated quick detailer that you might use? or any quick detailer you like and have use(d).

Thank you!

The only time I use a Quick Detailer (QD) is for claying or removing bird crap. Optimum No-Rinse can be diluted to a clay lube and a QD and its super slick although it does smell like watered down skanky beer. Make sure to dilute it with distilled water. I use spray sealants/waxes which are QD's with light protection added after every wash to extend the durability of my wax and add lubrication during the drying period.

[Zero_09]

Originally Posted by Otruba_843

The only time I use a Quick Detailer (QD) is for claying or removing bird crap. Optimum No-Rinse can be diluted to a clay lube and a QD and its super slick although it does smell like watered down skanky beer. Make sure to dilute it with distilled water. I use spray sealants/waxes which are QD's with light protection added after every wash to extend the durability of my wax and add lubrication during the drying period.

My ONR doesn't smell like that. It actually smells pretty good. Nothing like what you describe. ONR has had 2-3 revisions though so I might have the newer version.

[tmdals0213]

Originally Posted by Otruba_843

The only time I use a Quick Detailer (QD) is for claying or removing bird crap. Optimum No-Rinse can be diluted to a clay lube and a QD and its super slick although it does smell like watered down skanky beer. Make sure to dilute it with distilled water. I use spray sealants/waxes which are QD's with light protection added after every wash to extend the durability of my wax and add lubrication during the drying period.

Thank you Otruba!

[Otruba_843]

Originally Posted by Zero_09

My ONR doesn't smell like that. It actually smells pretty good. Nothing like what you describe. ONR has had 2-3 revisions though so I might have the newer version.

It does sort of smell like blue berries, but after using it for a while it begins to smell like old nasty beer. I don't know why but it does.

Originally Posted by tmdals0213

Thank you Otruba!

No problem, anytime.

[tmdals0213]

Originally Posted by Otruba_843

It does sort of smell like blue berries, but after using it for a while it begins to smell like old nasty beer. I don't know why but it does.

No problem, anytime.

Instead of doing a complete wash, is it okay to wash ONLY wheels in this fashion?

1. rinse wheels with just water to get big dirt particles off
2. use distilled water mixed with 70% isopropyl alcohol as a cleaner
3. rub away film gently
4. rinse again using sheet method and then dry off anything left over/ use leaf blower


also can you use products like kaboom to do any minor cleaning on the exterior of the car?

http://www.kaboomkaboom.com/products...e-cleaner.aspx

i know its a household product for tubs and stuff.. but would there be anything inside it that i shouldn't use on the 313 m wheels?

Thanks again Otruba

[Otruba_843]

Originally Posted by tmdals0213

Instead of doing a complete wash, is it okay to wash ONLY wheels in this fashion?

1. rinse wheels with just water to get big dirt particles off
2. use distilled water mixed with 70% isopropyl alcohol as a cleaner
3. rub away film gently
4. rinse again using sheet method and then dry off anything left over/ use leaf blower


also can you use products like kaboom to do any minor cleaning on the exterior of the car?

http://www.kaboomkaboom.com/products...e-cleaner.aspx

i know its a household product for tubs and stuff.. but would there be anything inside it that i shouldn't use on the 313 m wheels?

Thanks again Otruba

IPA shouldn't be used in that fashion on a car. Avoid all household products like the plague for detailing.

[vrooom23]

So I'm thinking about detailing my AW e92 myself because of swirls. But I have a question about excessive paint.

So i got my bumper repainted but on one part of the car theres excessive paint like a dried paint dripping down you know? can i polish that down to make it flat again with a polisher or what?

Thanks!