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Air Impact Wrench
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12-10-2012, 03:51 PM | #1 |
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Air Impact Wrench
Changing to the winter wheels on the X5 tonight and with a smallish compressor in the garage I reckon I should save a bit of muscle work and get an air impact wrench.
Don't want to spend too much and don't need a load of sockets as will really only be used for wheel changes. Anyone any recommendations or advice? To users of these I assume you set how tight you want it to go, don't want it wrecking any bolts by trying to go too tight or breaking them? Managed to get 3 wheels changed tonight, one had a puncture recently and was put back on by a tyre shop, they must have used mega tools to tighten it as I couldn't shift it at all and ended up cracking for wheel change socket. Its going back to tyre shop tomorrow for loosening but would like an air wrench for myself to do the job in future. |
12-10-2012, 04:17 PM | #2 |
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The other half got me a sip one from halfords a few years back. Came with about 5 or 6 sockets and an extension bar.
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12-11-2012, 01:23 AM | #3 |
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Check out the CFM requirement of the gun, to make sure your compressor is *man enough* for the gun.
Otherwise the compressor will be running all the time, and pressure will drop, and the gun will not supply the required torque. |
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12-11-2012, 02:08 AM | #4 |
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Get a mains one or a cordless one if you have money to burn!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DeWALT-DW2...item5aeb6ab94f
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12-11-2012, 03:32 AM | #5 | |
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Quote:
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12-11-2012, 04:01 AM | #7 |
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12-11-2012, 05:09 AM | #9 | |
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Yes, most tyre places use windy guns. I have compressor & windy. I never use it on my wheels either. It's a spider brace for me all day long. Wheels/studs aren't designed to be horsed up using an impact tool. You will never get a correct torque setting using an impact tool. If you want a quicker way of removing your wheels, use a proper wrench to loosen the bolts slightly (with the wheel on the floor, as you would normally), then, using a socket adaptor, use your favourite battery drill to zip them off & on. It will save you time getting the air line out and there will be no danger of over torquing or stripping the bolts. ALWAYS finish off with a proper tool, ideally a torque wrench - wheel nuts aren't taken up as tight as a lot of people think. There is a reason why car manufacturers supply weedy, short, wheel braces (when they have spare wheels) - apart from the cost - it's not to frustrate you at the side of the road as you try and undo a recalcitrant bolt - although they are very good at that - the main reason is that you cannot really overtighten the bolts when you put them back. Mike |
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12-11-2012, 05:13 AM | #10 |
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They might but they shouldn't. They should only spin them in with the gun and then use a torque wrench to tighten.
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12-11-2012, 06:57 AM | #11 |
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12-11-2012, 07:03 AM | #12 |
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Will check the compressor when I get home although its not up to the job properly but it's nice for getting the nuts off ball joints and we all know what a pain in the ass they can be.
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12-11-2012, 07:40 AM | #13 |
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My problem last night was that the nuts on one wheel were so tight that they wouldn't shift using my extending arm wheel brace, the socket actually cracked in the process. They had been tightened stupidly tight by a tyre shop and nothing was going to shift them except the reapplication of a windy gun.
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12-11-2012, 07:59 AM | #14 |
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600mm 1/2" breaker bar and a decent deep socket (Snap-On, Facom, Stahlwille etc.) will do the job.
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12-11-2012, 08:02 AM | #15 |
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Agreed. I split two 17mm sockets trying to put the winter wheels on Mrs Xenon's E87 last year. Went an bought a Snap-On Socket which moved it a piece of piss. Never buy cheap Draper tools again - quality ones last you a lifetime.
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12-11-2012, 08:34 AM | #16 |
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I'm with the mandraulic contingent here and wouldn't dream of using an air impact wrench on alloys.
I slacken and spin off/on with a spider, then tighten slowly with a torque wrench. Takes a bit more effort, but worth it for peace of mind. |
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12-11-2012, 09:14 AM | #17 | |
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I have had at least three locking wheel nuts mullered by twats who take no notice of a simple instruction NOT to use an air gun on them. The trouble is,that over time the use of airguns stresses the nut,and eventually they just disintegrate,usually when you're trying to change wheels,or have a breakdown due to a puncture. McGards are the worst,had two of those where the head has come completely off!
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12-11-2012, 09:40 AM | #18 |
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So is it possible to buy something like a Snap on 17mm socket on its own and where is best to buy? I just really need a socket to replace the one that snapped as the bar is fine.
Whats the cost of the socket? |
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12-11-2012, 09:58 AM | #19 |
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12-11-2012, 10:08 AM | #20 |
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I think I paid around a fiver for a Snap-On socket. Use a half-metre breaker bar and job done. Mind you, be careful this doesn't happen. Once I'd got the normal overtightend bolts out I moved on to the BMW locking bolts. And then this happened:
Mickey-Mouse metal and over-tighted with an impact gun. Right pain in the arse that would be on the hard shoulder of the M6.
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Current: 2021 G21 330i M-Sport Previous: 2018 A6 Avant S-Line MMI+, 2014 F31 320d M-Sport, 2013 F10 520d M-Sport, 2011 F10 530d M-Sport, 2008 320i M-Sport Coupe, 2002 325i, 2001 318i valvetronic, 1998 318i, 1996 525i, 1990 Porsche 944S2 |
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12-11-2012, 10:11 AM | #21 |
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Interesting thread, as they say, you learn something every day.
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12-11-2012, 10:24 AM | #22 |
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Where did you buy the Snap on socket Xenon?
Also do I need a "deep" socket or is the standard one fine? The bar I have is one of those with an inter-changeable socket where it is 17mm one end and 19mm the other. Are wheel bolts generally 17mm? can't remember if I have ever used the 19mm end or not but kinda think I have. |
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