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Official Louisiana chat thread (#2)
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11-05-2013, 02:23 AM | #2575 |
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Pleased to meet you too. Great video. Our laps looked pretty similar until you get to turn 4, then you really pull away from the speeds I was carrying. You're about 10mph faster going into and through the esses, and progressively quicker in 14/15/16. Nice run.
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11-06-2013, 10:38 AM | #2576 |
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Lesson from Sunday: bald street tires on the rear wheels = better rotation.
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11-08-2013, 10:10 PM | #2577 |
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^^ not bad at all man keep it up
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11-09-2013, 08:49 PM | #2578 |
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Thanks...having watched Ira few times I can see it's riddled with mistakes.
I bought a RSB, which will be installed by the PCA nov/dec weekend, and hopefully by Jan-NASA, I'll be ready for the slicks in my garage. That, plus better braking/throttle control, I think I can get to 2 min flat w/o a tune. |
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11-09-2013, 10:39 PM | #2579 | |
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11-10-2013, 03:07 PM | #2580 |
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Sorry, my bad...I have some toto R888s and some Hoosier R6s in my garage, so whichever are most appropriate to experiment with first: after 2-ish more events on streets...and a couple of Chump races I'm planning on doing in Feb/March. (W/Swampshack Maniacs, at Barber and NOLA)
Advice on these things is always appreciated. |
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11-10-2013, 05:57 PM | #2581 | |
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11-10-2013, 07:41 PM | #2582 |
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A 1.8L Honda Prelude...should be quite a change from HPDE.
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11-10-2013, 07:49 PM | #2583 |
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Haha it'll be a blast. It'll really teach you about your surroundings that's for sure.
You should notice a descent difference with the RSB but I don't think that car will drift on the street without some snow or serious entry speed. I am not sure of the suspension set up on that car but my moms old S4 and S5 and my cousins B5 S4 had this double wishbone upper control arm O.E set up ($$) and all the force/friction will eat those bearings alive if you try to spin the cars in a parking lot a bunch Did you find out any information on what you can do alignment wise with the stock suspension? If my suspicion is right and there is room for descent optimization, I see two seconds as the car sits with much more even tire wear vs. the sidewall/outside wear you were having (at the track) A stock mini-van with different brake fluid is ready for HPDE !! (no joke)
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Last edited by Onurleft; 11-12-2013 at 12:14 AM.. |
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11-12-2013, 05:08 PM | #2584 |
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Brake Pad advice requested
In August, my first brake upgrade was to switch to Hawk HPS+ up front, and HPS rears...the front pads are ready to be replaced already, and I wanted to find out what the more experienced community here could suggest as the next step in front pads. (I wouldn't mind getting a bit deeper into turns 1&13@NOLA.)
Caveat: this is my daily driver, but I warm them up, and don't mind some squeak. My rotors are ok, but I'll move to slotted once they go.
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11-12-2013, 05:55 PM | #2585 |
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Jay it's time for race pads front and rear, and you can't daily drive on these. They can fall a part at cold temps and leave pad deposit on the rotor which gives you that warped/shaking feeling in the wheel when you heat the rotors up and use them
Hawk DTC70/60 Performance Friction 08's Pagid RS219 (if I remember correctly) they are Yellow's Money saver? Hawk HT10 F/R You'll need to run race compound front and rear. People swear by all these so it's a matter of debate/preference. They all kick ass, and they all will last wayyy longer then a street/track pad. I could've guessed by your lap times it's time to step it up to something that can take the heat It's kind of annoying to change pads over every event, I did it for 6+ years but once you get the hang of popping the caliper off (I think Audi's require special tools) it becomes a pretty easy/not such a time consuming task. The alternative is to buy a big brake kit. On my StopTech's it takes 5 minutes to changes both fronts via removing the pad out of the top of the caliper with the wheel on. The stock rears take me roughly 30 minutes though.
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11-12-2013, 06:28 PM | #2586 | |
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11-12-2013, 09:13 PM | #2587 |
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My Z-rated rears are nearly 1/3rd-1/2 way gone after 1 weekend. My HP+ rears lasted 3 weekends, 1 at Road Atlanta but with hotter fronts so they weren't working as hard.
Don't use street pads. In your video you can tell when you transition to the brake pedal you leave some time before you go all in, probably because of fade/lack of feel/lack of confidence @ 125 mph down to 60ish MPH. Race pads will instill some much needed torque to the bottom of your foot to help you out here. I bet with better street tires and race pads you car will will do 130mph before you need to stop for 1
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Last edited by Onurleft; 11-12-2013 at 09:23 PM.. |
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11-13-2013, 05:44 PM | #2588 |
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My pads are pretty worn now, What you reccomend for both street+track? I'm tired of the steering wheel shaking at 60-100.
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11-13-2013, 09:18 PM | #2589 | |
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Also, race pads should not have any issue crumbling at low temp and they do not leave deposits unless they are at extremely high temperature, which won't be seen on the street. |
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11-14-2013, 12:13 AM | #2590 | ||
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The car will stop with any type of pad friction, despite 'where they work best' . What you see as 'optimal' for his application is what I think needs explaining. Quote:
If you plan on going fast, i'd recommend pads for the track and pads for the street. If you look at graphs good street pads offer a temperature range that's wide, but not optimal for the track for long because the sustained temperatures are at the limits or past the optimal temperature range of the pad (this is why you get reduced feel and fade). Race pads are always optimized for that temperature range and will always work better in those situations. It's a trade off. You can use street pads, and they will stop, but it's not ideal past a certain point
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Last edited by Onurleft; 11-14-2013 at 12:22 AM.. |
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11-14-2013, 12:34 AM | #2591 |
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They stop better than my stoptech street pads. That qualifies them to be as good as street pads in my eyes. What else needs explaining? I have done field research and that is my conclusion.
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11-14-2013, 12:41 AM | #2592 |
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Ok.
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11-14-2013, 12:41 AM | #2593 | |
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Do race pads stop better in their defined operating temperature? Of course. Did I have any issues stoping below the optimal operating temperature and did I notice any loss of pedal feel or stopping power when compared to stoptech street pads? No. Take my experience with race pads as you please. I still suggest performance friction z rated. |
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11-14-2013, 12:45 AM | #2594 | |
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Their great street pads. I got mine on Amazon for $62 shipped.
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Last edited by Onurleft; 11-14-2013 at 12:54 AM.. |
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11-14-2013, 12:53 AM | #2595 |
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That is completely beside the point. The a race pad will not be heated up by stoping from high speed once or even twice. In order for pad deposit to occur, the pads need to be hot enough to transfer the material to the rotor.
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11-14-2013, 12:57 AM | #2596 |
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Further backing my statements, here is a excerpt from a description of HT-10's:
The Hawk HT-10 Brake Pad is a step up from the Blue 9012 pads just like when you supersize a meal! They provide you with a better brake bite and will also give you better performance. These particular Hawk brake pads will deliver mild to high torque and allow you to easily have full control of your car. One reason these brakes are a popular choice is because of their high endurance during operation. They can operate correctly in temperatures between 300-1300 degrees! I rest my case. |
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