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OCC/Intake/Charpge-Pipe Installed - PCV Question
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03-09-2014, 03:48 PM | #1 |
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OCC/Intake/Charpge-Pipe Installed - PCV Question
I installed these things over the weekend:
Injen Intake ER Charge Pipe (Long) w/Tial Q BOV BMS OCC BMS Cowl Filters Everything went pretty well but during the removal of the stock PCV, the clip connected to the Flapper side (that I need) broke. I couldn't really find an easy way to fix it so I just cut the other end of the PCV that wasn't being re-used and fit a tube to it. Now the Flapper sits about 4" farther back than before. My idle is rough occasionally during warm-up, wondering if this is the cause. My first guess would've been a lose charge pipe/vacuum/intake but those are all snug. The thing that really bugs me is that it's only occasional. Runs smooth when driving, though. |
03-09-2014, 04:08 PM | #2 |
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The addition of an OCC shouldn't effect idle behavior, it's not changing the nature of the ventilation system, it just runs inline to capture vapors before they get dumped back into the rear turbo inlet. You could VTA if you really wanted to.
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03-09-2014, 04:52 PM | #3 | |
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So do I really need this flapper valve? |
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03-09-2014, 05:45 PM | #4 |
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Well you need something to connect the OCC tubing to the PCV vent. If you unplug it you'll VTA, which is fine but gnarly.
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03-09-2014, 09:11 PM | #5 |
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03-09-2014, 09:17 PM | #6 |
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I would just replace the part, the clips will break on the PCV connector at some point as well. Trust me.
http://www.rbturbo.com/rb-oem-pcv-vent-hose
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03-09-2014, 09:58 PM | #7 | |
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05-08-2014, 09:37 PM | #8 |
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Some folks are saying that since I have an OCC I can ditch this tube:
I'm thinking of removing it and adding an upgraded PCV valve. Any thoughts on that? |
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05-09-2014, 01:23 PM | #9 | |
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I installed the RB PCV valve and BMS OCC when I got my valves cleaned. |
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05-09-2014, 02:43 PM | #10 |
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I use a clamp on my vent hose, OEM doesn't seal at all.
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JB4 G5, Stage 3 LPFP, Stage 2 MOTIV PI, VM 6466 ST, Custom OCC W/ SS lines, ER FMIC, ER CP W/HKS BOV, M3 control arms, M3 guide rods, M3 upper links, M3 front & rear sway-bars, HPA rear toe arms, Wavetrac LSD, HPF Gen 2, DEFIV kit, KW clubsport, Delrin solid SF bushings, stoptech rotors, Rogue Tranny Mounts, 1M bumper, M3 CF hood, M3 fenders, M3 OEM sideskirts, Mtech rear bumper, CSL trunk, MORR VS8.2 rims 245/295
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05-09-2014, 03:01 PM | #11 |
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If you want, you can remove it. Shouldn't impact anything; it's literally just a tiny flapper in there that swings open. I think it's only there to prevent backflow, but it doesn't appear to seal all that well so I don't know if removing it would impact anything. I bought a new one when I installed my OCC since I broke a clip on the original flapper. Looking at how basic it is, I thought I should have just left it off.
It's not causing your rough idle though. I'd look more at the BOV or any other vacuum lines. |
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05-10-2014, 11:31 AM | #12 | ||
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Quote:
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05-10-2014, 12:03 PM | #14 | |
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Quote:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=875448
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JB4 G5, Stage 3 LPFP, Stage 2 MOTIV PI, VM 6466 ST, Custom OCC W/ SS lines, ER FMIC, ER CP W/HKS BOV, M3 control arms, M3 guide rods, M3 upper links, M3 front & rear sway-bars, HPA rear toe arms, Wavetrac LSD, HPF Gen 2, DEFIV kit, KW clubsport, Delrin solid SF bushings, stoptech rotors, Rogue Tranny Mounts, 1M bumper, M3 CF hood, M3 fenders, M3 OEM sideskirts, Mtech rear bumper, CSL trunk, MORR VS8.2 rims 245/295
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05-10-2014, 09:14 PM | #15 |
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I'm have the same thing going on, can u explain more which hose u pushed inside ? The one going to turbo inlet ??
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05-10-2014, 09:50 PM | #16 |
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So you removed the flapper valve and used a regular hose to the OCC and it caused a rough idle? Or you pulled the hose off entirely and it caused a rough idle?
The PCV valve install takes 10 minutes. I think I'm the one who mentioned that the tabs have to be shaved down. Basically the RB is a tiny bit bigger than the OEM so there are 4 tabs on the cap. I couldn't get the RB PCV in without taking a razor to the tabs. Literally just shaved a tiny bit off. I supposed you could force it on there, but it seemed easier to trim a tiny bit. If you bought the RB cap, you probably wouldn't need to do anything. Or if your OEM valve had a slightly looser tolerance, maybe no shaving is necessary. |
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05-10-2014, 10:19 PM | #17 | |
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See, I broke one of the clips during my OCC install...So I just cleanly broke off all the clips and fitted a rubber hose over the end of the hose where the clip used to be that fit up to the flapper portion and then jammed it over the PCV. When it comes loose, the ticking inside the engine is insane and the idle is shit. |
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05-10-2014, 10:26 PM | #18 | |
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Is this RB cap/PCV really worth it, though? Holy shit $120 for a PCV and a cap...seems a little...overpriced. |
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05-10-2014, 10:34 PM | #19 | |
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Just get the pcv valve, the cap isn't necessary unless yours is broken.
If you pulled the hose and didn't cap off the other end, there would be a vacuum leak I believe. That would cause a rough idle. But the pcv should be one way so if the other side was capped off, you could bent pcv to atmosphere. Quote:
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05-12-2014, 07:06 AM | #20 | |
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05-12-2014, 09:16 AM | #21 |
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05-12-2014, 09:58 AM | #22 |
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