[ibd2328]

After hours of long work here is what I ended with....
Suggestions of comments are appreciated...



Before(I know super dirty from wood).



Shots of During the install




After

[F80_M3llow]

Head unit not my cup of tea but the trunk setup looks great. Good job.

[1QuikWS6]

Trunk setup looks clean, but I'm guessing you won't be putting any more wood (or much of anything else) in the trunk with the amp sticking up unprotected, as well as the sub cones...

[ibd2328]

Originally Posted by 1QuikWS6

Trunk setup looks clean, but I'm guessing you won't be putting any more wood (or much of anything else) in the trunk with the amp sticking up unprotected, as well as the sub cones...

Actually the amp is mounted below the trunk floor(if you look closey no wires or anything is out). A piece of 1/8" lexan covers both the amp and fan(with holes for ventilation). I had to take the lexan out so the camera flash didnt bounce off it. So the trunk floor is still usable, however, the sub cones are no protected.

Any suggestions for that? Other than a baffle.

[bmw325i]

Get some grills http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...e-KTE-10G.html

[1QuikWS6]

Originally Posted by bmw325i

Get some grills http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...e-KTE-10G.html

My thoughts exactly, or a set that is of the bar style instead of mesh - whichever you prefer.

[kaigoss69]

Why SWS8 with a couple of subs in the trunk?

[ibd2328]

Originally Posted by kaigoss69

Why SWS8 with a couple of subs in the trunk?

I have the SWS 8" producing the mids i.e. using them as mid-drivers to produce frequencies between 150-800 hz. The small size, enclosed space, and location make them great for replicating that type of wave-length. As we all know the 4" door and rear parcel shelf comp's do no produce much below 100 hz. I have 500 hz. capacitors on each door mid-driver (these reduce bass and low frequencies so the voice coils can produce higher quality sound). In essence they help the crossovers become more accurate and allow the tweeters 15-20 watts nominal power to create the studio quality sound everyone loves.

I have 4" Focal Poly Glass in front and rears. Powered by a pdx F4 running around 65% gain(65 rms x 4 at 4). With LPF and HPF set accordingly.

I use to work for a high-end audio store (Crutchfield) so I know my way around most electronics and set ups.

[kaigoss69]

Originally Posted by ibd2328

I have the SWS 8" producing the mids i.e. using them as mid-drivers to produce frequencies between 150-800 hz. The small size, enclosed space, and location make them great for replicating that type of wave-length. As we all know the 4" door and rear parcel shelf comp's do no produce much below 100 hz. I have 500 hz. capacitors on each door mid-driver (these reduce bass and low frequencies so the voice coils can produce higher quality sound). In essence they help the crossovers become more accurate and allow the tweeters 15-20 watts nominal power to create the studio quality sound everyone loves.

I have 4" Focal Poly Glass in front and rears. Powered by a pdx F4 running around 65% gain(65 rms x 4 at 4). With LPF and HPF set accordingly.

I use to work for a high-end audio store (Crutchfield) so I know my way around most electronics and set ups.

OK, if it sounds good to you...(wink if you can stand some constructive criticism, otherwise - happy listening!)

[ibd2328]

Originally Posted by kaigoss69

OK, if it sounds good to you...(wink if you can stand some constructive criticism, otherwise - happy listening!)

Hope you didnt take that the wrong way, I wasn't trying to be smart or offensive. I just like changing set ups and alternating brands testing sound quality. The bimmer is just used to drive to work, so didn't want to go all out focal or morel.

[ibd2328]

Originally Posted by 1QuikWS6

My thoughts exactly, or a set that is of the bar style instead of mesh - whichever you prefer.

It may work for some other subs, but the way grills and rings mount on type r's isnt reliable. The rubber inseam comes off quite often during intense vibrations. Could put a dab of hot glue on the inside of the rubber mount but not really feeling that, and just seems tacky to use glue on an aftermarket stereo component.

Honestly, my car is just a vehicle to drive back and fourth to work (for gas milegae) so nothing is really ever in the trunk besides a backpack ocassionally.

any other suggestions? Could maybe use a grill that has mounts on the backside to connect into the actual screws holding the woofer in.

[kaigoss69]

Originally Posted by ibd2328

Hope you didnt take that the wrong way, I wasn't trying to be smart or offensive. I just like changing set ups and alternating brands testing sound quality. The bimmer is just used to drive to work, so didn't want to go all out focal or morel.

No it's cool. But the next time you feel like changing your set-up, please please consider getting rid of those capacitors or whatever they are and setting the crossovers correctly. Run the Focals down to about 150Hz and let the SWS take over from there. In the 100 - 800Hz range you are cutting out the "good" from the Focals and replacing it with the "suck" from Earthquake. Plus, you are pulling your stage down unnecessarily... While I have not heard your set-up, I guarantee you it will sound 100000000x better.

[bmw325i]

I know the ring that covers the screw holes on alpine subs isnt very good but the grills are alot better there are tabs that screw in and hold the grill in place. I honestly would leave the subs uncovered I've never used grills on any of my subs, but then I again I never use my trunk. I agree with kaigoss that your setup isnt as good as it could be your crossover between the underseats and mids should be around 150-200hz.

[ibd2328]

Originally Posted by kaigoss69

No it's cool. But the next time you feel like changing your set-up, please please consider getting rid of those capacitors or whatever they are and setting the crossovers correctly. Run the Focals down to about 150Hz and let the SWS take over from there. In the 100 - 800Hz range you are cutting out the "good" from the Focals and replacing it with the "suck" from Earthquake. Plus, you are pulling your stage down unnecessarily... While I have not heard your set-up, I guarantee you it will sound 100000000x better.

All crossovers have capacitors and inducers, caps go to the drivers and inducers go to the tweeters. They just store/use up different amounts of energy, hence separating your frequencies to send to the right component. Also, I have never heard or seen any 4" driver or coaxial reproduce frequencies below 200Hz accurately at mid to high volume. Sure the response is quick and great at those frequiences at low levels, however running 75% max current to most 4" speakers creates distortion and unwanted sounds. I could agree with you from maybe 3 or 400Hz up to 800Hz would be logical and the Focal's "good" spot. However, I listen to alot of hard rock and metal, and double kick drums at 150Hz on a 4" driver sounds terrible. The response is quick and accurate at super low volume levels, but at mid level they sound like factory audio components.

What type of components are you running?

[mathematics]

just to clarify, capacitors are high pass filters, and inductors are low-pass filters.

Originally Posted by ibd2328

All crossovers have capacitors and inducers, caps go to the drivers and inducers go to the tweeters. They just store/use up different amounts of energy, hence separating your frequencies to send to the right component. Also, I have never heard or seen any 4" driver or coaxial reproduce frequencies below 200Hz accurately at mid to high volume. Sure the response is quick and great at those frequiences at low levels, however running 75% max current to most 4" speakers creates distortion and unwanted sounds. I could agree with you from maybe 3 or 400Hz up to 800Hz would be logical and the Focal's "good" spot. However, I listen to alot of hard rock and metal, and double kick drums at 150Hz on a 4" driver sounds terrible. The response is quick and accurate at super low volume levels, but at mid level they sound like factory audio components.

What type of components are you running?

[ibd2328]

Originally Posted by mathematics

just to clarify, capacitors are high pass filters, and inductors are low-pass filters.

How ironic Mathematics. I actually teach freshman calc at WVU, so glad to have another mathematician/logicist in on the subject.

Exactly, caps usually go to the drivers while inducers(a wrapped coil) goes to the tweeters.

[kaigoss69]

Most of the energy in a kick drum note happens below 100hz. Yes there are elements going up into the midrange, but they do not contain much energy and therefore do not require much cone excursion. A 4" driver can easily handle 200hz even at max volume. plus, the 4" drivers will sound more accurate and snappy than a subwoofer.

[Eternal]

Just curious on the headunit install. Did you loose any functionality of anything else on the car by changing out the headunit? Did you use any kind of integration kit (technic), or just a plug and play harness then ran new wire to all of the speakers (doors) from the amps?