Hesitancy at low revs...still

Mustard3 · 07-26-2012, 07:36 AM

Just given mine a clean (sensor and contacts) without any expectations that it would make any difference whatsoever.

Shocked to say the power is back right through the rev range, most noticeable on light throttle acceleration. The drop-off in performance must have been very gradual over several months.

The question is what caused this deterioration? Maybe oil mist contamination of the sensor, if so then it's going to continue to happen unless I can cure the source of contamination.

Would a new sensor give a further improvement over cleaning the old one I wonder.

335DEE · 07-27-2012, 07:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimmylad

'twas yellow. Couldn't decide how it worked though. Seemed to have a tiny ball thing in the yellow plastic surround.

It's definitely a temperature sensor .. no question about it.
The ball in the middle is a thermistor

daveleach · 07-31-2012, 06:24 AM

just finished!!!!!!

cleared codes and they have gone!!!!!!

mistryn · 07-31-2012, 06:44 AM

nice one, how does the car feel? how long did it take you to do?

daveleach · 07-31-2012, 10:00 AM

The car feels transformed!
Don't think it's ever felt this quick.
Power delivery is smoother and more consistent.
Lower down pick up had also improved.
And for some strange reason the brake pedal feels stiffer too!(vacuum better??)
Took me about 3 hours in total. And then about 30 mins to clear all codes etc.

mistryn · 07-31-2012, 02:26 PM

Good to hear Dave, im glad you got your sorted.

I can too finally say mine is sorted, my car went into Rybrook Warwick yesterday as oil was leaking from the manifold/swirlflaps area. I asked them to check that out and also this hesitancy issue. Picked it up today and manifold replaced and 2x new pressure converters alongside with new bracket.

Drive home, the car felt different. There is no hesitancy at all it just pulls and pulls like it used to. I too have noticed the gear changes were a lot smoother/crisper again I dont know if that because of better vaccum pressure. I can only presume my old converters were on their way out. the SA at the dealer did say these pressure converters were a modified version so I dont know if they changed the design or the old ones had an issue. But all is well now and one happy 335d owner

i was so glad to give the courtesy car back, once you own a x35d engine you just get used to the power

335DEE · 07-31-2012, 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mistryn

Good to hear Dave, im glad you got your sorted.

I can too finally say mine is sorted, my car went into Rybrook Warwick yesterday as oil was leaking from the manifold/swirlflaps area. I asked them to check that out and also this hesitancy issue. Picked it up today and manifold replaced and 2x new pressure converters alongside with new bracket.

Drive home, the car felt different. There is no hesitancy at all it just pulls and pulls like it used to. I too have noticed the gear changes were a lot smoother/crisper again I dont know if that because of better vaccum pressure. I can only presume my old converters were on their way out. the SA at the dealer did say these pressure converters were a modified version so I dont know if they changed the design or the old ones had an issue. But all is well now and one happy 335d owner

i was so glad to give the courtesy car back, once you own a x35d engine you just get used to the power

did you ask for the manifold back to see what state it was in or if there were cracks in it or anything like that , would be helpful to know

How much was the manifold fitted if you don't mind sayin

Glad it's sorted for you , been a long time !

mistryn · 07-31-2012, 02:58 PM

It was done under warranty so I didnt ask for it back. i did ask how much the manifold would be on its own and was told just shy of £400.

Mine was leaking around the seal on cylinder number 3 swirflap area, I presumed it was one of the orange rubber gaskets that had persished and thought they would take it off and replace that. i didnt expect them to replace the whole manifold.

Tim - you will have a pm from me

mistryn · 07-31-2012, 03:04 PM

oh also i took my egr valve off few weeks ago and took a pic of the inlet manifold. imo there was quite a bit of oil in the manifold so not sure if its normal

Also another thing the SA advised was to change the il breather pipe as this could be due to the leak but I had already changed this few months back. Even though I have a new style vortex breather he said it is advised to change them at intervals

335DEE · 07-31-2012, 03:26 PM

How did you manage to get that off , I tried at the weekend and just couldnt get anywhere near the bottom right hand bolt ! So had to give up !

Have you got the part number handy for the breather .. I best change that too

mistryn · 07-31-2012, 04:03 PM

I took the 3 bolts off the flap thing and removed that and used a extension bar to remove the bottom right. if you want me to give you a hand let me know as i dont mind

Mustard3 · 08-01-2012, 02:14 AM

Mistryn, can you tell yet if this work has resolved the (intermittent) whine noise you were getting?

mistryn · 08-01-2012, 03:11 AM

I also mentioned this to the dealer when it was in, the guy came out and had a look at the red boost pipe. I told him I had it replaced a while back but had light misting of oil. He had a look and rang me back in the day to say they cant take it off/replace seals as its not covered under warranty and i would have to contribute to it. I said no thanks but he did say he checked the connections and cleaned it off for me. One of the vac pipes (blue ones) was also replaced he did mention and that noise has gone.
I will try to listen for it again from cold later on and will report back

briers · 08-01-2012, 04:08 AM

Interesting thread, apart from the vac lines, actuators and boost hose what else have you guys changed or been advised to change for continued good running?

I've heard breather pipe mentioned, along with cleaning sensors from some things and of course the main and egr thermostats.

I like to keep things running in good condition, could you elaborate on the last few points please. I would be interesting in getting these bits done.

mistryn · 08-01-2012, 04:32 AM

Giving the egr a clean imo will help
Oil breather even if you have the newer vortex type as i was advised its a servicable item
Vac lines
Regular oil changes imo every 10k
Air filter changes again i would not go for 60k intervals
Can of bg244 every 20k miles

I have been reading about teraclean but still not comvinced

mistryn · 08-01-2012, 04:36 AM

Dave just out of interest did you replace the red vac with another red vac or black?

08-01-2012, 04:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mistryn

It was done under warranty so I didnt ask for it back. i did ask how much the manifold would be on its own and was told just shy of £400.

hey mistryn. i see you are investing a load of money into your car by changing many things on your car, but reading that, this 335d has many faults and is not good to keep once you are above 100k mil, which is pity. how much have you invested already?

i had a crash, one young lad put reverse on lights and bumped into my front, but covered by insurance, but still...at least, i am going to have a chance to check all the hoses and vacuum pipes.

BTW, that diagnostic thing that BMW has, is not very much of a help, unless they gonna measure vacuum isolation and other things, that may help to analyze the fault quicker and without spending too much money on unnecessary things...
My car is for sale for 3 weeks already and I have it about 3 months, but I would love to get rid of it ASAP, since new faults appear almost every day(lights, etc)....pity nobody is even calling

daveleach · 08-01-2012, 06:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mistryn

Dave just out of interest did you replace the red vac with another red vac or black?

I used black all round. The red hose is the same bore size as the black.
There is also a 1 blue hose. That runs from the left hand outlet of the rear pressure converter to the large metal actuator that controls the rod. I used lack here also

mistryn · 08-01-2012, 06:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Martin80k

hey mistryn. i see you are investing a load of money into your car by changing many things on your car, but reading that, this 335d has many faults and is not good to keep once you are above 100k mil, which is pity. how much have you invested already?

i had a crash, one young lad put reverse on lights and bumped into my front, but covered by insurance, but still...at least, i am going to have a chance to check all the hoses and vacuum pipes.

BTW, that diagnostic thing that BMW has, is not very much of a help, unless they gonna measure vacuum isolation and other things, that may help to analyze the fault quicker and without spending too much money on unnecessary things...
My car is for sale for 3 weeks already and I have it about 3 months, but I would love to get rid of it ASAP, since new faults appear almost every day(lights, etc)....pity nobody is even calling

Not necessarily imo I would say this has been a problem'atic 335d. When I bought a high milege car I knew in the back of my mind certain things would need replacing so factored that into mind. One could see investing a lot of time/money and think whether it is worthwhile. I plan to keep my car for many years so I think its investment worthwhile to replace parts. I do try to keep costs down by trying to do much work myself as possible so that helps.

I wouold disagree with you on not to keep cars past 100k, if they have been maintained well I dont see any problems them going up to the 200k mark. Bearing in mind you will have to spend additional money to replace certain parts

So far till date the most expensive part I have had to replace was-
red turbo boost pipe at £155.
Oil breather @£40 (servicable item)
MAP sensor/air temp sensor - £40-
EGR stat - £21
Main thermostat - £34
vac pipes couple of quid

Not bad for a car that is on 106k miles and not had anything else replaced in the past. Way I see it is most of the stuff replaced is wear and tear items. I think the manifold oil leak would not have happened if the oil breather was a servicable item and not as BMW taken it off and said its a lifetime part.

all above work I did myself so I saved a fair bit in labour charge. I do admit I may not have had to change the map/air sensors because the pc were on their way out and that caused the problem of the hesitancy

Manifold/pressure converters were done under warranty

For now I think I am ok, only servicable items need doing.

Its a shame that you have not resolved yours and is up for sale. all I can say with vac leaks is trial and error and can be a pain to resolve. In the end I just thought I bite the bullet and take it to a dealer as imo I had done much investigation and was no longer prepared to repalcing parts that did not need replacing.

Quote:

Originally Posted by daveleach

I used black all round. The red hose is the same bore size as the black.
There is also a 1 blue hose. That runs from the left hand outlet of the rear pressure converter to the large metal actuator that controls the rod. I used lack here also

Thanks Dave, I did not know whether the different colours had a specific size but if they are all the same bore then makes sense just to use black all round.

08-10-2012, 11:38 AM

mistryn, oh ok. I thought I saw you post some more repairs and charges. What's more to come however, is that my car is in the authorized dealer service and I got a call that the list of faults is pretty long, so it was really a bad buy. They told me that seals on red turbo hose are bad, then all the vacuum hoses needs to be changed (i doubt that every hose has gone though), than air intake manifold is cracked and is leaking oil (just manifold is 430 EUR), then transmission is leaking as well, so it would need to be replaced (cover cost 150 EUR), and they changed the oil for 220 EUR and also Fuel Filter for 70 EUR.
They will send me the complete list on Monday, and I am thinking, whether let them do it, or what to do, or whether also suggest them to change the oil breather (however, I don't know the name is Slovak language for it, anyone knows part number?)
I am also thinking, whether to tell them to check EGR and those Acutators (Solenoids)

I bought this car with 124000km on clock for 21,700 EUR, and seller told me it is 2007, and when we sign the sale agreement, he wrote it is 11/2006, I was surprised but excited about the car,,,and now this list of faults and I feel know like a dub ass buying such an expensive car in such a bad state.

Bottom line, it was in a garage, because somebody bumped to the front and they replaced the front bumper and also straighten the bonnet that was slightly folded. All paid by insurance.

mistryn · 08-10-2012, 03:12 PM

Again Martin I am sorry to hear you have got a long list of codes, if you do get a chance post them up here and will try to see if I can advise.

The seals on the red boost pipe can be changed over but I am not sure how the garage network works in your country. The 2 seals required are the part numbers but I am basing this on a E92 2006 mode so please do check on realoem

11618506786
11617791470
Items 2 & 3
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...88&hg=11&fg=40

If you are mechanically minded then it is possible to DIY - brief summary - jack car up on axle stands - remove air box - remove under tray - unclip lower part of hose that goes onto the intercooler - release the clip from the turbo side (can be a pain to release) replace seals and put back together. I would try this route before going to extent of replacing the whole pipe

Vaccuum hose - without seeing condition cant really comment whether to replace all or some. If you can get them all replaced. for eg on mine only 2 hoses were perished so only replaced them, the others looked fine and to avoid hassle of removing various parts I left them. Over here you can get similar 3.5mm vacuum hose for £3.50 per metre. Maybe try auto shops near you? It is not hard to replace some of them, just involves taking covers off for access and nimble fingers to get into various places

The manifold, I have read couple of cases where they have cracked but more cases I have read outweigh the former in that the seal where the swirl flaps are (if you look directly at each cylinder) you will see a orange gasket. These tend to fail and cause oil to leak. When mine went into the dealer for this they automatically replaced the manifold as it was a warranty job. However it is possible to buy the gaskets individually and replace even though BMW might tell you they dont sell them and they come with the manifold
Item no 2
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...52&hg=11&fg=40

Transmision leaking oil, on higher milege cars this is quite known I think its to do with the heat and cooling which causes slight warping in the sump pan - this is relativily a easy fix with a new sump but the killer is the cost of the gearbox oil. I have seen on the zf website where they do kits for around £250 mark

Oil breather part is no 8
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...49&hg=11&fg=15
11127809512

IMO the first thing I would do is change the oil breather pipe, the leak around the manifold on my car was caused by blocked breather pipe. soon after I changed it the leak did get less so my mechanic adivsed this first

The pressure convertors you wont know unless it comes up as fault on the diagnostic. there is a thread somewhere here where a memeber posted to check the actuator valve.

EGR is also easy to checkm while you have the engine cover off take off the charge pipe and shine a torch down the inside and will give you a indication. on mine it was 106k miles and wasnt too bad. let me know if you want to know how to take this off

hope this helps

08-19-2012, 09:56 AM

mistryn you are as helpful as ever, and I really appreciate this. I saw it earlier, but was on holiday. the car is still at the shop, and i have decided to tell them to only change the clips on the red hose and also to check the vacuum pipes for pressure, otherwise not replacing them, and if so, I will ask the old one to hand in to me, to assess whether it was or wasn't perished, but they can also give me some other pipe from other car, since in Slovakia people are just lying, and this is killing me. I am also Slovakian btw.

I will not let them change the whole manifold gasket intake, since I also plan to order that swirl flap blanket kit from here: http://www.swirlflaps.co.uk/what-are-swirl-flaps.html, and also, do you think, it can have some long term effects on the car when there is a bit of oil leak, since i don't think, it is a major issue, or is it? and to pay 600 for it seems a lot to me...and the same applies for that gearbox, since they also want to replace the cover, which is also strange, since I guess, they can only change the bit of paper that is in between, I dont know how to say that in English.

On top of that, I will suggest to change the oil breather, and also I am thinking about that boost pressure sensor, but honestly, I just wanna restore the power it had and nothing else bothers me for now, especially few drops of oil

We'll see how the car goes after that, whether it will bring the power back...so I'll keep you posted.

07-26-2012, 07:36 AM	#45
Mustard3 Lieutenant 99 Rep 403 Posts Drives: F31 340i Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: UK iTrader: (1)	Just given mine a clean (sensor and contacts) without any expectations that it would make any difference whatsoever. Shocked to say the power is back right through the rev range, most noticeable on light throttle acceleration. The drop-off in performance must have been very gradual over several months. The question is what caused this deterioration? Maybe oil mist contamination of the sensor, if so then it's going to continue to happen unless I can cure the source of contamination. Would a new sensor give a further improvement over cleaning the old one I wonder.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

07-31-2012, 06:24 AM	#47
daveleach First Lieutenant 26 Rep 306 Posts Drives: 335d Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: berks iTrader: (0)	just finished!!!!!! cleared codes and they have gone!!!!!!
	Appreciate 0 Quote

07-31-2012, 06:44 AM	#48
mistryn Colonel 147 Rep 2,048 Posts Drives: BMW 335D Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Mids iTrader: (8)	nice one, how does the car feel? how long did it take you to do?
	Appreciate 0 Quote

07-31-2012, 10:00 AM	#49
daveleach First Lieutenant 26 Rep 306 Posts Drives: 335d Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: berks iTrader: (0)	The car feels transformed! Don't think it's ever felt this quick. Power delivery is smoother and more consistent. Lower down pick up had also improved. And for some strange reason the brake pedal feels stiffer too!(vacuum better??) Took me about 3 hours in total. And then about 30 mins to clear all codes etc.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

07-31-2012, 02:26 PM	#50
mistryn Colonel 147 Rep 2,048 Posts Drives: BMW 335D Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Mids iTrader: (8)	Good to hear Dave, im glad you got your sorted. I can too finally say mine is sorted, my car went into Rybrook Warwick yesterday as oil was leaking from the manifold/swirlflaps area. I asked them to check that out and also this hesitancy issue. Picked it up today and manifold replaced and 2x new pressure converters alongside with new bracket. Drive home, the car felt different. There is no hesitancy at all it just pulls and pulls like it used to. I too have noticed the gear changes were a lot smoother/crisper again I dont know if that because of better vaccum pressure. I can only presume my old converters were on their way out. the SA at the dealer did say these pressure converters were a modified version so I dont know if they changed the design or the old ones had an issue. But all is well now and one happy 335d owner i was so glad to give the courtesy car back, once you own a x35d engine you just get used to the power
	Appreciate 0 Quote

07-31-2012, 02:58 PM	#52
mistryn Colonel 147 Rep 2,048 Posts Drives: BMW 335D Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Mids iTrader: (8)	It was done under warranty so I didnt ask for it back. i did ask how much the manifold would be on its own and was told just shy of £400. Mine was leaking around the seal on cylinder number 3 swirflap area, I presumed it was one of the orange rubber gaskets that had persished and thought they would take it off and replace that. i didnt expect them to replace the whole manifold. Tim - you will have a pm from me
	Appreciate 0 Quote

07-31-2012, 03:04 PM	#53
mistryn Colonel 147 Rep 2,048 Posts Drives: BMW 335D Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Mids iTrader: (8)	oh also i took my egr valve off few weeks ago and took a pic of the inlet manifold. imo there was quite a bit of oil in the manifold so not sure if its normal Also another thing the SA advised was to change the il breather pipe as this could be due to the leak but I had already changed this few months back. Even though I have a new style vortex breather he said it is advised to change them at intervals
	Appreciate 0 Quote

07-31-2012, 03:26 PM	#54
335DEE Captain 38 Rep 735 Posts Drives: M3 DCT Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: England iTrader: (1)	How did you manage to get that off , I tried at the weekend and just couldnt get anywhere near the bottom right hand bolt ! So had to give up ! Have you got the part number handy for the breather .. I best change that too
	Appreciate 0 Quote

07-31-2012, 04:03 PM	#55
mistryn Colonel 147 Rep 2,048 Posts Drives: BMW 335D Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Mids iTrader: (8)	I took the 3 bolts off the flap thing and removed that and used a extension bar to remove the bottom right. if you want me to give you a hand let me know as i dont mind
	Appreciate 0 Quote

08-01-2012, 02:14 AM	#56
Mustard3 Lieutenant 99 Rep 403 Posts Drives: F31 340i Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: UK iTrader: (1)	Mistryn, can you tell yet if this work has resolved the (intermittent) whine noise you were getting?
	Appreciate 0 Quote

08-01-2012, 03:11 AM	#57
mistryn Colonel 147 Rep 2,048 Posts Drives: BMW 335D Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Mids iTrader: (8)	I also mentioned this to the dealer when it was in, the guy came out and had a look at the red boost pipe. I told him I had it replaced a while back but had light misting of oil. He had a look and rang me back in the day to say they cant take it off/replace seals as its not covered under warranty and i would have to contribute to it. I said no thanks but he did say he checked the connections and cleaned it off for me. One of the vac pipes (blue ones) was also replaced he did mention and that noise has gone. I will try to listen for it again from cold later on and will report back
	Appreciate 0 Quote

08-01-2012, 04:08 AM	#58
briers Ben 62 Rep 1,992 Posts Drives: Tesla p85d Join Date: May 2010 Location: Midlands,UK iTrader: (0)	Interesting thread, apart from the vac lines, actuators and boost hose what else have you guys changed or been advised to change for continued good running? I've heard breather pipe mentioned, along with cleaning sensors from some things and of course the main and egr thermostats. I like to keep things running in good condition, could you elaborate on the last few points please. I would be interesting in getting these bits done.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

08-01-2012, 04:32 AM	#59
mistryn Colonel 147 Rep 2,048 Posts Drives: BMW 335D Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Mids iTrader: (8)	Giving the egr a clean imo will help Oil breather even if you have the newer vortex type as i was advised its a servicable item Vac lines Regular oil changes imo every 10k Air filter changes again i would not go for 60k intervals Can of bg244 every 20k miles I have been reading about teraclean but still not comvinced
	Appreciate 0 Quote

08-01-2012, 04:36 AM	#60
mistryn Colonel 147 Rep 2,048 Posts Drives: BMW 335D Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Mids iTrader: (8)	Dave just out of interest did you replace the red vac with another red vac or black?
	Appreciate 0 Quote

08-10-2012, 11:38 AM	#64
Martin80k Guest 0 Rep n/a Posts Drives:	mistryn, oh ok. I thought I saw you post some more repairs and charges. What's more to come however, is that my car is in the authorized dealer service and I got a call that the list of faults is pretty long, so it was really a bad buy. They told me that seals on red turbo hose are bad, then all the vacuum hoses needs to be changed (i doubt that every hose has gone though), than air intake manifold is cracked and is leaking oil (just manifold is 430 EUR), then transmission is leaking as well, so it would need to be replaced (cover cost 150 EUR), and they changed the oil for 220 EUR and also Fuel Filter for 70 EUR. They will send me the complete list on Monday, and I am thinking, whether let them do it, or what to do, or whether also suggest them to change the oil breather (however, I don't know the name is Slovak language for it, anyone knows part number?) I am also thinking, whether to tell them to check EGR and those Acutators (Solenoids) I bought this car with 124000km on clock for 21,700 EUR, and seller told me it is 2007, and when we sign the sale agreement, he wrote it is 11/2006, I was surprised but excited about the car,,,and now this list of faults and I feel know like a dub ass buying such an expensive car in such a bad state. Bottom line, it was in a garage, because somebody bumped to the front and they replaced the front bumper and also straighten the bonnet that was slightly folded. All paid by insurance.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

08-10-2012, 03:12 PM	#65
mistryn Colonel 147 Rep 2,048 Posts Drives: BMW 335D Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Mids iTrader: (8)	Again Martin I am sorry to hear you have got a long list of codes, if you do get a chance post them up here and will try to see if I can advise. The seals on the red boost pipe can be changed over but I am not sure how the garage network works in your country. The 2 seals required are the part numbers but I am basing this on a E92 2006 mode so please do check on realoem 11618506786 11617791470 Items 2 & 3 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...88&hg=11&fg=40 If you are mechanically minded then it is possible to DIY - brief summary - jack car up on axle stands - remove air box - remove under tray - unclip lower part of hose that goes onto the intercooler - release the clip from the turbo side (can be a pain to release) replace seals and put back together. I would try this route before going to extent of replacing the whole pipe Vaccuum hose - without seeing condition cant really comment whether to replace all or some. If you can get them all replaced. for eg on mine only 2 hoses were perished so only replaced them, the others looked fine and to avoid hassle of removing various parts I left them. Over here you can get similar 3.5mm vacuum hose for £3.50 per metre. Maybe try auto shops near you? It is not hard to replace some of them, just involves taking covers off for access and nimble fingers to get into various places The manifold, I have read couple of cases where they have cracked but more cases I have read outweigh the former in that the seal where the swirl flaps are (if you look directly at each cylinder) you will see a orange gasket. These tend to fail and cause oil to leak. When mine went into the dealer for this they automatically replaced the manifold as it was a warranty job. However it is possible to buy the gaskets individually and replace even though BMW might tell you they dont sell them and they come with the manifold Item no 2 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...52&hg=11&fg=40 Transmision leaking oil, on higher milege cars this is quite known I think its to do with the heat and cooling which causes slight warping in the sump pan - this is relativily a easy fix with a new sump but the killer is the cost of the gearbox oil. I have seen on the zf website where they do kits for around £250 mark Oil breather part is no 8 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...49&hg=11&fg=15 11127809512 IMO the first thing I would do is change the oil breather pipe, the leak around the manifold on my car was caused by blocked breather pipe. soon after I changed it the leak did get less so my mechanic adivsed this first The pressure convertors you wont know unless it comes up as fault on the diagnostic. there is a thread somewhere here where a memeber posted to check the actuator valve. EGR is also easy to checkm while you have the engine cover off take off the charge pipe and shine a torch down the inside and will give you a indication. on mine it was 106k miles and wasnt too bad. let me know if you want to know how to take this off hope this helps
	Appreciate 0 Quote

08-19-2012, 09:56 AM	#66
Martin80k Guest 0 Rep n/a Posts Drives:	mistryn you are as helpful as ever, and I really appreciate this. I saw it earlier, but was on holiday. the car is still at the shop, and i have decided to tell them to only change the clips on the red hose and also to check the vacuum pipes for pressure, otherwise not replacing them, and if so, I will ask the old one to hand in to me, to assess whether it was or wasn't perished, but they can also give me some other pipe from other car, since in Slovakia people are just lying, and this is killing me. I am also Slovakian btw. I will not let them change the whole manifold gasket intake, since I also plan to order that swirl flap blanket kit from here: http://www.swirlflaps.co.uk/what-are-swirl-flaps.html, and also, do you think, it can have some long term effects on the car when there is a bit of oil leak, since i don't think, it is a major issue, or is it? and to pay 600 for it seems a lot to me...and the same applies for that gearbox, since they also want to replace the cover, which is also strange, since I guess, they can only change the bit of paper that is in between, I dont know how to say that in English. On top of that, I will suggest to change the oil breather, and also I am thinking about that boost pressure sensor, but honestly, I just wanna restore the power it had and nothing else bothers me for now, especially few drops of oil We'll see how the car goes after that, whether it will bring the power back...so I'll keep you posted.
	Appreciate 0 Quote