[Ph3n0m]

I recently found out my third party warranty ran out and I'm at a bit of a crossroads. I was getting 30ff and the dealer ran a vacuum test showing the leak it at the turbo. They recommended changing the diverter valves but stated the real issue after that may simply be the turbos and they want $4300 for that. I have 95k miles on this 2007 335i. I just replaced the brakes this summer and also go new tires this stop at the dealer.

I only get my half engine light under >1/4 throttle in 5th or 6th gear. I have no other issues. The suspension could use some tightening up but it drives fine. I had a jb4 on it but after a stop at the dealer I took it off to have a warranty claim performed last summer.

I can either keep it and run it until I have a real issue, I still owe on this car however. Or I can ditch it now at a bit of a loss and get something else, but I do love this car and how it drives over just about anything else I've owned. Or lastly I could go in for a turbo swap now and upgrade in some way/shape/form. I'm proficient with tools so I think I could perform the swap myself, but I'd be slow. I do have access to another car for now. I don't really have the money as I just gave the deal $2100 for the work performed this trip. But I could have the money very soon.

Thoughts? If I upgrade the turbos, add some boltons, etc. will I run into some problems simply because I'm at 95k miles? I did have the HPFP replaced last summer but that doesn't mean much. I probably need new plugs, injectors, and a few other things for a swap. How much would I be looking at in total? ~$4000? I think 450hp would make me a really happy camper. Maybe 500. I don't really want to run meth or e85 if I don't have to. I had some consistency issues with the e85 with the jb4. Maybe those can be remedied as well.

Any input is appreciated. This is my DD, and it does snow up here so that's worth considering. I can manage the hp though, should I decide to increase.

[kmx]

Im in the same boat as you mate, subbing to this thread.

[dreptroman]

Just add injectors, hpfp, vacuum solenoids, coils pack, transmission oil change, wallnut blast, suspenssion refresh and waterpump. That s what i have had to do in 1 year at aprox 100k miles with a MHD Flash installed. Not very cheap but nothing as expensive as a newer 350hp car )

[Jklad]

It doesn't sound like you can afford the maintenance on this car at it's current mileage. Unless you can wrench yourself or have someone to do work for you in the side, you should probobly get out now.

[Chris@VargasTurboTech]

To me, this platform offers a tremendous amount of performance value for the dollar, all things considered. That said, if you can't or don't want to do your own work, things can get expensive quickly.

[Ph3n0m]

That's right, I can't afford bmw dealer maintenance. I can do work myself, but if I'll be down multiple times a year for the life of the car it'll just make me sad.

Chris - title agree about the potential. How reliable do you think it can be from 100k up with fbo, turbos, and tune? Running 93. I still need this to be my dd

[rosullivan04]

It's a wonderful platform for modifications... but it's also unreliable and expensive to maintain. The problem I see in the community is you can get these cars on the cheap now. However, people buy them and the first time something expensive breaks they end up having a lawn ornament because of how much something innocuous as a water pump costs to fix, as an example. If you don't have a comfortable amount of disposable income you might be best served going to something that isn't quite so costly to keep up, IMO. If you have a lot of disposable income then it would be worthwhile staying.

Light mods don't seem to affect the reliability too drastically from my experience, as long as you address all the common things like spark plugs every 15K miles 'modded', healthy turbos, good coils, good injectors, fuel pumps, and constant follow-ups on logs while running your tune.

[Chris@VargasTurboTech]

Originally Posted by Ph3n0m

That's right, I can't afford bmw dealer maintenance. I can do work myself, but if I'll be down multiple times a year for the life of the car it'll just make me sad.

Chris - title agree about the potential. How reliable do you think it can be from 100k up with fbo, turbos, and tune? Running 93. I still need this to be my dd

Out of warranty German cars are not the best idea for reliability. Honestly the best thing I did for my BMW is buy a Ford. I picked up a super cheap fleet Focus so that I have a second beater when mine is down. I fought the idea of a highly modified car as a DD is stupid for a long time then I realized how much money I was wasting when something small went and I couldn't fix it myself (time/parts/etc.). Having a second vehicle decreases the stress level 100x. Even if it's just a 4k civic sitting around.

I upgraded turbos at 100k miles (before working for VTT), and thrashed the every loving bajezus out of it for 30k miles on a conservative ~560ish whp tune. Now the car is old and cranky and I need to do a ton of maintenance (bushings/etc.). Since I have slowly replaced so many parts and kept my total power reasonable, maintenance hasn't been too bad. I'm still on whatever injectors came with the car with 50k on it. Original HPFP. Third waterpump. Second alternator. I think if you stay conservative with your hardware (i.e. don't max the shit out of your turbos, OEM, aftermarket, ours, or otherwise) and you'll get more life out of things -common sense really.

I have long since thought that these things are a hoot at 5-600 whp and not too bad for reliability if you have a nice conservative tune. Sometimes the difference between a tune you can thrash on and a ragged edge tune is only 20 whp or so.

Finally, I am a fan of ethanol vs pump gas for a few reasons, obviously power potential is huge, but cooler EGT's and drastically increased knock resistance is another one. As long as you're conservative... should be ok. If you're dead set on pump gas I'd probably get an aggressive pump gas tune and use methanol to add cooling, repeatability, and a large factor of safety. I.e. don't use meth to make up for crappy fuel.

Chris

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Ph3n0m

I recently found out my third party warranty ran out and I'm at a bit of a crossroads. I was getting 30ff and the dealer ran a vacuum test showing the leak it at the turbo. They recommended changing the diverter valves but stated the real issue after that may simply be the turbos and they want $4300 for that. I have 95k miles on this 2007 335i. I just replaced the brakes this summer and also go new tires this stop at the dealer.

I only get my half engine light under >1/4 throttle in 5th or 6th gear. I have no other issues. The suspension could use some tightening up but it drives fine. I had a jb4 on it but after a stop at the dealer I took it off to have a warranty claim performed last summer.

I can either keep it and run it until I have a real issue, I still owe on this car however. Or I can ditch it now at a bit of a loss and get something else, but I do love this car and how it drives over just about anything else I've owned. Or lastly I could go in for a turbo swap now and upgrade in some way/shape/form. I'm proficient with tools so I think I could perform the swap myself, but I'd be slow. I do have access to another car for now. I don't really have the money as I just gave the deal $2100 for the work performed this trip. But I could have the money very soon.

Thoughts? If I upgrade the turbos, add some boltons, etc. will I run into some problems simply because I'm at 95k miles? I did have the HPFP replaced last summer but that doesn't mean much. I probably need new plugs, injectors, and a few other things for a swap. How much would I be looking at in total? ~$4000? I think 450hp would make me a really happy camper. Maybe 500. I don't really want to run meth or e85 if I don't have to. I had some consistency issues with the e85 with the jb4. Maybe those can be remedied as well.

Any input is appreciated. This is my DD, and it does snow up here so that's worth considering. I can manage the hp though, should I decide to increase.

I think you could either A) take the turbos out and send them to Turbo Lab of America and have them refurbish them for about $1200. They can fix the waste gate rattle and add a bigger turbine.

Or

B) get VVTO upgraded turbo's from ECS tuning

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-vargas-t...t-n54-stk-3kt/

[Ph3n0m]

I looked at some other cars, the only real option I have is to fix this or get a truck and take my dad's project, which would take me forever. I think I can find something for winter too and be fine.

Next question is what do I need to support upgraded turbos? I will likely start calling and asking. Now that I've been told they're bad I hear the whine for sure.

[Chris@VargasTurboTech]

Originally Posted by Ph3n0m

Next question is what do I need to support upgraded turbos? I will likely start calling and asking. Now that I've been told they're bad I hear the whine for sure.

Generally full bolt on is required, meaning upgraded intake, turbo inlets, FMIC, a high flow turbo-back exhaust, and appropriate fueling upgrades, which is generally at least a stage 2 low pressure fuel pump and possibly something to supplement the hpfp; either Throttle Body Injection, Port Injection, or something like our Shotgun oversped hpfp system.

As far as your turbos going south, are they blowing smoke? The turbo whine may not mean certain death. When they say they have a leak at the turbo... if they tested the vacuum system then they most likely mean change your vacuum lines. That's pretty easy to do. So is changing your diverter valves.

[titium]

Originally Posted by Chris@VargasTurboTech

I think if you stay conservative with your hardware (i.e. don't max the shit out of your turbos, OEM, aftermarket, ours, or otherwise) and you'll get more life out of things -common sense really.

+1 to this.

a good tune can go a long way. just from watching threads online it's obvious alot of turbo failures are attributed to running them on the ragged edge to say they are putting out x psi which is only slightly less power then a guy running less boost.

A little less boost little more timing and you'll have a much happier more responsive car with less headaches.

I'd love to see compressor maps for upgraded turbos to get a true indication of how hard you can push them, because basing it off wgdc is useless imo.

[techwhiz]

OP, I'm confused.
Change the DV and see what happens. It's a few hundred buck for some real good ones and a metal charge pipe.

If that doesn't fix it, go to an indie and have the turbos done.
Keep the car. Unless you want to be in the repair boat with another used car, stay with the devil you know.

I have 145K on my car. Cob tuned for 90K miles.

[Ph3n0m]

OK so I'd have to spend a bit of money to really upgrade. I'll figure this out. For now, I'm just going to drive the car and not beat on it too much.