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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > Clutch Replacement - Leave Pilot Bearing Alone?



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      08-26-2019, 11:13 AM   #1
nissubaru
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Clutch Replacement - Leave Pilot Bearing Alone?

I should have seen it coming but I was so focused on replacing the engine and the rod bearings and all the seals that I neglected to realize my clutch was worn and should have been replaced. So I'm now dropping the trans and replacing the clutch, but my situation is a little different than most. I already had a Spec Stage 2+ clutch and steel flywheel installed on the car ~45k miles, which is another reason why I neglected to check my clutch, I thought it was fine before the engine swap so it would be fine after.

Anyways, that leaves me with two questions. Should I even attempt the pilot bearing? Lots of people say to leave it alone, some people say they were able to get it with the proper tool. I'm all for doing things the right way but this seems like a pain in the ass job for something that probably could be left alone.

Second question, should I worry about resurfacing or replacing the steel flywheel? I was hoping to just pull the clutch and put the new one back in, but if need be I can pull the flywheel as well.
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      08-26-2019, 11:29 AM   #2
Jeff@TopGearSolutions
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The only way to know about the flywheel is to inspect in person. If it's uneven and/or hot spotted it will need resurfacing. We have replacements too if needed.
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      08-26-2019, 02:00 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nissubaru View Post
I should have seen it coming but I was so focused on replacing the engine and the rod bearings and all the seals that I neglected to realize my clutch was worn and should have been replaced. So I'm now dropping the trans and replacing the clutch, but my situation is a little different than most. I already had a Spec Stage 2+ clutch and steel flywheel installed on the car ~45k miles, which is another reason why I neglected to check my clutch, I thought it was fine before the engine swap so it would be fine after.

Anyways, that leaves me with two questions. Should I even attempt the pilot bearing? Lots of people say to leave it alone, some people say they were able to get it with the proper tool. I'm all for doing things the right way but this seems like a pain in the ass job for something that probably could be left alone.

Second question, should I worry about resurfacing or replacing the steel flywheel? I was hoping to just pull the clutch and put the new one back in, but if need be I can pull the flywheel as well.
At around 160k miles on my e46, the pilot bearing is what went bad. I did disk and pressure plate replacement anyway, even though the originals had life left. Point being if you're in there already, might as well replace it. I agree with Jeff's post about flywheel; mine was reasonable so stuck with it without resurfacing.
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      08-27-2019, 12:39 PM   #4
WatchWolf34
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I can confirm that the pilot bearing is a real SOB. BUT, I was able to get it with a typical puller that I rented. Had to shave the insides of the arms so that there was enough clearance to have them slip inside the bearing and pull but it worked. Took a few hours at least. Still, as much of a PITA as it was, I'd do it again.
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      08-28-2019, 03:08 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WatchWolf34 View Post
I can confirm that the pilot bearing is a real SOB. BUT, I was able to get it with a typical puller that I rented. Had to shave the insides of the arms so that there was enough clearance to have them slip inside the bearing and pull but it worked. Took a few hours at least. Still, as much of a PITA as it was, I'd do it again.
I'm gonna hold off, my car has 88k miles. The Spec Stage 2+ clutch that was in it only lasted ~43k miles based on my estimates from the previous owner installing it. I'll be in there again before the pilot bearing goes to shit I'm sure. I'll replace it again in the future, not worried about it now. I'm not going to touch the flywheel, just pulling the clutch disc and putting it back up + replacing input/output seals, guide tube, release bearing and fork and the little metal clip that holds it in.
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      08-29-2019, 10:33 AM   #6
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I just changed out my motor, and the pilot bearing was a real bear. I've been pulling and installing bearings for 25+ years. I was already into it when I decided to research here why it was so tough. I ended up getting the Harbor Freight puller, and it was still really difficult. It only came out after I destroyed the bearing, leaving just the outer case. I heated the shaft gently, and it finally came out. Putting the new one in was also a PITA.

Perhaps what may help the install is heating the shaft and freezing the bearing, if anyone comes across this and needs some advice.
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      08-29-2019, 02:30 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malgyver View Post
I just changed out my motor, and the pilot bearing was a real bear. I've been pulling and installing bearings for 25+ years. I was already into it when I decided to research here why it was so tough. I ended up getting the Harbor Freight puller, and it was still really difficult. It only came out after I destroyed the bearing, leaving just the outer case. I heated the shaft gently, and it finally came out. Putting the new one in was also a PITA.

Perhaps what may help the install is heating the shaft and freezing the bearing, if anyone comes across this and needs some advice.
That doesn't sound like fun. I just finished replacing my motor as well but of all the things I replaced this was not one that popped up on my radar. I did the rear main seal but not the pilot bearing. That probably would have been the time to do it but now I'm just gonna roll with it until the next clutch job whenever that is. If I found more threads regarding pilot bearing failures then I'd be worried about it but there's a ton of people with twice the mileage as me so I'll worry about it later.
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      08-29-2019, 03:27 PM   #8
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Oddly enough, I did not replace the rear main, and did replace the Pilot. I had purchased a rear main seal, but when I took it out of the package, it appeared to match the old style rear main seal that had a groove in it, which apparently is problematic for some. So, I decided to leave it alone and hope for the best.
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      08-29-2019, 07:43 PM   #9
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Personally I'd like to hear more people comment on their experiences with removing the pilot bearing. I have been going back and forth on this topic for a while now. I've never had an issue with removing a pilot bearing with a bearing puller in the past. I've had challenges getting them out, but never got to a point where I was completely stuck, so I'm wondering what makes this particular bearing so difficult to remove.
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      08-30-2019, 09:27 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donutz View Post
Personally I'd like to hear more people comment on their experiences with removing the pilot bearing. I have been going back and forth on this topic for a while now. I've never had an issue with removing a pilot bearing with a bearing puller in the past. I've had challenges getting them out, but never got to a point where I was completely stuck, so I'm wondering what makes this particular bearing so difficult to remove.
From the research I've done it looks like the reason most people have a difficult time is because they don't have the appropriate tool. Still sounds like a pain in the ass even with the right tool but without it you're just going to have an awful time.
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      09-03-2019, 01:31 PM   #11
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My flywheel was probably fine but I got a late start the other day and I wasn't going to finish that day so I pulled the flywheel and found a place to refinish it. Should be $40 when I go pick it up tomorrow but it's worth the peace of mind. I don't plan on being in here again for another 50-100k miles if I can help it lol
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