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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing / Warranty > Help With Replacing Blower Motor Resistor



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      12-17-2010, 05:25 PM   #1
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Help With Replacing Blower Motor Resistor

My dealer wants too much $$ for the parts and labor to replace a blower motor resistor on my 06 E90 330i. Is this a complicated job or is it something an average local mechanic can do.

Last edited by F30JetsFan; 12-17-2010 at 06:48 PM..
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      12-17-2010, 09:08 PM   #2
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It's a 15 minute job. Are you sure it is the controller and not the motor itself?
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      12-17-2010, 09:40 PM   #3
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Problem was diagnosed over the phone with service advisor. He said the part is $180 plus 1-1.5 hrs labor. I explained the heater fan is fluctuating between 40-80% but my front window defrost blows at full speed. He told me this sounds like a prob with the blower motor resistor, and they have experienced this type of issue before. I would like to know where on the vehicle this part is located so maybe I can do the repair myself.

Last edited by F30JetsFan; 12-17-2010 at 09:57 PM..
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      12-17-2010, 09:58 PM   #4
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The resistor pack is a module for a set of series resitors that BMW uses in several older models and the diagnosis for failure was the fan would only blow on the highest setting. The E90 blower has a "motor contoller", P/N 64119222072, that retail is $115, or $92 at Tischer BMW. The blower motor is closer to $180 retail. The motor controller is screwed on to the blower unit and is easily accessible once you have removed the lower passenger side dash panel. The motor controller may be just a sophisticated resistor pack (it does have a heat sink in it so it could just be a bunch of series resistors). I just posted a DIY on replacing the blower unit, the instructions for replacing the contoller are there. You can replace the motor controller with out removing the blower unit.
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      12-17-2010, 10:16 PM   #5
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Yes. That is indeed the same price and part # I got from Tischer when I called them today. Where can I find the DYI you posted. I thank you for your help.
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      12-17-2010, 10:23 PM   #6
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Never mind....I found it
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      12-18-2010, 07:29 AM   #7
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It really is an easy task to replace the motor controller. But I noticed you added some more information in your post of the problem, which makes me question the diagnosis (over the phone by the dealer). You said that the defrost blows full blast, but other vents are only at 40% - 80%. You need to understand the HVAC system has 7 stepper motors in it that control the flow of air though the system. The stepper motors control the air movement by changing positions of various flap valves in the ductwork. I assume you have a Canadian car, so I'm not sure if your system is automatic or manual (but I don't think that changes the components of the system anyway). But to test it, if it is an auto system, is put in manual and run the fan at different speeds and see if it is the fan motor. Then run the system in different air circulation positions and see if it is a stepper motor.

I think the best thing you be to get the car hooked up to a scan tool and run the tests on the HVAC system. I think at this point you are just guessing at the solution based on a phone conversation with an SA at the dealer and attempting to repair it with expensive parts.
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      12-18-2010, 05:06 PM   #8
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I have used your method to test it in the past. My system is the automatic. I've set it to the manual position and tested the fan speed in different air circulation positions. The fan speed does not blow at full speed no matter which circulation position is selected. The fan speed only blows at full speed when in the front window defrost position. All other positions are not functioning the way they are supposed to. There has been days when it will not blow more than 50% other days it will blow more. This happens whether I have the temp set warm or cold. Stealer wants $150 for diagnosis.
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      01-04-2011, 07:09 PM   #9
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I have a similar problem that just suddenly started this morning. I started the car and turned on the defrost and nothing. Started switching air flow positions and fan speeds and no air blows whatsoever. I can hear what sounds like the stepper motors engaging when I switch from upper dash, mid dash, and foot vents. There was no bad sounds of the blower motor starting to fail before this. I checked (i think) all applicable fuses and all were good. Any advice from your experiences with this?
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      05-20-2011, 08:07 PM   #10
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i had similar issues also. turned out it was the ipod most adpater i hooked up 5 years ago exactly where bmw instructed their techs to place it, affected the fresh air stepper motor. relocated the adapter to a different location and problem mysteriously left.
made me nuts for almost a year. bought the final stage resistor. that worked for a day, why i dont know. even went as far as changing the fresh air motor to no avail. i read on here some where someone saying that the ipod interface had affected their climate control system in the same way as mine. decided hey give it a shot. ps worked like a charm.
now my question is, should or did BMW post some sort of recall or service bulletin to fix this problem? surely i cant be the only one this has affected. should i bother contacting them and fishing around for some answers, or let it go and finally enjoy my cars climate system the way it was meant to be?

edit: if you do indeed need to replace the resistor this should help you
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=500653
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Last edited by SMOKE EM IF U GOT EM!!; 05-20-2011 at 08:43 PM..
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      09-28-2011, 06:20 AM   #11
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Question Blower heater motor problem

Hello all

I had a problem with the heater blower motor it was not working at all. I checked the fuses ,they were ok then i decided to replace it.but before you replace it please take out the micro filter from under the bonnet

Then from the passenger side duct on the right hand driven cars look at the blower motor .you will see a rusty bolt please take wd40 and a long straw and put it on top of put lot of it eg a spoon full.

Then turn your car on and make sure the blower is on from the digital controls .move the blower motor with help of a screw driver or any other object that could get into the duct .and it will start working .if your motor is not fully blown .


Good luck
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      10-17-2011, 10:10 AM   #12
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Weak blower - now clicking!!

Okay, so I just read that this is a common problem in 2006 BMW 325i. In March I noticed that the fan would intermittently lose power and get weaker then go back to normal. My parents took it to the dealership and had the problem fixed while I was out of town and it was okay until about Mid September. Then I noticed that it would still go out intermittently, like before, but it would also never get up to high - it was probably less than 50% of what it should have been.

Then 3 days ago it started clicking! The clicking is faster when the blower is turned up, so I think it's the actual fan.

Anyone have any ideas? Also, how much do you think it would cost to diagnose and fix this problem?

Thanks!!
Liz
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      10-19-2011, 05:27 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by missylizzy View Post
Okay, so I just read that this is a common problem in 2006 BMW 325i. In March I noticed that the fan would intermittently lose power and get weaker then go back to normal. My parents took it to the dealership and had the problem fixed while I was out of town and it was okay until about Mid September. Then I noticed that it would still go out intermittently, like before, but it would also never get up to high - it was probably less than 50% of what it should have been.

Then 3 days ago it started clicking! The clicking is faster when the blower is turned up, so I think it's the actual fan.

Anyone have any ideas? Also, how much do you think it would cost to diagnose and fix this problem?

Thanks!!
Liz
It's the actual blower motor (which has the fan on it). The blower motor shaft is oriented vertically, which allows water to penetrate into the bearings. This eventually causes the bearings to fail, which lets shaft move around and the fan actually starts to hit the housing. It's an easy fix. The blower motor/fan costs about $100 at the dealer and should only take 1 hour of "book" time to replace, so $200 tops. A decent independent BMW shop can make this repair for you. Have you tried Curry's automotive? They work on BMWs and are an honest shop. There is one in Sterling.
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      11-01-2012, 10:10 PM   #14
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THIS!

This fixed it for me! Bump for Aman, you saved me at least $200!


Quote:
Originally Posted by aman475 View Post
Hello all

I had a problem with the heater blower motor it was not working at all. I checked the fuses ,they were ok then i decided to replace it.but before you replace it please take out the micro filter from under the bonnet

Then from the passenger side duct on the right hand driven cars look at the blower motor .you will see a rusty bolt please take wd40 and a long straw and put it on top of put lot of it eg a spoon full.

Then turn your car on and make sure the blower is on from the digital controls .move the blower motor with help of a screw driver or any other object that could get into the duct .and it will start working .if your motor is not fully blown .


Good luck
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      11-21-2012, 12:56 PM   #15
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I recently purchased a 2006 325i and the fan does not blow air, yet the AC/Heater display shows fan speed at any setting. I pulled the fuse (assuming it is No. 67 - 30 AMP fuse) and tested it, it is ok. I have read multiple postings regarding this issue. I'm not sure if it is a blower regulator (aka blower motor resistor) or the fan motor itself. There were no fan noises prior to it failing. I would appreciate any feedback you may have on this?
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      11-25-2012, 08:44 PM   #16
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BMW 320d blower

Aman, you are the man! Followed this & after 15 minutes, all fixed saving me $600 as no doubt the techs would have replaced both motor & resistor/controller. I googled how to remove the microfilter & found a Utube clip & it was simple -six 6 mm bolts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by aman475 View Post
Hello all

I had a problem with the heater blower motor it was not working at all. I checked the fuses ,they were ok then i decided to replace it.but before you replace it please take out the micro filter from under the bonnet

Then from the passenger side duct on the right hand driven cars look at the blower motor .you will see a rusty bolt please take wd40 and a long straw and put it on top of put lot of it eg a spoon full.

Then turn your car on and make sure the blower is on from the digital controls .move the blower motor with help of a screw driver or any other object that could get into the duct .and it will start working .if your motor is not fully blown .


Good luck
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      05-04-2013, 11:35 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aman475 View Post
Hello all

I had a problem with the heater blower motor it was not working at all. I checked the fuses ,they were ok then i decided to replace it.but before you replace it please take out the micro filter from under the bonnet

Then from the passenger side duct on the right hand driven cars look at the blower motor .you will see a rusty bolt please take wd40 and a long straw and put it on top of put lot of it eg a spoon full.

Then turn your car on and make sure the blower is on from the digital controls .move the blower motor with help of a screw driver or any other object that could get into the duct .and it will start working .if your motor is not fully blown .


Good luck
I know tihs is an older post, but did this this morning and it worked. Before your mess with th FSU or blower motor, try this first. Takes less that 10 minutes!
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      06-15-2013, 08:55 PM   #18
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I found the same problem - instant no fan whatsoever and fuse fine. Read all the threads and pulled the glovebox to find the brown wire to the FSU cooked, 2" of insulation gone, copper strands separated, green/black, and broken off from the 4 position connector.

So I pulled the melted connector and FSU (also melted at that terminal), removed the cover, and that spade terminal broke right off. Figuring I had nothing to lose I removed the terminal next to it as well and directly soldered two pigtails to the FSU circuit board after drilling out the mounting posts to remove the board. It was reassembled with fresh thermal compound and E6000 and a small notch in the cover to pass out the wires.

I then cut the two crispy harness wires back about 4", soldered on two extensions and mated them separately with a hobby EC3 connector rated for 60 amps continuous. Put it all back together with the 4 position connector now housing only the small fan speed signal wire and it works great!

Not for the faint of heart but if you are a DIYer and glutton for punishment, and have a couple hours free to waste on a Saturday in lieu of ordering a $75 FSU and sourcing an unavailable connector to splice on you may want to give this a try.

The OE spade connector doesn't seem up to the task of delivering the current required.
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      07-01-2013, 06:51 PM   #19
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blower is not working

I have a 335i 2007 E90 and the inside blower is not working, with a multimeter there is no voltage coming to the motor or resistor (tried all setting high) checked all fuses. still no voltage coming on the Motor/resistor . Climate control panel all green lights and it functions normal . That happened after changing water pump/thermostat.
any ideas
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      01-24-2014, 04:42 PM   #20
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I'm having the same problems. Someone mentioned the passenger vent? I don't see anything in there. Do you have to look under the hood? In the glovebox?
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      05-22-2014, 07:17 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aman475 View Post
Hello all

I had a problem with the heater blower motor it was not working at all. I checked the fuses ,they were ok then i decided to replace it.but before you replace it please take out the micro filter from under the bonnet

Then from the passenger side duct on the right hand driven cars look at the blower motor .you will see a rusty bolt please take wd40 and a long straw and put it on top of put lot of it eg a spoon full.

Then turn your car on and make sure the blower is on from the digital controls .move the blower motor with help of a screw driver or any other object that could get into the duct .and it will start working .if your motor is not fully blown .


Good luck
Worked like a charm. You'll see the rusty nut if you remove the micro filter cover and peer down into the passenger side intake.
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      05-28-2014, 12:23 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aman475 View Post
Hello all

I had a problem with the heater blower motor it was not working at all. I checked the fuses ,they were ok then i decided to replace it.but before you replace it please take out the micro filter from under the bonnet

Then from the passenger side duct on the right hand driven cars look at the blower motor .you will see a rusty bolt please take wd40 and a long straw and put it on top of put lot of it eg a spoon full.

Then turn your car on and make sure the blower is on from the digital controls .move the blower motor with help of a screw driver or any other object that could get into the duct .and it will start working .if your motor is not fully blown .


Good luck
Yes!!! Worked for me too! Many thanks!!!

X5 E70 2007, 3.0d

So always try the simple things, before spending lots of money and time on spare parts and repair shops.
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