IHKA un-calibrates

Volare · 07-02-2013, 11:06 PM

I am having some ac problems. When the ac (snowflake) button is pressed, the vent output drops drastically. If I toggle the ac button off, the vents work perfectly.

Here is the really weird part. If I hook my laptop to the OBDII port and run INPA, and go through the recalibration of the heater core flap motors, everything works fine. The ac blows strong and cool. The problem is, after an hour or so, the original problem returns.

As additional info, since my car is 7 years old and I plan to run it into the ground, I have replaced the final stage resistor and blower motor since these are common failures and the parts are cheap. This made no change.

Also, the blue red wheel in the center grill seems to do nothing, so I am wondering if that is faulty and is making IHKA deliver the "warm top mix" setting.

Is it worth replacing this wheel switch since it is not expensive? Is this a software glitch that would benefit from a full recode/update? Could it be a sensor?

Thanks for any thoughts...

pweber · 07-03-2013, 06:14 AM

I had the same issue last time when I drove my car in long distance. Was pretty hot and my air flaps seemed to be closed, and when I tried to increase fan speed I heard the sound like from old hoover. I turned off AC and on again and all was fine, but only for few minutes. I stopped a car, engine off and was waiting one minute, then everything came back to normal. It was weird, I hope it won't back again?

Surly73 · 07-03-2013, 07:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Volare

Also, the blue red wheel in the center grill seems to do nothing, so I am wondering if that is faulty and is making IHKA deliver the "warm top mix" setting.

Is it worth replacing this wheel switch since it is not expensive? Is this a software glitch that would benefit from a full recode/update? Could it be a sensor?

Thanks for any thoughts...

If you've got INPA installed and working, I'm pretty sure that there are INPA screens that will read out the input from analog controls such as the blending wheel. Just use this functionality to confirm it's working properly and save your money.

Do you have iDrive?

pweber · 07-03-2013, 08:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Surly73

If you've got INPA installed and working, I'm pretty sure that there are INPA screens that will read out the input from analog controls such as the blending wheel. Just use this functionality to confirm it's working properly and save your money.

Do you have iDrive?

I have Idrive.
Sure I have this software and I know how to check it, I even checked errors with ISTA-D and nothing has appeared.

Volare · 07-03-2013, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ******

I had the same issue last time when I drove my car in long distance. Was pretty hot and my air flaps seemed to be closed, and when I tried to increase fan speed I heard the sound like from old hoover. I turned off AC and on again and all was fine, but only for few minutes. I stopped a car, engine off and was waiting one minute, then everything came back to normal. It was weird, I hope it won't back again?

That is exactly the noise I have ... great description. Like a choking clogged vacuum.

Volare · 07-03-2013, 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ******

I have Idrive.
Sure I have this software and I know how to check it, I even checked errors with ISTA-D and nothing has appeared.

Thank you.

I also remember no telltale signals when changing the air mix wheel setting while in INPA. I was able to pick up a spare center vent with switch on eBay and will report on that. (I needed a new one anyway since I broke a slat or two while installing a phone mount that attaches to the vent).

In the meantime, if anyone else has any thoughts, fire away.

Volare · 07-05-2013, 11:23 PM

I tested both the old hot air mix wheel and the new one on the new vent I just received and both were working and showing changes correctly in INPA.

What else could be causing the weakening airflow requiring recalibration of the heater/AC core flap motors?

Surly73 · 07-08-2013, 12:39 PM

Sorry I'm catching up after a few days away and I haven't checked your thread in the other forum.

Have you checked for blockage of the recirc inlet vents in the footwell yet? Perhaps also for a mechanical flap issue (e.g. the flap has come disconnected from the actuator)?

Volare · 07-10-2013, 02:33 PM

thanks for the reply. I will check the footwell again this weekend, but I was pretty careful when I replaced the blower and final stage resistor to make sure air flow was unimpeded.

All the flaps and sensors seem ok in INPA.

I think I need to reprogram the IHKA. That is my hunch. I need to comb though the coding section of the site. If anyone has a good how-to for IHKA, climate, HVAC coding ...

Volare · 02-12-2014, 11:53 AM

As weird as this problem was, it went away as soon as the weather cooled off. How ironic. I was driving on the freeway and the heat was on and the AC button happened to also be on, and boom, full air flow while the compressor was also on. Tried the AC several times, even on warmer days and that also works.

I am wondering if a sensor had moisture or something interfering with it. Or it could just be cosmic irony that once summer ends your AC starts working again.

07-02-2013, 11:06 PM	#1
Volare New Member 7 Rep 20 Posts Drives: 2006 BMW 330i Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Santa Clara,CA iTrader: (0)	IHKA un-calibrates I am having some ac problems. When the ac (snowflake) button is pressed, the vent output drops drastically. If I toggle the ac button off, the vents work perfectly. Here is the really weird part. If I hook my laptop to the OBDII port and run INPA, and go through the recalibration of the heater core flap motors, everything works fine. The ac blows strong and cool. The problem is, after an hour or so, the original problem returns. As additional info, since my car is 7 years old and I plan to run it into the ground, I have replaced the final stage resistor and blower motor since these are common failures and the parts are cheap. This made no change. Also, the blue red wheel in the center grill seems to do nothing, so I am wondering if that is faulty and is making IHKA deliver the "warm top mix" setting. Is it worth replacing this wheel switch since it is not expensive? Is this a software glitch that would benefit from a full recode/update? Could it be a sensor? Thanks for any thoughts...
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07-03-2013, 06:14 AM	#2
pweber Banned 37 Rep 252 Posts Drives: M57 330D Join Date: May 2013 Location: Heilbronn iTrader: (0)	I had the same issue last time when I drove my car in long distance. Was pretty hot and my air flaps seemed to be closed, and when I tried to increase fan speed I heard the sound like from old hoover. I turned off AC and on again and all was fine, but only for few minutes. I stopped a car, engine off and was waiting one minute, then everything came back to normal. It was weird, I hope it won't back again?
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07-05-2013, 11:23 PM	#7
Volare New Member 7 Rep 20 Posts Drives: 2006 BMW 330i Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Santa Clara,CA iTrader: (0)	Definitely NOT the wheel switch I tested both the old hot air mix wheel and the new one on the new vent I just received and both were working and showing changes correctly in INPA. What else could be causing the weakening airflow requiring recalibration of the heater/AC core flap motors?
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07-08-2013, 12:39 PM	#8
Surly73 Lieutenant Colonel 535 Rep 1,873 Posts Drives: '11 535xi 8AT KWv3 MPE MHD xHP Join Date: May 2012 Location: Oakville, Ontario iTrader: (1)	Sorry I'm catching up after a few days away and I haven't checked your thread in the other forum. Have you checked for blockage of the recirc inlet vents in the footwell yet? Perhaps also for a mechanical flap issue (e.g. the flap has come disconnected from the actuator)?
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07-10-2013, 02:33 PM	#9
Volare New Member 7 Rep 20 Posts Drives: 2006 BMW 330i Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Santa Clara,CA iTrader: (0)	thanks for the reply. I will check the footwell again this weekend, but I was pretty careful when I replaced the blower and final stage resistor to make sure air flow was unimpeded. All the flaps and sensors seem ok in INPA. I think I need to reprogram the IHKA. That is my hunch. I need to comb though the coding section of the site. If anyone has a good how-to for IHKA, climate, HVAC coding ...
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02-12-2014, 11:53 AM	#10
Volare New Member 7 Rep 20 Posts Drives: 2006 BMW 330i Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Santa Clara,CA iTrader: (0)	As weird as this problem was, it went away as soon as the weather cooled off. How ironic. I was driving on the freeway and the heat was on and the AC button happened to also be on, and boom, full air flow while the compressor was also on. Tried the AC several times, even on warmer days and that also works. I am wondering if a sensor had moisture or something interfering with it. Or it could just be cosmic irony that once summer ends your AC starts working again.
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