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Upgrading front sway-bar only a bad idea?
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02-27-2013, 10:10 PM | #1 |
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Upgrading front sway-bar only a bad idea?
I was going to do front and rear M3 sway bars but really don't want to drop the rear subframe again (just did it a week ago) to do the rear, can I just upgrade the front swaybar or will this throw my car out of balance? I honestly can't see to much improvement with a upgraded sway bar in the back (have a pretty stiff rear suspension with mods I added last week) but maybe a bit in the front.
Here is the sway bar I want to get (want to do M3 since everything else is lol!) http://hpashop.com/BMW-OEM-M3-Front-...bar-e9x-m3.htm
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02-27-2013, 10:20 PM | #2 |
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There's not much of a benefit to roll in the front of the car. Adding the M3 front sway will help curb that behavior. It won't be a night and day difference, but you'll notice. Go for it!
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02-27-2013, 10:23 PM | #3 |
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You mean no benefit to back but benefit to front...I was thinking the same....appears the damn M3 swaybar bar is on national back order until April. I saw one for sale for a E92....I assume this would be the same for a E90?
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JB4 G5, Stage 3 LPFP, Stage 2 MOTIV PI, VM 6466 ST, Custom OCC W/ SS lines, ER FMIC, ER CP W/HKS BOV, M3 control arms, M3 guide rods, M3 upper links, M3 front & rear sway-bars, HPA rear toe arms, Wavetrac LSD, HPF Gen 2, DEFIV kit, KW clubsport, Delrin solid SF bushings, stoptech rotors, Rogue Tranny Mounts, 1M bumper, M3 CF hood, M3 fenders, M3 OEM sideskirts, Mtech rear bumper, CSL trunk, MORR VS8.2 rims 245/295
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02-27-2013, 10:38 PM | #4 |
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Yeah the front will turn in flatter w/ the front sway - it's just adding to the total effective spring rate up there by transferring forces from one side of the car to the other.
I see you already have coilovers so that should be plenty of stiffness in the rear. No need for rear sway; just apply throttle to rotate the rear. The sway bars aren't differently designed between E9x variants, so one from an E90 will fit fine. The E93 M3 sway bar is a bit more powerful, you could try that.
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02-27-2013, 10:59 PM | #5 | |
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02-27-2013, 11:05 PM | #6 |
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harold you have one I can get or are they on back order? I like ordering from you lol!! Also lengthening the endlinks in front was great advice...my buddy had shortened his and tried your way of lengthening them and it is much better
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JB4 G5, Stage 3 LPFP, Stage 2 MOTIV PI, VM 6466 ST, Custom OCC W/ SS lines, ER FMIC, ER CP W/HKS BOV, M3 control arms, M3 guide rods, M3 upper links, M3 front & rear sway-bars, HPA rear toe arms, Wavetrac LSD, HPF Gen 2, DEFIV kit, KW clubsport, Delrin solid SF bushings, stoptech rotors, Rogue Tranny Mounts, 1M bumper, M3 CF hood, M3 fenders, M3 OEM sideskirts, Mtech rear bumper, CSL trunk, MORR VS8.2 rims 245/295
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02-27-2013, 11:06 PM | #7 | |
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JB4 G5, Stage 3 LPFP, Stage 2 MOTIV PI, VM 6466 ST, Custom OCC W/ SS lines, ER FMIC, ER CP W/HKS BOV, M3 control arms, M3 guide rods, M3 upper links, M3 front & rear sway-bars, HPA rear toe arms, Wavetrac LSD, HPF Gen 2, DEFIV kit, KW clubsport, Delrin solid SF bushings, stoptech rotors, Rogue Tranny Mounts, 1M bumper, M3 CF hood, M3 fenders, M3 OEM sideskirts, Mtech rear bumper, CSL trunk, MORR VS8.2 rims 245/295
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02-27-2013, 11:09 PM | #8 |
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If you replace only the front bar with a beefier one you'll get more under steer than without the replacement bar. I'm not sure why you would want to do this. But then I guess it depends on what you are trying to accomplish. For me, I'm looking for better overall handling with less under steer. I've made my tire sizes more square and have added a camber plate from Dinan and gotten a significantly better handling car. I've also upgrade the bars but did so front and rear.
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02-27-2013, 11:25 PM | #9 | |
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03-03-2013, 09:44 PM | #10 |
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Gotta help me on this one. The physics don't change by brand. If what you are saying is true then help explain further.
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03-03-2013, 11:21 PM | #11 | |
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Typical "race car" geometry would dictate, yes, thicker front bar would result in less grip up front thus increasing a chassis's tendency to understeer. But the MacPherson type strut design has unfavorable camber gain once the suspension compress past roll center. Therefore, on a car with limited camber, preventing additional roll increase in the front MIGHT actually improve grip in the front rather than take it away. HAVING SAID THAT. You can't just throw thicker front bar and assume it'll reduce understeer. It has to be a combination of factors, one mainly of reducing the suspension's compression past roll center. If you have a very stiff suspension, with moderate amount of camber, the result will likely be positive. If you have a soft-ish suspension and factory camber, the problem might actually be exacerbated. If you have any combination there of, or if the vehcile's lowered significantly, the result then become a little bit less predictable.
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03-04-2013, 12:03 AM | #12 | |
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JB4 G5, Stage 3 LPFP, Stage 2 MOTIV PI, VM 6466 ST, Custom OCC W/ SS lines, ER FMIC, ER CP W/HKS BOV, M3 control arms, M3 guide rods, M3 upper links, M3 front & rear sway-bars, HPA rear toe arms, Wavetrac LSD, HPF Gen 2, DEFIV kit, KW clubsport, Delrin solid SF bushings, stoptech rotors, Rogue Tranny Mounts, 1M bumper, M3 CF hood, M3 fenders, M3 OEM sideskirts, Mtech rear bumper, CSL trunk, MORR VS8.2 rims 245/295
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03-06-2013, 06:37 AM | #13 |
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Do the rear, a big difference in reduced body roll. You'll be happy you did. It's almost x2 thickness than the stock one.
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03-06-2013, 08:58 AM | #14 |
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03-06-2013, 09:23 AM | #15 |
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03-06-2013, 03:46 PM | #16 | |
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Deff do the rear sway!
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