[stelvio]

Hi guys,

I recently bought a 335 n54 and while I was changing the brakes I smelled fuel from the rear left wheel well. I took the liner off and found the smell coming from up top from a little hole where some wires go into and there's also some sort of sensor there. Anyone have any experience with this?

Also, fun fact, car misfires/stutters at WOT at higher rpm which triggers CEL and will continue to sound like a subaru until turned off.

[stelvio]

UPDATE:
Removed rear bench & opened the access to fuel tank and found this:


It seems the source has been found of the fuel smell. I tried wiping it but it continues to leak even after car is off. Haven't tried running car while looking at this though.

Suggestions?

[BeastMode335i]

Originally Posted by stelvio

Suggestions?

I'd suggest you get a new fuel filter..

[Pavement Molestor]

misfire most likely due to worn ignition coil. scan for codes and replace coil on misfiring cylinder. be sure to change all spark plugs.

[G-Hindu]

I had the same issue about a year ago. LPFP developed a crack in top. Had the same issues at WOT and triggering CEL. Replacing the LPFP solved the issue.

[stelvio]

Originally Posted by BeastMode335i

I'd suggest you get a new fuel filter..

I got new filter coming in; auto shop said that I would need to replace both buckets and would be unwise not to. Thoughts? Is he just saying that to get business or can someone confirm?

Originally Posted by Naturally Aspirated F10

misfire most likely due to worn ignition coil. scan for codes and replace coil on misfiring cylinder. be sure to change all spark plugs.

New plugs arrived today.

Originally Posted by G-Hindu

I had the same issue about a year ago. LPFP developed a crack in top. Had the same issues at WOT and triggering CEL. Replacing the LPFP solved the issue.

Did you change just the LPFP? P/N?

[BeastMode335i]

Originally Posted by stelvio

[i]I got new filter coming in; auto shop said that I would need to replace both buckets and would be unwise not to. Thoughts? Is he just saying that to get business or can someone confirm?

Find a new auto shop.. He's trying to sell you a LPFP as well lol..

[stelvio]

Originally Posted by BeastMode335i

Find a new auto shop.. He's trying to sell you a LPFP as well lol..

He was. I may possibly need a LPFP but I've changed fuel pumps before so I think I'll save a few hundred and do it myself along w/ the fuel filter. How hard can it be.

[BashShah]

This may be off topic, but did you scan for codes?
also behind left rear wheel under bumper is the Fuel Charcoal Filter for the Evap system.
a crack there will do it.
but you will also get a CEL on complete drive cycle after code clearing.

just a thought.

[stelvio]

Originally Posted by DarkNemesis

This may be off topic, but did you scan for codes?
also behind left rear wheel under bumper is the Fuel Charcoal Filter for the Evap system.
a crack there will do it.
but you will also get a CEL on complete drive cycle after code clearing.

just a thought.

Hello, yes I scanned for codes and just got a bunch of misfires and limp mode and reduced boost, etc etc...because of my plugs [see next post]. When I removed the cap under the rear seat there was visible liquid fuel and it smelled like fuel. Hopefully I can get the filter assembly changed today in hopes that it fixes the issue.

[stelvio]

UPDATE:

So I decided to change the sparkplugs w/ the proper Bosch ZGR6STE2 ones.
When I pulled the coils I saw that the sparkplugs in place were not 12-point, but NGK PLZKAR6A-11 hex plugs [usually used on nissan sentras? LOL]...so I automatically knew I had to find my funderwear because this was going to be a fun day.

For some reason I just couldn't find a socket to grab and undo these plugs so I bought a bunch [I have a stack of sockets I have to return tomorrow to Autozone] but they did have a 14mm 12-point thinwall sparkplug socket w/ rubber insert for like $6.99 or so [I removed the rubber insert otherwise it was glued to the plug]. As I was trying to remove the plug from cylinder #1 I noticed the coil couldn't be pushed completely down and when I removed the coil I saw that the sparkplug was loose. My heart dropped a little.

Sure enough, one of the threads in the head seemed to be cross threaded or something. Back to autozone to see if they have helicoil for 12x1.25...they obviously didn't. Got home and ordered the Time-Serts sparkplug kit from Amazon along w/ 22mm inserts.

I then went back outside and decided to inspect the other 5 plugs and change them, which went smooth. Then I got an idea: I took my drill and with an adapter I put it on the slowest speed and attempted to tighten the plug while pushing on it gently and holding the drill very still. It spun a little aimlessly but it ended up catching on the threads!! Once it caught a little I hand-tightened it accordingly [17ftlbs according to the box the plugs came in] and went out for a test drive.

No more sputtering, stuttering, misfires, etc etc. Car runs smooth at WOT throughout the rev-range. I would like to take a moment now and thank Jesus for not letting this become an expense in the thousands Also, the clown who previously owned the car...

[BeastMode335i]

Originally Posted by stelvio

UPDATE:

So I decided to change the sparkplugs w/ the proper Bosch ZGR6STE2 ones.
When I pulled the coils I saw that the sparkplugs in place were not 12-point, but NGK PLZKAR6A-11 hex plugs [usually used on nissan sentras? LOL]...so I automatically knew I had to find my funderwear because this was going to be a fun day.

For some reason I just couldn't find a socket to grab and undo these plugs so I bought a bunch [I have a stack of sockets I have to return tomorrow to Autozone] but they did have a 14mm 12-point thinwall sparkplug socket w/ rubber insert for like $6.99 or so [I removed the rubber insert otherwise it was glued to the plug]. As I was trying to remove the plug from cylinder #1 I noticed the coil couldn't be pushed completely down and when I removed the coil I saw that the sparkplug was loose. My heart dropped a little.

Sure enough, one of the threads in the head seemed to be cross threaded or something. Back to autozone to see if they have helicoil for 12x1.25...they obviously didn't. Got home and ordered the Time-Serts sparkplug kit from Amazon along w/ 22mm inserts.

I then went back outside and decided to inspect the other 5 plugs and change them, which went smooth. Then I got an idea: I took my drill and with an adapter I put it on the slowest speed and attempted to tighten the plug while pushing on it gently and holding the drill very still. It spun a little aimlessly but it ended up catching on the threads!! Once it caught a little I hand-tightened it accordingly [17ftlbs according to the box the plugs came in] and went out for a test drive.

No more sputtering, stuttering, misfires, etc etc. Car runs smooth at WOT throughout the rev-range. I would like to take a moment now and thank Jesus for not letting this become an expense in the thousands Also, the clown who previously owned the car...

Wow, that's a nice save bro.. Sounded kinda like a ghetto fix for a sec, but desperate times call for desperate measures I assume lol..

But yes, a ton of us have experienced the cracked fuel filter situation, it's really an easy fix.. I got my fuel filter off FCP with lifetime warranty, and took me about an hour to fix..

As you can see, mine was peeing out a lot of fuel so the smell was crazy strong.. If you wipe away a bunch of that black crap and put a paper towel down while you prime the fuel system you'll most likely see the crack as I did.. But it's been fixed almost a year now and zero issues..

[stelvio]

Originally Posted by BeastMode335i

Wow, that's a nice save bro.. Sounded kinda like a ghetto fix for a sec, but desperate times call for desperate measures I assume lol..

But yes, a ton of us have experienced the cracked fuel filter situation, it's really an easy fix.. I got my fuel filter off FCP with lifetime warranty, and took me about an hour to fix..

As you can see, mine was peeing out a lot of fuel so the smell was crazy strong.. If you wipe away a bunch of that black crap and put a paper towel down while you prime the fuel system you'll most likely see the crack as I did.. But it's been fixed almost a year now and zero issues..

I definitely saw the 'ghettoness' of it as well, but it seemed the top threads were just messed up because afterwards the threads caught on and held well.

That's an insane amount fuel spitting out!! I'm not that bad but definitely needs to be replaced asap.

Only issue I have is that I do not have the tool to remove the ring :/
Anyone in AZ willing to lend a hand of some sorts?

[BeastMode335i]

Originally Posted by stelvio

I definitely saw the 'ghettoness' of it as well, but it seemed the top threads were just messed up because afterwards the threads caught on and held well.

That's an insane amount fuel spitting out!! I'm not that bad but definitely needs to be replaced asap.

Only issue I have is that I do not have the tool to remove the ring :/
Anyone in AZ willing to lend a hand of some sorts?

Using a flat head and small hammer works just as well to tap it off..

[Icyjaws]

so I'm having this issue with my car. just so I'm clear the driver side has a crack in that and that's the filter? because looking around I'm having a hard time even finding a fuel filter for a e90 335,

[Icyjaws]

ok so I found https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...P9C9C3UR&psc=1
is that the only way to fix the cracked cover to buy a whole new assembly? I've tryied jb weld and some stop leak sealent but they don't seem to have enough time to set plus it would only be a temp fix

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by stelvio

I definitely saw the 'ghettoness' of it as well, but it seemed the top threads were just messed up because afterwards the threads caught on and held well.

That's an insane amount fuel spitting out!! I'm not that bad but definitely needs to be replaced asap.

Only issue I have is that I do not have the tool to remove the ring :/
Anyone in AZ willing to lend a hand of some sorts?

Spray some penetrating oil on the ring, then get a brass drift or punch and turn it by hammering the brass drift on ring to rotate. If it is too tight a steel drift or punch will damage the ring. Harbor freight has cheap brass ones.