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Do I need to replace my car battery?
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07-01-2012, 07:08 AM | #23 |
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You know everybody, there is physics that applies to the lead acid batteries we use to start our vehicles.
BMW batteries DO NOT last only 2 years. I have friends who bought 2006 330i's and they are still on their original batteries. You hit the nail on the head, you don't drive your car daily. Did you load test your battery after fully charging it? What is this "trickle charger" that you mention, what make, model. I cannot understand why people dance around testing their batteries. It's like saying doc, I can't breathe and I feel as if my heart will stop beating. I seem to have gained 50 lbs. since I last saw you 3 years ago. Meanwhile, your doctor doesn't want to perform any tests and simply asks more questions and tries to guess what the problem is. |
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07-01-2012, 11:22 AM | #24 | |
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It's the one BMW is/was selling. I purchased it after my first battery was replaced under "goodwill" and I was told I didn't drive the car enough. (Which I freely admit. I don't have the time.) The charger/battery maintainer came from the BMW parts department. It has a BMW PN and a BMW roundel on it (no doubt allowing it to command the price premium over the nearly identical Chinese product sold on Amazon without the BMW roundel.) The latest iteration of the car's ongoing electronic problems seems to have strained the battery. However, I made certain that it was completely charged before taking it to the dealer for the repair. However, it looks like they kept it in the programming bay over night without putting it to sleep, and after I picked the car up the poltergeists that appeared when my first battery started dying have reappeared. Since BMW doesn't warrant their batteries, I have the choice of either paying BMW $450 for a BMW battery with no warranty, or paying $200 for an Interstate battery with a warranty. The choice seems so obvious that it shouldn't even merit any discussion. I have not been impressed by either BMW batteries or BMW customer service at this point. Interstate, WalMart and Sears are able to warrant their batteries and still make a profit. And I'm happy to pay for a $200 Interstate battery with a 30 month free exchange. Over 2 years, that will cost me about $0.25 per day. $0.12 if it needs replacement in another 2 years. Note that I can leave any of our Japanese cars for days and days without them being driven and the battery is never a problem. To be fair, the battery discharge issue seems to be a Porsche problem, too. Electronics just aren't the German car industry's forte. It's OK if German cars are hard on batteries, I like driving German cars, I can afford it, and I don't have a problem with it. I just want the car to work. So if anyone knows what model Interstate battery will fit in an E91, I would appreciate the information, since posters have indicated that the battery that Interstate lists for the E9x won't fit.
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2008 E91 36K, 6-speed, RWD, Alpine, Terra, Xenons, ZSP, ZCW, ZPP, PDC, CA, alarm, M shifter and M brake handle, Euro rear fog light switch, Euro aspheric mirrors, rear power outlets, Euro split armrest, Lidatek, remote V-1, Cocomats, beach sand, $10 clutch stop mod. 1998 Volvo V70T5 226K, 5-speed, original clutch (third clutch pedal!), aspheric driver's mirror, E-code headlights, IPD sway bar, strut tower brace & skidplate.
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07-01-2012, 03:33 PM | #26 |
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2008 E91 36K, 6-speed, RWD, Alpine, Terra, Xenons, ZSP, ZCW, ZPP, PDC, CA, alarm, M shifter and M brake handle, Euro rear fog light switch, Euro aspheric mirrors, rear power outlets, Euro split armrest, Lidatek, remote V-1, Cocomats, beach sand, $10 clutch stop mod. 1998 Volvo V70T5 226K, 5-speed, original clutch (third clutch pedal!), aspheric driver's mirror, E-code headlights, IPD sway bar, strut tower brace & skidplate.
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07-01-2012, 06:57 PM | #27 | |
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Not sure what your issue is specifically, but my car has sat 6 weeks in the garage, in the winter, and fired right up. So imho German cars are not "hard on batteries." The battery doesn't care what country the vehicle is from. It seems like a lot of people have a problem with paying $280 for an OEM battery installed and programmed. I suppose there are those who saved $80 to $100, and those who didn't have luck as such. Again, it's not rocket science. If a battery is only lasting 2 years, it's not the battery, it's something else. I think you need to consider that having an OEM battery fail every two years is not the norm. but I can see that you want to try Sears or Wal Mart, can't hurt. If it works out for you, I still believe that BMW batteries last more than two years. Have you load tested the battery that failed at 2 years? |
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07-01-2012, 11:23 PM | #28 |
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New aftermarket battery for about $130....never coded or anything...it's been almost a year with no issues.
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07-01-2012, 11:55 PM | #29 |
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Whats the part number for the OEM battery only?
I am having delayed starting as well. It happened in the past but its becoming more frequent nowadays. Still on the original battery from 2005. |
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07-02-2012, 02:44 AM | #30 | |
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07-02-2012, 06:19 AM | #31 | |
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If your battery is 7 years old, congratulations! But I'd probably go ahead and replace it, because when a battery fails completely it's usually at exactly the wrong time in exactly the wrong place. I don't think the Euro car engineers have come to terms with the possibility that a typical household in their US buyer demographic may have 5 cars and they may not be driven every day. As others have said, if I wanted to plug my cars into a wall outlet every day, I would have bought a Nissan Leaf. Interesting that on the Japanese cars the batteries are no big deal. They fail like clockwork every 4 years, there are four 10mm nuts to undo (no 7-page DIYs on changing the battery on the Toyota board!), the dealers keep them in stock and the whole escapade takes about an hour of time, total, and costs about $100. It's not rocket science except on a German car. Why make anything simple when you can make it complicated?
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2008 E91 36K, 6-speed, RWD, Alpine, Terra, Xenons, ZSP, ZCW, ZPP, PDC, CA, alarm, M shifter and M brake handle, Euro rear fog light switch, Euro aspheric mirrors, rear power outlets, Euro split armrest, Lidatek, remote V-1, Cocomats, beach sand, $10 clutch stop mod. 1998 Volvo V70T5 226K, 5-speed, original clutch (third clutch pedal!), aspheric driver's mirror, E-code headlights, IPD sway bar, strut tower brace & skidplate.
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07-02-2012, 07:28 AM | #32 | |
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Yeah it seems like most German companies choose "the road less travelled" which happens to be the "more difficult for no reason" way when it comes to electronics. I'm curious what kind of cycle loads the BMW would put on a controlled battery vs. any Honda on the same battery. All these damn sensors, resistance checking, adjusting electrical extra must tax these batteries well. That and the fact they're designed to work inside the passenger cabin sort of make sense why they're so damn expensive. I'm going to run a few battery tests through autozone or something before replacing, and then again after. Curious for some measurable signs of wear / when to replace. |
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07-02-2012, 07:47 AM | #33 |
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do these battery chargers that run through the cigarette lighter outlet really work? i thought power can't be transfered to/from the power outlets in the car once it is off and in sleep mode.
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09-12-2012, 12:15 AM | #34 |
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hell i gotta 07 328 and they want 500$ to replace the battery. i was like W.T.F? this is my second battery ive gone through. note to self dont put huge soundsystem in a bmw.
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10-05-2012, 08:23 PM | #35 |
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Interstate MTP-91
I got an interstate battery installed today for $215 at a local BMW repair shop. My old battery didn't die but the car is almost 7 years old so I wanted to be proactive for the winter. The shop I took it to made sure the car took the battery without any errors. Paying $500 at the dealership is nuts!
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10-06-2012, 02:23 PM | #36 |
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10-06-2012, 02:24 PM | #37 |
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10-06-2012, 03:03 PM | #38 |
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10-30-2012, 06:46 PM | #39 | |
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Everyone: I have a guy that is local and is going to do everything including battery for around $105. Every BMW owner on the island goes to him and swears by him, ive also had a capacitor changed by him and nothing wrong so far, so i trust him. One thing is I have never heard of a Bosch battery, and i know they just stick their label on them, so does anyone have any advice? also im getting the error code CC-ID 229, which i think just means low battery. Ive looked at others post and thats what 229 means but they always post MME/MMD in front of the number so i dont know if im correct. Can anyone tell me if That code actually means i need to replace my battery? Reason being that the shop wants to check it with the computer ( a extra $40 to do) the check if its the battery for sure and not something else. If possible i want to avoid spending more money if it is indeed the battery (which i already believe it is due to the yellow battery symbol and the error code i see when entering the menu.) so in short dont want to waste the money if it is the battery, checking for something that its not. Can anyone help me figure this out that has had this experience?
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10-30-2012, 06:49 PM | #40 | |
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