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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Wash, Wax, Detailing and Cosmetic protection/repairs > Help with supplies...



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      01-01-2008, 06:42 PM   #1
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Help with supplies...

So I'm looking to get into buying some detail products with the warm weather coming soon (few months)....... How many polishes will I need? ETC... Any help is amazing!

Here are the products.. I'm looking into:

Shampoo: Poor Boy's - Super Slick and Suds

Foam Gun - Gilmour Foamaster II

Quick Detailer (Days after the wash) - Poor Boy's Swipe & Wipe

Polish - PO106ff Ceramic Clear Coat Polish ~ Am I only suppose to use one polish? or?

Wax - Natty's Red Paste Wax

Wheel Sealant - Wheel Sealant

Tire? - Bold 'n Bright ~ tires only right?

Glass - Invisible Glass ~ I've heard this is good for tinted windows..

Interior - Aerospace Protectant

That's all I got so far.... I'm not worried about the engine bay right YET. It's new and crisp.

As far as washing machines, towels, buffers.. I picked so far:

Buffer - Flex XC 3401 VRG

Pads? I'm unsure how that works.......

Drying - Waffle Weave Drying Towel - Maybe I'll invest in the vac-n-blow in the future......

Washmit - Sheepskin Wash Mitt

Buckets - I've always did the two-bucket wash.. soap/water...... but will I need that since I'll use the foam gun?

As of a light, I have one of those powerful lights that you use when you put up tile, not sure the extact name but it looks like some of the lights i've seen some of you guys use in pictures......
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      01-01-2008, 06:51 PM   #2
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Here is what i got last week, after disgusting w/ George (Detailed Image) after a few pms. i've got a PC7424 last week as a gift. my car's a Sparkling Graphite. (i just went ahead and got one of each pads even tho he said that i didnt need the Orange one w/ the polish im getting).

check w/ him and see what best fits your need. he sure knows his stuff.


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      01-01-2008, 07:04 PM   #3
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Thanks most of that stuff, he told me about
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      01-01-2008, 07:06 PM   #4
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You're list looks very solid so far. It looks like you spent some time researching some things. I'll offer a few suggestions to think about.

Give your paint the "plastic bag test" to see if you can benefit from using a clay bar. If your paint feels rough to the touch (putting your fingers in a plastic bag will help amplify the feeling), then you probably have some embedded contamination that usually requires a clay bar to remove. Using a clay bar (if needed) will also enhance your results with your polish and wax.

For pad recommendations with the PO106FF, I've been having great luck with a white polishing pad with this product. If you are looking for a little more bite to it, then step up to a more aggressive pad, like the orange light cutting pad. If the imperfections in your paint aren't that bad, then the Flex and PO106FF with a white pad combination may be all you need. If your paint has really been neglected and you have deeper swirls or scratches, you would want to consider a more aggressive polish to use before the PO106FF. I'd recommend using either the Menzerna Super Intensive Polish or regular Intensive Polish with an orange light cutting pad as a more aggressive option. If you'd like to snap some pictures of your paint under the right lighting revealing your imperfections, I'd be happy to give you a better assessment to see if the PO106FF might get the job done alone.

I didn't see anything for leather care on your list, but if you are looking for an easy to use product that will clean, lightly condition, UV protect and has a nice leather scent to it, Poorboy's Leather Stuff is a great option for new vehicles.

Stoner Invisible glass is safe on tinted windows.

One last thing I'd point out, I didn't see a sealant on your list, so you'll want to make sure you reapply your wax every 4 weeks to ensure your vehicle is properly protected year round. I'd say Natty's Red lasts an average of 4 - 6 weeks.

As far as the buckets go, you'll at least want 1 bucket. Use this as your rinse bucket for your mitt. After spraying an area with the foam, you'll use your mitt to clean your vehicle, then dunk the mitt into the rinse bucket to help release any contamination it picked up. If you don't have one already, a Grit Guard Insert would be ideal to put on the bottom of your rinse bucket.

I'm looking forward to hearing about your results, it looks like you picked out a great package!

George
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      01-01-2008, 08:19 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
You're list looks very solid so far. It looks like you spent some time researching some things. I'll offer a few suggestions to think about.

Give your paint the "plastic bag test" to see if you can benefit from using a clay bar. If your paint feels rough to the touch (putting your fingers in a plastic bag will help amplify the feeling), then you probably have some embedded contamination that usually requires a clay bar to remove. Using a clay bar (if needed) will also enhance your results with your polish and wax.

For pad recommendations with the PO106FF, I've been having great luck with a white polishing pad with this product. If you are looking for a little more bite to it, then step up to a more aggressive pad, like the orange light cutting pad. If the imperfections in your paint aren't that bad, then the Flex and PO106FF with a white pad combination may be all you need. If your paint has really been neglected and you have deeper swirls or scratches, you would want to consider a more aggressive polish to use before the PO106FF. I'd recommend using either the Menzerna Super Intensive Polish or regular Intensive Polish with an orange light cutting pad as a more aggressive option. If you'd like to snap some pictures of your paint under the right lighting revealing your imperfections, I'd be happy to give you a better assessment to see if the PO106FF might get the job done alone.

I didn't see anything for leather care on your list, but if you are looking for an easy to use product that will clean, lightly condition, UV protect and has a nice leather scent to it, Poorboy's Leather Stuff is a great option for new vehicles.

Stoner Invisible glass is safe on tinted windows.

One last thing I'd point out, I didn't see a sealant on your list, so you'll want to make sure you reapply your wax every 4 weeks to ensure your vehicle is properly protected year round. I'd say Natty's Red lasts an average of 4 - 6 weeks.

As far as the buckets go, you'll at least want 1 bucket. Use this as your rinse bucket for your mitt. After spraying an area with the foam, you'll use your mitt to clean your vehicle, then dunk the mitt into the rinse bucket to help release any contamination it picked up. If you don't have one already, a Grit Guard Insert would be ideal to put on the bottom of your rinse bucket.

I'm looking forward to hearing about your results, it looks like you picked out a great package!

George
Thanks George, yes I think I'm going to need a clay bar since..... the one I use to clay (Came with the zaino starters kit..) my old car, isn't around anymore and the lube I can't find either..

This baby is about a month or so old right to this day, so impressions I say I ran it thru 3 washes (damn dealer after they broke something on my car) so.... I can try and take some pics under halogens for you.

So the process goes:

Wash/foam
Dry
Polish

glaze/seal/wax or glaze/wax or glaze/seal or just simply wax or seal

right?

when does clay come in?

What does glaze do?
(Interior after/before/whatever)

Can I do any damage to my car with using after of these products/the flex?

When do you presume to have the flex in? Its very cold in NYC, I assume you would know, hence your location, so outside washes are not really going to happen by me because we shut off the water outside here (since we don't use in the winter)...... I was wondering, say I go to the car wash and get the just a standard wash/no wash/wax whatever...... I take her home... dry most of what I can.... Then proceed to do whatever doesn't force me to wash the car again.... so (polish/wax/seal) -- would that work?

I'm really interested in the flex but I keep hearing about this 'rotary' or something like that on the detail forum I'm apart of.....

Thanks guys.
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      01-01-2008, 09:10 PM   #6
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Tire? - Bold 'n Bright ~ tires only right? Stoner, the people who make invisible glass also make a tire shine product. Personally I like that stuff. It doesn't drip or run.
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      01-02-2008, 08:18 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAMEOVR View Post
Thanks George, yes I think I'm going to need a clay bar since..... the one I use to clay (Came with the zaino starters kit..) my old car, isn't around anymore and the lube I can't find either..

This baby is about a month or so old right to this day, so impressions I say I ran it thru 3 washes (damn dealer after they broke something on my car) so.... I can try and take some pics under halogens for you.

So the process goes:

Wash/foam
Dry
Polish

glaze/seal/wax or glaze/wax or glaze/seal or just simply wax or seal

right? You got it, or seal and wax w/o the glaze.

when does clay come in? Using a clay bar should be done after a wax but before polishing.

What does glaze do? A glaze will help hide some minor imperfections and in some cases add a little more depth and gloss to the paint by using clay and oil based fillers. The downside is it can hinder the durability of the sealant or wax you layer over the glaze so there are trade offs. Personally, if you are opting for a Flex and investing in the higher quality Menzerna polishes, I'd rather spend that same amount of time that you'd spend applying the glaze and correct more imperfections.
(Interior after/before/whatever)

Can I do any damage to my car with using after of these products/the flex?

If you take your time and read up on the proper ways to use the machine, the chances are minimal. You can cause damage with any buffer, including the Porter Cable, if you do not know how to properly operate the machine. Are you going to burn the clear coat with the Flex and the PO106FF or Super Intensive Polish / Intensive Polish? No, not unless you are applying 40lbs of pressure and keeping it on the same spot without moving it. The easiest way I see people damage their vehicle is places like under the side mirrors, where they are buffing the vertical surface and the edge of the backing plate touches under the mirror housing. Things with 90 degree angles are the places you will most likely need to be the most careful, and around trim.

When do you presume to have the flex in? Apparently they are on their way via boat from Germany, and the hold up is going to be how long they sit in customs. Flex North America estimated around February, but we did get a surprise shipment in once already. Right now we have 1 or 2 people pre-ordered so it'd be safe to say if you order within the next week or two you'll get on that first shipment we receive in. Its very cold in NYC, I assume you would know, hence your location, so outside washes are not really going to happen by me because we shut off the water outside here (since we don't use in the winter)...... I was wondering, say I go to the car wash and get the just a standard wash/no wash/wax whatever...... I take her home... dry most of what I can.... Then proceed to do whatever doesn't force me to wash the car again.... so (polish/wax/seal) -- would that work? Yes, I've done that in the past myself. I'll pre-treat the entire vehicle with a degreaser, treat the wheels, etc. take it through a touchless wash, then bring it home to do the rest. You can also clay w/o re-washing again, but you'd want to use a quick detailer solution and wipe off the residue after each section. Polishing afterwards will remove any remains of excess clay lube.

I'm really interested in the flex but I keep hearing about this 'rotary' or something like that on the detail forum I'm apart of..... Let me know which one and I'd be happy to give my input on it.

Thanks guys.
Let me know if you have any other questions I can answer for you.

George
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      01-02-2008, 08:38 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
Let me know if you have any other questions I can answer for you.

George
Thanks George. I think I'll just stick it out and chill with the flex, and learn slowly... on one of the lowest settings, I guess it will take a little longer to break down the polish, but can't cause that much harm, better to learn the right way then to ruin someone. People talk for the flex, since the power levels, so thats a good thing. The other one I was talking about was the UDM, i think...

Someone also recommended......for a sealant: Ultima PGP.. can you shed some light on that?

And for the quick detailers: quickshine or FK1 424

I found out the rims I was going to get doesn't come with a clearcoat on the lip or center, so just clean them as I was going to clean the car? I assume bold and bright is for the tires?

Thanks for the help, can't wait to start detailing.........
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      01-02-2008, 09:59 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAMEOVR View Post
Thanks George. I think I'll just stick it out and chill with the flex, and learn slowly... on one of the lowest settings, I guess it will take a little longer to break down the polish, but can't cause that much harm, better to learn the right way then to ruin someone. People talk for the flex, since the power levels, so thats a good thing. The other one I was talking about was the UDM, i think...

UDM isn't much more than a Porter Cable 7424 with a slightly bigger motor. The Flex is in an entire different league than the PC and UDM, you won't be disappointed.

Someone also recommended......for a sealant: Ultima PGP.. can you shed some light on that?

Personally, I never feel too highly about brands that are hyped up by companies who sell them. If I'm not mistaken David B from Autopia owns Ultima or at least the rights to it. Take what you read about those brands with a grain of salt, especially if it's on his site. I haven't used the product, so I cannot comment on it's performance, but if you got a recommendation from a trusted detailer than I say go for it.

And for the quick detailers: quickshine or FK1 424 Both are great products. Quickshine probably has a little more cleaning characteristics in it, but the FK1 leaves the paint really slick and gives a nice pop to it.

I found out the rims I was going to get doesn't come with a clearcoat on the lip or center, so just clean them as I was going to clean the car? I assume bold and bright is for the tires? Yep, I'd protect them with the wheel sealant and wash them as you would wash your paint. Reapply the wheel sealant as needed.

Thanks for the help, can't wait to start detailing.........
Looking forward to hearing about your results, and what you ended up with!

George
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      01-02-2008, 06:47 PM   #10
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Looking forward to hearing about your results, and what you ended up with!

George
Thanks George, you shall see my order shortly !
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      01-03-2008, 04:24 PM   #11
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George I tried calling around....4:30 est, but seems as you werent... in.. Let me know!
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      01-03-2008, 08:18 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAMEOVR View Post
George I tried calling around....4:30 est, but seems as you werent... in.. Let me know!
Sorry about that, I called it a day a little early as I wasn't feeling so well. I'm on now trying to catch up with things I missed. I'm going to shoot you a PM.

George
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