[tarponman85]

Interested to see what answers everyone has for the previous post. My AP always registers .1 at idle.

[Jeffman]

Originally Posted by dominick

so if im parked and im showing .2 or .3 on the cobb means I have a vacum leak correct?

Hmmm...mine says 0.0 psi. I'm nearly at sea level. Here's a WAG: Could your 0.3 be the result of an atmospheric correction for you? I think absolute pressure is 14.7 psi at sea level, so a few hundred feet - or thousand feet could cause the correction to be easily off by a few tenths. Unless you had a 0.0 psi earlier and did a modification to the vacuum system, I wouldn't necesarily jump to a vacuum leak being the cause of the 0.3 psi reading while idling.

[dominick]

I keep getting the 2abc code and p30fe and had someone mentioned that I shouldnt be reading anything at boost while in park which would be a sign of a vacuum leak. I'm just trying to see what others are reading cuz he has a jb4 so might be different. I never checked to see what boost was sitting at before issues came up. Thanks for all the help by the way.

[co_pa]

just getting into tuning this n54 w/ my cobb. a lot to learn (came to the right thread) and will with bookmarks, stickies and time. going to order an intercooler soon. until then, want to load up the right map:

current: 93 octane (no other mods)
next month: 93 octane + DCIs

want to maximize performance without going overboard until i get the logging down and other parts installed. thanks.

[Tag]

I posted this question in the n55 forum by accident.

Now that I've found the right thread I'll ask again hoping someone here knows the answer...

I'm trying get some information on Stage 1 aggressive maps for AccessPORT regarding octane. The stock ECU can detect the octane level and adjust. For instance, if I put in 89 octane it will automatically detune itself to avoid damage from pre-ignition. If I run the 93 octane aggressive map and end up filling with 91 octane gas because 93 was simply not available in the location I was in would the reprogrammed ECU be smart enough to detect the drop in octane and adjust?

If I find myself in that situation I would just put in a couple of gallons of 91 until I was able to get to a 93 octane pump and not have to really much. I don't like the idea of sitting at a gas station flashing a map before I can safely drive off and then doing the same again after I refill with 93. That would be such a PIA.

[Ænema]

Originally Posted by Tag

I posted this question in the n55 forum by accident.

Now that I've found the right thread I'll ask again hoping someone here knows the answer...

I'm trying get some information on Stage 1 aggressive maps for AccessPORT regarding octane. The stock ECU can detect the octane level and adjust. For instance, if I put in 89 octane it will automatically detune itself to avoid damage from pre-ignition. If I run the 93 octane aggressive map and end up filling with 91 octane gas because 93 was simply not available in the location I was in would the reprogrammed ECU be smart enough to detect the drop in octane and adjust?

If I find myself in that situation I would just put in a couple of gallons of 91 until I was able to get to a 93 octane pump and not have to really much. I don't like the idea of sitting at a gas station flashing a map before I can safely drive off and then doing the same again after I refill with 93. That would be such a PIA.

yeah, just drive conservatively and you'll be fine.

[co_pa]

Originally Posted by co_pa

just getting into tuning this n54 w/ my cobb. a lot to learn (came to the right thread) and will with bookmarks, stickies and time. going to order an intercooler soon. until then, want to load up the right map:

current: 93 octane (no other mods)
next month: 93 octane + DCIs

want to maximize performance without going overboard until i get the logging down and other parts installed. thanks.

i should have been more clear in my post. any input on what maps i should run for each of my set-ups? assuming:
stage1 aggressive for just the 93
stage1+aggressive adding the dci's

TIA for the confirm!

[JStang]

Originally Posted by co_pa

i should have been more clear in my post. any input on what maps i should run for each of my set-ups? assuming:
stage1 aggressive for just the 93
stage1+aggressive adding the dci's

TIA for the confirm!

Stage 1+ requires an aftermarket FMIC. You need to stick with stage 1 aggressive if you have no supporting mods or DCI only.

[co_pa]

Originally Posted by JStang

Stage 1+ requires an aftermarket FMIC. You need to stick with stage 1 aggressive if you have no supporting mods or DCI only.

perfect. thanks. will continue to read up and looking to be 1+ ASAP.

[MidwestGolfBum]

Originally Posted by co_pa

perfect. thanks. will continue to read up and looking to be 1+ ASAP.

If you ever have a question about what map you should be running with your current parts, the maps section of the cobb site has all of the parts that are either required/suggested for each stage as well.

[peasouped]

Quick question...This may have been asked I just dont want to go through 313 pages if I can get a quick answer. Im about to buy a used cobb for my 09 135i, but heres my question. The cobb im planning to purchased was used on an 08 335xi. Can that cobb be used on my car (Yes it's unmarried). Id imagine I can plug and play right away or would I have to go online to get the maps for a 135i. Both previous car and my car are steptronic. Thanks very much peeps

[DallasBoosted]

Originally Posted by peasouped

Quick question...This may have been asked I just dont want to go through 313 pages if I can get a quick answer. Im about to buy a used cobb for my 09 135i, but heres my question. The cobb im planning to purchased was used on an 08 335xi. Can that cobb be used on my car (Yes it's unmarried). Id imagine I can plug and play right away or would I have to go online to get the maps for a 135i. Both previous car and my car are steptronic. Thanks very much peeps

Depends which maps are on the AP and which ECU revision you have and which the other guy had. If you both had the same ECU revision and/or all the default maps are still on the AP, you'll be good to go. Hard to tell without knowing.

Just plug it in and see what happens.

[peasouped]

Originally Posted by DallasBoosted

Depends which maps are on the AP and which ECU revision you have and which the other guy had. If you both had the same ECU revision and/or all the default maps are still on the AP, you'll be good to go. Hard to tell without knowing.

Just plug it in and see what happens.

I know the Cobb is less than a year old with all the normals maps on it still. When I plug in will it give me my ECU revision info if needed? I popped on the cobb site and I found the maps but It was confusing to look at lol. I had a cobb on my Legacy gt but that was plug and play. So now I feel like a noob again. Thanks for the info

[DallasBoosted]

Originally Posted by peasouped

I know the Cobb is less than a year old with all the normals maps on it still. When I plug in will it give me my ECU revision info if needed? I popped on the cobb site and I found the maps but It was confusing to look at lol. I had a cobb on my Legacy gt but that was plug and play. So now I feel like a noob again. Thanks for the info

Yes it will tell you which maps are appropriate for your ECU.

[peasouped]

Originally Posted by DallasBoosted

Yes it will tell you which maps are appropriate for your ECU.

You the man!

[Tag]

Originally Posted by Tag

I posted this question in the n55 forum by accident.

Now that I've found the right thread I'll ask again hoping someone here knows the answer...

I'm trying get some information on Stage 1 aggressive maps for AccessPORT regarding octane. The stock ECU can detect the octane level and adjust. For instance, if I put in 89 octane it will automatically detune itself to avoid damage from pre-ignition. If I run the 93 octane aggressive map and end up filling with 91 octane gas because 93 was simply not available in the location I was in would the reprogrammed ECU be smart enough to detect the drop in octane and adjust?

If I find myself in that situation I would just put in a couple of gallons of 91 until I was able to get to a 93 octane pump and not have to really much. I don't like the idea of sitting at a gas station flashing a map before I can safely drive off and then doing the same again after I refill with 93. That would be such a PIA.

I guess I can drive conservatively but it still sucks because you'll need to reflash to make sure you don't run into issues. I asked Cobb directly and this was what they said.

"Thank you for your inquiry. The DME would pull timing if it detected detonation, so in a sense it would "de-tune" itself. This is not an ideal case though as the detonation would have occurred before the timing corrections. The octane we recommend is the minimum that should be used due to the additional power we make. If you run into a case where the minimum octane fuel is not readily available, it would be best to flash the lower octane map and refrain from driving the vehicle aggressive."

[Pseudo Nim]

Originally Posted by Tag

I guess I can drive conservatively but it still sucks because you'll need to reflash to make sure you don't run into issues. I asked Cobb directly and this was what they said.

"Thank you for your inquiry. The DME would pull timing if it detected detonation, so in a sense it would "de-tune" itself. This is not an ideal case though as the detonation would have occurred before the timing corrections. The octane we recommend is the minimum that should be used due to the additional power we make. If you run into a case where the minimum octane fuel is not readily available, it would be best to flash the lower octane map and refrain from driving the vehicle aggressive."

I actually did this for a while. I know it's not good, etc etc, fair enough. But I experienced no knocking, and the car behaved properly, so in my case, it was not a concern at all (I ran Aggressive+FMIC 93 on a car with no FMIC and 91 oct, hehe).

[ajsalida]

From an old supercharger project I worked on, I learned that it takes as much as 4 times the amount of timing to be pulled that caused it in the first place. So that say if the timing were such that at one point there is no detonation, but at 1 deg more there is, the ECU pulls up to 4 deg to stop it. For a lot of reasons mainly detonation cylinder is a lot hotter.

Do not know the algorithm BMW uses but I assure you based on personal experience it is very conservative, pulling a lot of timing out. I think it is a big mistake to think these cars detect octane, they just detect knock/detonation and dial back timing hard whenever they do, and for a long time. You really don't want to rely on this to save your engine running an aggressive tune on lower than recommended octane gas. The problems happen esp. on modded cars where the amount of timing that can be pulled is not enough to stop the detonation on higher boost levels, or at least not soon enough.

[Tag]

I don't know why I didn't think of this before, I suppose I could just keep some octane booster in the trunk in case I can't readily find 91 or higher. Anyone have a recommendation?

[ajsalida]

Originally Posted by Tag

I don't know why I didn't think of this before, I suppose I could just keep some octane booster in the trunk in case I can't readily find 91 or higher. Anyone have a recommendation?

I always do this in case of a tank of bad gas out on the road. You'd be surprised how many places sell low octane fuel and label it as premium out in the boonies. Just have a few cans of 104+ in the trunk. That plus I carry the cobb at all times just in case.

[sofresh]

Originally Posted by JHR

No boost idling. Zero.

Originally Posted by dominick

so if im parked and im showing .2 or .3 on the cobb means I have a vacum leak correct?

Originally Posted by tarponman85

Interested to see what answers everyone has for the previous post. My AP always registers .1 at idle.

Originally Posted by JHR

Hmmm...mine says 0.0 psi. I'm nearly at sea level. Here's a WAG: Could your 0.3 be the result of an atmospheric correction for you? I think absolute pressure is 14.7 psi at sea level, so a few hundred feet - or thousand feet could cause the correction to be easily off by a few tenths. Unless you had a 0.0 psi earlier and did a modification to the vacuum system, I wouldn't necesarily jump to a vacuum leak being the cause of the 0.3 psi reading while idling.

I just installed my AP today and while in park boost was reading -9

[CT335xi]

Originally Posted by sofresh

I just installed my AP today and while in park boost was reading -9

Mine also reads about -9 to-9.5 at idle in park and about -11 cruising around.