[DAN]

Just thought I'd post a pic or two of how the Parrot mki looks on my non-idrive HiFi e90.

Lots of posts on parrot's website complained of poor quality audio, but from the line-out feeds into the aux under the armrest, it sounds great - noise and distortion free. This is with the Harman-Kardon HiFi option and external speaker fitted where the centre speaker would go on a model with Logic7 (bought the panel with the speaker grill) for the phone calls so the car's original cabling / amp feeds aren't tampered with - just the mute feed and power connected on the harness. (my modified harness was left over from my previous ck3000 evo install)

The screen works great in the angle between the windscreen and dash as it is in comfortable eyeline without being distracting.

[2kaccordocoupe]

nice setup

[ibeclueless]

nice

[Camembert]

Hello Dan, I'm going to install a mki9100 exactly as you did : line in + { mute + power } via SOT harness.

Three questions :

- Because the sound is incoming via Aux, how is the mute working? If I'm listening to the radio, will the Head unit switch to the aux input? That would be weird.
- Is there a specific action for connecting the mute, or is it managed by the SOT harness?
- I'm planing to get the ignition from the cigaret lighter, unfortunately it is powered only when the engine is on, while I would prefer something like the radio or some other stuff that fires up when the key is plugged. Any advice? For instance, if I'm talking with somebody and I decide to turn the engine off, the BT ******ion is lost, that's silly I think.

Tkx by advance

[vp fiberglass]

Very nice. Excellent use of the unused center channel location.

[DAN]

Hi Camembert - sorry for late reply.

My setup uses the external speaker, fed by the left front speaker cable of the parrot. When a call comes in, the parrot triggers the mute function of the radio, reads 'telephone active' on the display and calls come through the external speaker I added positioned in the centre grill in the dashboard. The aux feed is only for music but has to be set this way in a menu on the parrot.

The mute cable is connected from the parrot to one of 3 choices of cable on the sot harness labelled 1 2 or 3. Can't remember which number but I used the one that leads to pin 10 on the head unit.

As for power, if you are NOT using with the unika, it has to be connected to a permanent live feed AND a switched ignition feed at the same time as well as earth. When you switch off the ignition, the parrot waits a couple seconds, shows 'goodbye' on it's display and just transfers any active calls to the handset. If you are using the steering wheel controls 'unika' you only have the permanent power feed and don't connect the switched feed.

Hope this helps...

Forgot to say... The external speaker was just a cheap car speaker from a pack of two from maplin. Can't remember the size off the top of my head, but it sits in that centre position perfectly as the mouldings / placeholder for a centre speaker are already under there.

[lupelopez1]

very nice...

[Camembert]

Thanks a lot for your explanation. In the mean time I did the work. I had another goal, I wanted to stream music with a maximum quality and in the same time use bluetooth for call, GPS navigation an so on. So I had to plug the parrot on the line in of the car, and the mute cable is useless in this case. But everything work as it should (except that on my parrot the right audio channel has no voltage, I had to use the two left line out channels, that's a pity.

Here are pics of my setup.

[TommyLights]

Originally Posted by DAN

Hi Camembert - sorry for late reply.

My setup uses the external speaker, fed by the left front speaker cable of the parrot. When a call comes in, the parrot triggers the mute function of the radio, reads 'telephone active' on the display and calls come through the external speaker I added positioned in the centre grill in the dashboard. The aux feed is only for music but has to be set this way in a menu on the parrot.

The mute cable is connected from the parrot to one of 3 choices of cable on the sot harness labelled 1 2 or 3. Can't remember which number but I used the one that leads to pin 10 on the head unit.

As for power, if you are NOT using with the unika, it has to be connected to a permanent live feed AND a switched ignition feed at the same time as well as earth. When you switch off the ignition, the parrot waits a couple seconds, shows 'goodbye' on it's display and just transfers any active calls to the handset. If you are using the steering wheel controls 'unika' you only have the permanent power feed and don't connect the switched feed.

Hope this helps...

Forgot to say... The external speaker was just a cheap car speaker from a pack of two from maplin. Can't remember the size off the top of my head, but it sits in that centre position perfectly as the mouldings / placeholder for a centre speaker are already under there.

^^It Sounds like you fed the left speaker side of the Parrot speaker line in meant to go directly to the speaker in through the Aux line.....is that what you did? There are 2 of those lines, so you used the left, correct? Why do you need the external speaker if you tapped into the Aux line?

That doesnt sound right......why not use one of the 2 separate line out feeds the unit has if you are doing that? Wouldnt that let you use the system's speakers?

Or instead tap into the two pairs speaker lines coming out of the amp going directly to the speakers themselves (for me that makes sense because I have logic 7 and that is what I am planning to do).

Sorry for all the questions, just trying to get all the info I need before I start this tomorrow.

[DAN]

Thanks a lot for your explanation. In the mean time I did the work. I had another goal, I wanted to stream music with a maximum quality and in the same time use bluetooth for call, GPS navigation an so on. So I had to plug the parrot on the line in of the car, and the mute cable is useless in this case. But everything work as it should (except that on my parrot the right audio channel has no voltage, I had to use the two left line out channels, that's a pity.

Nice. I considered that position as well and also above the centre air vents on the dash but decided on the furthest position for eye line. Only thing is it becomes difficult to read in direct sunlight.

So why is it you're not using the mute? I didn't think the phone calls would come down the line-out connection? And if they did, you'd have to make sure you're on AUX first to hear any calls...?

Regarding the quality, I found that the volume controls and bass boost & eq fx also affect the Line-out AS WELL as the speaker level outputs. I would normally expect a line level output to be fixed. I turned off all the artificial boosts and eq's as I think it was pushing more voltage down the line level than it actually should, and was distorting.

When you say that your right channel doesn't work, I'm guessing you mean your line-level output, not the speaker speaker level outputs? You should send it back if it's faulty otherwise you're listening to all your music in mono

[DAN]

^^It Sounds like you fed the left speaker side of the Parrot speaker line in meant to go directly to the speaker in through the Aux line.....is that what you did? There are 2 of those lines, so you used the left, correct? Why do you need the external speaker if you tapped into the Aux line?

That doesnt sound right......why not use one of the 2 separate line out feeds the unit has if you are doing that? Wouldnt that let you use the system's speakers?

Or instead tap into the two pairs speaker lines coming out of the amp going directly to the speakers themselves (for me that makes sense because I have logic 7 and that is what I am planning to do).

Sorry for all the questions, just trying to get all the info I need before I start this tomorrow.

Hi tomz

No, I've not sent speaker level through the aux, the level would be way to high... Let me try and explain, although this may turn into a long post - sorry in advance! Here goes then.....


PARROT LINE-LEVEL OUTPUT LEFT/RIGHT/COMBINED EARTH: Fed directly to car's aux-in in the centre armrest via a 3.5mm jack I soldered on (these wires come bare). This Line level is only used when playing music from the parrot, and appears in stereo on all the car's speakers (as anything would when plugged into that aux input)

PARROT SPEAKER-LEVEL OUTPUTS (ISO PLUGS): Normally fitted to a harness at back of head unit, effectively placing the parrot between the headunit of the car and the cars speakers. HOWEVER: because I have the HiFi package which uses a separate amplifier in the boot, doing it this way would be pumping speaker level voltage into the amp which is designed only to take LINE-level signals. This would cause popping, distortion (believe me, I tried it) and I'd imagine eventually damage to the amp I guess.

I still connected the harness as I use it to tap into the mute and power feeds, but havn't connected the parrot's speaker plugs. I had to modify it to suite. Have a read of this post from a while ago when I was fitting a ck3000 evo before I eventually upgraded to the mki9100 - it has more details on the harness & pin numbers.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=229289

So..... NONE of the speaker level outputs from the parrot are connected electrically to my car in any way. They are all left hanging and un-connected apart from one of them, which is connected to a cheap speaker I bought from maplin (the required impedance is specified somewhere in the parrots instructions) that sits in that center position as it was a convenient place and not in use by my system (it was a blank panel, but I bought the speaker grill version that logic7 systems have to replace it). So this speaker-level connection has ONLY the voice calls on it. I only get phone calls on this one speaker - NOT on my car's hifi speakers. As you already have logic7, this position will unfortunately already be in use, so this isn't an ideal solution for you. I guess you'd have to find somewhere else to put the extra speaker, or think up a different solution...

Whenever a call comes in or out, the head unit mutes any source that is currently selected, be it radio, cd, aux (parrot music player) and I hear the phone call through the extra speaker.


I didn't want to tap into the cars' speaker lines AFTER the hifi amplifier for these reasons:

A) Its too much hassle trying to extend the parrots speaker output cables and trying to route them all the way from the front of the car to the boot, just for the sake of having phone calls on all speakers in the car. The one speaker I added at the front is absolutely fine for phone calls.

B) In any case, I would obviously still listen to any music from the parrot via the LINE-LEVEL-output of the parrot into the car's aux in the armrest as the quality of the car's HiFi amp will sound a hell of a lot better than using the parrot's cheap built-in amp to drive the car's speakers.

C) Connecting the parrot's speaker outputs post-amp effectively causes both amps to work against each other, most likely causing damage to both Parrot and the expensive amp in the boot!

[TommyLights]

Very nice writeup Dan........I have the same setup, but with Logic 7. I will be replicating the line in setup, it's very impressive.....as for the Unika controls, I still will have to find the Can Bus lines to connect. Did you take pics of that, or do you remember the lines you cut into? I wanted to be sure before I cut. I also wasnt able to track down the mute button. Thanks for responding, I know that was a long writeup!!

[DAN]

Yes - if you click on the link on my last post, that is a thread from when I was tring to work out the install for the ck3000 eve with multican - I documented pin numbers etc on there I think - should be similar to the unika.

Meanwhile I'll see if I can find the diagrams when I get back tonight...

[TommyLights]

Great, thanks for all the help!

[DAN]

Have been taking apart the car and taking pictures of the parrot install. Holy sh*t - I'd forgotten the mess of wires and what a pain it is to get the air con unit out!! I don't have time right now but when I get a chance I'll edit over this post and attach the photos and attempt to explain the chaos depicted in them!

[1QuikWS6]

So, just trying to sum up the content of all the threads involved - depending on unit purchased, you need the following:

Parrot CK3000 EVO
Parrot Multican
4ohm Speaker (Size?)
Center Logic7 Speaker Grill from BMW

-OR-

Parrot Mki9100
Parrot UNiKA
4ohm Speaker (Size?)
Center Logic7 Speaker Grill from BMW

So there are no fancy wiring harnesses needed other than the Multican or UNiKA? I remember seeing a quite complicated wiring harness that plugs between HU and Parrot that works with new fiber optic signals to amp - is this only used if you actually want to use the existing car speakers for phone sound?

Apparently the CK3000 does not work with the iPhone?
Not that it matters for me as I currently have a Blackberry - but may get an iPhone sometime down the road...

Steering Wheel buttons work slightly different from one unit to the other

And what is this about connecting Mki9000 to the Aux input in armrest? You can play music thru the Parrot? and why on earth would you want/need to when you have the radio?

So if I'm not interested in this 'radio' function thru the Parrot - just don't bother with that connection either?

So far a lot of good info - I'm getting ready to buy all the crap - just trying to understand all that is needed depending on model I get

[TommyLights]

Dan, good info, now I just need photos or a diagram for setting up the Unika controls.....hoping that the back of your headunit isnt much different from my Logic 7 headunit......in the meantime, I ordered the repair manual to see if I can get the diagram needed from it.....

[TommyLights]

Originally Posted by 1QuikWS6

So, just trying to sum up the content of all the threads involved - depending on unit purchased, you need the following:

Parrot CK3000 EVO
Parrot Multican
4ohm Speaker (Size?)
Center Logic7 Speaker Grill from BMW

-OR-

Parrot Mki9100
Parrot UNiKA
4ohm Speaker (Size?)
Center Logic7 Speaker Grill from BMW

So there are no fancy wiring harnesses needed other than the Multican or UNiKA? I remember seeing a quite complicated wiring harness that plugs between HU and Parrot that works with new fiber optic signals to amp - is this only used if you actually want to use the existing car speakers for phone sound?

Apparently the CK3000 does not work with the iPhone?
Not that it matters for me as I currently have a Blackberry - but may get an iPhone sometime down the road...

Steering Wheel buttons work slightly different from one unit to the other

And what is this about connecting Mki9000 to the Aux input in armrest? You can play music thru the Parrot? and why on earth would you want/need to when you have the radio?

So if I'm not interested in this 'radio' function thru the Parrot - just don't bother with that connection either?

So far a lot of good info - I'm getting ready to buy all the crap - just trying to understand all that is needed depending on model I get

You can always NOT connect the extra speaker and wire the Parrot directly to the speaker wires coming out of the amp which is what I did. It is the only solution if you have fiber optic, unless you opt for a harness from the UK, which does the same thing (I opted to hard wire mine and save $80). It sounds great with no feedback, crystal clear.

[DAN]

Yea but then your amp and parrot will be working against each other wouldn't they? Your amp will be jamming voltage into the parrots outputs and vice versa...

1QuikWS6, you do need a harness - it makes it easy to tap into power, mute and can high/low feeds.

My iPhone 3G did work with the ck3000 evo, but didn't work with voice dialling so you still had to use the handset to make calls which defeated the object of handsfree really. The 3GS and 4 have voice dialling built in though so it may not be an issue with those, but can't confirm myself. The 3G did fully work with the mki9100 though.

The mki9100 has an iPod dock connector and USB inputs and can play and navigate mp3 files on it, outputting via your armrest aux

[TommyLights]

Originally Posted by DAN

Yea but then your amp and parrot will be working against each other wouldn't they? Your amp will be jamming voltage into the parrots outputs and vice versa...

1QuikWS6, you do need a harness - it makes it easy to tap into power, mute and can high/low feeds.

Just putting a few labels on photos then will insert them on my last post above...

^^No, I dont believe the amps would be working against each other if the mute lead is connected, because the amp would go silent prior to the speakers getting the feed in from the Parrot. I do see what you mean though because I am able to make phone calls and listen to the radio at the same time. I would imagine there should be some feedback but there is ZERO.....the headunit does attenuate somewhat lower though, at least until the phone call ends. That's why I want that mute lead!

[1QuikWS6]

1QuikWS6, you do need a harness - it makes it easy to tap into power, mute and can high/low feeds.

Would this be the harness needed then? (got this from Parrot site)

http://www.quickconnectproducts.com/...ind.php?id=176


BMW - Mini Cooper Flat Pin Harness QCBMW-F

• BMW 3 Series* (2002-2010)
• BMW 5 Series (2002-2010)
• BMW X3, X5 (2000-2010)
• BMW Z4 (2003-2010)
• Mini Cooper (2002-2010)

Some BMW's listed above still use the round QCBMW-R connector - especially if the radio is the standard Business CD. Please pull the radio and verify whether your car's connector is the round pin or the flat pin style before ordering. Feel free to e-mail us a picture of the radio connector if in doubt.

Important Note on 2009+ vehicles
An extra jumper (BMW-jumper) wire is required on 2009+ vehicles.
Please notify your dealer or Quick Connect Products by e-mail if
ordering direct so that we can include this jumper in your order
at no additional charge.

On many 2005-2010 models of all brands above, you may need to find a source for 12V accessory (switched ignition) voltage. Instructions are provided.

[DAN]

OK, this is my current setup: Parrot mki9100 (no unika) using the SOT-976 cable (left over from my ck3000 evo + multican setup. I have Hifi audio with separate amp.

I pulled it all apart the other day to take pictures you see below. I’m not sure how useful they are though – it’s chaos back there! When I had my ck3000 setup I remember having all the cables neatly bound together with tape as I had to fit the multican box in there as well so had to be economical with space, but when I installed the mki9100 it looks like I probably couldn’t be bothered and stuffed it all back in! (I have a bit more room now as I didn’t buy the unika to go with the mki)

The air con controls are a real pain to get out - I used a couple of blunt butter knives to prize it out from the top left & right edges. But be warned - it's tough and can cause damage to the plastics if you slip or something. THIS IS AT YOUR OWN RISK! I have attached pics of it's main anchor points.

THE HARNESS
The SOT-976 picture isn’t mine, I took from a website, but looks the same. Note the speaker plugs left plugged into each other instead of connecting to the parrot’s plugs. From what I remember I *think* that loose cable tied up in the middle was the permanent 12v. The switched ignition 12v had to be tapped from the fusebox – I think I used the accessory ciggi lighter fuse. I just wrapped the correct wire from the parrot (labelled ‘12v ignition’ on the kit) around the blade and stuck it back in – not very professional I know, but it works – can’t find a proper fuse tap to buy anywhere… Don’t connect this if you’re using multican though – I would have thought the unika is the same but check first, obviously…
Pull the little in-line connector apart from the middle of the mute cable on the harness and insert the matching inline connector on the parrot on the radio-side of the harness. By connecting the mute this way you’ll find the other end of the mute wires will go nowhere & unused so I think I removed the mute plug from the car-end of the harness to save space.

Move the ‘most’ optical cables and armrest aux cables from original plug to the matching new plug on the harness. These cables are pretty short and makes it difficult to connect and insert the headunit back in at the end which is why I removed the head unit for the pics.

You can see in one of the pics where I had tapped the canbus wires for the multican. (using clamshell-like taps from maplin) As I’m not using these now, I’ve wrapped tape around the bare bits of the wire.

USEFUL LINKS:

Multican install for BMW – with pin details
http://dbinstall.parrot.com/Pdf_manual/Multican114.pdf
Unika install for BMW – with pin details
http://dbinstall.parrot.com/Pdf_manual/UNIKA119.pdf

Nadgers - the pics are in the wrong order, sorry...
On the last one where you see the choc-bloc going off to the speaker, I had reused I think it must have been the plug/socket thing that went with the mute side of the harness that I didn't use - thought it would make it easier if I wanted to unplug the parrot from the car in a hurry and easier than trying to solder to those little pins inside...!