[Dackz]

Originally Posted by Lee Rambler

have you checked where they are crossed over? I'm guessing just below 200hz from the sound of things (and the fact the 200hz eq band has a large effect on them). I'd really like to do something more in the 100-120hz range to the underseat woofers, and then 50-60 to the sub.

sorry I missed it earlier, but the armrest does not need to be removed. I had it still in for a couple of weeks, but decided I wanted to try a grille so I wouldn't have to drive around with it folded down. It does fold up normally, and actually stills works fairly well with it up - but it is definitely better with it down. I haven't decided yet if I want to keep the grille in or not, but it wasn't alot of work to make so I thought I'd give it a shot...

Id venture to guess its closer to 160hz or so? VP should have an RTA of it?

[Lee Rambler]

didn't know if anyone had tested the outputs of the amp channels individually with full band noise to see where the actual crossover points are and what the eq looks like. I'm more interested in that than a rta reading in the car, where the speakers characteristics and vehicle acoustics come into play.

[ellipsis212]

Originally Posted by rgpwr

brb hooking my laptop up to a 100" projector so I can see the whole pic at once

[808MGuy]

Originally Posted by Dackz

Id venture to guess its closer to 160hz or so? VP should have an RTA of it?

He did post a pic of the RTA awhile back. It was quite a bit lower than 200Hz from what I remember. I'm going to attempt to run my 4s down to about 100 or 90 and see how well they do. Gotta try to find a good point to pass off to the SWS8 since like other have said, they don't play well into the midbass frequencies.

[Lee Rambler]

I was thinking something similar, 100-120hz corssover point between the underseat midbass drivers and the mids. I intend to keep the stock 8's or do a good 6 1/2 for midbass, and cross them at 50-60hz on the low side to the subwoofer. I've come to the conclusion that I need to amplify the midbass and front channels. I had hoped to just add the sub, but alas it showed all the other weaknesses. I'm going to try it with the stock crossover points
(with just the 50-60hz highpass on the midbass) and eq first to see if it's workable, and I guess if not I'll add a RF 360 to sum the channels and remove the eq and then pick my crossover points. The midbasses playing low bass wreaks some havoc with the subwoofer phasing - one way gives acceptable midbass performance with a dip in the subs crossover area and then good low bass. Flip the phase and the low bass is great but upper bass and midbass suffers. I'm hoping removing the actual low bass from the 8's will remedy this, as well as clean them up a bit.

[Technic]

IMO, do not waste any more time trying to make the OEM L7 amp to give you something that it won't... either replace the amp with either the MotusLab MOST>RCA, the mObridge MOST>Toslink converter (you will need the Audison bit one to handle that Toslink, though) or simply get you system coded for HiFi outputs by Autologic (you will need to add RCA cables at the back of the OEM HU/iDrive) so you have analog outputs.

Either way you will have a full range, flat signal ready to be manipulated any way you want, easier, quicker and much more effective than working with the already amplified, several ways OEM equalized (by the interior, by speakers, by speaker position, by speed), already time aligned, and already crossover'ed.

[Lee Rambler]

I was interested in the mobridge, but the DA2000 may or may not ever come out... the DA1000 + bitone doesn't interest me. I hadn't heard of the motuslab piece, do you have any more info? ie a link to where it is available? I also didn't realize you could just get the radio recoded... I knew that worked in the e39's, didn't realize it was an option in the e9x's. That would be a very good option, I'm guessing by far the most cost effective. Though the pricing on the motuslab piece will be a determining factor too. It would be cool if it had a pass through for the most so I could keep the stock amp for the 4 rear speakers and center speaker (though I never use the logic7 anyhow, but I do like some rear fill)

[Technic]

Originally Posted by Lee Rambler

I was interested in the mobridge, but the DA2000 may or may not ever come out... the DA1000 + bitone doesn't interest me. I hadn't heard of the motuslab piece, do you have any more info? ie a link to where it is available? I also didn't realize you could just get the radio recoded... I knew that worked in the e39's, didn't realize it was an option in the e9x's. That would be a very good option, I'm guessing by far the most cost effective. Though the pricing on the motuslab piece will be a determining factor too. It would be cool if it had a pass through for the most so I could keep the stock amp for the 4 rear speakers and center speaker (though I never use the logic7 anyhow, but I do like some rear fill)

MotusLab is a member of this forum: http://www.e90post.com/forums/member.php?u=75780 or use their email sales@motuslab.com

The last time that I have communication with them thru PM they quote me some 410 Euros for the 4-channel version of the "Light" (they can go up to 8-channel) or 400 Euros for the Toslink version. They sell their modules directly; I don't know what happened with their USA distributor.

Because I trying the new iDrive retrofit and that requires Autologic coding anyways I requested a custom coding to my new CIC iDrive (Individual Audio system from factiory) to output HiFi (balanced, flat, full range signal at all 4 OEM output channels), so there's no need for me anymore in trying any of those devices. I was going to buy the MotusLab piece, but the total cost of my custom iDrive coding came up less that the price of that unit.

So I guess that in your case it could be much cheaper as it is just a change of output. This Autologic coding is completely reversible and non-intrusive with your car other modules.

[Lee Rambler]

did you get your dealership to do this for you? I have a very good dealer and an excellent relationship with them, so if it's something they can do, I'm sure it won't be an issue.... Are there wires on the harness already going into the radio? Or did you add pins? If you added pins or tapped the harness's existing leads, I (and I'm sure others) would love to know which ones. thanks!

[Technic]

Originally Posted by Lee Rambler

did you get your dealership to do this for you? I have a very good dealer and an excellent relationship with them, so if it's something they can do, I'm sure it won't be an issue.... Are there wires on the harness already going into the radio? Or did you add pins? If you added pins or tapped the harness's existing leads, I (and I'm sure others) would love to know which ones. thanks!

This coding cannot/won't be done by any dealer, this is at an Autologic shop.

There is no wiring for speakers in the back of any Top HiFi (Logic7 or Individual Audio) system so you need to create your own harness.

It is quite simple; for the wiring in the back:

- buy a the Metra 71-9003 Quadralock, some $22 at Best Buy or at any car audio shop.
- remove the speaker detachable plug from it (this only applies to MY2006 to MY2008 3-Series, as the Quadralock in later models changed from a multi-piece connector assembly to a single-piece connector).
- plug that speaker plug into the OEM Quadralock in the back of your OEM HU
- add an extension cable to that speaker plug all the way to the trunk, either with plain wires or a full wire to RCA cable conversion (depending of your particular application). OEM remote signal is pin #13 in that Quadralock.

Example of a full wire > RCA cable conversion from the back of the OEM iDrive to the trunk, using JL Audio twisted-wires RCA cable:







This harness is also completely reversible... just unplug it and that's it, OEM Quadralock goes back to stock.

By changing the coding of the OEM HU to HiFi you will lose the Logic7 processing (Equalizer and the Surround modes) as the actual processing is done at the OEM amp and obviously there will be no more inputs to that amp after the coding. Again, this is reversible by coding the unit back to stock (extra charge).

[Dackz]

Originally Posted by Lee Rambler

I was thinking something similar, 100-120hz corssover point between the underseat midbass drivers and the mids. I intend to keep the stock 8's or do a good 6 1/2 for midbass, and cross them at 50-60hz on the low side to the subwoofer. I've come to the conclusion that I need to amplify the midbass and front channels. I had hoped to just add the sub, but alas it showed all the other weaknesses. I'm going to try it with the stock crossover points
(with just the 50-60hz highpass on the midbass) and eq first to see if it's workable, and I guess if not I'll add a RF 360 to sum the channels and remove the eq and then pick my crossover points. The midbasses playing low bass wreaks some havoc with the subwoofer phasing - one way gives acceptable midbass performance with a dip in the subs crossover area and then good low bass. Flip the phase and the low bass is great but upper bass and midbass suffers. I'm hoping removing the actual low bass from the 8's will remedy this, as well as clean them up a bit.

IMO the OEM 8's with some decent power, 100rms or so, sound pretty good. With a quality processor Im sure they would sound great. I have them running from about 50ish hz up to whatever the L7 cutoff is.

[Lee Rambler]

I'm going to give the same thing a try this weekend, have a couple of eclipse 4 channels I'm going to put in to run the fronts, rears and midbasses. Going to try it with the stock eq and crossover (and high pass the 8"s at 50-60hz)in place to start and go from there (along with the sub). they actually fit under the trunk floor, pretty cool. Usually more of a JL or RF guy, but nothing we have in stock is going to fit where I want (the new XD JL's look like they will, but aren't shipping yet - HD isn't even close). If I can't get the results I want I'm either going to get the radio recoded or add a 360.2. How much do most shops charge to recode? I don't care at all about the logic 7 processing, and I don't care all that much about the eq, though the eq would be nice to keep. I think we may even have the metra harness in stock...

I've searched and searched, but I can't find a rta of the logic7 system anywhere. I guess I'll have to rta it myself, was hoping not to have to. Our 3050 rta bit the dust long ago, and my harristech termlab software is on an old old old computer that doesn't work anymore (and the license is non-transferrable). I have some free version software I can use on my netbook, but not sure I trust the accuracy. Would love it if someone had an rta to share, or even had note of and bad spots...

[Dackz]

Originally Posted by Lee Rambler

I'm going to give the same thing a try this weekend, have a couple of eclipse 4 channels I'm going to put in to run the fronts, rears and midbasses. Going to try it with the stock eq and crossover (and high pass the 8"s at 50-60hz)in place to start and go from there (along with the sub). they actually fit under the trunk floor, pretty cool. Usually more of a JL or RF guy, but nothing we have in stock is going to fit where I want (the new XD JL's look like they will, but aren't shipping yet - HD isn't even close). If I can't get the results I want I'm either going to get the radio recoded or add a 360.2. How much do most shops charge to recode? I don't care at all about the logic 7 processing, and I don't care all that much about the eq, though the eq would be nice to keep. I think we may even have the metra harness in stock...

I've searched and searched, but I can't find a rta of the logic7 system anywhere. I guess I'll have to rta it myself, was hoping not to have to. Our 3050 rta bit the dust long ago, and my harristech termlab software is on an old old old computer that doesn't work anymore (and the license is non-transferrable). I have some free version software I can use on my netbook, but not sure I trust the accuracy. Would love it if someone had an rta to share, or even had note of and bad spots...

Im running a PDX-5 to my system. Its grossly underrated. I am getting ~100w a ch. on it, x4 and ~450 from the sub output according to the chart. The 100 clean watts makes the front end sound great. The logic 7 drivers arent that bad, its the logic 7. That said, its better then any other 'stock' system I have heard (I have an 08, standard then). You will be pleasently surprised I think.

I dont have the gains up much either, helping it to blend with the center. I think I get a great front stage. My 1 and only complaint I have with my system is the bass timing...damn I wish I could get my sub bass just a tad more upfront, WITHOUT spending a bunch of money lol.

[kaigoss69]

Originally Posted by Lee Rambler

I've searched and searched, but I can't find a rta of the logic7 system anywhere.

http://www.janixworld.com/330xi/ster...nailpage3.html

[Lee Rambler]

cool, good find. it's a e90 and I have an e92, but it's at least something I can compare to as a reference once put a rta on the amp in my car. Downloaded some software for my netbook, just worried about the accuracy....

[mathu.bala]

Originally Posted by Technic

- buy a the Metra 71-9003 Quadralock, some $22 at Best Buy or at any car audio shop.
-

Do you know if this will fit the e90 LCI 323i 6 speaker HU?

[Technic]

Originally Posted by mathu.bala

Do you know if this will fit the e90 LCI 323i 6 speaker HU?

this only applies to MY2006 to MY2008 3-Series, as the Quadralock in later models changed from a multi-piece connector assembly to a single-piece connector.

... and your system is completely different than the one discussed in this thread.

[Lee Rambler]

talked to my dealer today, and they can do the recode too - though they change the code the car outputs that it wants to, so that any changes they make in the future don't affect it. they thought 3-4 hours total labor, and the other cool thing is while they are in there doing it they can also turn off the tpms system so the tire pressure warning light doesn't come on anymore....

out of curiousity has anyone tried the front outputs of the deck without recoding? reason I ask is that on e38's and e39's the front output pins were still hot even with the stock dsp system still hooked up via optical... would be really cool to be able to just use the 71-9003 harness add on without recoding, and still have the eq from L7. I don't really care about the fader, I can just adjust my amps the way I want.

[Technic]

Originally Posted by Lee Rambler

talked to my dealer today, and they can do the recode too - though they change the code the car outputs that it wants to, so that any changes they make in the future don't affect it. they thought 3-4 hours total labor, and the other cool thing is while they are in there doing it they can also turn off the tpms system so the tire pressure warning light doesn't come on anymore....

The dealer will not be able to do it.

They think that they will be able to do it but they will be unable to as your Vehicle Order says that your car has Logic7 and there's no way that ISTA/P will do something different than what the VO says. That's what Autologic is for.

You will waste 3-4 hours of labor costs.

out of curiousity has anyone tried the front outputs of the deck without recoding? reason I ask is that on e38's and e39's the front output pins were still hot even with the stock dsp system still hooked up via optical... would be really cool to be able to just use the 71-9003 harness add on without recoding, and still have the eq from L7. I don't really care about the fader, I can just adjust my amps the way I want.

Two different hardware and optical protocols.

There are no analog outputs active when the MOST audio outputs are active and viceversa.

[Lee Rambler]

bummer on the change...

they said they can change what the VO reads, so that the change is permanent and doesn't get messed up by any other changes/progman changes - in other words so the car reads as it has the hifi system instead of L7 from the get go

[VP Electricity]

If you do what Technic describes to make the RCA output, and you buy a twisted-pair 1m-to-2F "Y" adapter and circumcise it, you will be able to plug in a regular M-to-M cable from the HU to the amp.

Do NOT use any cable with metal outer shells for the RCA connectors unless you heat-shrink or tape the outsides so they can't touch each other or any metal surface - when they touch they short the (-) side to ground and cause distortion - usually intermittent distortion.

[Technic]

Originally Posted by Lee Rambler

bummer on the change...

they said they can change what the VO reads, so that the change is permanent and doesn't get messed up by any other changes/progman changes - in other words so the car reads as it has the hifi system instead of L7 from the get go

If that dealer can do that then they will know more that most dealers in South Florida, and that's a lot of dealers.

I also went thru the 3-4 hours labor thing trying to retrofit the new iDrive CIC into my 2008 M3, to no avail. ISTA/P will not code anything that is not stated in the VO, and BMW is not changing VO anymore. Because it was not possible I did not pay for that labor, thankfully.

And even if what your dealer is saying is true, Autologic only took less than 5 minutes to not only change the outputs of the CIC but also to code the whole CIC unit to my M3. So those 3-4 hours of labor looks like something else to me...