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      12-21-2010, 04:18 AM   #23
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I would defiantly keep your heating on 24/7. Know of 2 people with bursts last year. Not pretty especially at Christmas.

As of about early Nov i just turn my heating to on and leave the thermostat on 18C. Keeps the house nice and warm at all times and bills aren't that much different.
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      12-21-2010, 04:37 AM   #24
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That room stat looks interesting. We have a basic twist knob type stat in the hall to control the oil central heating and then a programmable timer out on the boiler. Problem is the programme module only allows 3 on and offs each day so its not great unless you work with adjusting the room stat.

If I replace the stat in the hall with one of these digital programmable ones does this allow me more control. I have heard the digital ones are more accurate as regards the reading but I'm not too clear on how the programmable function works, does this then over-rule the module out at the boiler or does it need removed.

Any recommendations on stat also helpful, does not need to be wireless as there must be wires running to the current stat.
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      12-21-2010, 04:51 AM   #25
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I always use Honeywell products, but avoid the wireless ones.

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/39124/...oom-Thermostat

Not necessarily the cheapest price above.
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      12-21-2010, 04:58 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willhollin View Post
I always use Honeywell products, but avoid the wireless ones.

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/39124/...oom-Thermostat

Not necessarily the cheapest price above.
Does it need batteries for the LCD?
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      12-21-2010, 05:05 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creepy coupe View Post
Does it need batteries for the LCD?
Yes.
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      12-21-2010, 05:07 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willhollin View Post
Battery back up for the memory, it's mains powered.
Ta Mate

Do you only use two of the three wires Will?
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      12-21-2010, 05:10 AM   #29
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I'm pretty sure that model is a two wire, not three wire as described on the Screwfix website.

http://www.honeywelluk.com/Products/...le-Thermostat/
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      12-21-2010, 05:22 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willhollin View Post
I'm pretty sure that model is a two wire, not three wire as described on the Screwfix website.

http://www.honeywelluk.com/Products/...le-Thermostat/
I just installed the CM907 seven day Honeywell which is also a two wire solution (although this may depend on what type of boiler you have - our's is a combi). It was a very easy straight swap for our ancient dial thermostat. It's such an improvement and I can already see it's saving us money, and more importantly keeping us warm

I managed to get the CM907 at the site below for £55 plus delivery...

http://www.buyaparcel.com/pageview.p...tockcode=CM907

...and highly recommend it.
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      12-21-2010, 05:24 AM   #31
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Here's the installation instructions.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf CM900-Installation-Guide.pdf (462.9 KB, 101 views)
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      12-21-2010, 05:38 AM   #32
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My existing stat has three wires, but I'm sure I would have to not reconnect the neutral and just make it safe with a block connector.

Is the display back lit Will?
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      12-21-2010, 05:43 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creepy coupe View Post
My existing stat has three wires, but I'm sure I would have to not reconnect the neutral and just make it safe with a block connector.

Is the display back lit Will?
The Honeywell's have connections for three wires, it just depends which type of boiler you are connecting to it as to how many wires need to be connected. Combi's only require 2wires, other boiler types may require 3wires - there's a helpful wiring diagram that comes with the timer/thermostat.

Display remains backlit after you touch any buttons on it for about 10seconds.
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      12-21-2010, 05:48 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dar2008 View Post
The Honeywell's have connections for three wires, it just depends which type of boiler you are connecting to it as to how many wires need to be connected. Combi's only require 2wires, other boiler types may require 3wires - there's a helpful wiring diagram that comes with the timer/thermostat.

Display remains backlit after you touch any buttons on it for about 10seconds.
Thanks, my combi has three wires going to the stat, either way worth a punt I think.
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      12-21-2010, 05:54 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creepy coupe View Post
Thanks, my combi has three wires going to the stat, either way worth a punt I think.
Thinking about it so did mine - it had an earth and there is no earthing point on the CM90# stats so I blocked it off.
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      12-21-2010, 06:32 AM   #36
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What you need is a/c (actually a heat pump) runs on an inverter drive so nice a cheap to run -compared to gas!!! Keeps the house nice and cool in the summer and warm in the winter .
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      12-21-2010, 07:29 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dar2008 View Post
Thinking about it so did mine - it had an earth and there is no earthing point on the CM90# stats so I blocked it off.
I think the Blue/neutral is redundant.
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      12-21-2010, 08:56 AM   #38
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The thermostat I have is a wireless Honeywell system, now at home to check. Why not wireless then Will?

The heating is not on at a constant temperature

11pm to 6am = 18 deg
6am to 7.30am = 20deg
7.30am to 5pm = 18 deg
5pm to 7pm = 20deg
7pm to 11pm = 21 deg
11pm back to 18deg

So it never gets too cold but never runs the heating at full 24/7. it only kicks in under 18deg therefore never having to have a system overload getting the house back up to a comfort temperature. The mornings and evenings are adjusted to be more comfortable. The only time I over ride the system is in the afternoons if I'm home I knock it up from 18 to 21deg a little earlier.
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      12-21-2010, 10:18 AM   #39
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Mine is the same....

Monday - Friday

7am - 9am = 21°c
9am - 5pm = 14°c
5pm - 1am = 21°c
1am - 7am = 14°c

Weekend

2am - 9am = 14°c
9am - 2am = 21°c


That works well for us, never have to think about it.

We then have a holiday mode which doesn't let it drop below 10°c so the pipes won't freeze.
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      12-21-2010, 02:53 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tunna_uk View Post
B&Q had loft insulation for £1 a roll a few weeks ago, so I decided to double insulate the loft. Made a big difference
Just been to B&Q the offer is still on so I bough 7 x 3 rolls £21 bargain and I will pick up the other 7 tomorrow night, so thanks for that bit of info that will cost me £42 to do my loft areas, I was going to wait until who knows when to get some.
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      12-21-2010, 04:33 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walesy View Post
This the one I got. It has the actual temp aswell as a setpoint +/- option and will revert to the pre programmed setpoint upon nest time change. Frost protection is also included.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Salus-RT500-RF...item43a3e237dc
That looks great (and cheap )!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Carrera RSR View Post
The thermostat I have is a wireless Honeywell system, now at home to check. Why not wireless then Will?

The heating is not on at a constant temperature

11pm to 6am = 18 deg
6am to 7.30am = 20deg
7.30am to 5pm = 18 deg
5pm to 7pm = 20deg
7pm to 11pm = 21 deg
11pm back to 18deg

So it never gets too cold but never runs the heating at full 24/7. it only kicks in under 18deg therefore never having to have a system overload getting the house back up to a comfort temperature. The mornings and evenings are adjusted to be more comfortable. The only time I over ride the system is in the afternoons if I'm home I knock it up from 18 to 21deg a little earlier.
Wow, glad you got back mate so you could check the model

+1 on the why not wireless Will?
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      12-21-2010, 04:37 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creepy coupe View Post
There was a debate about this on the radio the other day and the short answer was, think of you house as a box with holes in and if you have the heating on all the time and you feel warm enough, it’s costing you money due to heat loss, so nothing new there then. Having the heating come on twice a day obviously takes longer to get to the desired temp, but is cheaper to warm the same house, over it being on non stop.

So in essence, On all the time, loosing heat all the time, on twice a day, loose heat twice a day.

Although I do agree with will, cost aside it’s a good idea a the moment
But did they take into account the boiler has to work harder as the temperature has fallen more overnight ? i.e it is then in catch up mode burning more gas?

Guess the analogy could be like a car - cruise through the night at 40mph , or stop then play catch up at 120mph next mornig? Lol, if that makes sense
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      12-21-2010, 05:02 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creepy coupe View Post
There was a debate about this on the radio the other day and the short answer was, think of you house as a box with holes in and if you have the heating on all the time and you feel warm enough, it’s costing you money due to heat loss, so nothing new there then. Having the heating come on twice a day obviously takes longer to get to the desired temp, but is cheaper to warm the same house, over it being on non stop.

So in essence, On all the time, loosing heat all the time, on twice a day, loose heat twice a day.

Although I do agree with will, cost aside it’s a good idea a the moment
What about thermal mass?
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      12-21-2010, 05:44 PM   #44
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It's true, on all day does use more gas. Obvious really, but when I tested it the unit difference was a lot smaller than expected. My winter quarter was £18 more than the previous year running 24/7. Some of that might have been down to lower average temps.

Test it for at least 3 days on constant, 3 days on timed with similar outside temps, see how it works out by taking a meter reading and finding out the unit price of gas for all tiers that may apply. If you have a drafty victorian house it might be money down the drain. Test it. For me the cost isn't noticeable but the comfort is improved tenfold.
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