[fdriller9]

For those of you who just want to read about registration and programming.....go to the blue section.

So I needed a new battery because my old one was holding an 11.5v charge when the car was off. I ordered a Braille no weight, 21lb battery from HP Autowerks with thier custom battery tray. I had a shipping timing issue and Harold made sure it got to me before I went away.

So I come back from vacation and look for a good indy to install my new battery. I found Pinnancle Motor Werks in Stirling, NJ so I went there to get my battery installed/registered.

They have an Autologic for those wondering.

Anyway so we go through the menus to register the battery and since the Braille is an AGM battery, I need to program my car so it charges the battery correctly.

SO if you're replacing your battery with an AGM and you have a lead acid battery, you NEED to program the correct type! Registering and programming are 2 different procedures.

However, the Autologic device had only the following options: 90Ah AGM, 90Ah, 80Ah AGM, 80Ah, 70Ah AGM, 70Ah, 55Ah, and 46Ah. I think that was all of them.

The Braille I bought has a 31Ah rating....what to do?

Basically my indy didn't want to be held liable for damages later incurred....understandable. So I told the shop to program my car as a 70Ah AGM, the lowest Ah AGM available on my car. I was concerned about my car being programmed to charge an AGM, not a lead acid.

So we'll see if my battery holds up. I was mainly concerned that my car was programmed to charge an AGM. The Ah rating will be something I will monitor over the life of the battery.

So things I learned from this:

Battery Registration does 3 things:

1) Logs Mileage.
2) Tells the car a new battery is installed.
3) Not sure about this one but I think the car records the condition of the battery at 80% of the capacity.....as a reference point.

Now there is programming.....which requires reintializing modules, mainly the CAS and FRM module.

Our cars have many different Ah ratings (90Ah, 80Ah, 70Ah) and types (AGM vs non-AGM). There are other parameters that differ as well but these are the main ones in programming. The main difference the computer needs to know is AGM or non-AGM. AGMs will charge differently. I guess different Ah ratings tell the car how long to charge the battery and how often to maintain it. Ah ratings are basically a reserve rating. A 1 amp draw on my 21lb Braille will last 31 hours before a recharge is needed.

Anyway, so the reason why I have decided this was a bad decison is because:

1) The CCAs on the Braille are 550A. Stock = 750A. This battery is fine for warmer climates but since I'm on the East Coast.....I'll be needing a battery heater and a tender.
2) The Ah rating on the Braille is 31Ah. Stock = 90Ah. This is why I need a tender.

Those with a BT tool:

Reset Battery Adaptation and Battery Registration are redundant entries and send the same command. You can only use this option if you are replacing the battery with the SAME spec. Same Ah (capacity) and type (AGM vs non-AGM).

If you decide to install a battery with a different type or capacity you need to have the car programmed so it knows its capacity and type.


Another member on here explains AGM batteries in his post:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=358

So as long as you replace your battery with the same spec (CA, CCA, Ah ratings, and type (AGM, non-AGM)), then you just need to register your battery.

If you change any specs you may need to program, then register the battery....especially when retrofitting an AGM.

I don't think small differences in ratings will require programming, just registration. As long as the Ah rating and type are the same/similar values, then you should be good.

EDIT: I also forgot to mention that the battery I recieved was a bit smaller than the ones in the DIY guides here and on M3post. My power distribution block sat directly over the negative terminal opposed to next to it, like the ones in the DIY.

I had to configure it in a weird way. I'll post up a picture later.

I did not want to remove the distribution block because it holds the main fuses for our cars and also I would need to cut, fuse, and terminate 4 or 5 wires, some being a pretty thick guage. I'm lazy....

[HighlandPete]

Great posting.

I take it you have the same/similar gubbins on your terminal as in my wagon?



HighlandPete

[fdriller9]

Thanks Pete. Yea my battery looks identical....with a few differences but nothing major.

Some people choose to take that distribution block out but it has fuses in it that are the main fuses for the electrical system. My shop didn't advise it nor did I.

So I'm left with this....

[IMG]http://i714.photobucket.com/albums/ww146/*********/photo_2-8.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i714.photobucket.com/albums/ww146/*********/photo_1-7.jpg[/IMG]

Ugly, huh? I'm working on trying to do something with it. Any suggestions appreciated.

Also my theory on AGMs might be wrong....about the 13.8v. Still need to research a bit on that.

[arctic330i]

Exceptionally good post, time consuming for you but VERY helpful.

[mabman]

one of the most complete and detailed posts I've read - thanks for this valuable info.

[ENINTY]

*********, so why did you change to a battery that has half the CCA of the standard battery your car came with? Yes, it weighs half as much as the standard battery, but also has half the performance...

[JaysBlueE92]

good info..thanks for posting

[cedchung]

I just replaced my original 70Ah battery with a 100Ah one today and registered the new battery using BMW DIS.

Is it absolutely necessary to have it reprogrammed at the dealership to accept the new battery capacity?

[fdriller9]

Originally Posted by cedchung

I just replaced my original 70Ah battery with a 100Ah one today and registered the new battery using BMW DIS.

Is it absolutely necessary to have it reprogrammed at the dealership to accept the new battery capacity?

It will extend the life of the battery. If your car thinks the battery is a 70Ah when it is really a 100Ah, it won't ever charge it fully.

When lead acid batteries drain, the plates inside can corrode and that will affect the ability to hold a full charge.

I think the highest Ah rating you can program is 90Ah.

[fdriller9]

Originally Posted by ENINTY

*********, so why did you change to a battery that has half the CCA of the standard battery your car came with? Yes, it weighs half as much as the standard battery, but also has half the performance...

I didn't research enough before I bought it. Now that I do know about our charging systems and AGMs, I now know I should not have gotten it.


However, I've had the battery installed for a few months now and although my car has a hard time cranking under 30 degrees, it has always turned over.

[ENINTY]

Originally Posted by *********

I didn't research enough before I bought it. Now that I do know about our charging systems and AGMs, I now know I should not have gotten it.


However, I've had the battery installed for a few months now and although my car has a hard time cranking under 30 degrees, it has always turned over.

That's fair. I'd expect it to go tits up pretty quick. Hope it's not slowly damaging the starter or other components.

[fdriller9]

Originally Posted by ENINTY

That's fair. I'd expect it to go tits up pretty quick. Hope it's not slowly damaging the starter or other components.

Because of the weather? Or in general? I think HP Autowerks has had the Braille in their car for over a year with no problems. They didn't program it either.

When I called they said they just swapped it in and registered it.

[galahad05]

It still POs me that a battery replacement is so expensive on these cars.

[youngnastyman]

so wait - i can register my battery myself if i have the BT tool????

[fdriller9]

Originally Posted by youngnastyman

so wait - i can register my battery myself if i have the BT tool????

Yes if you replace with same spec.

[reficuliu]

So I really don't wanna bring up a topic that has been completely exhausted, but after hours and hours of reading multiple threads i still have not come to any confident solution.

My battery was on the verge of dying yesterday, so in my frantic state of mind i drove to O' Reilly's and bought the only compatible battery they had available. The battery i had before was:

BMW OEM White Battery (lead acid)
S: 61218385398
AW: 61218381764
12V 90Ah 720 A
160 RC 720 CCA

which was replaced with:

Super Start Extreme (lead acid)
PN: 94REXTJ
CCA 765
Cranking Amps 915
Reserve Capacity 140 min.

Now.. after reading a million posts affirming and rejecting the registration/coding of a battery, i called an indy tech close by, as well as a dealership in SoCal. The indy shop told me that i could ONLY use BMW original batteries, and it MUST be registered otherwise the alternator would confuse the voltage and damage the battery and other components (IBS, and something else.. wasn't paying attention..) in the long run. He said i needed to tell him the original battery CCA and specs (which i didn't have at the time) in order to know which battery to get for me. He said, even the white batteries has several P/Ns with different specs, but an overall quote would be approx. $220 for the battery and $75 for installation/registration ($300).

I then called a dealer, who told me my only option was to retrofit my car with the AGM battery, costing $309 for the battery and another $340 for labor/coding/registration ($650). When i asked why i couldn't just use a white lead acid OEM battery, he told me BMW no longer makes them. I then proceeded to ask if i replaced it with another lead acid battery if i needed to register, his response was, "well, technically, you wouldn't need to."

So.. after all this reading, it seems as if in order to register the battery, i would need the same specs on the lead acid replacement as the original white battery. Yet, due to my urgency, i already had an aftermarket battery installed. There were no lights, no errors, except for clock time resetting. Everything seems to run normally. Now here are my questions.

1. How, if possible, would i go about registering this aftermarket battery?
2. If i choose to use this battery without registering, will there be any long term detriment to other components in my vehicle?

I actually only care about the damage of other more expensive components. As the battery comes with 3 years replacement warranty, and 84 mo pro rated replacement, at the price of $150 i'm not too worried. Any input would be great, and i would definitely want to stick with aftermarket if there is no harm in doing so. Paying higher price for the OEM battery, registering it, taking the aftermarket battery to return, all seems like a huge hassle and extra costs. Retrofitting the AGM is out of the question, as i cannot justify the cost.

[bumere90]

good info

[Brad from the OC]

I installed a Duralast battery a few years ago. When I went to an Indy to have it registered, they said they would not do it as they could not find the AH rating. From what I could determine about AH rating, it appears that AH info is not typically found in American manufactured batteries, it is a European thing. American batteries typically provides CCA and RC. From that info AH cannot be calculated. Only the battery manufacturer would know what the AH is. I wrote to the manufacturer to try to find AH info and did not receive a response back. So I now have a battery that is not registered.

[reficuliu]

Originally Posted by Brad from the OC

I installed a Duralast battery a few years ago. When I went to an Indy to have it registered, they said they would not do it as they could not find the AH rating. From what I could determine about AH rating, it appears that AH info is not typically found in American manufactured batteries, it is a European thing. American batteries typically provides CCA and RC. From that info AH cannot be calculated. Only the battery manufacturer would know what the AH is. I wrote to the manufacturer to try to find AH info and did not receive a response back. So I now have a battery that is not registered.

Thanks Brad,

So I guess the only "professional" advice is to purchase the OEM battery and register it. Otherwise, take the risk and go with an aftermarket battery without registering (since that doesn't seem to be an option). The Ah rating does seem to be for EU cars, since the original battery lists 2 sets of ratings: one being the CCA and RC (listed under SAE), and the other with the Ah and Amps. It befuddles me how so many companies are making batteries "compatible" with our vehicles that don't comply with Ah or CCA numbers, yet according to BMW registration and tech advise, none of these are compatible or even safe.. something just doesn't add up..

Brad, have you had any damage in other power components of your vehicle?

[Juiced46]

You may be able to register the aftermarket battery but you NEED to know the Ah rating of it. That is the main thing. If its not the same Ah rating you will not be able to register it properly. In BMWs system you cannot just go into the registration process and enter any Ah rating. There are only a few choices.

[Brad from the OC]

Originally Posted by reficuliu

Thanks Brad,

So I guess the only "professional" advice is to purchase the OEM battery and register it. Otherwise, take the risk and go with an aftermarket battery without registering (since that doesn't seem to be an option). The Ah rating does seem to be for EU cars, since the original battery lists 2 sets of ratings: one being the CCA and RC (listed under SAE), and the other with the Ah and Amps. It befuddles me how so many companies are making batteries "compatible" with our vehicles that don't comply with Ah or CCA numbers, yet according to BMW registration and tech advise, none of these are compatible or even safe.. something just doesn't add up..

Brad, have you had any damage in other power components of your vehicle?

After having the battery for about 3 years and over 20, 000 miles, so far I have not noticed any problems. I heard that if I ran trouble codes though, that all kinds of codes show up and registration eliminates those codes. But for me to register my Duralast battery, I need AH ratings. So either I just keeping running the car the way it is or go buy another battery with known AH and then register it.

[dieselgg]

Did anyone follow the additional steps involved after registering their battery?

The Bentley manual that in addition to reporgramming the clock and radio, you have to reset the sunroof and the steering angle sensor.

Has anyone performed these additional steps after registering their battery?