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      04-30-2014, 01:08 PM   #1
Lazza
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I'm Back! And Need Advice - 335 Advice Help!!!!!

Hey guys and girls,

I've been BMW less since my E92 was written off.

I have now achieved the holy grail..........new job + car allowance AND FUEL CARD.

It's 335i time people. I have arrived!

Right, so I need advice. I looked at and drove a 2008 manual today. Epic. Simply epic and much preferred it to the auto. BUT I don't really know what gremlins to look out for on these.

I'm in the pre LCI market. The one I looked at today started up ok, but did sound rough / rattley (rattley from one of the exhausts) for say 30 secs. The engine then 'calmed' to idle, although was a bit 'tickey' in the engine department. Noticeably so with the bonnet up.

The car drove very well. The shift was nice and slick. The body work was true and straight. It was a one owner car.

What I'm asking for is your collective advice/knowledge on what to look out for on the 06/07/08/09 pre lci cars.

I'm ready to buy one of these so any help will be great.

Also, just for a laugh I swung by Big Motoring World who according to their website had 2 good examples. Upon arrival it quickly became apparent they did not have these cars. Surprise Surprise. I just reminded them of the thread that's still doing the rounds and laughed at them as I drove away hahaha

Last edited by Lazza; 04-30-2014 at 01:18 PM.. Reason: bold title - visibility
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      04-30-2014, 01:25 PM   #2
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Check for oil UNDER the oil filter housing. This is a sign of the gasket going bad and needing replacement. The ticking cold be low oil or vanos solenoids starting to go out. They're easy to replace but a PITA to get too. Other than the basics, I always check wind noise, bearings (see if the car get's quieter when you turn in a specific direction, I ended up having to have both of my rear bearings replaced) If you REALLY want to get deep in it, find out the part numbers on the fuel injectors and see which index they're in, or if there is a recall notice on them. I'd also find out if the HPFP (high pressure fuel pump) has been replaced or if it is covered under the BMW extended warranty. There are all the basic car things to think of also. But those are the basics that I would personally be finding out about.
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      04-30-2014, 01:39 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lazza View Post
Hey guys and girls,

I've been BMW less since my E92 was written off.

I have now achieved the holy grail..........new job + car allowance AND FUEL CARD.

It's 335i time people. I have arrived!

Right, so I need advice. I looked at and drove a 2008 manual today. Epic. Simply epic and much preferred it to the auto. BUT I don't really know what gremlins to look out for on these.

I'm in the pre LCI market. The one I looked at today started up ok, but did sound rough / rattley (rattley from one of the exhausts) for say 30 secs. The engine then 'calmed' to idle, although was a bit 'tickey' in the engine department. Noticeably so with the bonnet up.

The car drove very well. The shift was nice and slick. The body work was true and straight. It was a one owner car.

What I'm asking for is your collective advice/knowledge on what to look out for on the 06/07/08/09 pre lci cars.

I'm ready to buy one of these so any help will be great.

Also, just for a laugh I swung by Big Motoring World who according to their website had 2 good examples. Upon arrival it quickly became apparent they did not have these cars. Surprise Surprise. I just reminded them of the thread that's still doing the rounds and laughed at them as I drove away hahaha
To answer this:

"I'm in the pre LCI market. The one I looked at today started up ok, but did sound rough / rattley (rattley from one of the exhausts) for say 30 secs. The engine then 'calmed' to idle, although was a bit 'tickey' in the engine department. Noticeably so with the bonnet up"

They all seem to sound like this from cold some more so than others (where this will differ from car to car will depend on the state of the cars waste gates that do rattle on startup-there is a software update for this though some stated they when it was installed it did to a small degree effect performance)mines perfect (I've had new Turbo's and had the waste gate update done not long after I purchased the car)yet it sounds very metallic like almost zingy on start up from cold then after 30 or so seconds the magic valve opens on the near side pipe the engine tone get a bit deeper then after a minute or so things calm down, bonnet up you'll hear the injectors singing their heart out to a degree.

All sounds a bit strange when explained on here that what your describing(and what you hear see smell then try to put in words can differ from the actual experience)is normal bug if the many I've driven had in my workshop they all exhibit the symptoms you're trying to describe.

Other issues relate to the cars high pressure fuel pump, turbos, the cars breather system water pump all of which you can dig deep and find via search on here or a generic Google search.
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      04-30-2014, 03:04 PM   #4
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If you got a fuel car why not for the M3...
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      04-30-2014, 04:00 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by gangzoom View Post
If you got a fuel car why not for the M3...
You offering to buy it for me?
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      04-30-2014, 04:02 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old grey steve View Post
To answer this:


They all seem to sound like this from cold some more so than others (where this will differ from car to car will depend on the state of the cars waste gates that do rattle on startup-there is a software update for this though some stated they when it was installed it did to a small degree effect performance)mines perfect (I've had new Turbo's and had the waste gate update done not long after I purchased the car)yet it sounds very metallic like almost zingy on start up from cold then after 30 or so seconds the magic valve opens on the near side pipe the engine tone get a bit deeper then after a minute or so things calm down, bonnet up you'll hear the injectors singing their heart out to a degree.

All sounds a bit strange when explained on here that what your describing(and what you hear see smell then try to put in words can differ from the actual experience)is normal bug if the many I've driven had in my workshop they all exhibit the symptoms you're trying to describe.

Other issues relate to the cars high pressure fuel pump, turbos, the cars breather system water pump all of which you can dig deep and find via search on here or a generic Google search.
Thanks for the advice. It seems that what I saw today was 'normal' then. My e46 M3's were kind of the same. A bit metallic sounding until they warmed up
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      04-30-2014, 04:03 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bear From Jax View Post
Check for oil UNDER the oil filter housing. This is a sign of the gasket going bad and needing replacement. The ticking cold be low oil or vanos solenoids starting to go out. They're easy to replace but a PITA to get too. Other than the basics, I always check wind noise, bearings (see if the car get's quieter when you turn in a specific direction, I ended up having to have both of my rear bearings replaced) If you REALLY want to get deep in it, find out the part numbers on the fuel injectors and see which index they're in, or if there is a recall notice on them. I'd also find out if the HPFP (high pressure fuel pump) has been replaced or if it is covered under the BMW extended warranty. There are all the basic car things to think of also. But those are the basics that I would personally be finding out about.
cheers. Note to self if I go back. I'm thinking of getting an independent inspection done. Any experience with these? worth the ££?
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      04-30-2014, 04:06 PM   #8
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Should prob start a new thread, but has anyone had any experience with independent inspections. A guy I sold my E46 M3 too had one done by RAC (I think).

The guy was there for a couple hours. How much can they really assess though with no workshop etc or without taking bits apart?
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      04-30-2014, 05:22 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lazza View Post
Should prob start a new thread, but has anyone had any experience with independent inspections. A guy I sold my E46 M3 too had one done by RAC (I think).

The guy was there for a couple hours. How much can they really assess though with no workshop etc or without taking bits apart?
When I bought mine (privately) I arranged with the then owner to visit a local BMW indi to get one done, as I reconned they will know the car better than a generic inspection. We both hung around for the 90 minutes and were both present when the report came back. The only thing they found was that one of my front heated seats was not working. No way I would have even thought of checking something like that.

Cost about £70 I think.
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      05-01-2014, 12:38 AM   #10
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335s have a problems list as long as your arm, mine has been to the garage several times this year for water pump, HPFP, autobox leak, bad coil...and it's going back in next week for a rear suspension knock.

I only suggested a M3 because they are supposed to be more reliable than the 335, though my mate had a fair number of problems with his. And when you consider most people end up modding their 335s with remaps/suspension upgrades it's probably cheaper just to buy a M3 in the first place. Especially when you remember mods adds no value to the car.
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      05-01-2014, 06:09 AM   #11
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I'd love an M3 but if I turn up at work with one it will be frowned upon as we're a 'sustainable' construction company.

I know a 335 isn't exactly sustainable, but it's not so in your face as an M3.

I think i'm going to ask the dealer if we can go to the nearest Indy for a check. Thanks for the list of potential problems
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      05-01-2014, 06:10 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjwojcik View Post
When I bought mine (privately) I arranged with the then owner to visit a local BMW indi to get one done, as I reconned they will know the car better than a generic inspection. We both hung around for the 90 minutes and were both present when the report came back. The only thing they found was that one of my front heated seats was not working. No way I would have even thought of checking something like that.

Cost about £70 I think.
Yeah think this is the way to go. I'm going to ask the dealer if he's happy to go to the nearest indy. He was happy with an independent inspection so I'm sure he'll be alright with it. He wants to sell a car at the end of the day!
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      05-02-2014, 04:15 AM   #13
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Dealer won't let the car off premises for half a day so a proper indy can do an inspection.

Should I walk?
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      05-02-2014, 08:39 AM   #14
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They are not too hard to inspect, take a mechanic with you if not sure about the normal stuff.
main thing is to get to start it from stone cold, no pre-warm up by the dealer so you can check for any rattling wastegate and if the HPFP is playing up by starting from stone cold it will run very badly for the first 30 sec - 1min

I've had 3 x 335i now and only one had wastegate rattle (my mileages were 50k, 90k and this one now has 190k!). If it runs dog rough from cold but fine after a minute likley to have HPFP problem - no way to tell in advance.

Wastegate rattle is easy to spot from cold, a horrible metalic rattle which calms down after a minute, they can go for ages like this gradually getting worse.
You can adjust them back up to reduce the rattle but no way of stopping it short of changing the turbos which is a big bill and wont be covered under a regular used car warranty (2 x turbos can be got for £900 plus vat, fitting is likely to be £600-£800)

My old 335i is now on 100k miles and still has no w/g rattle, keep looking till you find one that wont rattle or buy it cheap and ignore it.
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      05-02-2014, 10:48 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surrey 335i View Post
They are not too hard to inspect, take a mechanic with you if not sure about the normal stuff.
main thing is to get to start it from stone cold, no pre-warm up by the dealer so you can check for any rattling wastegate and if the HPFP is playing up by starting from stone cold it will run very badly for the first 30 sec - 1min

I've had 3 x 335i now and only one had wastegate rattle (my mileages were 50k, 90k and this one now has 190k!). If it runs dog rough from cold but fine after a minute likley to have HPFP problem - no way to tell in advance.

Wastegate rattle is easy to spot from cold, a horrible metalic rattle which calms down after a minute, they can go for ages like this gradually getting worse.
You can adjust them back up to reduce the rattle but no way of stopping it short of changing the turbos which is a big bill and wont be covered under a regular used car warranty (2 x turbos can be got for £900 plus vat, fitting is likely to be £600-£800)

My old 335i is now on 100k miles and still has no w/g rattle, keep looking till you find one that wont rattle or buy it cheap and ignore it.

Thanks for the advice. As I said earlier in my thread, it kinda ran like shit for 30 secs to a min and then seemed to settle to idle nicely - just like the E46 M3's did when started cold. I'm pretty sure there was no dealer warm up as he arrived at the site when I did.

I think I'm going to walk from this one for a couple of reasons:

He was a 'geezer'
swore too much
had too many range rovers with chrome wheels
called me man or mate too much

I'm very much a believer in going with your gut........!

I've found a nice space grey example with the original 18" MV alloys still on it. 1 owner car and whoever bought it obviously wasn't too blingey or into modifying things, or hopefully thrashing the hell out of them. I've been quoted a fair price on BMW comp warranty and i've got a good feeling about this one. The guy on the phone sounded very professional too. Bristol here we come tomorrow, armed with plastic.

The only down side......BMAutosport aren't open monday to fit some shiny new black shoes!
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