[AltecBX]

Originally Posted by Drakos

Well, I finally bit the bullet and got myself a Cobb from Mike at N54Tuning. I have been absent from the forums for a while and just getting back into tuning options again. I am transitioning from a JB3 and was contemplating getting a JB4 but wanted to try something new. The feedback on the Cobb has been overwhelming. I just want some feedback on which settings and map I should be trying when I do my install. I read up a little on the difference between stock and linear throttle and am still undecided. I drove on JB3 map 5 as my daily map. I fill up with Husky 94 octane. Here is a list of some of my mods:

AR Catless DP
Helix FMIC
BMW Performance Exhaust
BMS DCI
Forge DV's
Evolution Racewerks Charge Pipe

Thanks so much for the suggestions in advance. I'm pretty excited to get this installed

I would start with Stage1+FMIC aggressive and do some logs.
But based on your mods & octane your using I believe you can skip that and go to Stage2+FMIC Aggressive. If you don't see any timing correction you should look into ATR to make it more powerful

[M5Rlz]

Guys ive just done like 3 wots all 110+ and can't throw the boost leak code. Is it at all possible this was just an adaptation issue from the new part or did I pick the wrong stage1 aggressive map? They basically told me don't come back until the codes are back and if I'm not throwing them on stock wouldn't matter anyway.

[AltecBX]

Originally Posted by 335iRlz

Guys ive just done like 3 wots all 110+ and can't throw the boost leak code. Is it at all possible this was just an adaptation issue from the new part or did I pick the wrong stage1 aggressive map? They basically told me don't come back until the codes are back and if I'm not throwing them on stock wouldn't matter anyway.

What do you mean. Did they fix it? If not, have you looked to see if the clamps are on tight to the hoses?

[M5Rlz]

Originally Posted by AltecBX

What do you mean. Did they fix it? If not, have you looked to see if the clamps are on tight to the hoses?

No. I uninstalled Cobb after the codes and they (dealer) said until they have codes to read wait. So ive been going wot all morning and it seems fine and isn't throwing anything on stock settings (I just hit 127 on ds) I can't even change the oil bro no way I could take the bumper off to check the clamps lol


That's why I was curious if maybe I did a dirty install and it just needed to be reflashed (I mean I sat in the parking lot after I paid loading the Cobb lol ), or if this is an issue only the increased boost request will expose.

[AltecBX]

No need to take bumper off. All you need to do is take off the undercarriage cover which is held by like 8 screws. If not, try to look with a flash light if you can.

Stock pressure is 8.5psi max. You won't put that much stress in stock trim.

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by 335iRlz

No. I uninstalled Cobb after the codes and they said until they have codes to read wait. So ive been going wot all morning and it seems fine and isn't throwing anything on stock settings (I just hit 127 on ds) I can't even change the oil bro no way I could take the bumper off to check the clamps lol

If you’re not throwing codes for it, it is extremely unlikely you have a boost leak, regardless of whether Cobb is installed or not. To be certain, install cobb for datalogging purposes and grab a log, you can use the stock map if you want but it really doesn’t matter. See how the actual boost matches up to requested boost, then you’ll know 100%. But TBH your car sounds like it’s fine dude..

[M5Rlz]

Originally Posted by AltecBX

No need to take bumper off. All you need to do is take off the undercarriage cover which is held by like 8 screws. If not, try to look with a flash light if you can.

Stock pressure is 8.5psi max. You won't put that much stress in stock trim.

Will do thanks again. I'm ducking out of class early to go home and if I can try to get some pictures to post.

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by Drakos

Well, I finally bit the bullet and got myself a Cobb from Mike at N54Tuning. I have been absent from the forums for a while and just getting back into tuning options again. I am transitioning from a JB3 and was contemplating getting a JB4 but wanted to try something new. The feedback on the Cobb has been overwhelming. I just want some feedback on which settings and map I should be trying when I do my install. I read up a little on the difference between stock and linear throttle and am still undecided. I drove on JB3 map 5 as my daily map. I fill up with Husky 94 octane. Here is a list of some of my mods:

AR Catless DP
Helix FMIC
BMW Performance Exhaust
BMS DCI
Forge DV's
Evolution Racewerks Charge Pipe

Thanks so much for the suggestions in advance. I'm pretty excited to get this installed

You paid good money to go FBO, so use FBO maps! If your car is healthy it will take to Stg2+ aggressive just fine, in all seriousness it isn’t that aggressive a map to begin with. Take some logs/post them up here, and then decide if you want to dial it back or ramp up to the race maps or a protune. IMO there’s no sense in starting off with substantially weaker maps, your car isn’t going to be hurt by Stg2+. Go for it.

[M5Rlz]

Originally Posted by 135Pats

If you’re not throwing codes for it, it is extremely unlikely you have a boost leak, regardless of whether Cobb is installed or not. To be certain, install cobb for datalogging purposes and grab a log, you can use the stock map if you want but it really doesn’t matter. See how the actual boost matches up to requested boost, then you’ll know 100%. But TBH your car sounds like it’s fine dude..

I hope so i really dont want those codes and logs again lol I am in love with the Cobb and just how sweet a sleeper this car can be

Although if I start seeing 420hp ctses it might get less fun lol


So it threw it on wot 1 lmao back at the dealer now basically I'm leaving the Cobb on the car, are the various mods distinguishable from "tuner code" ie can they go oh that's a cobb car, thats a dinan car, that's a proceed and so on? Not that it matters cause if they void all my coverage nothing I can do because it will only throw codes on WOT.

[racerg35335]

Hey guys, I am currently running a custom e30 map made on ATR and the car feels great and my logs look good except for fuel pressure. I haven't gotten a CEL but checked codes the other day and had 2aaf (fuel pump plausibility.. which I have had for a while) and 2A2D (low LPFP). I did some logs and my LPFP is def low especially under load. Even at idle it is sometimes not in the 70's (usually after a few WOT runs) as it should be. It actually dipped into the 20's on a couple logs. From what I can see the my trims don"t look bad, although the probably could use some adjustment, and my AFR seems in check. I am at a loss as to what is going on. I have attached a log to see if anyone has any idea as to what is going on. I also thought it could be the lfp sensor going bad? Any ideas are appreciated... Thanks!

[M3E46M]

Originally Posted by racerg35335

Hey guys, I am currently running a custom e30 map made on ATR and the car feels great and my logs look good except for fuel pressure. I haven't gotten a CEL but checked codes the other day and had 2aaf (fuel pump plausibility.. which I have had for a while) and 2A2D (low LPFP). I did some logs and my LPFP is def low especially under load. Even at idle it is sometimes not in the 70's (usually after a few WOT runs) as it should be. It actually dipped into the 20's on a couple logs. From what I can see the my trims don"t look bad, although the probably could use some adjustment, and my AFR seems in check. I am at a loss as to what is going on. I have attached a log to see if anyone has any idea as to what is going on. I also thought it could be the lfp sensor going bad? Any ideas are appreciated... Thanks!

Have you tried running less agressive map to see if you throw codes? E30 is a BETA race map isn't it? What mods do you have? If you still under warranty try to have your LPFP and HPFP replaced under a recall. I had mine done. I think even if you are not under warranty BMW might still do it under the racall.

[Ænema]

Originally Posted by racerg35335

Hey guys, I am currently running a custom e30 map made on ATR and the car feels great and my logs look good except for fuel pressure. I haven't gotten a CEL but checked codes the other day and had 2aaf (fuel pump plausibility.. which I have had for a while) and 2A2D (low LPFP). I did some logs and my LPFP is def low especially under load. Even at idle it is sometimes not in the 70's (usually after a few WOT runs) as it should be. It actually dipped into the 20's on a couple logs. From what I can see the my trims don"t look bad, although the probably could use some adjustment, and my AFR seems in check. I am at a loss as to what is going on. I have attached a log to see if anyone has any idea as to what is going on. I also thought it could be the lfp sensor going bad? Any ideas are appreciated... Thanks!

Your LPFP is in the process of crapping out on you and it's unable to keep up with the E30 fueling mix. My advice would be to look into a LPFP upgrade. Whether it be the DIY inline boost-a-pump, the in tank Walbro 455lph pump or the Vishnu setup. Although, IMHO, the Vishnu setup is over priced by a pretty wide margin...

[AltecBX]

Originally Posted by racerg35335

Hey guys, I am currently running a custom e30 map made on ATR and the car feels great and my logs look good except for fuel pressure. I haven't gotten a CEL but checked codes the other day and had 2aaf (fuel pump plausibility.. which I have had for a while) and 2A2D (low LPFP). I did some logs and my LPFP is def low especially under load. Even at idle it is sometimes not in the 70's (usually after a few WOT runs) as it should be. It actually dipped into the 20's on a couple logs. From what I can see the my trims don"t look bad, although the probably could use some adjustment, and my AFR seems in check. I am at a loss as to what is going on. I have attached a log to see if anyone has any idea as to what is going on. I also thought it could be the lfp sensor going bad? Any ideas are appreciated... Thanks!

Your LPFP might not be supporting the amount of E85 you're using. Look into upgrading your Lower pump soon if you're going to be running ≥E40.

Originally Posted by labedra

Have you tried running less agressive map to see if you throw codes? E30 is a BETA race map isn't it? What mods do you have? If you still under warranty try to have your LPFP and HPFP replaced under a recall. I had mine done. I think even if you are not under warranty BMW might still do it under the racall.

The dealer only hasa recall on the HPFP.

Originally Posted by Ænema

Your LPFP is in the process of crapping out on you and it's unable to keep up with the E30 fueling mix. My advice would be to look into a LPFP upgrade. Whether it be the DIY inline boost-a-pump, the in tank Walbro 455lph pump or the Vishnu setup. Although, IMHO, the Vishnu setup is over priced by a pretty wide margin...

+1.

[M3E46M]

READ THIS THREAD AS IT MIGHT NOT BE LPFP.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=589990

[Ænema]

Originally Posted by labedra

READ THIS THREAD AS IT MIGHT NOT BE LPFP.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=589990

If you're talking about a connection or hose coming loose in the tank that is possible. However, either way a fix will require the pump to be pulled anyway. If I have the pump out I would just throw the Walbro 455lph in there just to be done with it and not have to worry about running out of low pressure fuel. Besides, it's only like $260 with install kit.

[M5Rlz]

Think my baby is fixed (hose disconnected) I just worry about the techs having access to my car and getting to go WOT when it isn't properly warmed up like I do it

If I'm not mistaken Stage1+FMIC aggressive is a lot of PSI to go cold WOT

[racerg35335]

Originally Posted by labedra

Have you tried running less agressive map to see if you throw codes? E30 is a BETA race map isn't it? What mods do you have? If you still under warranty try to have your LPFP and HPFP replaced under a recall. I had mine done. I think even if you are not under warranty BMW might still do it under the racall.

I was waiting to run most of the e30 out of the tank before I switched back to a gas map. I am not using the ots e30 beta maps as I do not have downpipes, I made a less aggressive map on ATR. I'll have to see what it looks like on a gas map over the weekend.

[racerg35335]

Originally Posted by Ænema

Your LPFP is in the process of crapping out on you and it's unable to keep up with the E30 fueling mix. My advice would be to look into a LPFP upgrade. Whether it be the DIY inline boost-a-pump, the in tank Walbro 455lph pump or the Vishnu setup. Although, IMHO, the Vishnu setup is over priced by a pretty wide margin...

I was afraid of that, but was surprised I wasn't running lean and still had trims in check. I have looked into both options (not Vishnu... Its def overpriced) but if the pump is on the way out I guess the only thing to do would be replace it completely with the Walbro. You mentioned it was $260 with the install kit. I haven't seen the kit.. only the pump. I have no problem putting a fuel pump in but am a bit nervous about splicing wires in my fuel tank. Do you have a link or know where I can find info on the complete kit? I have just seen BMS's DIY using the Walbro pump and various connectors, hoses, etc... Once again... thanks and I am loving the ethanol map... other than this hiccup. lol

Originally Posted by labedra

READ THIS THREAD AS IT MIGHT NOT BE LPFP.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=589990

Thanks for the info. I'll def look into that while I'm in there. Either way I guess I'll throw a Walbro in so I can run more ethanol, Love the stuff!!

[Ænema]

Originally Posted by racerg35335

I was afraid of that, but was surprised I wasn't running lean and still had trims in check. I have looked into both options (not Vishnu... Its def overpriced) but if the pump is on the way out I guess the only thing to do would be replace it completely with the Walbro. You mentioned it was $260 with the install kit. I haven't seen the kit.. only the pump. I have no problem putting a fuel pump in but am a bit nervous about splicing wires in my fuel tank. Do you have a link or know where I can find info on the complete kit? I have just seen BMS's DIY using the Walbro pump and various connectors, hoses, etc... Once again... thanks and I am loving the ethanol map... other than this hiccup. lol

Yeah, i guess i shouldn't have said "kit." As far as i know there is no vehicle specific kit, it's just special e85 connectors that still require splicing. If someone were to release connector adapters specifically for our cars i'm sure they would sell like hot cakes...

http://www.driven2automotive.com/wal...fuel-pump.html

[M3E46M]

Originally Posted by labedra

Thanks,

I checked the Requested Boost and Boost Mean Abs and the difference is +/- 1 so I guess I do not have boost leak but what bothers me is that I do not see a lot more negative pressure/vacum under the whole boost log. I never see more NEGATIVE boost/Vacum then -0.48 in the logs. Is this a COBB glitch or is something wrong with my car, because I see other forum user logs and they have -11.X when under vacum? Any turbo car that I have driven had vacum more way more then what my log shows. If anyone knows let me know.

FYI - contacted COBB about this and they replied that this is normal under the new firmware so don't stress if you don't see vacum reading.

[romanonj]

Is IKBOS IS the onle 335IS map available?

[pylepilot]

First post ever in my life.

Wife gave the nod for getting a used 335i the other day. On a minimal budget. Found a clean 2007, with the options I want, but then read somewhere about how 2007's can have more problems when tuning than the 2008's. I called Cobb on Friday and their rep recommended I look for a 2008 or newer. If it is just a small difference between the two, then I'm ok with that (due to the awesome offer I have on the 2007). However if the difference is such that once I tune the 07 I will have more problems than if I tuned an 08+, then I will wait for a good deal on an 08.

The max engine tuning I would plan on getting is the stage 2+ with the required supporting mods. I know the 07 sport option does not come with an oil cooler, but I found an FMIC/OIL cooler combo that would probably work (being that I would need the FMIC for stage 2+ anyways. I also like that with the early 2007 automatics the rear end is bolted making for an LSD cheaper.
That being said, my main question is 07 or 08+? However, any supporting info would be much appreciated.