[lawwailok]

man, it's so hot to step out under the sun at 105F, but i just cranked it up, no strange idle, no warning lights or nothing... so i guess it's good to go... thanks for the help guys

edit: just scanned, came out some weird throttle plate error code and the butterfly valve code from BT, cleared them, all good now
but this is one good experience to me... really scare the shit out of me.. hahahaha

[bkrM3]

Originally Posted by Jed

My car is 100% stock and I've been having the same issues as you. Under WOT at low rpms in higher gears, I get the stuttering thing happening-past 2.5K rpms it's fine.

Brought it in for the dealership to look at and now it's stumbling at higher rpms. This afternoon, I was on the highway and passed someone and the SES light comes on and the motor's shaking at 3K rpms. I downshift so that I am at 4K and it's smoother.

Decided to bring it to the dealer and when I got to a stoplight, engine smoothed out and the SES light went off.

ARGH!!!! Hopefully they can get this resolved. I got my car brand new and it's now got ~74K miles and I've had no real issues with this car with the exception of wastegate rattle (had turbos replaced)!

I know this is somewhat tangential for this thread since the OP was discussing resets by BT and troubleshooting while tuned - however, I just wanted to chime in quickly. My car had been doing this exact thing - low RPMs, high boost, stutter, stutter SES light...crazy vibration, then eventually SES goes off by itself. Today I took it into the dealer and I got it to do it just before pulling in - drove into the service bay with a really obvious misfire. Got my SA to take a ride with me and the SES light stayed on the whole time (so maybe this actually gets worse after you make it do it 15 times like I have...). Car is at the dealer now and I have a 535 GT loaner (ugly looking thing, but nice to drive...).

Before this weird SES problem my car has been bone stock (although I had a DCI on for like a week and removed it when this stupid problem started happening - definitely not related to the DCI, it turns out) and has had all injectors changed, plugs changed, coils changed. Last week the dealer tried to address SES thing but read a VANOS code, "fixed" that, then gave it back to me without testing the SES issue I reported at full operating temperature. Will keep you guys posted on how (err....if...) they fix it.

[Jed]

Originally Posted by joec500

Mine does the same thing, but very intermittently, let me know your findings. Also did you try pulling your codes? Because when I get home to pull the codes none exist. Both Shadow and normal codes....strange stuff

Originally Posted by bkr335

I know this is somewhat tangential for this thread since the OP was discussing resets by BT and troubleshooting while tuned - however, I just wanted to chime in quickly. My car had been doing this exact thing - low RPMs, high boost, stutter, stutter SES light...crazy vibration, then eventually SES goes off by itself. Today I took it into the dealer and I got it to do it just before pulling in - drove into the service bay with a really obvious misfire. Got my SA to take a ride with me and the SES light stayed on the whole time (so maybe this actually gets worse after you make it do it 15 times like I have...). Car is at the dealer now and I have a 535 GT loaner (ugly looking thing, but nice to drive...).

Before this weird SES problem my car has been bone stock (although I had a DCI on for like a week and removed it when this stupid problem started happening - definitely not related to the DCI, it turns out) and has had all injectors changed, plugs changed, coils changed. Last week the dealer tried to address SES thing but read a VANOS code, "fixed" that, then gave it back to me without testing the SES issue I reported at full operating temperature. Will keep you guys posted on how (err....if...) they fix it.

Dealer just called me-my car is ready. According to the SA, it was the low pressure fuel pump.

I'll be picking it up in an hour and see if these symptoms are gone.

And bkr335? Not a fan of the 535GT? Try rocking a 128i convertible with an automatic... I would've rather had the E91 328i.

[bkrM3]

Originally Posted by Jed

Dealer just called me-my car is ready. According to the SA, it was the low pressure fuel pump.

I'll be picking it up in an hour and see if these symptoms are gone.

And bkr335? Not a fan of the 535GT? Try rocking a 128i convertible with an automatic... I would've rather had the E91 328i.

Ha - don't get me wrong, the 535GT is great to drive, but the looks of it haven't yet grown on me (not sure they will). I just got a call from my SA, who says they found a bad coil. Why a bad coil would act up only at full temp, and only at low RPM/high boost is beyond me.

To me it felt much more like a fuel pump problem when it was happening. They're keeping mine overnight to let the shop manager drive it home and back to test it.

And re: loaners....trust me I know your agony - I felt lucky to get the GT today, I usually get a non-sport 328i convertible. Yuck.

[Jed]

Yeah, that's strange that there are 2 different explanations for similar conditions. I guess I'll find out shortly what the deal is...

EDIT: Update. SA just called me back and said that when they just road tested the car, the issue came back again-replacing the LPFP didn't fix it. So they are keeping it for another day.

I might have to start driving the E36 again.

[addicted2drums]

if you disconnect the battery will it do the same thing as you are doing with the scanner?

[lawwailok]

Originally Posted by lawwailok

man, it's so hot to step out under the sun at 105F, but i just cranked it up, no strange idle, no warning lights or nothing... so i guess it's good to go... thanks for the help guys

edit: just scanned, came out some weird throttle plate error code and the butterfly valve code from BT, cleared them, all good now
but this is one good experience to me... really scare the shit out of me.. hahahaha

from my previous post, today i drove the car long enough, obviously it doesn't help the idle problem.. next i'll give the plugs a try........ man... that shudder really annoys me....

[bkrM3]

Originally Posted by Jed

Yeah, that's strange that there are 2 different explanations for similar conditions. I guess I'll find out shortly what the deal is...

EDIT: Update. SA just called me back and said that when they just road tested the car, the issue came back again-replacing the LPFP didn't fix it. So they are keeping it for another day.

I might have to start driving the E36 again.

Your SA should coordinate with my SA hahaha. No word yet on whether mine is fixed, but I'm going to "road test" it myself pretty thoroughly before I leave the vicinity of the dealer...To my knowledge, they've only changed the "bad" coil so far. Will keep you posted


*****EDIT******
Picked up car - yesterday they told me it was a bad coil but today my documentation read a bit different: "Check engine light on - Fault 29CE misfire cylinder 2; Ran test plan, says to program vehicle - also followed bulletin 120610. Programmed vehicle per test plan. Swapped injector 2 to 5 and replaced seals per bulletin."

Parts - 2x part number 13-53-7-584-315 - Gasket Ring

I tested the hell out of it. Full temp (a whisker under 250), gears 3, 4, 5 and 6 from various low RPMs. Problem *seems* to be fixed.

[Jed]

Originally Posted by bkr335

Your SA should coordinate with my SA hahaha. No word yet on whether mine is fixed, but I'm going to "road test" it myself pretty thoroughly before I leave the vicinity of the dealer...To my knowledge, they've only changed the "bad" coil so far. Will keep you posted


*****EDIT******
Picked up car - yesterday they told me it was a bad coil but today my documentation read a bit different: "Check engine light on - Fault 29CE misfire cylinder 2; Ran test plan, says to program vehicle - also followed bulletin 120610. Programmed vehicle per test plan. Swapped injector 2 to 5 and replaced seals per bulletin."

Parts - 2x part number 13-53-7-584-315 - Gasket Ring

I tested the hell out of it. Full temp (a whisker under 250), gears 3, 4, 5 and 6 from various low RPMs. Problem *seems* to be fixed.

Sounds like I may be going down the same path with the injectors. SA called me and confirmed that replacing the LPFP didn't do anything-it was still misfiring. So tomorrow, they're going to look at the injectors.

Glad your situation worked out! No more 535 GT!

[bkrM3]

FYI - http://www.bmwtis.com/tsb/bulletins/...p/B120610g.htm

July 2010 TSB - N54 - Misfire Faults, Diagnosis with ISTA D

[joec500]

Originally Posted by bkr335

FYI - http://www.bmwtis.com/tsb/bulletins/...p/B120610g.htm

July 2010 TSB - N54 - Misfire Faults, Diagnosis with ISTA D

Nice to see the updated Diag Tree...I love the note about modded cars.

[lawwailok]

Originally Posted by joec500

Nice to see the updated Diag Tree...I love the note about modded cars.

LOL, that's really sucks. what if the owner has PE but no prove of installed by a bmw dealer?

[joec500]

Originally Posted by lawwailok

LOL, that's really sucks. what if the owner has PE but no prove of installed by a bmw dealer?

Considering if you have to get the DME coded for the PE kit, this data would be entered in the National BMW system. I don't think an independent shop can encode the DME for the PE kit.

[lawwailok]

Originally Posted by joec500

Considering if you have to get the DME coded for the PE kit, this data would be entered in the National BMW system. I don't think an independent shop can encode the DME for the PE kit.

i mean the performance exhaust

[joec500]

Originally Posted by lawwailok

i mean the performance exhaust

Ahhh got it..my bad

[Jed]

Originally Posted by Jed

Sounds like I may be going down the same path with the injectors. SA called me and confirmed that replacing the LPFP didn't do anything-it was still misfiring. So tomorrow, they're going to look at the injectors.

Glad your situation worked out! No more 535 GT!

Hmmmm... Techs have ruled out the injectors and now are doing a carbon buildup clean out to see if that's what causing it. Ugh!

[bkrM3]

Originally Posted by Jed

Hmmmm... Techs have ruled out the injectors and now are doing a carbon buildup clean out to see if that's what causing it. Ugh!

Hey - at least they're trying to fix the problem and not trying to tell you it was VANOS sticking!

Hope they figure it out soon - keep us updated. This is a great thread I think because there are so many odd glitches with the N54 and most threads just get destroyed by people going "ohhhh! sounds like HPFP to me!"

[lawwailok]

i think i did the reset right this time, while the car is running, and obviously each reset took a while to finish in order to proceed to another one, so far a 20 mins driving and testing it out, no stumbling, and each traffic light i stopped, the idle seems pretty sweet, no studder or vibrate so far. i'll give it a few more days to see.

[markham335i]

thank you for the post mr. 5...

i have a small review.. i did exactly what the post told me to do and when i started the car for the first time i threw a throttle adjustment code and the car sounded horrrrrrrrrrrrrrrriiiiiiibbbbbbbble it sounded like it was coughing jumping rev spikes like crazy... i got scared and shut the car off... turned it back on and it happend again, so i shut the car off and plugged the scan tool cleared the code and rest it... and it started fine everything is ok just a small scare lol will edit post tomorrow after testing on a cold start!

[ETS Michael]

http://www.bmwtis.com/tsb/bulletins/...p/B120610g.htm

Sounds exactly like the problem i'm having. I can't wait to get my car back. Thanks for posting this up.

[joec500]

Mr.5 you should add this to your original post. I am not sure how necessary it is to follow this procedure after re-setting adaptations, but BMW probably noted this for a reason...

Readapting the DME by means of a short test drive is recommended:

* Bring the engine to the normal operating temperature.

* Drive the vehicle at a speed of between 50-60 mph and engine speeds of 2,000-3,000 rpm for approximately 3 minutes (use manual gear shifting, if needed).

* Let the engine idle for approximately 5 minutes.

[AltecBX]

Very good info here.