[Jhin335]

Well i drive an 08 335i &I was in a wreck last October,a drunk driver rear ended me at an intersection. My car was in the repair shop from then till mid february, I finally got my car back, within 20 mins it over heats,so I call the shop back and they have it taken to bmw,they diagnose it and say they couldn't find what was wrong with it,and that it held pressure. I pick it up from them and as I'm driving it home,it overheats again for the second time. And so I have them pick it up again,and a few weeks go by and I didn't hear from them. finally they call me and tell me it's my waterpump and that they'll replace it for $1100.luckily I had warranty through the dealer I bought the car from so i just had to pay 100.it is now the end of March and I finally get it taken to them. After 3 weeks of waiting they call me and tell me my cars ready, but they couldn't get the new waterpump to turn on. So then I have it towed back to BMW. Not even two days after being there they call me and tell me the waterpump is shorted and that my DME is fried,so I'd have to pay them $3000 to replace it all.i tell them I don't have the money for it and that I'll just take it to my brothers. I get it towed to his house, and try to start my car,it just cranks over and over,(it worked before I had taken it to bmw).I was about to give up,until I came across a few threads on here,about how a 30 amp fuse could be the problem,or maybe the distribution box,or the DME. That's when I decide to purchase the Bentley Service manual,and the Bavarian Technic (basic) cable. after reading through what fuse fuses on the manual sure nuff, I found the one that was burnt which happened to be a 30amp,so that's how I figured out why my car wouldn't start,so after fixing that,I found the schematic that shows the electrical layout for the waterpump,).I ran the bav tech, and kept getting the dreaded 2e83&2e85 code , so that's when I decide to buy a power probe,(best $140 I've spent on a multimeter) and check the female connection to the waterpump #1 read 11.9 #2read 7.6-7.9 #3 didnt read,and #4 read 0.0 (ground),. After I realize that I wasn't getting power to the pump because of #3. I decided to check the fuse that's in the ecu compartment, it was good,BUT there was no power going to it at all. after a couple hours of researching, I came across a post that talked about how the distribution box on the battery powers the waterpump,and that if the "fuse" is burnt out. You'll have to replace the box as a whole unit which was $45.after replacing the box, I check the 50 amp fuse in the ecu box for the second time.There was power going to it!! so that's when I check pin#3 on the female connection to the waterpump and sure enough it has current Finally after everything, I connected my new waterpump and thermostat, my car has been running great for almost 3 days now! (I know I probably missed alot of stuff and didn't explain alot but I had to write this up quick,before my boss decides to look fire me for being gone a while)lol

[Jhin335]

Originally Posted by Sgop335

It certainly is!

May be he or she doesnt know

wrote a short story on everything.lol

[Jhin335]

Originally Posted by ZhengHai

Story! Or it didn't happen

Wrote the post on page 2.haha

[Newguy123]

damn i would put them on blast and send emails to bmw. thats some horse shit right there

[Sgop335]

Originally Posted by Jhin335

Well i drive an 08 335i &I was in a wreck last October,a drunk driver rear ended me at an intersection. My car was in the repair shop from then till mid february, I finally got my car back, within 20 mins it over heats,so I call the shop back and they have it taken to bmw,they diagnose it and say they couldn't find what was wrong with it,and that it held pressure. I pick it up from them and as I'm driving it home,it overheats again for the second time. And so I have them pick it up again,and a few weeks go by and I didn't hear from them. finally they call me and tell me it's my waterpump and that they'll replace it for $1100.luckily I had warranty through the dealer I bought the car from so i just had to pay 100.it is now the end of March and I finally get it taken to them. After 3 weeks of waiting they call me and tell me my cars ready, but they couldn't get the new waterpump to turn on. So then I have it towed back to BMW. Not even two days after being there they call me and tell me the waterpump is shorted and that my DME is fried,so I'd have to pay them $3000 to replace it all.i tell them I don't have the money for it and that I'll just take it to my brothers. I get it towed to his house, and try to start my car,it just cranks over and over,(it worked before I had taken it to bmw).I was about to give up,until I came across a few threads on here,about how a 30 amp fuse could be the problem,or maybe the distribution box,or the DME. That's when I decide to purchase the Bentley Service manual,and the Bavarian Technic (basic) cable. after reading through what fuse fuses on the manual sure nuff, I found the one that was burnt which happened to be a 30amp,so that's how I figured out why my car wouldn't start,so after fixing that,I found the schematic that shows the electrical layout for the waterpump,).I ran the bav tech, and kept getting the dreaded 2e83&2e85 code , so that's when I decide to buy a power probe,(best $140 I've spent on a multimeter) and check the female connection to the waterpump #1 read 11.9 #2read 7.6-7.9 #3 didnt read,and #4 read 0.0 (ground),. After I realize that I wasn't getting power to the pump because of #3. I decided to check the fuse that's in the ecu compartment, it was good,BUT there was no power going to it at all. after a couple hours of researching, I came across a post that talked about how the distribution box on the battery powers the waterpump,and that if the "fuse" is burnt out. You'll have to replace the box as a whole unit which was $45.after replacing the box, I check the 50 amp fuse in the ecu box for the second time.There was power going to it!! so that's when I check pin#3 on the female connection to the waterpump and sure enough it has current Finally after everything, I connected my new waterpump and thermostat, my car has been running great for almost 3 days now! (I know I probably missed alot of stuff and didn't explain alot but I had to write this up quick,before my boss decides to look fire me for being gone a while)lol

Very nice story

Summary, code 2e83 and 2e85

[ZhengHai]

Awesome story! I'm glad you got everything figured out!

[CantComplain]

I know this explanation and thread is old, but I see you still own the car and are somewhat active so I'm hoping you can clarify something for me.

Do you recall which fuse it was? Or even better, do you recall what the silly icon on the chart in the glovebox was? I have a similar situation and I believe I've pulled all the 30A fuses and they checked OK for continuity. I also have 2E85 code but have a DME issue (2ACC, 2ACB) that's thrown in as a variable. The car has never run while I've owned it so troubleshooting is a bit of an adventure. I was thinking the water pump was a secondary concern to the DME but based on your experience I think they could be related.

Since mine is a 2007 and the glovebox chart only marginally maps to the fusebox, I was hoping to see what system your fuse pertained to so I had a good place to start.

thanks for any insight.

Originally Posted by Jhin335

Well i drive an 08 335i &I was in a wreck last October,a drunk driver rear ended me at an intersection. My car was in the repair shop from then till mid february, I finally got my car back, within 20 mins it over heats,so I call the shop back and they have it taken to bmw,they diagnose it and say they couldn't find what was wrong with it,and that it held pressure. I pick it up from them and as I'm driving it home,it overheats again for the second time. And so I have them pick it up again,and a few weeks go by and I didn't hear from them. finally they call me and tell me it's my waterpump and that they'll replace it for $1100.luckily I had warranty through the dealer I bought the car from so i just had to pay 100.it is now the end of March and I finally get it taken to them. After 3 weeks of waiting they call me and tell me my cars ready, but they couldn't get the new waterpump to turn on. So then I have it towed back to BMW. Not even two days after being there they call me and tell me the waterpump is shorted and that my DME is fried,so I'd have to pay them $3000 to replace it all.i tell them I don't have the money for it and that I'll just take it to my brothers. I get it towed to his house, and try to start my car,it just cranks over and over,(it worked before I had taken it to bmw).I was about to give up,until I came across a few threads on here,about how a 30 amp fuse could be the problem,or maybe the distribution box,or the DME. That's when I decide to purchase the Bentley Service manual,and the Bavarian Technic (basic) cable. after reading through what fuse fuses on the manual sure nuff, I found the one that was burnt which happened to be a 30amp,so that's how I figured out why my car wouldn't start,so after fixing that,I found the schematic that shows the electrical layout for the waterpump,).I ran the bav tech, and kept getting the dreaded 2e83&2e85 code , so that's when I decide to buy a power probe,(best $140 I've spent on a multimeter) and check the female connection to the waterpump #1 read 11.9 #2read 7.6-7.9 #3 didnt read,and #4 read 0.0 (ground),. After I realize that I wasn't getting power to the pump because of #3. I decided to check the fuse that's in the ecu compartment, it was good,BUT there was no power going to it at all. after a couple hours of researching, I came across a post that talked about how the distribution box on the battery powers the waterpump,and that if the "fuse" is burnt out. You'll have to replace the box as a whole unit which was $45.after replacing the box, I check the 50 amp fuse in the ecu box for the second time.There was power going to it!! so that's when I check pin#3 on the female connection to the waterpump and sure enough it has current Finally after everything, I connected my new waterpump and thermostat, my car has been running great for almost 3 days now! (I know I probably missed alot of stuff and didn't explain alot but I had to write this up quick,before my boss decides to look fire me for being gone a while)lol

[jboyorak]

Originally Posted by CantComplain

I know this explanation and thread is old, but I see you still own the car and are somewhat active so I'm hoping you can clarify something for me.

Do you recall which fuse it was? Or even better, do you recall what the silly icon on the chart in the glovebox was? I have a similar situation and I believe I've pulled all the 30A fuses and they checked OK for continuity. I also have 2E85 code but have a DME issue (2ACC, 2ACB) that's thrown in as a variable. The car has never run while I've owned it so troubleshooting is a bit of an adventure. I was thinking the water pump was a secondary concern to the DME but based on your experience I think they could be related.

Since mine is a 2007 and the glovebox chart only marginally maps to the fusebox, I was hoping to see what system your fuse pertained to so I had a good place to start.

thanks for any insight.

How did you make out with this? I am under the same boat.

[delmarco]

Originally Posted by FCobra94

This.

Until then we'll just assume you bought $45 worth of gas and lit the car on fire to collect the insurance money.

[CantComplain]

Originally Posted by jboyorak

How did you make out with this? I am under the same boat.

Got your PM, figured I'd reply here in case it helps anyone in the future.

Long story short, my issue was not at all related to a water pump. While I had 2acb, 2acc and 2e85, the first two were resolved/worked around by replacing the fuse box, yes the fuse box, behind the glove compartment. Someone had removed it previously very carelessly and damaged the PC board. The guy who coded the DME for the car (it had been replaced just before I got it) caught this and soldered it back but I ended up replacing it entirely for insurance. As a part of that, the DME codes and the 2e85 code were cleared (or I cleared them and they didn't come back).

So it could have been a fuse or relay that got replaced as a part of the fusebox swap or the fusebox, or sunspots or something else. But it ended up going away. Hope that helps, but find it unlikely it will.

[jboyorak]

Originally Posted by CantComplain

Got your PM, figured I'd reply here in case it helps anyone in the future.

Long story short, my issue was not at all related to a water pump. While I had 2acb, 2acc and 2e85, the first two were resolved/worked around by replacing the fuse box, yes the fuse box, behind the glove compartment. Someone had removed it previously very carelessly and damaged the PC board. The guy who coded the DME for the car (it had been replaced just before I got it) caught this and soldered it back but I ended up replacing it entirely for insurance. As a part of that, the DME codes and the 2e85 code were cleared (or I cleared them and they didn't come back).

So it could have been a fuse or relay that got replaced as a part of the fusebox swap or the fusebox, or sunspots or something else. But it ended up going away. Hope that helps, but find it unlikely it will.

Mine didn't end up being the pump either. Mine was a connector that broke to the DME. Fixed it and issue went away!

[Mlyondev]

Originally Posted by Jhin335

Well i drive an 08 335i &I was in a wreck last October,a drunk driver rear ended me at an intersection. My car was in the repair shop from then till mid february, I finally got my car back, within 20 mins it over heats,so I call the shop back and they have it taken to bmw,they diagnose it and say they couldn't find what was wrong with it,and that it held pressure. I pick it up from them and as I'm driving it home,it overheats again for the second time. And so I have them pick it up again,and a few weeks go by and I didn't hear from them. finally they call me and tell me it's my waterpump and that they'll replace it for $1100.luckily I had warranty through the dealer I bought the car from so i just had to pay 100.it is now the end of March and I finally get it taken to them. After 3 weeks of waiting they call me and tell me my cars ready, but they couldn't get the new waterpump to turn on. So then I have it towed back to BMW. Not even two days after being there they call me and tell me the waterpump is shorted and that my DME is fried,so I'd have to pay them $3000 to replace it all.i tell them I don't have the money for it and that I'll just take it to my brothers. I get it towed to his house, and try to start my car,it just cranks over and over,(it worked before I had taken it to bmw).I was about to give up,until I came across a few threads on here,about how a 30 amp fuse could be the problem,or maybe the distribution box,or the DME. That's when I decide to purchase the Bentley Service manual,and the Bavarian Technic (basic) cable. after reading through what fuse fuses on the manual sure nuff, I found the one that was burnt which happened to be a 30amp,so that's how I figured out why my car wouldn't start,so after fixing that,I found the schematic that shows the electrical layout for the waterpump,).I ran the bav tech, and kept getting the dreaded 2e83&2e85 code , so that's when I decide to buy a power probe,(best $140 I've spent on a multimeter) and check the female connection to the waterpump #1 read 11.9 #2read 7.6-7.9 #3 didnt read,and #4 read 0.0 (ground),. After I realize that I wasn't getting power to the pump because of #3. I decided to check the fuse that's in the ecu compartment, it was good,BUT there was no power going to it at all. after a couple hours of researching, I came across a post that talked about how the distribution box on the battery powers the waterpump,and that if the "fuse" is burnt out. You'll have to replace the box as a whole unit which was $45.after replacing the box, I check the 50 amp fuse in the ecu box for the second time.There was power going to it!! so that's when I check pin#3 on the female connection to the waterpump and sure enough it has current Finally after everything, I connected my new waterpump and thermostat, my car has been running great for almost 3 days now! (I know I probably missed alot of stuff and didn't explain alot but I had to write this up quick,before my boss decides to look fire me for being gone a while)lol

Hey, saw same light when I was reading this, thank you !

I have an issue some what retailed to yours, I drive an E60 530xi 2007 face lift, quick throwback, a few weeks ago I was driving car and I got a warning (yellow) on the computer saying that the car is overheating, power is reduced to let the engine cool-down, and after 10 - 30 seconds it was all good. That massage did repeat a few times during other drives and after a week or so I got cylinders 1,2,3 stop working, then I did go to the service and the issue was resolved with a transistor change on the ECU/DME - MSD80 (if someone needs help with that, I'm happy to share a quick, easy and cheap fix ). After the DME fix I started driving the car again and the overheating warning was still coming up with error code 2e85, then I've checked the cooling fluid it was down with 1 liter, filled that up ( no idea how it happen) then I tested the cooling pump with the bleeding method and it was working fine. With that I was really confident that this issue was resolved, but today after a week has passed since I filled the cooling system and tested the pump, I drove the car for 50 km and the over heating warning did appear again, this morning before going on my way I did check the level of the cooling fluid and it was good.

And I was wondering if you can share a bit more details on the fuses in the ECU compartment on which side are they located in the compartment, is it only one or is there more than one, etc ( not really that technical, I need to see it before I can do it). And do you have an idea what the 2e85 code actually means, can it be something else on the ECU or it's more likely to be the fuses ? Has anyone by any chase encountered something like this ?

Tomorrow if will try to check the fuses in the ECU location.

[Mlyondev]

Originally Posted by Mlyondev

Hey, saw same light when I was reading this, thank you !

I have an issue some what retailed to yours, I drive an E60 530xi 2007 face lift, quick throwback, a few weeks ago I was driving car and I got a warning (yellow) on the computer saying that the car is overheating, power is reduced to let the engine cool-down, and after 10 - 30 seconds it was all good. That massage did repeat a few times during other drives and after a week or so I got cylinders 1,2,3 stop working, then I did go to the service and the issue was resolved with a transistor change on the ECU/DME - MSD80 (if someone needs help with that, I'm happy to share a quick, easy and cheap fix ). After the DME fix I started driving the car again and the overheating warning was still coming up with error code 2e85, then I've checked the cooling fluid it was down with 1 liter, filled that up ( no idea how it happen) then I tested the cooling pump with the bleeding method and it was working fine. With that I was really confident that this issue was resolved, but today after a week has passed since I filled the cooling system and tested the pump, I drove the car for 50 km and the over heating warning did appear again, this morning before going on my way I did check the level of the cooling fluid and it was good.

And I was wondering if you can share a bit more details on the fuses in the ECU compartment on which side are they located in the compartment, is it only one or is there more than one, etc ( not really that technical, I need to see it before I can do it). And do you have an idea what the 2e85 code actually means, can it be something else on the ECU or it's more likely to be the fuses ? Has anyone by any chase encountered something like this ?

Tomorrow if will try to check the fuses in the ECU location.

Hi All,

Just a small update from my end, hope it helps anyone else having this issue.
I've opened the ECU compartment and checked the fusses, in the E60 I don't have that fuse that all ware talking about (30,40A), I only have one 10A, and the 5 fuses that are together, anyway I pulled them all out and checked them with the multimeter and all ware good, then I started looking in the glovebox, checked a few 40A,60A, 30A and all ware okay, then I checked the fuse in the trunk one 10A good as well, then the strangest thing happen, I've put the car together and started the engine, for the first time in some time when I started the car the Fan actually started and the shutters I have in front on the front bumper (the car has the winter package) opened as well, I've also checked the if the cooling pump is working while the engine is working, it looked fine to me. Drove the car for around 10 - 20 min going on some hills and the overheating warning did not came up. Will drive it a bit more today to see if it will overheat.

Does anyone has an idea which fuse is the one on the E60?

here's some picks of the fuses in the ECU space.