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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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did my water pump just die?
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11-04-2012, 09:01 AM | #1 |
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did my water pump just die?
the car is a 2008 x5, the 3.0 model. When driving it makes this loud fan type noise. After driving for a few minutes, the iDrive brings up a warning message saying engine is hot, then it says to shut down the car due to overheating.
There is no check engine light, oil level is fine. Also, the heater will not blow hot air. The blower works, it's just like the heater doesnt work anymore (which makes me lean towards bad water pump) Thoughts? |
11-04-2012, 09:13 AM | #2 |
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Check your coolant level and do the venting procedure. If it doesn't recirculate the coolant and vent, then the water pump isn't working.
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11-04-2012, 09:31 AM | #3 | |
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Quote:
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11-04-2012, 01:06 PM | #4 |
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yup, let the car cool down, dont drive on the light.
check coolant, run the vent procedure as brad suggested and look for small return hose pumping pissing coolant back into the expansion tank. |
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11-05-2012, 01:51 AM | #5 |
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Just had this same experience happen on my 335i. It was the water pump...
Took it to the dealer, drove away (2.5 wks later) with new water pump, and new turbos, at a cost of $50. Gotta love the extended warranty. |
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11-06-2012, 12:09 PM | #8 |
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The exact same thing happened to me last week. I drive a 2007 328i (US specs) with about 80,000 miles on the gauge. First thing, I noticed that the fan would come on after about 20 seconds from crank. Even though the outside temperature is around 45F at the moment... Then I noticed that the heater was not working. I was driving relative short distances (approximately 5-8 miles max) and made an appointment with the dealer for a check.
Unfortunately, before my dealer appointment, I drove on the highway at about 65mph and the orange warning light came on. I slowed down to about 45mph and about 20 seconds later the red light came on. I stopped immediately and let the engine cool down. I checked the actual water temperature through the hidden board computer. It was beyond 120C (248F), that is the normal setting for the orange light to come on. I think, but i'm no sure, that at 128C (262F) the red light comes on. Anyway, I let the engine cool to 80C (176F) and drove to the nearest dealer. I had to repeat the "cool down action" a few times... I hope I didn't cause any further damage; I just didn't feel like waiting for the AAA, etc.. Do NOT drive with the red light on. Switch off IMMEDIATELY or you can break the head gasket. That is a very expensive repair! Anyway, yesterday, the dealer diagnosed a broken water pump. I'm not sure about the thermostat, but that one had already been replaced at ~48,000 miles. Repair cost of the (electric, vario-speed) water pump: 700 euro ($900) including parts, labor, and tax. Pffff, not cheap. But then again, I can "handle" a $1000 annual maintenance fee for a 5.5-year old car and keep it in perfect condition for many years to come. It's better than the depreciation of a new car... I didn't have a "check engine" light or other warning either. Good luck with the repair! |
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11-06-2012, 01:46 PM | #9 |
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that is exactly my symptoms and the car just sits in the driveway for now. need to get it towed to a shop for a fix. my dealer wants $1450 for water pump and t-stat.. def not going to them
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11-06-2012, 02:26 PM | #10 |
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Good luck on finding a local repair shop. Don't take my word for it, but if the distance that you have to drive to a shop is less than 5 miles (and without too much stop and go traffic), you might be able to drive there without overheating the engine and safe the expensive cost of a tow. You know how to monitor the engine temperature through the hidden board computer?
I would discourage you to tow the car with another car. Bear in mind that the steering is heavy, very heavy, and the brakes as well. Feels like you have to step on the brake with both feet to get the car to stop... So only tow at very low speed over very low distance. |
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