[Technic]

Originally Posted by jonywalker

Yeah really, but 6 sets instead of 2. Great tips, that simplify my work by lot.

You need a minimum of 2 sets (4 speakers, front and rear, inputs) with that amp, as it will use either the front or the sum of the front and rear input signals as the sub signal (page 7): http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/7208.pdf

[jonywalker]

Originally Posted by Technic

You need a minimum of 2 sets (4 speakers, front and rear, inputs) with that amp, as it will use either the front or the sum of the front and rear input signals as the sub signal (page 7): http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/7208.pdf

You have right, I just thought these speaker to RCA cables were for the outputs from JL Audio because I thought balanced input usaully use XLR socket for connector (in europe), but not, JL uses RCA sockets for input. As my configuration to use JL Audio 500/5 is of config.B, that uses exatly two sets of such cables, the sub channel uses the sum of front and rear automatically. Your experiences are very appreciated.
I checked my car for space of intallation yesterday, I really don't think there is any place for 500/5 in the car if not keep open. Alpine is much better for size, but as badfish mentioned he was not very satisfied with the bass, especially not enough for low frequence. So I have to go on with JL Audio, it has frequence responce with 5hz - 30khz on 0-1 dB, much better than pdx-5 with 20hz-20khz. So I have to make the decison for 300/2, for bass and for space.

[jonywalker]

Originally Posted by etik

Here after, you will find the list of all cables (main color/stripe color) that are used by both Hifi and Logic7 option. In case you would like to tap into the wire to add an extra amp or upgrade the existing one.

HIFI

Radio to Amplifier
FRONT LEFT
Yellow/Red +
Brown/Gold -
FRONT RIGHT
Blue/Red +
Brown/Gold -
REAR LEFT
Yellow/Black +
Brown/Gold -
REAR RIGHT
Blue/Black +
Brown/Gold -

Amplifier to Speakers
SUB LEFT
Red/White +
Brown/Yellow -
SUB RIGHT
Red/Blue +
Brown/White -
FRONT LEFT
Blue/White +
Blue/Brown -
FRONT RIGHT
Blue/Black +
Blue/Brown -
REAR LEFT
Yellow/Red +
Yellow/Brown -
REAR RIGHT
Blue/Green +
Blue/Brown -

LOGIC7 - Amplifier to Speakers

SUB LEFT
Red/White +
Brown/Yellow -
SUB RIGHT
Red/Blue +
Brown/White -
FRONT LEFT
Blue/White +
Blue/Brown -
FRONT RIGHT
Blue/Black +
Blue/Brown -
REAR LEFT
Yellow/Red +
Yellow/Brown -
REAR RIGHT
Blue/Green +
Blue/Brown -
CENTER
Black/White +
Black/Brown -
REAR LEFT WOOFER
Yellow/Red +
Yellow/Brown -
REAR RIGHT WOOFER
Blue/Green +
Blue/Brown -

I translated the above from the German abreviation found in the wiring diagrams, If you find some errors please let me know.

Wiring diagram's
Hifi
Logic7

Have FUN !

The wire-color coding may be not correct. My upgrated system using this color setting sounds a little disorder in phase, there might be some (+)(-) disordered pairs but I am not sure which one. Did anyone make a measurement after the system upgrade with special tools. Otherwise, I am waiting for my PXE-H650, it can also tell which channel has phase disorder.

[INeedHelp1234]

Hi i was wondering if anyone could help me. I have a Bmw E90. I'm from the UK and the its a 55plate car! Basically i want to add a amp and subwoofer in my car. How would i go about doing this? Ive looked everywhere and cant find nothing. I want to keep my Original Headunit. Thanks

[Lee Rambler]

Originally Posted by inthemiddle

The other little box is more like a little plastic rectangle, i've been lazy with pictures.. but good news.... I found a wire to use for remote turn on for the amp, I think....

That TCU box, once I finally gave up looking for these non-existant black and white wires by the amp everyone else was talking about (I have an e92 with idrive) .. I started checking pins on the TCU box (btw, when you unplug it when the radio is on, at least using the ipod input, the radio stops playing the ipod... it just pauses) .. anyway... as you unplug the plug from the box, leaving the plug facing the back of the car in its original orientation, the 4th pin from the right on the top row seems to switch on and off with 'the key'

2nd from the right is +12 all the time, you don't want that, go 4th from the right... I can't say which color wire it is at this point cause i was doing it in the dark in a parking garage at lunch....

Anyone used this ? or see any reason not to use this for a remote turn on for an amp ?

can't wait to finally get home tonight and hook up my amp and sub and FINALLY put the back of my car back together

this wire is switched (10.8volts though), however you should not use it - it has something to do with the air bag system, and has insufficient current to trigger amplifier(s). If you do use it, you need a standard bosch relay (ae5080) to handle the current. I still triggers a code to check the SRS system though, with a dash light lit up. I'd suggest tapping the 20amp radio fuse (can't remember the number, one of the 30's though I believe - just refer to the chart in the fuse box) as it is switched. Easy enough to run a wire back, but you should make sure to add a fuse for that line up at the fuse box too as you won't have the wire protected if you tap the hot side of the fuse (which should should so as to not tax the radio fuse). Make sure to use the 20amp radio fuse, it is the only switched one (the other 2 are constant). It does switch, though it stays on with the courtesy circuit for 5 minutes or so after the car is turned off, as do all of the switched circuits.

[fdriller9]

I'm scared to do my sws-8 and JL 500/1 install now....

[kaigoss69]

Originally Posted by *********

I'm scared to do my sws-8 and JL 500/1 install now....

Why? You will need a line output converter anyway to convert the high level output of the L7 amp to low level. Get an LOC with signal sensing capabilities which will provide you with a turn-on signal for the JL amp.

Edit: Or just use the amp's built-in signal sensing circuit (but you will still need an LOC) Also, that's a LOT of power for the SWS!!! If you're not careful, you may end up blowing them.

[fdriller9]

Originally Posted by kaigoss69

Why? You will need a line output converter anyway to convert the high level output of the L7 amp to low level. Get an LOC with signal sensing capabilities which will provide you with a turn-on signal for the JL amp.

Edit: Or just use the amp's built-in signal sensing circuit (but you will still need an LOC) Also, that's a LOT of power for the SWS!!! If you're not careful, you may end up blowing them.

Yea I'm not worried about the install itself...I'm more worried about wiring the amp and LOC. All my components should be here by this Thursday. So I have some time to research. And yea the JL is pretty beefy. All the gains will be at minimum levels when I start her up though so I think I'll be good. I posted a thread about settings for the JL 500/1 but noone has responded yet.

[fabgone]

Hello everybody. It's my first time here.

I hope you will understand my english ! I live in France, I'm 36 and my car is a 335 I coupé 2007 (black sapphir).

I would like to improve the stereo. It's the basic one (non logic 7) with 2 front speakers, 2 front woofers and two rear speakers
.
I would like to install a five channel Amp and a subwoofer I already have. So, the idea is to connect all the speakers to my new amp. I m' going to use 2 converters (Pac trunk or similar ) to get high level input.

My question is about the wire I have to tape in. What do you think I should do :

- using the signal coming from the radio unit (before entering the OEM amp) ?

- using the signal exiting the OEM amp (already amplified)

I think the sound will be better if I the signal coming from the Head unit . Are you agree with it ?

Thanks.

[Technic]

Originally Posted by fabgone

Hello everybody. It's my first time here.

I hope you will understand my english ! I live in France, I'm 36 and my car is a 335 I coupé 2007 (black sapphir).

I would like to improve the stereo. It's the basic one (non logic 7) with 2 front speakers, 2 front woofers and two rear speakers
.
I would like to install a five channel Amp and a subwoofer I already have. So, the idea is to connect all the speakers to my new amp. I m' going to use 2 converters (Pac trunk or similar ) to get high level input.

My question is about the wire I have to tape in. What do you think I should do :

- using the signal coming from the radio unit (before entering the OEM amp) ?

- using the signal exiting the OEM amp (already amplified)

I think the sound will be better if I the signal coming from the Head unit . Are you agree with it ?

Thanks.

There's no OEM amp in your Stereo system, so you only have one single option here.

[Franciebaby]

technic, what happened to the harness you were going to produce?

[Technic]

Originally Posted by Franciebaby

technic, what happened to the harness you were going to produce?

I made changes to the prototype parts received, so it got delayed a bit.

[nezoat]

Originally Posted by jonywalker

The wire-color coding may be not correct. My upgrated system using this color setting sounds a little disorder in phase, there might be some (+)(-) disordered pairs but I am not sure which one. Did anyone make a measurement after the system upgrade with special tools. Otherwise, I am waiting for my PXE-H650, it can also tell which channel has phase disorder.

I just use the wire guide info I found in this thread, and as you suspected, there is a mistake in the polarity. Both the front Left/Right have a Brown/Orange wire which is actually (+). Just reverse the polarity of the L/R front and you'll be fine. I discovered this after testing with a voltmeter using chasis ground as the reference point. The (+) wires carry about 70% of the balanced voltage and the (-) wires the other 30% (relative to chasis ground, mind you).

While it was wrong, my Kicker 2006 zx700.5 amp was confused all to hell and sounded OK but there was no stereo separation in the front channels until I corrected the polarity. Also, strangely, my fader and balance on my e90 HIFI didn't work quite right. I guess these balanced signals REALLY get weird when polarity isn't right.

[320D]

My god I have just read this thread, they certainly do like to make things difficult for DIYers don't they.

My issue and reason for posting is I don't have an amplifier on my car, I must have the bog standard head unit. So I pulled the boot lining out, no wires there. Next step was to try and get the head unit out... failed!

So, I went for the subs under the front seat, I've got the front passenger seat (UK so left side of vehicle) removed now and have taken the cover off the sub and found the wires that go to it which are Blue with a White stripe and Blue with a Brown stripe.

I think these will come straight from the back of the stereo since I don't have an amp in the boot at all, so am I ok tapping into these to power my Alpine V12 amp and sub that I want to put in the boot. The amp I am using has speaker level inputs built into it so I shouldn't need a level dropper.

If any of you think this is a bad idea please let me know or if there is a better place to pick up an audio feed on a system without an amp in the boot.

Cheers

[Technic]

Originally Posted by 320D

My god I have just read this thread, they certainly do like to make things difficult for DIYers don't they.

My issue and reason for posting is I don't have an amplifier on my car, I must have the bog standard head unit. So I pulled the boot lining out, no wires there. Next step was to try and get the head unit out... failed!

So, I went for the subs under the front seat, I've got the front passenger seat (UK so left side of vehicle) removed now and have taken the cover off the sub and found the wires that go to it which are Blue with a White stripe and Blue with a Brown stripe.

I think these will come straight from the back of the stereo since I don't have an amp in the boot at all, so am I ok tapping into these to power my Alpine V12 amp and sub that I want to put in the boot. The amp I am using has speaker level inputs built into it so I shouldn't need a level dropper.

If any of you think this is a bad idea please let me know or if there is a better place to pick up an audio feed on a system without an amp in the boot.

Cheers

Your idea is the same one that BMW actually uses to install their own OEM Alpine amplifier kit.

[320D]

Nice one, thanks for the reassurance and quick reply, I had to pop out so had to put the seat back in so I'm going to take it all apart again now and sort this while I've still got some light and it's not raining lol, gotta love British weather and not having a garage

[Jules-B]

Does this apply if i dont have the amplifier on the HIFI system?

[320D]

Hi mate

I am just in the finishing process of wiring up a non amplified system, I've had to go to the subs under the front seat, which are still there and active even on the non amplified system, I can only assume that the stereo fitted in the cars with no OEM amp in the boot still have a sub output.

I had to take the front seats out to give good access though, it's not a half hour job by any means. I've connected standard high grade speaker wire to the subs and have taken it through to the boot. My amp has a speaker level input so I'm just going to connect those wires to that input. I have literally just popped online to check where the best place is for the live feed is and I should have it done today (fingers crossed) so will update to let you know if it worked.

While your feeding the speaker wires through from the subs under the front seat it is well worth while taking the remote on wire for the amp from the cigar lighter through under the carpet as well. It's all quite accessible with the front seats out and you'll kick yourself if you don't do that at the same time.

[320D]

Sorry it took a while to update but it works like a charm, I had to play around with the +ve and -ve speaker wires as they didn't seem to correspond to the wiring colours listed in the previous posts.

I tapped off the wires going into the subs under the seats and fed those wires into the boot under the carpet and the rear seats, at the same time taking a remote wire from the cigar lighter back there as well. So glad BMW decided to put the battery in the boot as that made it much easier not having to run the main power cable through the car too.

Once I got the phasing of the speaker wires right into my amp it sounds awesome, don't forget my amp had a speaker level input, for others you will need to use a separate little addon to do that.

Hope this helps reassure others who's systems don't have the OEM amp in the boot. Just go straight for the subs under the front seats.

[lovemyBimmer]

alright, i tried to do this but it's bug'n me. i did the DIY with PAC SOEM-T: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...AC+SOEM-T.html. i connected both the positive wires to the Red/White + and Red/Blue + sub L/R and both the neg wires to the Brown/Yellow - and Brown/White - sub L/R. remote wire for device and amp to Brown/Yellow -. neg of device and amp to neg battery and pos of device and pos of amp to postive battery. start the car and turn the radio, works. but it will only work if the volume is low. when i turn it up the sub turns off. or if i'm driving and step on the gas more, the sub will turn off!
so what i did then was connect both neg wires of the device to the L Sub wire - Brown/Yellow - and both the pos wires of the device to the L Sub wire + Red/White + and kept everything else the same. it did the same thing, works on low volume or car in idle, sub will turn off in turning up the volume or car speeding up! WTF? please some help me out here, frustrated! should i hook up the remote to the 12v+ red/gray wire instead?? i dunno. help someone...thanks!
oh yeah, i was so frustrated i bought a different device: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...AC+SNI-35.html, did the same hook up on the speakers, still didn't work. this device doesn't have a remote wire, just hook it up to the speakers and neg to neg. still same result!

[Jaya3666]

Hi, greetings from Malaysia. This is my first post. I have an E90, I've upgraded the door and rear deck speakers to the BSW stage 1 but was not satisfied with the improvement. I'm about to change the underseat subs and am awaiting the spacers from Jason Sherri. I was wondering whether Technic had a harness that would allow me to upgrade my OEM amp to either the alpine pdx5 or the JL 6 channel. Mine is a non logic 7 system. How can I get in touch with him? BTW thanks to AzwillNJ for the instructions on the SWS8s

[quality_sound]

Adding the amp will do MUCH more for you than changing the speakers will. You can send Technic a PM or email.