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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY - E92 CDV (Clutch Delay Valve) Removal



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      12-21-2014, 08:10 PM   #331
Alarbus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cali 335 View Post
hmm interesting, i think i'm just gonna retrofit my stock one by popping out the center plastic POS and then just re-install it.. its free. I'm just gonna c-clamp it well and see how it goes.. Horefully, i dont need to bleed it.. there seems to be 50/50 consensus on this one...
Didn't need to bleed either of mine, but did have to bleed my Dad's car when we did it. All depends how much fluid you end up losing.

I just just popped out the center bit, an allen key works great once you've got it on a workbench.
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      12-22-2014, 02:08 AM   #332
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The gearing feels slow, rough and stubborn right now .. Especially in 1 and 2.. Good to know i can be fixed easily. Thanks guys
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      12-22-2014, 07:45 AM   #333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alarbus View Post
Didn't need to bleed either of mine, but did have to bleed my Dad's car when we did it. All depends how much fluid you end up losing.

I just just popped out the center bit, an allen key works great once you've got it on a workbench.
I did bleed mine when I did it and there were definitely some air bubbles in there. I had it c-clamped so not much fluid came out. I just removed the cdv piece all together. Didn't seem to put any stress on the like or anything. I think the only reason for keeping a modified one is if you have a warranty.

I already had a pressure bleeder hooked up because I was doing my brakes, but bleeding the clutch sucked. The bleed valve was so hard to get turned. I could only get it like 1/16 of a turn without readjusting the wrench. I ended up letting brake fluid spill bc I couldn't even get a wrench in there with my catch can on.

Any one have a suggestion on a specially bent wrench or something that would make this easier?
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      04-25-2015, 10:13 AM   #334
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I know this is an old thread bump, but I thought that I would post my input. I did a CDV delete on my e93 335i. The bleeder valve on my model is an 11mm plastic valve and is somewhat difficult to reach. Others in this thread discussed how difficult it was to access (albeit those posts were from years ago, so I'm sure they've found a solution by now).

Anyway, I ended up using an 11 mm socket with a swivel, 6 in extension and a small breaker bar (much easier than getting a ratchet quickly from F/R). I placed a drip pan under the bleeder screw to captured the brake fluid and had my wife pump the clutch. For what its worth, this process seemed to work well.
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      04-25-2015, 10:24 AM   #335
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Im just going to jump in once again and state that if you do it right, you dont need to bleed anything. I have probably done over 100 CDV changes at this point and not once have I had any issues. If anyone wants it done in about 10 minutes, contact me.
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      04-25-2015, 10:44 AM   #336
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HyperM3 View Post
Im just going to jump in once again and state that if you do it right, you dont need to bleed anything. I have probably done over 100 CDV changes at this point and not once have I had any issues. If anyone wants it done in about 10 minutes, contact me.
Fair enough. I was answering the question others posed about how to access the bleed screw not should you access the bleed screw.

I was changing pads and rotors as well. As part of my OCD PM schedule I bled the brakes and clutch.

Thanks for your input.
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      05-10-2015, 04:36 AM   #337
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How is the feeling of the clutch pedal after this mod ?
I'v done mine (335i xdrive) and the "slip point" (I don't know how to translate) is lower than before.
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      05-10-2015, 01:29 PM   #338
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bideul View Post
How is the feeling of the clutch pedal after this mod ?
I'v done mine (335i xdrive) and the "slip point" (I don't know how to translate) is lower than before.
It felt slightly more firm after bleeding the clutch, but that is totally subjective data.

Removing the valve should not change the clutch engagement point but it will change how quickly the clutch engages.
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      10-01-2016, 05:55 PM   #339
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do all restricted CDVs have stripes and numbers? i was getting ready to switch out my stock CDV (2011 335 xdrive) and i noticed that the stock CDV valve was all black, no stripes, no numbers, just like the M3 CDV valve i was about to put in.

i got the car CPO, so i suppose its possible someone has already switched it out with an M3 CDV, but it seems unlikely. has anyone seen a restricted CDV that's all black like the unrestriced M3 version?
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      10-01-2016, 10:13 PM   #340
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From outside they are same. You are probably looking at the pictures at ECS. Mine didn't have those stripes but inside had the restrictive insert.
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      10-02-2016, 08:08 AM   #341
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironduke2010 View Post
do all restricted CDVs have stripes and numbers? i was getting ready to switch out my stock CDV (2011 335 xdrive) and i noticed that the stock CDV valve was all black, no stripes, no numbers, just like the M3 CDV valve i was about to put in.

i got the car CPO, so i suppose its possible someone has already switched it out with an M3 CDV, but it seems unlikely. has anyone seen a restricted CDV that's all black like the unrestriced M3 version?
I have 6 CDV's on my workbench and they all have two stripes on them. A modified CDV can look exactly the same. All of these are OEM CDV's that I have modified(removed the insert).
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      10-02-2016, 03:07 PM   #342
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhaseP View Post
From outside they are same. You are probably looking at the pictures at ECS. Mine didn't have those stripes but inside had the restrictive insert.
thanks! yep, i switched them out, and the stock one i pulled off was restricted, and externally looked identical to the unrestriced one i installed.
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      08-03-2017, 06:06 PM   #343
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Just did the cdv delete on my 2010 335i....I can't believe it doesn't come this way from the factory...much sharper engagement...no more guessing on when to press the throttle while the clutch is still busy engaging as fluid moves thru the cdv restriction = much smoother shifts around town, and a better bite when getting on it
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      08-24-2017, 11:24 AM   #344
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Why the heck did I wait so long to do this mod? Bought the Zeckhausen CDV. Stop sign launches are so much easier now. Can't wait to test this at autocross.

1st to 2nd used to be my favorite, but now I'm thinking 2nd to 3rd is more fun due to the lack of delay!
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      08-28-2017, 11:13 PM   #345
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Did this today, thanks to those who contributed information to this thread. I lost a few drops of clutch fluid but did not bleed the line afterwards. The bite point has not moved. The car does feel better now, I can actually get the rear of the car to move when I want it to!
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      05-01-2018, 07:14 PM   #346
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Removed the CDV on my 2011 E91 XI.

Figured I might as well flush/bleed the brakes and clutch at the same time. I used a Motive Power Bleeder with 1L of BMW Fluid ($25 including HST from the dealer)

To access the CDV, I needed to remove the bottom plastic guard with the air access panel. It has 6 x 8mm and 1 x 10mm hex bolts.


To remove the CDV, first disconnect the hose from the metal clip to give you a bit more slack.


Then remove the two spring clips holding the CDV to the two hoses. I rotated the hose until I was able to put a small flathead screwdriver under the spring clip and pop it off. It will take a bit of force to pull the CDV away from both hoses.


With the CDV released, the two halves can just be pushed together, and the spring clip reinserted.


I bled the brakes in the following order: RR, RL, FR, FL, Clutch

The rear brakes use a 9mm bleed screw


The front brakes and the clutch use an 11mm bleed screw.

Once I bled the clutch I got in the car, pushed the clutch in and shifted gears, then re-bled the clutch and FL Brake. (I probably didn't need to re-bleed the brake, but it made me feel better)

Because I have an XI, the front driveshaft reduces the space available for your wrench, and only allows very small turns of the bleed screw. A ratcheting wrench would have saved a bit of time.
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      07-17-2018, 04:42 PM   #347
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I have had my car for 6 years now... and i have just done this. I am so fucken mad at myself for not doing this when i got it.
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      03-17-2019, 02:50 PM   #348
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Hi sorry to bring up and old post but I have to make a post reply before I can make my own thread apparently. Anyway question is I have a 2006 E90 318i and I am wondering if that has a cdv fitted to it and is it worth removing like it looks like it is on other models from what I've read thank you
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      03-17-2019, 02:53 PM   #349
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Discusdan View Post
Hi sorry to bring up and old post but I have to make a post reply before I can make my own thread apparently. Anyway question is I have a 2006 E90 318i and I am wondering if that has a cdv fitted to it and is it worth removing like it looks like it is on other models from what I've read thank you
Yes, there's a cdv on pretty much every BMW from that time.
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      03-17-2019, 06:22 PM   #350
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Thanks for reply mate
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      08-26-2019, 03:36 PM   #351
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Great post Jagaer! I've read every post on this thread and your is super helpful as I also have an LCI E91 Xi. What lift do you have in the first pic? I'm looking at the Quickjack 5000SLX. Cheers.
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      09-02-2019, 10:58 PM   #352
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oneball
Thanks for the kind words, glad it is of use to someone.

I got an EZ Car Lift Jack (https://www.ezcarlift.com), as it is non-hydraulic. I don't have the space (and move around too much) for a full two-post or four-post lift with proper safety features.

IIRC, the MaxJax at least has a couple of safety stops (Full height, and half height), but requires reinforced footings.

I looked at the QuickJack, but it didn't lift the car straight up, and only had one or two safety locks.

Ended up with the EZ Car Lift since it isn't hydraulic (limited complexity), it uses a fully mechanical screw gear powered by a corded drill instead. The jack lifts straight up, and has anti-sway cross bars. You can remove one of the two crossbars once the car is lifted, in case you are dropping a trans. The bar needs to be reinstalled before lowering the car.

There are tradeoffs, it doesn't lift quickly and the worm gear requires greasing.

I'm not a salesman, just trying to explain the background how I came to my decision
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