[bavaddict]

Hi All:

Recently picked up a set of KONI Yellows for my E92. Seller seems to have forgotten to send the white turn knob that comes with it. As of now it appears they are dialed in a lot stiffer than I would like them (guessing by my trial and error on how fast the shock decompresses when compressed by hand).

I am trying to get them install over the weekend and dont really want to wait for the knob to arrive but at the same time I dont want to install them and then have to take the rears out again to configure them properly.

Enough with the background.....how can adjust them safely aka dial them without f%*&ing things up?

Thanks all.

[feuer]

Use pliers, not sharp and pointy but flat and blocky type.

[bavaddict]

Hi All:

Tried with the needle nose pliers before getting them installed by indy and that works.

However, now they are installed and I wanna dial them a bit firm but cant get the needle nose plier in properly since the cross bar is obstructing the access.

Is it possible I am doing something wrong? Because, I don't think that I can even get the adjustment knob in there because of cross member bar.

How is everyone else doing it with or without the knob? I have to be doing something wrong, since plenty of folks have them on there.

Thanks for your input.

[Kgolf31]

Originally Posted by bavaddict

Hi All:

Tried with the needle nose pliers before getting them installed by indy and that works.

However, now they are installed and I wanna dial them a bit firm but cant get the needle nose plier in properly since the cross bar is obstructing the access.

Is it possible I am doing something wrong? Because, I don't think that I can even get the adjustment knob in there because of cross member bar.

How is everyone else doing it with or without the knob? I have to be doing something wrong, since plenty of folks have them on there.

Thanks for your input.

Remove the bolt that holds the crossmember bar and then move the bar out of the way. Adjust, and re install the bolt

[bavaddict]

Thanks Kgolf31.

I thought there might be lazier way lol.

Originally Posted by bavaddict

I thought there might be lazier way lol.

There is...Dinan.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by FCobra94

There is...Dinan.

Dinan? How that helps?

[feuer]

Originally Posted by bavaddict

Thanks Kgolf31.

I thought there might be lazier way lol.

You can make something like this at home:

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Kgolf31

Remove the bolt that holds the crossmember bar and then move the bar out of the way. Adjust, and re install the bolt

this, or install 1M strut bar

[bavaddict]

Thanks Feuer. I think just got this in mail (as a type this - have not gone to mail box to get it yet).

However, I am curious how will this help? Only reason this was ordered was because I could find the usual while Koni turn knob anywhere.

Seems to me that I still will have to pop out the strut bar.

Boy o boy...guess adjustable dampers are really not painless-ly adjustable

Originally Posted by bavaddict

Boy o boy...guess adjustable dampers are really not painless-ly adjustable

They are...Dinan.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by FCobra94

They are...Dinan.

Dinan doesn't make in-house struts/shock. They offer Koni with valving by Dinan specifivation.
Again, how is this helping the OP ?

Originally Posted by feuer

Again, how is this helping the OP ?

Are you that dense? OP has repeatedly asked for a "lazier" and "less painless" way to make damper adjustments; especially in the rear. Dinan's version of the rear Koni "Incorporates external adjustment located at the top of the shock shaft allowing adjustment without removing the shock."

If he wants to stick with a Koni based damper, the above is a perfectly valid option. Whether he want's to pay for it or not at this point is a whole different story.

[bavaddict]

Originally Posted by FCobra94

Are you that dense? OP has repeatedly asked for a "lazier" and "less painless" way to make damper adjustments; especially in the rear. Dinan's version of the rear Koni "Incorporates external adjustment located at the top of the shock shaft allowing adjustment without removing the shock."

If he wants to stick with a Koni based damper, the above is a perfectly valid option. Whether he want's to pay for it or not at this point is a whole different story.

Thanks.

Feurer is correct, I was trying to figure out how to adjustments to the front without removing the two strut bars off the tower. For others it may not be painful, but for me it is so I figured there must be someone else who does it without taking the two bars off.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by bavaddict

Thanks.

Feurer is correct, I was trying to figure out how to adjustments to the front without removing the two strut bars off the tower. For others it may not be painful, but for me it is so I figured there must be someone else who does it without taking the two bars off.

If you want I can mail you mine, just cover the postage. It worked for me.

[tetsuo111]

Some chassis reinforcement struts, like the M3, are attached to the strut mount with a ring shaped brace rather than attaching the bar end. This makes it simple to access the top of the damper.

Probably not what you want to hear since it means a new strut brace. But just sayin', there are options to make life easier....

[bavaddict]

Thanks Tetsuo111. This looks like something I will work one once I have completed my full suspension refresh. Thanks for sharing.

[tetsuo111]

The hassle-factor would be too high having adjustable dampers like the Konis, without an easy method to access the top knob. I use both M3 strut bar and TCK dampers, which are re-valved Koni Sports. This combo is an absolute pleasure to live with - strongly recommend the M3 brace (or similar design) if you go with Koni sports for an easy life. Cheers

[feuer]

Originally Posted by bavaddict

Thanks Tetsuo111. This looks like something I will work one once I have completed my full suspension refresh. Thanks for sharing.

You can also go my route, $150 vs $450 for M3
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1128637