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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > e92, Hardwiring Escort into fusebox.



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      01-21-2009, 02:13 PM   #45
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Low Voltage?

I don't know if anyone is still monitoring this thread, but...

I just used this awesome tutorial to hardwire my radar detector. Thanks to all!

The only problem I'm having now is that I'm getting a Low Voltage on my detector (Beltronics 955) when it powers up. I used fuse spot #7 and have 5 amp fuses in both slots. Any ideas?
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      01-28-2009, 06:54 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bujutsukai View Post
I don't know if anyone is still monitoring this thread, but...

I just used this awesome tutorial to hardwire my radar detector. Thanks to all!

The only problem I'm having now is that I'm getting a Low Voltage on my detector (Beltronics 955) when it powers up. I used fuse spot #7 and have 5 amp fuses in both slots. Any ideas?
Low voltage probably comes from having one of your new wiring connections not be a good connection. Loose or dirty or corrosion will cause a low volt.
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      01-18-2010, 01:11 PM   #47
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I just used this today on my 07 E90...worked like a charm. Grounded to the silver bolt on left...pulled fuse from 28 via fuse chart...tested then hid wires.

Used rubber thin spatula to push wires between lower console and upper console...then removed piece below glove box and that gave me play to put behind panel on lower left leg panel in passenger seat...up and over upper panel..then over to door area. Rolled back black door gasket and put in there all the way up until I needed to cross over to headliner front. Slightly loosened A-Pillar cover to cross this area then used rubber spatula to push between headliner and windshield across top...works great.
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      03-30-2010, 09:10 PM   #48
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thanks OP and everyone else who put in their input in this thread...i was able to install this myself! had to run to Autozone twice because I had to grab additional 5amp mini-fuse because both of slots need to be inserted :P
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      06-12-2010, 11:17 AM   #49
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FWIW ... if you use the same fuse the OP stated on the coupes, it will "seem" like the detector is on all the time. But if you give it a couple of minutes, it shuts right off. As soon as you unlock your doors, it starts up. Seeing as how I personally hate the startup sequence (beep ... blap ... beep ...) i like being able to shut off the car and run in to a gas station or get a bite to eat real quick and it still be fired up when I get back.

I found this out quite by accident and after much frustration ... but like the outcome.
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      08-02-2010, 06:44 PM   #50
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Sweet DIY, will be using this when i get my cord from eBay. Thanks!
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      01-22-2011, 12:00 PM   #51
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Great DIY, much better placement than on others. Although, I have a 2007 328i coupe w/Sport Package, which fuse to use? Conflicting info on this DIY, and searches.
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      01-27-2011, 02:12 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blindrage606 View Post
Great DIY, much better placement than on others. Although, I have a 2007 328i coupe w/Sport Package, which fuse to use? Conflicting info on this DIY, and searches.
It's really very chancy to just use the same fuse number as someone else because BMW does not use the same fuse numbers for the same circuits from car to car.

They changed fuse blocks on my 335i in mid-manufacturing run. My car has a different fuse block than the same exact car made only a few months earlier, and some or all of the fuse numbers are different. I confirmed this when I got my Bentley's Shop Manual, which shows both layouts.

Check out my post about this at:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...14&postcount=8

So try to get your own fuse block layout diagram, and find out which fuse number is used for the Cigarette Lighter, as that's the best choice for which circuit to tap. Below is the Fuse Block Layout symbol for the Cigarette Lighter circuit:
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Last edited by Mech_Man; 01-27-2011 at 02:19 PM..
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      07-12-2011, 10:25 PM   #53
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So if I understand this correctly, there's going to he about an inch of exposed wire when you move from tucking under the gasket to tucking into the headliner, right across the side curtain airbag. Or did I miss a step?
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      07-13-2011, 02:11 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by churchillps View Post
So if I understand this correctly, there's going to he about an inch of exposed wire when you move from tucking under the gasket to tucking into the headliner, right across the side curtain airbag. Or did I miss a step?
The only place the wire is exposed is where you want it to come out to your RD/GPS etc.

The wire comes from within the dashboard, probably from a tap at the fuse box.

It can run up into the cover trim piece that goes up from the dashboard & up to the top edge of the windshield covering the A pillar (over the super thin air bag), and then horizontally just aft of the top edge of the windshield, under a separate horizontal trim piece that goes from the A-pillar to the rear view mirror mounting pad.

Both pieces of trim are held tight up against the windshield but you can push a wire under the edge.

I've done this on both sides, the left for my GPS and the right for my RD.
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      07-13-2011, 08:58 AM   #55
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So what am I doing wrong here -

I ran it up the gasket to the top of the A-pillar like it says, but then the instruction say "run the wire behind the A-pillar and then under the headliner" and I guess I'm just missing how to run it behind the pillar
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      07-13-2011, 10:05 AM   #56
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Also, I have 2 homelink fuses in my 09 e92: 7 and 63. 63 didn't work and 7 works just fine for the 9500ix, but now the homelink garage door opener has no power. Suggestions?
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      07-13-2011, 10:44 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by churchillps View Post
So what am I doing wrong here -

I ran it up the gasket to the top of the A-pillar like it says, but then the instruction say "run the wire behind the A-pillar and then under the headliner" and I guess I'm just missing how to run it behind the pillar
Here's where I'm having the trouble. I just have the cable exposed over this route. How do I go from B to A without exposed cable?

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      07-13-2011, 11:33 AM   #58
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What I did was took a flat head screw driver, wrapped a microfiber towel around it, and then proceeded to push the cable down in between the pillar cover and roof liner. I started at A, making sure to actually get the cable UNDERNEATH the liner as much as possible. The toughest part for me was the curve or turn right before B as mine was a nice tight fit. You can use a smaller pocket screw driver, an old credit card, or something similar to get it down and in there. Once you get to B, be sure to try and get the cable snug in there so it's no exposed.

Good luck, just take your time with it! I've done this on my e92 335i and my buddies e93 M3. Patience will win the job.
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      07-13-2011, 01:25 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Agent11br View Post
What I did was took a flat head screw driver, wrapped a microfiber towel around it, and then proceeded to push the cable down in between the pillar cover and roof liner. I started at A, making sure to actually get the cable UNDERNEATH the liner as much as possible. The toughest part for me was the curve or turn right before B as mine was a nice tight fit. You can use a smaller pocket screw driver, an old credit card, or something similar to get it down and in there. Once you get to B, be sure to try and get the cable snug in there so it's no exposed.

Good luck, just take your time with it! I've done this on my e92 335i and my buddies e93 M3. Patience will win the job.
Got it. Small girlish hands would have made this a lot easier. Thanks for the help.
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      07-13-2011, 02:40 PM   #60
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Or you could just pop off that a"irbag" cover and loosen the bolt under it to loosen the panel...
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      07-13-2011, 04:22 PM   #61
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The way I did it, was that I didn't EVER cross over A to B, I went A across the top of the windshield, after coming up to A from the dashboard. Always tucking the wire between the trim and the windshield. NOT the trim and the door window.

If that is any bit hard, just take off the "A-Column" trim piece. It's very easy: Use something like a fabric covered small standard screwdriver to remove the plastic cover labeled "air bag" by levering it's edges up. It just snaps on. It covers a standard bolt that holds down the trim piece.
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