[Dr Dave]

I've been busy this morning! Here's the work "area"!



Wiring is installed from the blue connector in the shift lever area - but on looking at the plug on the back of the rotary coupler, I have some wiring there - the two yellow wires in caities 2 & 4. I'm certain these will correspond with the unused pins on the top face of the coupler.

I'm going to assume these two wires are in place for factory fit paddles - or do you think I'd be safer snipping them and wiring via my installed cabling as yours Alan?



That central trim is fun to remove! I released the stick gaiter by using your method - gently pulling on the front edge, that was easy.
I then, on the now exposed rear edge of the stick area, gently pulled up on the trim and it started to lift. Gently using a hook trim tool, I released the other clips. This picture shows the locations of the retaining clips - might be useful to others prior to trim removal.



and finally here's a picture of my neatly installed splices into the central wires in that blue plug.



All now that remains is for the wheel to arrive [which it should do in 4 or so days] and to fit it, wire the switches as per Alans diagram. And cross my fingers!

[CraigUK]

Looking good Dave, if you don't mind me asking where did you get the wheel from? I take it that the only additional parts you bought are the wheel and paddles?

[Dr Dave]

*cough* Sweden

I'll let you now how things go later in the week.

[AlanIOW]

Have you tried a continuity tester [Ohm-meter] from the airbag side to where the yellow wires plug in, to make sure they come out at the same place as mine? If they do then the yellow wires cannot connect to anything and can be removed from the plug I would guess.

[Dr Dave]

I'll do that tommorrow Alan - I was *thinking* the car was pre-wired for paddles.

320's might not be whereas 330's might be?? I dunno!

[AlanIOW]

Originally Posted by Dr Dave

I'll do that tommorrow Alan - I was *thinking* the car was pre-wired for paddles.

320's might not be whereas 330's might be?? I dunno!

You could be right, but they may connect through the ECU to the gearbox, which may need to be reprogrammed!! Not sure if I would even try them, you don't know what your shorting out at the other end!! If you disconnect them completely it may be safer. It may be worth trawling through a few forums to see if anyone else has used them, I can't remember seeing anything.

[Dr Dave]

No, that's what I was going to do - too much of a risk otherwise! You're right - too much of a risk - and possibility of coding required.

All the wiring and hard stuff is done. I'll do the headlamp bulbs tonight and take some comparative shots - time to get the tripod out, if I can find it!

[AlanIOW]

I've had two thoughts
1. Someone on here may have a wiring diagram for your car and that may possibly tell where those yellow wires go.
2. Use your continuity tester to see if the yellow wires connect to central two wires from the gear selector, if they do then shorting them to earth with the paddles must change gear - possibly? If there is any resistance it could mean its going through the ECU. One thing to bear in mind though is, could you damage the ecu by using an ohm meter on it, I doubt it but you know how sensitive these things are.

Two thoughts in one day is just too much, I'll have to go and have a lie down!!

[Dr Dave]

I have access to wiring diagrams, but I think there is too much risk using these factory-installed wires - I'll do it the simple way in which you've done. I did think of earthing those yellows at cavities 2 & 4 to earth - the chance are it'd work, but on the other hand it could cause me a load of grief!

If I get a chance, I will have a look at the diagrams early this week.

I would only use a multimeter on the rotary coupler to check continuity of the pins - doing any tests down those wires not knowing where they terminate etc would be a recipe for disaster.

Thanks for your input Alan

[Dr Dave]

There's some useful disassembly/assembly info here http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=244795 for some of the interior trim, steering column shrouds etc.

[F31-340i]

Interesting thread - good efforts so far.

How does the moding work on this - can you just flick a paddle when in Drive and it'll enter Manual mode & change gear, or do you have to flick the gear lever left into DS first (latter seems more plausible, given the simple wiring)?

I tried an 57 plate paddle shift 330d a year ago now, and thought that you could use the paddles without going into DS, or is my memory playing tricks?

Its interesting to see those wires already fitted but not leading to anything on the wheel. You really want to find out what they do if you can. Has anyone had the airbag off a paddle shift car to see if they are the pins used in a "factory" set up? Perhaps these are multiplexed in the existing wiring instead as some of the other buttons seem to be?

[Dr Dave]

I need to check the wiring diagram; but even so, if the wires are present and correct, the car may require coding by a stealer to enable the operation.

The car will be using multiplexed wiring, hence my apprehension.

[kend]

My paddle shift works at any time including when you are in full auto mode ie not DS

[AlanIOW]

My retrofit paddles work exactly as those on the late 6 cylinder cars. That is, you can overide the D settings for a brief period or if you do put it in DS then you are in full manual.

[Dr Dave]

and that's the way in which I expect mine to work when complete - the same as Alan's.

[Dr Dave]

Well I'm really happy to report that the ebay seller qalbeli is a total gem - good communication (almost instant replies via email) and ultra-quick delivery - I ordered and paid at 11am on Friday and it arrived this morning. Puts UK sellers to shame.

Perfect items, very happy! Now to fit it all up

[AlanIOW]

How are your Flappies, Dr Dave

[Dr Dave]

Originally Posted by AlanIOW

How are your Flappies, Dr Dave

Been too busy to do the final wiring - very busy & long hours at work this week, so a little tired each evening.

Will finish off wiring this weekend, all being well!

[Dr Dave]

As soon as the bloody rain stops, I'll be going outside to complete the wiring.

[Dr Dave]

.............and the continual rain has stopped play today!

[Dr Dave]

Well I'm pleased to say all is fully fitted & working 100%

I reckon you could do this job in 4hrs tops, with a few coffee breaks and reference breaks!

The connectors I used to make my 'circuits' came from the smaller connectors on computer power supplies, so most people would have access to some - even if you had to snip some off an old PC at your local tip.

I can't thank Alan enough for his time/patience and those diagrams - you have a PM.

[AlanIOW]

Well done Dave , as I said earlier in the thread , its not difficult, but you have to go through the process methodically. There may well be an easier way, but this way works and works well - IMHO.

I've found I use the paddles a lot more since I have got used to them, initially I tended to leave it in D, then over-ride using the paddles, but now I tend to be in DS and use full manual most of the time except in traffic. Personally I like the way they are set up with up and down shift the same on each paddle, I find I mainly use the right hand one.

I have been pondering whether you could have a separate switch for DS mode instead of having to move the gear selector, ideally this would be using one of the redundant steering wheel switches. Again you would only have to connect one of the outer wires at the gear selector to earth to engage DS/full manual mode - I think?