[dazzapb]

yeah the 275 powering the front speakers. All wired up to using the 5.5m cable to the boot. Also have the L7 tweeters.

[gIzzE]

In that case you want to leave the low pass off and set the hig pass as high as possible.

Then set the input sensitivity to 8v.

[dazzapb]

thanks! I can go up to 250Hz? is that feasible. Once this is done, can I then up the bass on the headunit?

[gIzzE]

You have both sets off speakers, subs and fronts running off the single amp channel, so you want to have all amp crossovers off really, if you set anything on the crossover you will be cutting off your upper or lower frequencies.

[dazzapb]

Originally Posted by gIzzE

You have both sets off speakers, subs and fronts running off the single amp channel, so you want to have all amp crossovers off really, if you set anything on the crossover you will be cutting off your upper or lower frequencies.

cheers, ok I will try and set the hi pass to max. thanks again

[CrimsonRedE93]

SEt your low pass to off and leave the high pass at 10Hz as it was before you added the amp you just have more power now.

If you find the front door speakers distort too much under bass then increase the high pass up from 10Hz to cut the lower frequencies from the door speakers as this is what normally causes the problems.

I find mine fine with the all the adjustments antoclockwise (8V input etc) and switches off.

[MOB]

Right, just fitted my 555 (OEM speakers and subs)

Took 2 hours, probably need to spend another hour in the boot to make it look pretty.

- if you have sat-nav, finding somewhere to cram the cables and box behind the head unit is a complete nightmare - must have taken over half an hour and I nearly threw the lot across the street............

- when I first turned it on, I was underwhelmed..........sound lacked power and IMO worse than the standard setup. But I turned the input dial up a little on the front and it lifted it a lot - now it sounds pretty good - as someone else said, it sounds warmer, just better quality

- I have a problem though - I have what sounds like an interference whine that rises in pitch with the accelerator!!! Bloody annoying, anyone any clues as to why??

Just need to upgrade the front speakers and subs now!

Overall worth doing, definitely DIYable but allow a couple of hours!!

[gIzzE]

Have you not run seperate power cables to the battery??

I know someone else had this problem running the 555 off the head unit power.


You need to tuck the original cable down the side, by the glove box and just bring the new adapter up into the area behind the radio/nav.

[MOB]

Yep I ran live and earth cables to the battery - I'm not convinced the earth cable is 100% ok as I wrapped the bare cable around the negative terminal and tightened the bolt - I'll sort it out properly this weekend.

Do you think upping the input will be ok? I only turned it a couple of mm and it improved the weight of the sound no end!!

[gIzzE]

Hmm, I think the nav unit kicks out 10v, so you shouldn't need to take it higher than 8v, you will also find you speed dependent volume will be a bit extreme too, more like 5 when set to 1.

You should find that you can turn it up louder without it sounding strained at all.

[CrimsonRedE93]

Glad you got it fitted OK MOB, my 555 has no electrical noise, I presume you have connected the 555 power directly to the battery and not connected the head unit end as well?

The input adjustment on the 555 should be set to 8V otherwise you could pick up some noise as the input sensitivity of the 555 would be quite high.

[scampos1984]

Originally Posted by CrimsonRedE93

Glad you got it fitted OK MOB, my 555 has no electrical noise, I presume you have connected the 555 power directly to the battery and not connected the head unit end as well?

The input adjustment on the 555 should be set to 8V otherwise you could pick up some noise as the input sensitivity of the 555 would be quite high.

You connected the amp to the battery or to the head unit?

Thanks

[scampos1984]

Originally Posted by scampos1984

You connected the amp to the battery or to the head unit?

Thanks

I think to the battery, I'ive been reading your audio thread

So great

[CrimsonRedE93]

Originally Posted by scampos1984

I think to the battery, I'ive been reading your audio thread

So great

Beat me too it feel free to keep answering your own questions

[MOB]

Originally Posted by CrimsonRedE93

Glad you got it fitted OK MOB, my 555 has no electrical noise, I presume you have connected the 555 power directly to the battery and not connected the head unit end as well?

The input adjustment on the 555 should be set to 8V otherwise you could pick up some noise as the input sensitivity of the 555 would be quite high.

I've connected the amp directly to the battery + and -

On the wiring from the head unit, there was a yellow cable that I connected, but a red one was left unplugged as there didnt seem to be a corresponding red cable to connect it to!!

[gIzzE]

You don't connect that yellow cable if you are hooking up to the battery direct.

I can't remember what happens at the amp end with that yellow cable but you do now have 12v with no ground running along the harness with your speaker cables which is not ideal. I would guess undoing this would solve your problem.

[CrimsonRedE93]

Originally Posted by MOB

I've connected the amp directly to the battery + and -

On the wiring from the head unit, there was a yellow cable that I connected, but a red one was left unplugged as there didnt seem to be a corresponding red cable to connect it to!!

From memory at the head unit there is a yellow and black pair in a plastic 2 way connector that is the power feed to the amp (I did not connect either of these) and a red wire which was a 1/4 insulated spade terminal (I did not connect this either).

At the amp end the yellow and black are not connected as the power comes straight from the battery, not sure what the red was for but I tested teh system before I fitted everything back so I knew I didnt need it.

As gizze says, not good practice leaving that yellow wire in the loom with 12V on it, the cable run is 5.5M so the 12V will capacitively and electrically couple into the audio circuitry and possibly cause noise, it may not be the answer but still not good.

[kend]

If the above suggestions do not remove the noise, try and find a seperate earth point in the boot, I used an earth point located adjacent the n/s rear wheel arch.

[MOB]

Cheers for the suggestions guy. I'll have a look tonight

To unplug the yellow cable, I'm going to have to remove the bloody head unit again..................

[gIzzE]

This time drag the oem connector back to the other side of the plastic cageand tuck it down there, and then just bring the blaupunkt extension cable through to give yourself more room.
It may be easier to spend 5 minutes taking the plastic cage out and positioning the wires where you want them, will make taking it out in future much easier.

[MOB]

Right, I disconnected the yellow and black wire, and it still works lol, but I still have the interference.

I also put proper terminals on the battery connections to make sure it was ok.

Also, I noticed that the amp is very hot to touch - is that normal?

Anyone got any more ideas?;

- perhaps earth it to the chassis instead of the battery?
- I routed the extension cable through the centre of the car - is there anything down there than might cause interference?


Cheers

[gIzzE]

Not sure??

You are the only one that has routed it down the centre that I know of so it could well be?

I will check my amp today, but as it is digital I'm sure it runs pretty cool.