[MartinWake]

Hey guys some of you may know I own a 2011 335i and the oil level is close to minimum so I will do an oil change but I want to see which oil you guys recommend last time the oil was change was about 2 weeks ago I have been driving the car a lot and pretty hard tbh plus since this engine was seized before and had the rod bearings changed that might eat up more.. also jb4 anyways the mechanic last time he changed it used 10w-40 I personally would use 5w-30, I live in Miami so its hot here most of the year so which oil would you guys recommend I plan on changing it tomorrow.

(I think I put more then 1000 miles on it in that time)

[Pladi]

I put new rods that could be over or under spec. Safe oil is 5w-30

[N54sDUSTxi]

Originally Posted by MartinWake

Hey guys some of you may know I own a 2011 335i and the oil level is close to minimum so I will do an oil change but I want to see which oil you guys recommend last time the oil was change was about 2 weeks ago I have been driving the car a lot and pretty hard tbh plus since this engine was seized before and had the rod bearings changed that might eat up more.. also jb4 anyways the mechanic last time he changed it used 10w-40 I personally would use 5w-30, I live in Miami so its hot here most of the year so which oil would you guys recommend I plan on changing it tomorrow.

(I think I put more then 1000 miles on it in that time)

Liqui Moly 5-30 Special Tec .. maintains its viscosity at higher temp ..anti friction layer will help a little too.

[MartinWake]

Originally Posted by N54sDUSTxi

Liqui Moly 5-30 Special Tec .. maintains its viscosity at higher temp ..anti friction layer will help a little too.

Originally Posted by Pladi

I put new rods that could be over or under spec. Safe oil is 5w-30

Yep I was thinking of 5w-30 as well thanks guys!

[MartinWake]

Originally Posted by Pladi

I put new rods that could be over or under spec. Safe oil is 5w-30

Originally Posted by N54sDUSTxi

Liqui Moly 5-30 Special Tec .. maintains its viscosity at higher temp ..anti friction layer will help a little too.

What do you guys think of my engine sound?

Video: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Qwy...ew?usp=sharing

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by MartinWake

What do you guys think of my engine sound?

Video: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Qwy...ew?usp=sharing

It sounds kind of normal. Are you referencing the underlying "whomp whomp whomp" noise?

You had bearing failure after OFHG change on this car, right? You replaced the rod bearing with KING bearings? Do a compression test to see if ring wear and blow-by is the oil consumption issue. Might be scored cylinder walls from leftover bearing debris?

[MartinWake]

Originally Posted by bbnks2

It sounds kind of normal. Are you referencing the underlying "whomp whomp whomp" noise?

You had bearing failure after OFHG change on this car, right? You replaced the rod bearing with KING bearings? Do a compression test to see if ring wear and blow-by is the oil consumption issue. Might be scored cylinder walls from leftover bearing debris?

yeah but rip now I hear rod knock time for an engine swap :/

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by MartinWake

yeah but rip now I hear rod knock time for an engine swap :/

Sounds like it was unrelated to the original OFHG issue then, right? This is why engine need to be send out to machine shops when they spin bearings... You could've had a bent rod, ovaled rod bore, bent crank, or distorted block which caused the initial failure and now this one, right? Oil consumption would usually mean bent rod.

Was plastiguage used to check clearances when you threw in the new bearings? I remember replying to your other thread I just don't remember the backstory. Did all bearings get destroyed the firs time or just 1 rod? curious to see what failed this time... all rods bearings or just 1?

[MartinWake]

Originally Posted by bbnks2

Sounds like it was unrelated to the original OFHG issue then, right? This is why engine need to be send out to machine shops when they spin bearings... You could've had a bent rod, ovaled rod bore, bent crank, or distorted block which caused the initial failure and now this one, right? Oil consumption would usually mean bent rod.

Was plastiguage used to check clearances when you threw in the new bearings? I remember replying to your other thread I just don't remember the backstory. Did all bearings get destroyed the firs time or just 1 rod? curious to see what failed this time... all rods bearings or just 1?

well what happened was I changed the OFHG and I am guessing a air packet stayed in and caused my engine to seize I took it to my dads mechanic he showed me the bearings heated up and stuck so he removed them I bought king bearing he put them on he told me use it but dont push it engine swap when you can so I kept using it now it has rod knock just as expected so now I will just engine swap and part out this engine since it only has 60k miles