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Just hit 85k miles. Help me with my checklist please.
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06-14-2012, 06:50 PM | #1 |
Roll Tide
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Just hit 85k miles. Help me with my checklist please.
Last month I replaced my front pads/rotors and did a full brake fluid flush. Also did spark plugs and had to get a new battery.
Just now I ordered front Meyle HD upper control arms and sway bar links for front and rear. Trying to figure out which sway bar bushings to get and if it's even feasible to replace them. Recently had my auto trans fluid changed, oil changed, and intake valves walnut blasted. Also topped off with blinker fluid. I've found in research that I should probably start thinking about changing my serpentine belt and the idler pulley. It's gotten a bit loud and "uneven" (if that makes sense) at idle when cold. What else should I put on the list? I want to keep my car running in top shape for as long as possible. |
06-14-2012, 08:55 PM | #3 | |
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06-14-2012, 10:19 PM | #4 | |
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If no codes are being thrown use Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner (concentrate). It solves rpm fluctuating upon cold start-up. Also, for most BMW problems start off by scanning your car with the Peake Research Tool. It contains the actual BMW codes. If you want to register a newly installed battery for free (just buy a $10 cable) and google/download BMWLogger
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06-14-2012, 11:28 PM | #5 | ||
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Deteriorating parts affect the quality of the vehicle long before they break. |
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06-15-2012, 11:19 PM | #6 |
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X2 on what Killerfish2012 mentioned. Between 60-80K it is wise to have coolant, water pump, thermostat, and water hoses changed out.
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Name: Blanca | 07 E92 | AW-Blk | ZSP | Alcon BBK | M3 Bits | VM RR Links | Koni | UUC Sways | V5 | Dinan CAI | ETS IC | Fge DV | ER CP | Cyba | Raden. Exh | Mod Step | Trunk Drawer | Perf LED Wheel | Illum Dr Sills | IS Shifter | Parrot | Philps D1S | 6000k fog | MTECH RR | CSL Trunk | Aero | Roof Spoiler | PSS on BBS RS-GT 19s
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06-16-2012, 09:19 AM | #8 |
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I'm doing my serp. belt, idler pully, valve cover gasket, LPFP + LPFP regulator next week. If the LPFP, and or regulator go out on you, while the car is running, it can destroy your engine. The last two items, I forgot to add to my last post.
chriztofor, you need to realize that 335I's will see much more maintenance on critical parts because of the increased thermal output of the vehicle. We see 230-260F oil temps our whole life, and exhaust temps reach 1,500F!! It's a whole different, rubber/plastic melting ball game.
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06-16-2012, 11:39 AM | #9 | |
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06-16-2012, 02:35 PM | #10 | |
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Not trying to hijack thread, but as a new owner, I swear I was shocked at the heat coming from the engine of my 335 in my garage; it is like a bloody oven compared to my E36M3... This lump runs H O T. |
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