[yaskonb]

I had the same thing happen of my 2006 325i. INPA resets would only help for about two weeks and then the problem would come back. Ended up getting a new valve body and it's been 4 months with no problems so far. Valve body is an expensive job, so I would only do it if nothing else works and you can't live with the jolt. After mine was fixed I did hear that setting the idle values ~100 rpm higher can fix the problem but I never got the chance to try this.

[RyanBMW]

I have an 08 328i w/ 55K miles and it does it sometime too, it scares the shit out of me the first time because l almost rear ended the car in front of me. Mine does it very randomly so l do not know when to expect, very annoying and scary. I have searched on this forum and people said it's a common problem with the N52 tranny. Some said they feel like they got rear ended when that happens. I have not flushed my tranny fluid yet..!!

I hope that helps..You're not the only bro!! Bimmer

Planning to keep my Bimmer another year and then getting the Lexus GS-F, not planning to deal with all the Bimmer headaches!

BMW=nice car, drives great, but too many problems!! I guess the myth is true!

[testdriver]

Originally Posted by nirgutman

Hi Testdriver,

I've been searching every website to see if anyone else had this problem. My 328i sport does the same exact thing ! It kicks/jumps right as i slow down to the 10mph mark. Every time, I took it to the dealer and drove with a mechanic. It stopped doing it right then and there. As soon as I left the lot it returned and has gotten really bad, sometimes the whole car shakes.

Have you figured out what it is yet? It's driving me crazy.

Not yet..... but I believe it has something to do with software.

[testdriver]

Originally Posted by evssss1

Same symptom in my 05 325i. Try resetting the adaptation in INPA which will help. But it is just a matter of time this weird jump is coming back and then another reset will help for a period.

Let me know if changing ATF will oil pan helps.....

Although I believe it has to do with software, one shop insist I should change the ATF with oil pan......... job completed and the Problem is same like yesterday.

I can 90% sure it has something to do with software.

[testdriver]

Originally Posted by yaskonb

I had the same thing happen of my 2006 325i. INPA resets would only help for about two weeks and then the problem would come back. Ended up getting a new valve body and it's been 4 months with no problems so far. Valve body is an expensive job, so I would only do it if nothing else works and you can't live with the jolt. After mine was fixed I did hear that setting the idle values ~100 rpm higher can fix the problem but I never got the chance to try this.

INPA reset? I guess my shop reset my ecu many times but I didn't feel a thing different.

As for the Valve Body change..... can you tell me more about that.

Thank you.

[Anthonyv335is]

mine just started with this to i was also thinking transmission mounts worn ? but seems more on software side

[yaskonb]

Originally Posted by testdriver

INPA reset? I guess my shop reset my ecu many times but I didn't feel a thing different.

As for the Valve Body change..... can you tell me more about that.

Thank you.

As far as I understand, the valve body is what controls the transmission. Some parts of it are made of plastic so they wear out over time. This leads to rougher shifts, such as the rough downshift from 2-1. I already had an aftermarket warranty on my car(through EasyCare) and luckily they paid for the new valve body because it was like a $3000 job. Hope this helps

[kosherthunder]

Turns out it was the Heat Exchange that was leaking tfluid which caused the jerky shifting :P

[testdriver]

Originally Posted by nirgutman

Turns out it was the Heat Exchange that was leaking tfluid which caused the jerky shifting :P

You mean leaking tranny fluid? That may not be my case as I don't see any drops of fluids on my garage floor.

Anyway, I'm glad you solve the problem on yours.