[Septro]

http://www.maxjaxusa.com/



Looks pretty good as a garage lift - thoughts?

[ENINTY]

I didn't see the price advertized, but a commerical lift that will lift 10,000 pounds and 6 feet is about $4,500 installed. Check Northern tools, or a local commerical auto tool supplier. The difference between being able to walk under a car and stand there versus stitting on a creeper is a big deal. I'd hate to see if you dropped one of those 300 lb columns. I doubt the hydraulic lines are actully leak free. Also. I wonder how they keep the columns lifting evenly. Commerical lifts have equalizing cables attached to the lifting cylinders.

I have a commerical lift in my garage and it is the best tool I've ever bought. Go with a real lift.

[ToadHollow]

I have a neighbor of mine who modifies the Dodge Vipers and has 2 similar lifts installed in his home garage/shop. He swears by them ........

[Septro]

The decent part about these is that the lift columns are removable since the anchors are part of the concrete floor. This way you still get significant use of your garage and can bring out the lift when you need it.

But Eninty's feedback sounds legit.

[ENINTY]

A permanent two-post lift really isn't in the way all that much. Get an asymmetrical style (where it lets the doors open wider) and its not much of a hassle. I also use mine as sawhorses for wood work, so having the height adjustability is great.

My point with the Max Jax is would you really want to pull out two 300 lb columns, bolt them to the floor, setup the liftarms, all to do a 20 minute oil change, or a 2-hour brake job? I'd bet it takes at least 45 minutes to get the thing set up and bled so that it is lifting properly. Also, commercial lifts come with a wheel sighting plate so that you properly place the car's center of mass on the lift so that there is no stress on the anchor bolts. With this lift, I didn't see any alignment plate, I can see someone not lifting a car properly and pulling the anchors out of the floor. While sitting down on a stool and not being able to get out of the way if it falls - no thanks.

My personal preference is I'd rather lift a 3,800 lb. car on a 10,000 lb. capacity lift than on a 6,000 lb. capacity lift.

[ZRsaad]

Any other reviews on what types of Lifts to get and how much install is in a regular built garage in a home?.... Do you have to get it redone for a 2 post lift?? I prefer two posts b/c i can do brakes, exhaust, suspension work and oil changes easier then a 4 post with a bridge.... thoughtS?

[Craig@SupremePower]

DAMN i wish i had a garage so i could get that...

[FCP Euro]

+1, When I buy a house, it will get a lift in it.

[ENINTY]

Originally Posted by ZRsaad

Any other reviews on what types of Lifts to get and how much install is in a regular built garage in a home?.... Do you have to get it redone for a 2 post lift?? I prefer two posts b/c i can do brakes, exhaust, suspension work and oil changes easier then a 4 post with a bridge.... thoughtS?

Someone recently asked about lifts in the non-BMW section. I replied with this:

I have a Rotary Lift model SPOA10. It's their standard 10,000 pound lift with asymmetrical columns. I paid $3,500 installed in my garage in 2004. I did a lot of research on lifts before I purchased mine.

When considering a lift, buy one made in the USA from a reputable manufacturer Bend-Pak, Rotary, etc. because you'll be able to get replacement parts for it and service. Look in your area for a commercial automotive tools supplier because he'll most likely carry lifts, install them, and service them. You can find cheap Asian lifts on the net, but most likely they are not certified by the American Lift Institute and probably will not be supported by a local business. You want a certified lift; both Bend Pak and Rotary are certified. You are taking your life in your own hands standing under a car 6 feet off the ground, so making sure it's safe is the number 1 priority. Get an asymmetrical lift because it lets you open the doors wider. European lifts are also certified by are expensive.

Most lifts require a 12 foot ceiling (Rotary may have one that works in a 9 foot ceiling) and a minimum of 4 inches of concrete floor. When they install it, they will mark off the floor set the columns and then drill the floor and install the anchor bolts. You’ll need a 220V -30A circuit.

Lastly, make sure the lift will fit your E9X. The E9X chassis is wide and low and some lifts may not reach the lifting pads. My Rotary didn’t fit my E90 (I bought it before the E90 came out), but I retrofitted it with updated lifting arms from a later model, so now it does. You need to pay attention with the minimum lifting pad height to make sure it fits under the car. Also make sure it comes with a locating plate which is used to properly align your car with the lift (via the front left wheel) to get it centered.

Get one, it will be the best tool you ever buy. If you do your own work you’ll pay it back in no time.

[Flea7]

Max Jax....I'm about to throw down on one!...anymore input on this???

[jimk]

The only thing I don't like about the Max Jax, is that it doesn't have a cross bar. The anchors and bolts literally carry all the vehicle weight. That's kinda scary...

BTW, best price I've found including shipping, is at Costco:

http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product...S&Sp=C&topnav=

[stratplaya06]

Just bought a maxjax. The concrete anchors it comes with are literally the worst things I've ever had to deal with. I even went as far as hiring a Dannmar recommended installer to come out, and even he agreed that the anchors were really bad. I am in the process of finding some anchors that are a little more aggressive, and that use an epoxy bond in addition to a physical bond. The strength should easily exceed the anchors supplied with the lift (which are EACH rated to hold up more than the weight the lift can hold), and I will feel much more comfortable knowing that there is the epoxy there too. From the assembly process, everything feels extremely sturdy and once I get some anchors that are made better I will definitely be putting up a nice review on the board.

I am excited to get the lift all set up, and I am going to leave one of the sides up all the time (doesn't interfere with door opening etc.) so my setup time will be cut in half.

[Flea7]

Originally Posted by jimk

The only thing I don't like about the Max Jax, is that it doesn't have a cross bar. The anchors and bolts literally carry all the vehicle weight. That's kinda scary...

BTW, best price I've found including shipping, is at Costco:

http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product...S&Sp=C&topnav=

Ordered one yesterday from Northern Tools.
$1,999.00 / free shipping / no tax and $100 Northern Tools gift certificate.

...also 4% off by going through ebates.com
I didn't go with costco because i would have to pay nearly 10% tax.

Originally Posted by stratplaya06

Just bought a maxjax. The concrete anchors it comes with are literally the worst things I've ever had to deal with. I even went as far as hiring a Dannmar recommended installer to come out, and even he agreed that the anchors were really bad. I am in the process of finding some anchors that are a little more aggressive, and that use an epoxy bond in addition to a physical bond. The strength should easily exceed the anchors supplied with the lift (which are EACH rated to hold up more than the weight the lift can hold), and I will feel much more comfortable knowing that there is the epoxy there too. From the assembly process, everything feels extremely sturdy and once I get some anchors that are made better I will definitely be putting up a nice review on the board.

I am excited to get the lift all set up, and I am going to leave one of the sides up all the time (doesn't interfere with door opening etc.) so my setup time will be cut in half.

I am definately going to use epoxy when installing the anchors.