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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N57 / M57 Turbo Diesel Discussions - 335d > Only making 12 psi boost after a bunch of repairs mods



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      11-26-2017, 10:30 PM   #1
alex sol
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Only making 12 psi boost after a bunch of repairs mods

Over the summer I got a stage 2 tune from jr auto. My nox error was about to shut down the car with 300km count down. Something about wrong def error code and other fake error codes. I figures the urea pump nozzle was clogged so upper nox and lower downstream nox sensor were reading the same and therefore error code which makes me wonder how many good nox sensors were swapped out at 700 a piece not including labor ?

Anyway with the egr no longer going into the intake I thought it was good time to clean carbon intake. I followed the many cbu threads and very thankful for all the good info.

Struggled with exhaust smell coming thru the cabin when bypass the egr cooler. Fixed but still getting some minor fumes.

Went to bypass the crank case vent and the found the connecting pipe crumbled and leaking oil all down the turbo red pipe.

I decided to reconnect using a silicon 90 deg 1inch diameter elbow that I bought off eBay which was 3 x3 inches long. I had to cut to size.

I also replaced four seals - 2 in the turbo pipe and 2 in the inter cooler. This was a bit tricky. I found dropping the intercooler and cleaning then cutting off the metal bands and assembling the pipes on the intercooler with new clamps the only way. Then reconnect to the turbo on one side and throttle body on the intercooler side to be the easiest and only way to reassemble.

After all this I got the 4350 turbo under boost fault code. I found a loose clamp and reassembled cleared all the codes After an hour of driving no fault codes

Now only able to get 12 psi max boost. I am thinking my problem could be weak or faulty pressure converter and possible vacuum leak.

Question. When ordering new silicone lines 5mm inside diameter. How many feet do u recommend to buy and from where? Cheap and cheerful is where I usually shop.

With the jr tune I don't notice any dpf regens so could it be clogged?

Or is it time to gut the scr?

Also I may start a new thread but would like to get a trailer hitch. Since I'm going to mess with the exhaust system can I get the 335 gas hitch unit? My def no longer operable so that def tank can be removed. Could this be the reason why I cannot use regular e90 hitch for around 200?

A bit of a long winded start to this thread and so has been my journey with this 335d that I've only owned for 8 months.

Bought with 145 km and now have just over 160k km.
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      11-26-2017, 10:35 PM   #2
alex sol
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I also installed the swirl flap deletes. Note to those doing this. I had to reconnect the swirl flap electrical connection to get the car to start.

Also egr electrical connection has to be disconnected or the car will go into serious limp mode. Zero turbo boost. And feels like someone left a sock in the intake.

Nox sensors also both disconnected

All part of the stage two tune
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      11-27-2017, 08:03 AM   #3
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Was this a JR stg 2 with emissions in tact or stg 2 "Race"? Vacuum hose should be 3.5mm and can be purchased from Matt Whitebread, AArodriguez or Amazon.
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      11-28-2017, 07:56 AM   #4
alex sol
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it was a JR stage 2, no hardware delete with no EGR, no DEF, no NOX so would be considered 'race' or off road use only
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      11-28-2017, 09:52 PM   #5
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I don’t get it. Did the tune delete the DPF? You are saying that tune did code the EGR and Urea, but not DPF. It’s not impossible, but there is no off the shelf JR tune like that. Please confirm, your original post is confusing.
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      11-30-2017, 03:48 PM   #6
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JR has a tune that keeps the DPF and deletes the rest. But if you don't have that tune, your DPF could've stopped regens and clogged up.

I went with the race tune and had maybe about a week to finish my exhaust delete due to all the back pressure. The DPF won't last long without regens.

As Yozh says, more clarity would help.
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      11-30-2017, 04:33 PM   #7
alex sol
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I had JR tune out the def going into the scr and no longer have egr going into the intake but i think the dpf still works with regens.

i wanted to keep the dpf working so that it doesn't clog up the scr. also so that the dpf does not also clog up.

i was advised to watch for the pressure differential but not sure how to monitor this..?
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      12-01-2017, 05:02 AM   #8
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http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1118429
Custom pid for torque android app gives you pressure differential.
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      12-01-2017, 07:20 AM   #9
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knowing what you have for a tune and thinking are two different things...

from what you said about your dpf/scr situation it sounds like you are setup for disaster.

if I am not mistaken if you turn off DEF you need to remove the SCR or it will clog.... You need to know if the regens are turned on or not if they are off your dpf is clogged..
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      12-01-2017, 10:26 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335stoner View Post
knowing what you have for a tune and thinking are two different things...

from what you said about your dpf/scr situation it sounds like you are setup for disaster.

if I am not mistaken if you turn off DEF you need to remove the SCR or it will clog.... You need to know if the regens are turned on or not if they are off your dpf is clogged..
I dont think the SCR will clog, if the DPF is still functioning...but that's a big "if" and as you mentioned, best to confirm with JR that the DPF is functional.

I would imagine a cracked DPF would allow the SCR filter to soot up and clog.

OP, did you have any preexisting mechanical issues, before deciding to tune?
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      12-01-2017, 12:22 PM   #11
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I running thoughts in my head.... if the DPF is turned OFF you should be able to unplug the sensors except one probe closest to the turbo..

if its off nothing should happen because they are no in use and that would mean your DPF is clogged..... if it is still on it should put your car into limp mode when you start it and drive or when you start it....

I haven't heard of anyone with cracked DPF's here?? I know it was a common failure on the TDI's. I can agree a cracked DPF would clog the SCR for sure..
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      12-08-2017, 05:39 PM   #12
alex sol
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thanks for the replies. my dpf is in fact working and can tell when the exhaust gas temps jump to double the normal.. 300 deg to 600 deg.

no more def going to scr but understand that as long as the dpf is cleaning the soot, i can keep the scr.

i may mess around with the exhaust so that i can install a standard tow bar from u haul for $199 and... maybe fit a spare tire?? i found it most annoying to have to get towed home due to a flat tire (my snow tires not run flats) when i could have fixed the problem in 15 min. vs 3 hours!! plus blow away my afternoon..

i dug into the intake and did some minor adjustments. tightened up some clamps. i have 3 clamps on my intercooler charge pipe as i had cut off 3 oe clamps. also checked the turbo charge pipe which may have had vacuum leak... and plugged the crank case vent intake (near the turbo under the air filter)... and.. make full boost again. no engine codes - previously i had a underboost charge pipe situation.

i did find some vacuum lines that look a little dry and crusty and will replace all in the spring.. 3.5mm inside diameter i think

with the cold air, clean intake, no swirl flaps, fresh turbo and intercooler seals, crank case vent bypass, jr tune... it's running very well - wish it came in a 3 pedal six speed wagon... would make for a quick family hauler and grocery getter
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      12-12-2017, 10:30 AM   #13
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I'll leave the emissions part of discussion alone as many others have you corralled. The $199 for uhaul hitch must be same for 335i versus 335d, no? The only real difference that I know of is the D's fore to aft bar dips down and then dips back up to clear the urea tanks. I relaize you aren't going to have those in there. I mention because the dip in the bar gives you a little more clearance of the bar to compact spare tire. I will go dig up a picture to show you what i mean. What are you going to do about exhaust clearing the spare tire. Another guy attempted to use the P&L exhaust but it didn't have proper spread to clear. I had custom exhaust built around the spare. Trying to say that i mounted the spare and then they custom mandrel bent to clear it. I used circuit werks kit for N54 gasser off ebay. Front end modification well covered in other threads. See my thread for the back end custom work. They never would make a sticky for this work of mine.
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      12-13-2017, 08:24 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbdm4k View Post
JR has a tune that keeps the DPF and deletes the rest. But if you don't have that tune, your DPF could've stopped regens and clogged up.

I went with the race tune and had maybe about a week to finish my exhaust delete due to all the back pressure. The DPF won't last long without regens.

As Yozh says, more clarity would help.
Does it trick OBD output to show all clear, or light up warning lights like a Christmas tree?

If it does, is it enough to pass visual + readings only inspections like CA Smog (no tailpipe measurements for diesel here)???
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      12-13-2017, 08:34 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alex sol View Post
maybe fit a spare tire?? i found it most annoying to have to get towed home due to a flat tire (my snow tires not run flats) when i could have fixed the problem in 15 min. vs 3 hours!! plus blow away my afternoon..
Just FYI, many non-RFT-rated low profile tires can be limped short distances at low speeds without holding any pressure whatsoever. Those short sidewalls are stiff and dont generally collapse when not holding air.

I've had punctures at the entrance to an airport terminal and in Compton at 3am (well on the interstate, but Compton was the closest exit), both places you can't really stick around and wait at... first case, limped to a gas station about a mile and towed from there, second case limped to a gas station tried and failed to seal puncture with tire goop & limped like 5 mi at ~20mph to park by the entrance of a closed tire shop in a somewhat less intimidating neighborhood.

Tires were non-RFT and held no air both times. First one was some China crap that came with the car, second one was probably a Pirelli cant remember
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