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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Tracking, Autocrossing, Dragstrip, Driving Techniques > How much longer on these pads?



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      01-25-2009, 08:22 PM   #67
Bubbles
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3to335 View Post
Here's a little feedback from todays install.

I'm no novice when it comes to working on cars...far from it. As far as simple work is concerned, I've done many MANY brake pad swaps including my old E46 M3 and 325i. This car was a pain in my ass.

The front bolts were so tight I had to use a breaker bar and a PIPE to get them free. The drivers front took nearly an hour alone!!! Also, just for anyone who is buying these pads, it helps to bend the metal tabs with some pliers because they refused to fit into to caliiper piston. (small issue).

My initial response to these pads is just so-so. I did the proper bedding proceedure and they dont "appear" to have any more bite than the stock pads. It could be in my head, I dont know for certain until I hit the track Dust is certainly reduced so thats good for around town. Also, no squeel is evident.

On a side note; Since day one I never really noticed how bad the initlal bite was on my stock pads until I started driving our 135. You just touch the pedal and it begins to break. My 335 seems to take quite a bit more squishy pedal travel before bites. Is this typical? Honestly I've never driven any other 335....just my wifes 1. The new pads exhibit the same thing.

Think its just a matter of bleeding it?
haha, it took me a while with my first pad swap. I had to swap back to stock and it took about an hour.

I used a breaker bar all around and good point about the bending the metal tabs, I had to do the same thing for two.

You won't notice much of a difference from the stock pads until you get some heat into the pads, then you will see these pads are very different from stock.
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      01-25-2009, 08:29 PM   #68
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Cool, good to hear

How about my comment about initial pedal feeling?
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      01-25-2009, 09:16 PM   #69
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Quote:
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Cool, good to hear

How about my comment about initial pedal feeling?
Did you bleed the brakes? Bleeder may help with the feel. I've bled my brakes at least 20 times @30k (before and after track days). I can always pull air bubbles out of the system.
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      01-26-2009, 08:34 AM   #70
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I've yet to bleed them
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      01-26-2009, 09:55 AM   #71
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Quote:
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I've yet to bleed them
Extra work for you but I am lazy. I figure I'll bleed 'em while the wheels are already off.
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      01-26-2009, 10:00 AM   #72
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Shouldn't be taking bolts off to replace pads. Pop the two dust caps off and use a hex wrench. It's like 30lb-ft MAX. If you're taking the big 18? mm bolt off, you're doing too much work.
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      01-26-2009, 02:09 PM   #73
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Seriously? Why was the diy saying to do it the other way?
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      01-26-2009, 04:44 PM   #74
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Because a DIY isn't always the fastest way.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...en#post2049260
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      01-26-2009, 04:47 PM   #75
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I smacked myself in the head when you wrote that earlier. I actually bought that 7mm allen socket for the other cars and completely forgot about doing it that way on this one. JEEZE!
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      01-27-2009, 08:17 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3to335 View Post
I smacked myself in the head when you wrote that earlier. I actually bought that 7mm allen socket for the other cars and completely forgot about doing it that way on this one. JEEZE!

I prefer taking off the entire caliper for cleaning purposes.
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      01-27-2009, 11:55 AM   #77
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Quote:
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I prefer taking off the entire caliper for cleaning purposes.
clean what? The only part you really need to make sure is clean is the sliding pin...which is exactly what you take out when you use the hex bolt.

Getting brake cleaner too close to the piston boots is a recipe for torn boots. rubber + brake cleaner = disaster.
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      01-27-2009, 05:30 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leftcoastman View Post
piston boots is a recipe for torn boots. rubber + brake cleaner = disaster.
Are you referring to that melted piece of rubber covering the piston.
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      01-27-2009, 06:58 PM   #79
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Quote:
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Are you referring to that melted piece of rubber covering the piston.
Yup and now that the piston boot cover is melted....if you introduce brake cleaner ---- it goes right to the piston o-ring.

When that rubber deteriorates, your brakes go kaput, hopefully not at an inopportune time.
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      01-27-2009, 07:35 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leftcoastman View Post
Yup and now that the piston boot cover is melted....if you introduce brake cleaner ---- it goes right to the piston o-ring.

When that rubber deteriorates, your brakes go kaput, hopefully not at an inopportune time.
I know, the brakes are getting rebuilt/replaced very soon.
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      01-27-2009, 07:37 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leftcoastman View Post
Yup and now that the piston boot cover is melted....if you introduce brake cleaner ---- it goes right to the piston o-ring.

When that rubber deteriorates, your brakes go kaput, hopefully not at an inopportune time.
Wouldn't careful use of non-chlorinated brake cleaner mitigate this?
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      01-27-2009, 08:35 PM   #82
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Hmm, considering the product data sheets for non-chlorinated brake cleaners tell you to protect rubber parts from overspray....I wouldn't take the chance.

http://www.valvoline.com/products/No...%20Cleaner.pdf
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      02-17-2009, 10:24 AM   #83
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2006 325i  [9.34]
they didn't replace mine under maintenance warranty cause they said it still had some left, then after my maintenance warranty passed a few hundred miles then they said it is time to replace, was like WTF!?!?!?!
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