[Asclepius]

Hey guys€, Im about to purchase a set of KW V2's and a set of camber plates and though that the M3 sways would be a perfect compliment to the suspension. Would you recommend any other M3 parts for someone who is pretty much gonna use it for spirited street driving and very very rare track use if any at all?

[Asclepius]

Hey guys, Im about to purchase a set of KW V2's and a set of camber plates and though that the M3 sways would be a perfect compliment to the suspension. Would you recommend any other M3 parts for someone who is pretty much gonna use it for spirited street driving and very very rare track use if any at all?

[Frosty]

bump

..I am slowly wanting to become a mechanic... I just read all 267 postes in this thread..

Orb etc... you are all amazing, I feel more educated every day reading this site

~Frost

[tlrid3r]

great info

[Javi335]

After read this and others threads, to me one thing is clear, before do any mod first go for the bushes parts, then the shocks or anything you want to do.

[ganastas]

This is great info for sure thanks alot. I just came from my BMW dealer in Toronto. I inquired about this upgrade. My parts guy showed me the info, on a 07 335 and 07 m3 the front sway bar is the same diameter as each other, I think 22mm? But the same however. The bushings are different, cost about 60 bucks for all. I order it plus the tension bar too. The rear bar is different size totally.

[jah29]

Originally Posted by ganastas

My parts guy showed me the info, on a 07 335 and 07 m3 the front sway bar is the same diameter as each other, I think 22mm? But the same however.

Search the site. They are not the same. Same bushing size, but the 335 bar narrows for a few inches in the middle and is therefore less stiff.

[Blue Liquid]

So after installing the Performance Suspension, I'm feeling like float and 'tightness' is still somewhat of an issue. The '11 M3 has none of this. My 350Z with Nismo S-Tune suspension resulted in less float than my current setup. When travelling on the highway, for example, as the roads dips down and comes back up, my car is still too floaty, and I feel like I'm driving a conversion van or something (ok, so I'm exaggerating a little, but you know what I mean). Unless I'm mistaken, all these other M3 bits won't address that as much as they do initial turn-in and body roll. Am I way off base here? Is the Performance Suspension simply too compliant compared to the M3's shocks and springs? Do we have spring rates we can compare?

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by Blue Liquid

So after installing the Performance Suspension, I'm feeling like float and 'tightness' is still somewhat of an issue. The '11 M3 has none of this. My 350Z with Nismo S-Tune suspension resulted in less float than my current setup. When travelling on the highway, for example, as the roads dips down and comes back up, my car is still too floaty, and I feel like I'm driving a conversion van or something (ok, so I'm exaggerating a little, but you know what I mean). Unless I'm mistaken, all these other M3 bits won't address that as much as they do initial turn-in and body roll. Am I way off base here? Is the Performance Suspension simply too compliant compared to the M3's shocks and springs? Do we have spring rates we can compare?

You may want to use dampers with more aggressive valving such as Koni Sport Yellows.

[Fraggy]

Originally Posted by Blue Liquid

So after installing the Performance Suspension, I'm feeling like float and 'tightness' is still somewhat of an issue. The '11 M3 has none of this. My 350Z with Nismo S-Tune suspension resulted in less float than my current setup. When travelling on the highway, for example, as the roads dips down and comes back up, my car is still too floaty, and I feel like I'm driving a conversion van or something (ok, so I'm exaggerating a little, but you know what I mean). Unless I'm mistaken, all these other M3 bits won't address that as much as they do initial turn-in and body roll. Am I way off base here? Is the Performance Suspension simply too compliant compared to the M3's shocks and springs? Do we have spring rates we can compare?

Its the rear that is still an issue with the float. I noticed that as well over large dips at freeway speeds. When I had C/O, this was not an issue. Oh well, its generally ok with me, I have a two and half year old son and 81 year old mom that I have to drive around, so I have to make some compromises.

[Blue Liquid]

Well this stinks. I can't stand the float. I was sure the Perf. Suspension would cure this nonsense. I didn't buy a plush Cadillac, I bought a supposed driving machine. Now I float down the street like I'm on a cloud. And you're exactly right, it's the rear end that floats, not the front. What struck me initially after installing this suspension was initial turn-in was sharp, and body roll was substantially reduced. But the float seems about the same to me. I didn't want 3rd party one-size-fits-all, fal apart after two years coilovers. I wanted an OEM solution. I'm pissed!

[Icecreamfoo]

Originally Posted by Blue Liquid

Well this stinks. I can't stand the float. I was sure the Perf. Suspension would cure this nonsense. I didn't buy a plush Cadillac, I bought a supposed driving machine. Now I float down the street like I'm on a cloud. And you're exactly right, it's the rear end that floats, not the front. What struck me initially after installing this suspension was initial turn-in was sharp, and body roll was substantially reduced. But the float seems about the same to me. I didn't want 3rd party one-size-fits-all, fal apart after two years coilovers. I wanted an OEM solution. I'm pissed!

I can only speak for myself, but I'm feeling I was in that exact same boat up until a month ago, when I put in M3 rear subframe bushings. originally I thought putting in an off the shelf coilover and M3 sway bars would solve the problem, that wasnt quite it. the handling did get much tighter and stiffer with the CO and sways, but the wobbly/floaty rear is always there. 4 little M3 rear subframe bushings almost completely solved that problem (major thanks to BrianMN). the rear stays much much more compliant under most conditions, especially when attacking freeway cloverleaf. If money is no issue (labor is very expensive) I highly recommend u give them bushings a try

[adc]

Originally Posted by Icecreamfoo

If money is no issue (labor is very expensive) I highly recommend u give them bushings a try

What about the M3 rear control arms, did anyone give them a try? (Although I do agree, money would be flying out the window).

My understanding from an article in Roundel (or was it Bimmer) is that BMW is using some of the stiffest springs they've ever used in a road car for the 135i perf suspension. If that is true, then a set of different rear shocks might do wonders.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by Icecreamfoo

I can only speak for myself, but I'm feeling I was in that exact same boat up until a month ago, when I put in M3 rear subframe bushings. originally I thought putting in an off the shelf coilover and M3 sway bars would solve the problem, that wasnt quite it. the handling did get much tighter and stiffer with the CO and sways, but the wobbly/floaty rear is always there. 4 little M3 rear subframe bushings almost completely solved that problem (major thanks to BrianMN). the rear stays much much more compliant under most conditions, especially when attacking freeway cloverleaf. If money is no issue (labor is very expensive) I highly recommend u give them bushings a try

The M3 rear subframe bushings will take away most of the deflection of the subframe under heavy accleration, deceleration and cornering loads. I wouldn't really describe it as been floaty without these bushings, but rather bouncy over bumps and a little nerous in the turns. The bushings alone may not cure the floaty feeling, however. The floaty feeling maybe cuased by an under dampen suspension, in other words the dampers or shocks aren't doing their job.

[jah29]

Originally Posted by adc

My understanding from an article in Roundel (or was it Bimmer) is that BMW is using some of the stiffest springs they've ever used in a road car for the 135i perf suspension. If that is true, then a set of different rear shocks might do wonders.

No way! Ordered a set of 135i performance springs and measured them myself. Got around 420lbs. 335i has 450, M3 has 550.

Measured roughly 160 for the 135i front performance springs.

[adc]

Originally Posted by jah29

No way! Ordered a set of 135i performance springs and measured them myself. Got around 420lbs. 335i has 450, M3 has 550.

Measured roughly 160 for the 135i front performance springs.

Hah! I guess we should never take things at face value...

[Blue Liquid]

Originally Posted by HP Autowerks

The floaty feeling maybe cuased by an under dampen suspension, in other words the dampers or shocks aren't doing their job.

This is my impression as well, based on what I know about how dampers work in relation to springs and other suspension components. When the car rises up after being compressed, for example on a freeway dip, I want it to come back down quickly and with authority, solid and tight. Settle back in quickly and without drama. Not a casual, 'down, up, down and back up again'. I may have to conclude that the BMW Performance Suspension designed for the 335i is still trying to accommodate BMW drivers who want cushy and soft. It's a compromise, really. Better than stock Sport, but still not quite good enough for my tastes. I'm being punished for not having enough money to buy the M3 and have the perfectly set up car for daily street driving.

At this point, I feel like anything else I do to my suspension is a gamble. I could try the bushings, spend a ton of money, etc. only to be disapointed once again. I feel like I need to drive a 335i with these bits in it already and then make a decision. Too bad BMW doesn't have test cars with these parts already installed.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by Blue Liquid

This is my impression as well, based on what I know about how dampers work in relation to springs and other suspension components. When the car rises up after being compressed, for example on a freeway dip, I want it to come back down quickly and with authority, solid and tight. Settle back in quickly and without drama. Not a casual, 'down, up, down and back up again'. I may have to conclude that the BMW Performance Suspension designed for the 335i is still trying to accommodate BMW drivers who want cushy and soft. It's a compromise, really. Better than stock Sport, but still not quite good enough for my tastes. I'm being punished for not having enough money to buy the M3 and have the perfectly set up car for daily street driving.

At this point, I feel like anything else I do to my suspension is a gamble. I could try the bushings, spend a ton of money, etc. only to be disapointed once again. I feel like I need to drive a 335i with these bits in it already and then make a decision. Too bad BMW doesn't have test cars with these parts already installed.

We have done all the R&D on the M3 bits and were the first to use them on our project 335i. I am certain there is another E90poster in your area with M3 bits on it.

I wish I had a pair of uses Koni dampers you can try on.

[jgalaxy]

Originally Posted by Blue Liquid

This is my impression as well, based on what I know about how dampers work in relation to springs and other suspension components. When the car rises up after being compressed, for example on a freeway dip, I want it to come back down quickly and with authority, solid and tight. Settle back in quickly and without drama. Not a casual, 'down, up, down and back up again'. I may have to conclude that the BMW Performance Suspension designed for the 335i is still trying to accommodate BMW drivers who want cushy and soft. It's a compromise, really. Better than stock Sport, but still not quite good enough for my tastes. I'm being punished for not having enough money to buy the M3 and have the perfectly set up car for daily street driving.

At this point, I feel like anything else I do to my suspension is a gamble. I could try the bushings, spend a ton of money, etc. only to be disapointed once again. I feel like I need to drive a 335i with these bits in it already and then make a decision. Too bad BMW doesn't have test cars with these parts already installed.

When I purchased my 335xi with sport package (who knew that 'sport' only covered seats and oil cooler), I was almost certain that my shoks were defective. Cutting a check for $2500 (grrr) for KWv3 and install all but removed that terrible floaty feeling and body roll you're talking about. What it didn't solve was the nervous sloppy feel that the rear end has under heavy wait shift (especially under hard braking). I feel your pain. Hope you settle on the right combo. Perhaps it's a new M3?

[e90pilot]

I noticed something very interesting the two time I went to the track. The first time I went I had worn shock mounts and stock wheel/tire setup. The car pushed pretty hard and felt really sloppy in the rear especially through highspeed corners. You could feel lateral suspension movement and the steering wheel would fight you as it ocillated. It was really hard to track a smooth line through long sweepers.

The second time I went I replaced the shock mounts with Dinan's and I put 8.5 in wheels with 245mm tires up front. The wired oscillation was gone and the balance was much better and predictable. Lateral suspension movement was greatly reduced. I was thinking about putting the m3 front tension rods and control arms on for the next time I go to the track. But for now I'm happy. If I had never read this thread I would probably leave my car alone.

[Blue Liquid]

Thank you all for the input, much appreciated. I never knew it could be so complicated to dial in suspension settings.

[CubanJJ09]

Solid thread here. Spent he whole night reading it. Needless to say the gf is pretty pissed. Anyways my "thrust rod bushing" are torn and leaking but are still Covered under warranty. After reading this thread I've gathered that the thrust rod is the upper control arm aka wishbone, which houses the bushing and the lower control arm is aka tension rod. Hopefully that's right or else I've wasted the thousands trips to and from realoem.

Is there and advantage of just having either of the control arms replaced? I'm sure I could buy the "m3 thrust rod aka Upper control arm aka wishbone and have it installed for free under warranty (assuming that they need to take off the old oem thrust rod to replace the bushing)? How much more labor time is needed to replace the tension bar if the main goal is to swap out trust bar? Also are there any other suspension parts (a side from coil-overs) that i should get done now to save on labor like a front sway? I'm Not a guru on suspension components so any questions comments and answers would be helpful. TIA

PS. I understand that rear bushings would help very much but the cost is too much at this time. I'm basically looking to beef up the front since I'm already having some work done up there. I know I can't fully ignore the rear to have a perfectly balanced car but are there any down falls to having a stiffer car up front without supporting the rear?