Front Sway Bar Angle?

pits200 · 01-16-2013, 05:30 PM

Trying to get things right with my ASTs. So being lowered it seems the holes on my front sway bar where the endlinks connect are aiming down towards the ground.

What is the angle of the hole suppose to be in relation to the car. Here is a horrible drawing if anyone can help, thanks.

MikeR1994 · 01-18-2013, 10:43 AM

I'm assuming you have adjustable end links? If so, get the front of your car up on ramps, or you could even do it on a curb if you have to. Just make sure the surface is as close to totally level as possible. Assuming the links are already installed but have yet to be adjusted, turn the links one way until you feel tension, then turn it the other way and count the amount of turns it takes before you feel tension. After you've done that, take half of that number and go back that many turns in the other direction. This will have your sway bar set at zero preload at it's set ride height. There are a few other things you can do to make it better like accounting for driver weight when adjusting them, but just having zero preload at the lower ride height should be enough. I wouldn't worry about the angle of the sway bar all that much. Just play with it if you have to.

NivMan · 01-18-2013, 11:25 AM

If your AST's have adjustable sway bar endlink tabs, they are a blessing and a curse.

It's a good feature but I think the execution could have been better. The collars are not very good at keeping the tab in place without rotating.

For me, it was an iterative process to set them up so that there was no preload on the sway bar. I first disconnected both links from the struts. After that, I put the wheels back on, drove up on ramps and then estimated where the tab should be for the end link to go in so that the rod end is parallel with the hole in the tab. Then, back on jackstands, took the wheels off (or else can't rotate the tab without it hitting the inner rim barrel), and rotated the tab to the height required. Then, I jacked up each side of the front to approximately the correct ride height (essentially, just until the car started barely coming off the jackstands).

Then, I bolted the end links in. Be sure to tighten the tab collars. I did not tighten them enough and it caused the tab to rotate when I turned the wheel which damaged one of the end link boots.

You may have to repeat the process until you get them perfectly correct to eliminate all preload. Remember that there should be no preload at the proper ride height so either drive up on ramps to load both wheels or jack both hubs up to the proper height.

01-16-2013, 05:30 PM	#1
pits200 Colonel 547 Rep 2,590 Posts Drives: 09 335i X-Drive Black Sapphire Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Pittsburgh iTrader: (1)	Front Sway Bar Angle? Trying to get things right with my ASTs. So being lowered it seems the holes on my front sway bar where the endlinks connect are aiming down towards the ground. What is the angle of the hole suppose to be in relation to the car. Here is a horrible drawing if anyone can help, thanks. Attached Images
	Appreciate 0 Tweet Quote

01-18-2013, 10:43 AM	#2
MikeR1994 Second Lieutenant 20 Rep 277 Posts Drives: 06 e90 325i, 05 325Ci (RIP) Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Charlotte, NC iTrader: (0) Garage List 2006 BMW 325i [0.00]	I'm assuming you have adjustable end links? If so, get the front of your car up on ramps, or you could even do it on a curb if you have to. Just make sure the surface is as close to totally level as possible. Assuming the links are already installed but have yet to be adjusted, turn the links one way until you feel tension, then turn it the other way and count the amount of turns it takes before you feel tension. After you've done that, take half of that number and go back that many turns in the other direction. This will have your sway bar set at zero preload at it's set ride height. There are a few other things you can do to make it better like accounting for driver weight when adjusting them, but just having zero preload at the lower ride height should be enough. I wouldn't worry about the angle of the sway bar all that much. Just play with it if you have to. __________________ -Michael Active Autowerke Stage II \| MMW CSv2 Exhaust \| MMW Catless Headers \| BC Racing BR Extreme Low Coilovers \| custom adjustable rear suspension links \| 19" Hyperblack CSL's \| M3 style front \| trim wrapped in brushed steel vinyl \| Slightly smoked tail lights with clear reverse lights \| factory xenons
	Appreciate 0 Quote

01-18-2013, 11:25 AM	#3
NivMan Banned 2 Rep 45 Posts Drives: '08 E90 335i Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Atlanta, GA iTrader: (0)	If your AST's have adjustable sway bar endlink tabs, they are a blessing and a curse. It's a good feature but I think the execution could have been better. The collars are not very good at keeping the tab in place without rotating. For me, it was an iterative process to set them up so that there was no preload on the sway bar. I first disconnected both links from the struts. After that, I put the wheels back on, drove up on ramps and then estimated where the tab should be for the end link to go in so that the rod end is parallel with the hole in the tab. Then, back on jackstands, took the wheels off (or else can't rotate the tab without it hitting the inner rim barrel), and rotated the tab to the height required. Then, I jacked up each side of the front to approximately the correct ride height (essentially, just until the car started barely coming off the jackstands). Then, I bolted the end links in. Be sure to tighten the tab collars. I did not tighten them enough and it caused the tab to rotate when I turned the wheel which damaged one of the end link boots. You may have to repeat the process until you get them perfectly correct to eliminate all preload. Remember that there should be no preload at the proper ride height so either drive up on ramps to load both wheels or jack both hubs up to the proper height.
	Appreciate 0 Quote