[The HACK]

Originally Posted by taibanl

I want to do a PAD ONLY swap for HPDE...does PFC 01 still fit the bill?

My ONLY recommendation is, keep your street pads in the same "family."

Personal experience and anecdotal evidence, so take it with a grain of salt.

I used to run OEM street pads, and swap out for Cobalt XR3s for the track on same RacingBrake rotors. No big deal, except on track in 2 sessions I'd get nasty brake pad deposit. Like shockingly bad. I knew they were deposits so I didn't care that much, but sure made for an interesting drive for the next week on the street every time I go to brake. Eventually when I swapped over to Hawk DTC60s for track and Hawk HPS street pads, the problem magically went away.

So if you experience weird deposit problems, I'd suggest switching to PFC Z Rated pads for street use and see if the problem goes away. Otherwise, while the deposit problem was annoying, it didn't stop me from enjoying the car on track nor does it bother me that much on the street (it goes away in about a week, or whenever I wash my car).

[DallasBoosted]

I run stoptech street performance pads and swap them out for pfc06's on the track.

[TSM330i]

We just ran the 12 Hour Devil in the Dark at NJMP. We had to stop at hour 8 due to lighting failure, but had we finished the race, we would have been able to run the full 12 hours straight on one set of brake pads.
The Pagid RS29
http://store.zeckhausen.com/catalog/...ducts_id=13894

The race car weighs 3,260lbs without the driver (it's a porky e92 335) and 6-piston front, 4-piston rear Stoptech brakes.
The initial bit, modulation and lack of fade was fantastic for any brake pad, let alone one that is specifically designed for distance/endurance racing.
We were going to go with the PFC, but in speaking to the tech guys at Zeckhausen, they suggested the Pagid RS29. We are extremely happy with the pads and will not be running anything else.

I can't even imagine how long these pads would last for HPDE.

[taibanl]

Picked up PFC08 F&R

[taibanl]

Originally Posted by The HACK

My ONLY recommendation is, keep your street pads in the same "family."

Personal experience and anecdotal evidence, so take it with a grain of salt.

I used to run OEM street pads, and swap out for Cobalt XR3s for the track on same RacingBrake rotors. No big deal, except on track in 2 sessions I'd get nasty brake pad deposit. Like shockingly bad. I knew they were deposits so I didn't care that much, but sure made for an interesting drive for the next week on the street every time I go to brake. Eventually when I swapped over to Hawk DTC60s for track and Hawk HPS street pads, the problem magically went away.

So if you experience weird deposit problems, I'd suggest switching to PFC Z Rated pads for street use and see if the problem goes away. Otherwise, while the deposit problem was annoying, it didn't stop me from enjoying the car on track nor does it bother me that much on the street (it goes away in about a week, or whenever I wash my car).

Vibration problems?

[akotten]

Originally Posted by rheemix

Per HACK's recommendation, I used the chart below, and ordered HB362's for the rear. It was a perfect fit with smaller clips, which I liked because it made the installation easier.

http://store.bimmerworld.com/hawk-ra...unds-p693.aspx

Have you tried them at the track yet? Interesting because that's the recommended rear pad for the E46 I was looking at, but he specifically stated they wouldn't fit.

[akotten]

Originally Posted by rheemix

Yes. I installed them last Friday at the track, and just took them off about 2 hours ago. I got HT-10's all around to even things out, and so far, I'm very happy with the set. I'll have to see how long it lasts, though.

Again, I got 362's, NOT 518's. 518's may still fit, but it actually is a bit taller than 362's. I think HACK was simply trying to give you heads up, just in case. Brakes are very sensitive with not much tolerances (I'm a brakes engineer), but in this case, we got lucky and 362's work just fine for our brakes. Because of smaller clips, lack of chamfer and no lubricant, it was a bit noisy, but I couldn't care less about brake noise at the track as long as it stops the car as expected. And it definitely did.

Ok great! So 551 for the front and 362 for the rear. Do you have the part number? I was wanting to buy them from TireRack, and I wanted to verify the part number that shows up for the E46.


Edit: "Manufacturer Part #: HB518E.642" Looks like TireRack doesn't offer the correct rear pad. They have a special on the HB551 Hawk Blue for $135!

Front should be: HB551S.748 (HT-10)
Rears should be: HB362S.642 (HT-10)

[BlueMax16]

I use Hawk HT-10s in the front only with stock rotors. I change them at the track at the start of an event and return to OEM at the end. I do it at the track because there are plenty of people and tools to help if anything goes wrong.

I've had several instructors amazed at how well the HT-10s stop my wagon after a trip at 110 mph down the front straight.

[FOM E92]

Carbotech XP8 on the BMW. Ran 10/12 on the Corvette. Great track pads.

[ashmostro]

FWIW I am running Racingbrake XT910s on all four corners of my 'iS and they are a tad noisy on the street but have great feel. Will be tracking them for the first time in less than a month so can't comment directly there, but I have run their lower-spec ET800 on the track with good performance but with thermal issues (smearing at the ends of the stints). I expect the XT910s with their higher-temp range to perform better as a so-called hybrid pad.

I run slotted rotors, ECS SS lines, and Motul RBF600 fluid.

[TSM330i]

We ran the Pagid RS29 again this past weekend in the BMWCCA Endurance Series on the 335 at Mid-Ohio.

Four hours straight without any issues at all. No vibration, great feel, great modulation and perfect release. We both pushed the car pretty hard too since we had a flat tire on the very first lap and had to push to make up time. We ended up coming in third overall, second in class.

My best lap time was a 1:40.7 during the race. I've never been to the track before and really had to learn it as I was racing. I took nine seconds off my practice time!

[FOM E92]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

FWIW I am running Racingbrake XT910s on all four corners of my 'iS and they are a tad noisy on the street but have great feel. Will be tracking them for the first time in less than a month so can't comment directly there, but I have run their lower-spec ET800 on the track with good performance but with thermal issues (smearing at the ends of the stints). I expect the XT910s with their higher-temp range to perform better as a so-called hybrid pad.

I run slotted rotors, ECS SS lines, and Motul RBF600 fluid.

Not familiar with those pads. I was told Performance friction was a good pad for our cars, but the backing plates make them extremely prone to rattling and noise. I'm super comfortable with Carbotech.

Ash, have you considered the Motul 660 they have out now? I'm told you get a little more out of that compared to the 600...my brakes were going away on day 2, which was ok, because the power was down from the oil temps also...LOL.

[ashmostro]

RB is a good competitor to Ctech- in fact they hate each other due to some silly drama that wasn't handled well by either company IMO. I am running RB simply because I have before- it's a known quantity to me. LOVE their 2 piece rotors, btw. Great upgrade for our cars if you don't want ot go BBK, but they are not compatible with softer pads like Ctech.

And yes, I've considered 660 but I won't go up to it until I start boiling the 600. Just costs more so it's really more of an "if I need it" kind of thing.

Have you boiled 600 for certain?

[ashmostro]

Originally Posted by The HACK

I used to run OEM street pads, and swap out for Cobalt XR3s for the track on same RacingBrake rotors. No big deal, except on track in 2 sessions I'd get nasty brake pad deposit. Like shockingly bad. I knew they were deposits so I didn't care that much, but sure made for an interesting drive for the next week on the street every time I go to brake. Eventually when I swapped over to Hawk DTC60s for track and Hawk HPS street pads, the problem magically went away.

RB rotors use really really hard alloy, that needs an aggressively hard pad to work well or you get deposit. This happens with CTech pads on RB rotors too (as I said right above). Hawk falls into the category of an aggressive pad and is actually recommended by RB as a "compatible" pad on their site for this very reason.

You may already know all that- I'm just posting for the benefit of those who don't and are considering RB rotors, which are great.

[FOM E92]

I have not in this car. I lost a lot of pedal near the end of day 2, but I can't say I was boiling them. I know my friend Matt did in his Viper...but obviously his car is going a lot faster into the braking zones. I would consider it for peace of mind, and even though it's more expensive, I think it's still a lot less than SRF.

[ashmostro]

Yeah I've definitely considered it. Good to know thanks man.

[WickedB]

I'll be doing my first BMWCCA HPDE event June 21st at Waterford hills raceway (MI), so I assume I'll first be put into the beginner class. It's a 1.5 mile track (see pic below).

Question is would the OEM rotors and pads be ok for this event or am I setting myself up for a world of hurt and I should just spend the $$$ for a dedicated track rotor/pad setup?? Thanks.

[ashmostro]

I personally would look into track pads and fresh hi temp fluid. Rotors will be fine if cleaned and bedded properly.

I am hard on brakes so take it fwiw.

[raceyBMW]

You will be fine with OEM, especially in beginner class. They are still very good, and will not fade too bad unless you are really hard on them, or are obtaining high speeds.

[WickedB]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

I personally would look into track pads and fresh hi temp fluid. Rotors will be fine if cleaned and bedded properly.

I am hard on brakes so take it fwiw.

I just flushed the brake fluid and refilled with ATE super blue... so I'm good there.. thanks for the info..

Originally Posted by raceyBMW

You will be fine with OEM, especially in beginner class. They are still very good, and will not fade too bad unless you are really hard on them, or are obtaining high speeds.

That's what I'm thinking.. plus my pad are almost new.. fronts have like 90%, rears have 99% (just changed them), and I flushed the brake fluid a month ago and refilled with ATE super blue.

Originally Posted by rheemix

I ran Waterford Hills a couple of times on stock pads. Brakes will fade, but it'll still stop the car just fine. You just have to press the brake pedal a little bit harder. You don't get to build up a lot of speed at Waterford Hills, and it's a relatively easy-on-brakes track.

One thing to keep in mind, though, is that although you'll get through the track day without any issues on stock pads, the pads will wear very fast in white smoke. So, if you plan on doing this on regular basis (2-3 times a year or more) you may actually save money by going with something better. If you don't mind changing pads for every event, getting dedicated pads is obviously better, but if this is something that you're not comfortable with, some dual-purpose pads, such as Cool Carbons or EBC Yellowstuff will last much longer than your stock pads while providing "some" improvement on brake fades. I ran Cool Carbon for about 30000 miles with about 6 track days.

Have fun at Waterford, and be careful at the top of the hill as there is no run off at all.

Yea I'm torn at the moment.. this will be my first track day ever so I'm either going to love it and be spending $$$ for improvements afterward OR it may turn out to be... not really for me so there may be no need to spend money on extras. I'm thinking I'm gonna love it though and be hooked! lol

Thanks for the info, I'm excited for Waterford hills! You didn't crash at the top of the hill did you?!?

[ashmostro]

interested to hear how it goes. please let us know.

[akotten]

Just finished a two day driving school. I was using Hawk HT-10's, Ate super blue fluid, and Dunlop Direzza ZII's. Fantastic setup! The car treated me well too...no codes or limp modes at all!