[snowymountains]

I started on replacing the front wheel bearings on my 2006 330xi today and ran into a snag.

I have the SIR Tools B-90 kit however, the barrel that comes with it is too small in diameter. I ordered it from Bavarian Auto a while back.

Just wanted to let others know that the front wheel bearings are larger in diameter than the rear bearings.

So, I'm off to find something to fab up to finish the job.

Or, if anyone knows if there is a specific kit that has a barrel diameter that works let me know.

I'll post shots of whatever contraption I come up with!!

[stashtrey]

Go to Harbor Freight. They have a universal AWD bearing R&R kit that works for multiple size bearings. I got one. Have you seen the youtube from Edz Garage?

I'm getting ready to do this as well so very curious how you get this done. Mind sharing some steps and especially how you get the half shaft out?

Are you trying to do the replacement with the steering arm/strut mount still on the car?

[stashtrey]

I will get my kit out and measure the barrels against the new F.A.G. bearings I have for my job. Hang tight.

[stashtrey]

Here is part 1 of 2 of a guy doing a bmw bearing with the harbor freight tools. Been planning my front XI bearings based on this procedure. Have the same tools he has in the videos.

Wheel Bearing Install with Harbor Freight Univers…:

[pits200]

I have that wheel bearing tool, good luck using it. Such a waste of money, my air tool stripped the threads off the long bolt goog through. It is a very cheap kit for these wheel bearings. I was able to get the bearings out but could not press the new ones in. Easiest thing to do is remove the entire knuckle and take it to a machine shop to press in the new bearings for $15.

[snowymountains]

That video looks like an E46 ?? Similar but there are some minor differences.

I may go look at that Harbor Freight tool. I think that is the only one I don't have! Judging by their specs it does look like the kit has a barrel that would work. I often use the old bearing sleeve to install the new bearings.

To get the half/shaft/Axle out I loosened the lower control arms where they attach to the car. Took off the tie rod end and then took out the strut clamp bolt and dropped the spindle down far enough to get the axle out, moved the axle to the side and reattached the spindle/strut to remove hub & bearing. Get the axle loose in the splines before all of this though. And you will have to play with the axle some as it binds a little as you lower the spindle down away from the strut.

I know some have had trouble getting the axle spline out, but I've not had any issues. I use an air hammer with a tip I modified.

I'll try to do a DIY on the passenger side and a few tips about the drivers side. I think I found something about an E90 bearing job but in all of the searches I have done there wasn't a lot out there.

I'm also replacing the front strut/shock and rear shocks with Koni FSD's!

[stashtrey]

Originally Posted by pits200

I have that wheel bearing tool, good luck using it. Such a waste of money, my air tool stripped the threads off the long bolt goog through. It is a very cheap kit for these wheel bearings. I was able to get the bearings out but could not press the new ones in. Easiest thing to do is remove the entire knuckle and take it to a machine shop to press in the new bearings for $15.

Which tool are you referring to? OP's or the Harbour Freight kit?


OP- if you do a DIY I will send you a case of your favorite beer!

[critical05]

Anyone try cooling the bearings with pelletized dry ice and heating the hub with a heat gun so the bearing just slides in?

I've done it on industrial gearbox bearings in the field when I don't have access to a bearing chiller.

[snowymountains]

I can say that the Harbor Freight Front Wheel Drive wheel bearing kit has the right sized barrel and bushing to do the front wheel bearings on my 06 330xi.

I can also say that buy and use this kit at your own risk!!! I got one today and was able to get one wheel bearing out. The threaded rod is junk. The threads are very week and consequently they stripped. I'm returning for a new kit only because I want a new threaded rod to have on display.

Once I get a replacement kit, I'm drilling out the hole so I can use the threaded rod from the B90 kit. What a pita
The B90 Rod is larger in diameter so I'll have to drill out the HF pieces.


I will get a DIY up for this in the next week to several days. Depends on how much editing I'll need to do on the video to make it kid friendly!!!


Critical05.....I have not used pelletized dry ice before. I've never been a big fan of heating up things like this and only do it if all else fails.

[stashtrey]

Oh that sucks!

Did it strip out when pulling or pushing? Or combo of both? I wonder I'd they're all weak and prone to stripping? Did you use an impact or all breaker/ratchet?

How long would you say a single front side would take for someone who has never done it...but has all the tools and has studied the DIY 100x??

I'm torn between just saying F it and digging in right now....or making an appointment. I figured I'd save around $2k after all four corners with this solution. Last quote from local indy is $500 per corner. Ouch.

Now even more stressed!

[stashtrey]

BTW...sorry for your troubles. This is my fear...getting it undone and not being able to get it back together. I've tried to prepare for all scenarios....never even thought of the rod stripping out.

Hope you get it sorted without any more headaches.

[stashtrey]

Originally Posted by pits200

Easiest thing to do is remove the entire knuckle and take it to a machine shop to press in the new bearings for $15.

....or get the table top press from ...dare I say....Harbour FRIGHT?

[snowymountains]

Originally Posted by stashtrey

Oh that sucks!

Did it strip out when pulling or pushing? Or combo of both? I wonder I'd they're all weak and prone to stripping? Did you use an impact or all breaker/ratchet?

How long would you say a single front side would take for someone who has never done it...but has all the tools and has studied the DIY 100x??

I'm torn between just saying F it and digging in right now....or making an appointment. I figured I'd save around $2k after all four corners with this solution. Last quote from local indy is $500 per corner. Ouch.

Now even more stressed!

I'd say maybe 2-3 hours per side pending no major setbacks. A lot of rust can make things take longer.

Did not use an impact. I don't like using them with things like this. It stripped during the removal. Had a heck of time getting the nut back off. Even greased up everything. If you look at the threads of a ball joint press or even the B90 tool they are deep and much courser than this kit. The threads on the HF kit are fine and shallow.

The rears aren't too bad but the drivers side rear requires the removal of the exhaust to get the axle out. And you have to mess around with the parking brakes.

[stashtrey]

Thanks for the follow up reply, OP! I'm going to inspect the kit from HF I have and make a decision this afternoon. I'm either all in or I'm going to get the bad bearing done at a shop and find another DIY solution before the next one goes (knock on wood).

Good luck with the rest of the project. thanks for the great information!!!

[stashtrey]

Originally Posted by snowymountains

I'd say maybe 2-3 hours per side pending no major setbacks. A lot of rust can make things take longer.

Did not use an impact. I don't like using them with things like this. It stripped during the removal. Had a heck of time getting the nut back off. Even greased up everything. If you look at the threads of a ball joint press or even the B90 tool they are deep and much courser than this kit. The threads on the HF kit are fine and shallow.

The rears aren't too bad but the drivers side rear requires the removal of the exhaust to get the axle out. And you have to mess around with the parking brakes.

PS - PB Blaster a good idea before removal? I'd think soaking the shit out of it might help break up the rust and give me a fighting chance.

[pits200]

PB Blast does nothing but it can't hurt.

Just as snowy said, the rod on my harbor freight tool got the bearing out but only got the bearing halfway in before it was stripped to hell. Returned the kit got a new rod, tried it on the other side and this was with a bearing in the fridge for about 24 hours and a torch to the hub and still it stripped.

The harbor freight tool has nice accessories it's just the rod is a piece of crap.

And no reason to buy a tabletop press for the few amount of times I need to do a job like this.

As for time, if I had to do it again, to remove the entire spindle would only take about 45 minutes then another 45 minutes to install once someone presses in the bearing for me. First time around, expect it to be about 1.5 hours removal plus 1.5 install.

[snowymountains]

Success!! Got my drivers side bearing in!!
A combination of the Harbor Freight Kit and the Sir Tools B90 Kit.

I got the Harbor Freight Front Wheel Drive bearing kit replaced with a new one!

I used the bushing from the HF kit that was the right diameter for the new bearing..the one that almost covered the whole bearing (you want to press on the outer race).

I used a 7/8" drill bit to make the hole larger. I used the threaded rod and nut from the B90 kit, the largest barrel and barrel plate from the B90 kit for the installation. Worked like a champ!

I have attached pictures to help illustrate.

As a side note the other problem with the B90 kit is that the bushings are too small for installing the front and the rear. They do not match up with the outer bearing race so when using them you are actually pressing on the inner race....I never like doing that! When I used the B90 kit on my rear bearings a few weeks ago I improvised a little with a metal plate and then used the old bearing to get the new one pressed in.

With the HF kit you at least have the right size bushings.

I'll drill out the other bushings later this week for the removal of the passenger side bearing.

I'll video the whole procedure on the passenger side along with a couple photos of the drivers side that you need to know about and post it as soon as I can. Hope it helps.

[pits200]

Jesus, you were able to remove it with just hand tools and no air gun?

[snowymountains]

Originally Posted by pits200

Jesus, you were able to remove it with just hand tools and no air gun?

Yeah...it took a little longer I have air but I prefer to not use that with these types of press kits unless I have to.

I have a huge 3/4" ratchet kit and on the removal I used a cheater bar with it.
On the installation I just used a long 24mm wrench. I put a light coat of grease on the hub and the new bearing went in like butter.

I should note that the B90 tool requires a 27mm wrench/socket on the long nut and a 24mm wrench/socket on the bolt. I say this because a 27mm wrench was not in my arsenal !!

[stashtrey]

Wow. Thank you so much for the pics, your experience and solution. Huge. I wonder if I can find a bigger rod? Do you recall how much that original tool was?

[snowymountains]

It was $250 from bavauto

I don't know where you would find a rod like it.

You might get away witha hardened steel bolt with course threads and a nut. If I did this I would get washers to and grease them. The great thing about the B90 rod is it has a small bearing at the only head which makes it easier to turn.

If I didn't have the B90 I would get a hardened bolt setup from the hardware store.

[critical05]

I was initially going to suggest buying a socket head cap screw since most of them are grade 8 or higher. Problem is that at the longer lengths needed, they typically are partially threaded bolts.

You can get grade 8 all thread rod, you get the strength and its fully threaded. You have to buy some nuts as well. I didn't know what size the bolt in the kit, I just assumed 3/4" would be a step up. With three feet, even if you do strip it, you have 3, 1 foot rods you can cut up.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#90322a450/=s2cg1k

They carry other sizes, just offering other alternatives to the cheap bolt provided in the kit.