[makkan00]

Originally Posted by Hope

Thanks Makkan,

The yellow cables don't seem to want to disconnect from each other though :S

There is a ridge b/w clips. Use the pin to press it and it should release.

[Hope]

Thanks Makkan

Will try again, I tried a pin before but it didn't work, will try again though and update

[Hope]

BMW Parts closed today so wasn't able to get the clip I broke so have left the doors.

Managed to get the wiring all in to the boot and to the front door sills.

Removed the plastic bit (boot bench style thing) to make it easier to get the right boot lining in. All in all quite easy to do.

Also used a metal wire hanger to get the wire from rear door sill to front which went well too! Just waiting for my heatshrink sleeving to arrive now! Hoping it is easy to disconnect those tweeters!

[AdrianSi]

With regards to the 'sat nav' connectors, I think is to do with the headunit outputs (pre-amp) as the Pro nav outputs are greater. I remember reading somewhere on here, I think it was on the global e90post Audio section, where somebody had taken the crossover units apart to work out exactly what they're doing. As I remember there are two seperate circuits within the units. I will try and uncover this thread and post it back here.

[tazg101]

now running alpine speakers, with hi fi coding and L7 subs. Subs are a massive improvement over stock and I recommend these to anyone thinking about the alpine upgrade.

[Hope]

Originally Posted by AdrianSi

With regards to the 'sat nav' connectors, I think is to do with the headunit outputs (pre-amp) as the Pro nav outputs are greater. I remember reading somewhere on here, I think it was on the global e90post Audio section, where somebody had taken the crossover units apart to work out exactly what they're doing. As I remember there are two seperate circuits within the units. I will try and uncover this thread and post it back here.

Thanks Adrian

I don't just post on here without first scouring the internet for clues. The only ones I found were that:

The 622 plug has a 6DB higher attenuation therefore when amped and used with Nav tweeters may be damaged, luckily my amp is yet to be wired in.

Secondly regarding the connectors I read that they only go in one way, but I know many people have disconnected and changed the plugs, I just don't know how yet, I suspect a pin must be used to push what appears to be a latch but I don't want to rush and cause any damage!

Appreciate everyones help here so far

Regards

[Per Hansson]

Originally Posted by AdrianSi

With regards to the 'sat nav' connectors, I think is to do with the headunit outputs (pre-amp) as the Pro nav outputs are greater. I remember reading somewhere on here, I think it was on the global e90post Audio section, where somebody had taken the crossover units apart to work out exactly what they're doing. As I remember there are two seperate circuits within the units. I will try and uncover this thread and post it back here.

Maybe there exists a more detailed one than this post?
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...7&postcount=12

Originally Posted by Hope

Secondly regarding the connectors I read that they only go in one way, but I know many people have disconnected and changed the plugs, I just don't know how yet, I suspect a pin must be used to push what appears to be a latch but I don't want to rush and cause any damage!

They are a bitch to take apart, it's even worse to get the connector out of the amplifier if you need to do that...
It's nothing special, just press the clip down and pull apart, be sure not to pull on the cables!

[AdrianSi]

Originally Posted by Per Hansson

Maybe there exists a more detailed one than this post?
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...7&postcount=12

I think that's the photo that i remember for sure. Tried searching but couldn't find even that. Well done!

[Per Hansson]

When coding the car to remove the equalization done, which connector on the filter should be used then?
Or is the "Plug & Play" cabling for the newer E90's without this filter all together so that's why they require coding?

[Hope]

Please can someone tell me how I have ended up with not enough wire on the passenger side!! Argh!! :K

[Per Hansson]

Maybe you put them down the wrong side?
The left vs right sides cables are probably of different length

[Hope]

Originally Posted by Per Hansson

Maybe you put them down the wrong side?
The left vs right sides cables are probably of different length

No I did that right :S

I did follow the duct up on the left? I will have a fish around tomorrow, just didn't really want to have to take the back seat off again

There is loads of spare cable on the right!

[Hope]

Turns out after all that I had connected them up right!

Not even hit 30 and already losing my memory!!

How did people get on determining which wire is which (radio/sub) on the left side??

EDIT: I'm thinking leave the pair of thick wires you suspect to be from the radio connected to the thin speaker wires. Connect the car back up. If sound plays from the door then you have the radio pair. If there is no sound at all then you have wired the sub to the speakers. Either way no damage is caused because you are either ignoring the sub or ignoring all speakers.

[AdrianSi]

Like so:-
These are further down the sill than the drivers side. I removed the kick panel on this side to aid access to the wiring. Due to this location it is more difficult to identify the headunit and subwoofer wires. So i cut off the BMW joint and used a multimeter to check continuity between the Sub connector and the now exposed wiring:-


I did this to be safe but could have probably guessed it. It wasnt quite as straight forward as the manual makes out on this side of the car.

[Hope]

I did see that but have never used a voltmeter and didn't quite understand what to connect up to what. :S

Did you understand my theory that if you connect what you think to be the radio to what you know to be the door the door speakers will work and the sub will be then essentially disconnected. But if you have accidentally connected the door speakers to the sub, then you will get no sound and at the same time have caused no damage.

[Tim182]

I have a 2007 E90 with the base stereo (6 speakers) and professional HU. Would like to do the Alpine upgrade.

Do I need recoding of the HU for the 684 kit on my car?

[Hope]

Quick update!

All wired up and working! Excellent upgrade

Wired up as in the manual with Amp Switch in Position 2 (unsure what Position 1 does exactly - have read it boosts subs). Sat Nav, PDC and Gongs all work fine.

Thanks for all the help here. I don't think I need any re-coding, I have put treble on -2 and I am quite happy with that as it is. (?)

Tim what is 684?

[Tim182]

Originally Posted by Hope

Quick update!

All wired up and working! Excellent upgrade

Wired up as in the manual with Amp Switch in Position 2 (unsure what Position 1 does exactly - have read it boosts subs). Sat Nav, PDC and Gongs all work fine.

Thanks for all the help here. I don't think I need any re-coding, I have put treble on -2 and I am quite happy with that as it is. (?)

Tim what is 684?

You seem to get two Alpine kits with different part numbers. One for older cars one for newer cars. 684 are the last three numbers of the part number, the ones which differ. This is the one for the older cars. What year is yours?

[Hope]

I used the older kit, The manual for that kit says no coding is required.

If I was you I would get it all installed and then decide if you think it requires coding or not.

Your car will definitely require the older kit.

[Tim182]

Originally Posted by Hope

I used the older kit, The manual for that kit says no coding is required.

If I was you I would get it all installed and then decide if you think it requires coding or not.

Your car will definitely require the older kit.

Planning on installing it myself. The dealer is asking rip-off prices... I'll take the advice and decide on coding once its installed, thanks

[Hope]

Originally Posted by makkan00

Hope,
You set the amp to position one after coding it.
I guess you have not heard the sound on coded HU + Alpine kit, hence you cannot complaint.

After coding your headunit, you can keep your treble max to 0-2 and bass to 0-1 on max volume without distortion.

If you have worked that hard to get it installed, don't miss out the coding bit.

I have coded 05-11 3 and 1 series to hi-fi and all of them always appreciated the quality of sound after hi-fi coding.


Also don't forget that I am travelling to manchester today so if your location is somewhere near to that, then shoot me a pm to get it coded.

Thanks Makkan!

Does it affect PDC/Nav at all?

Do you code it as Alpine or Hi-Fi?

Regards

[makkan00]

Originally Posted by Hope

Thanks Makkan!

Does it affect PDC/Nav at all?

Do you code it as Alpine or Hi-Fi?

Regards

It is hi-fi coding and done for Alpine kit as well.

It does not affect NAV at all. About PDC, it is bit random. 8/10 cars no issues.

I had only 2 cars on which PDC gongs were reduced. And no body has done it, but I managed to code gongs back to its normal volume while retaining the hi-fi codings on one car (07) whereas on the other car, I could not.