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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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*Wastegate Ticking Noise Found*
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04-06-2008, 08:16 PM | #45 |
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Can you move the Wastegate Actuator Rod back and forth at all?
You could always try taking the C-clip off and then shorten the Actuator Rod a few turns, it will hold the wastegate flapper closed tighter and won't let it vibrate. |
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04-06-2008, 08:31 PM | #46 |
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I agree that you should adjust that rod screw to put more tension and maybe it might eliminate the ticking...I mean the screw on the rod looks like there is no lock washer of any sort...Vibrations from engine can loosen it up, maybe causing this tick...Try turning the screw making more tension!
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04-06-2008, 08:54 PM | #47 | |
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In order to create tension, you will need to take apart everything and unscrew the metal piece a full rotation and then screw down the 10mm nut. This isn't the cause because there was no way that this happened by itself.
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04-06-2008, 09:00 PM | #48 | |
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04-06-2008, 09:05 PM | #49 |
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I fixed it guys!!!
I fixed it!!!!! (for a couple seconds anyway) Video is being uploaded in youtube as we speak. I wedged a putty knife in where the yellow connector is in here and it worked after a couple trys.
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04-06-2008, 09:14 PM | #50 | |
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If you really found a solution to this, you are e90post MEMEBER OF THE YEAR. I am definitely going to tell my dealership about this FIND and see if they can fix it when i take it in again this week (**attempt #4) |
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04-06-2008, 09:20 PM | #52 |
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You are the mannnnnnn... Kudos to you...
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04-06-2008, 09:29 PM | #53 |
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Putty knife mod FTW!
Just get some two ton epoxy or JB weld to hold it in place |
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04-06-2008, 09:42 PM | #54 |
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Here's the video.
It took me a while to get that putty knife in a position to where it would stay. At the 2 minute mark it finally stays and then falls out again. It was so nice to not hear the ticking sound when reving for 2 seconds.
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04-06-2008, 09:47 PM | #55 |
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Damn, even at idle you can hear it....
Hopefully you can figure out a solution soon. It shouldnt be to hard now that you know what to correct....
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04-06-2008, 09:48 PM | #56 |
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What about shoving a E-clip, or C-clip in there to take up the space?
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04-06-2008, 09:56 PM | #58 | |
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I dont think it would matter if you wrapped the wire to put tension on it from the left or the right side of the rod. As long as there is tension. Fill the gap....C clip or wire! |
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04-06-2008, 10:04 PM | #60 | |
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In this pic, is there something that can be adjusted from the inside of the exhaust? I don't know if this is the front turbo or the rear.
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04-06-2008, 10:07 PM | #61 | |
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I used a putty knife to prove a point! Of course the next step is to use some sort of clip of some kind. If I'm smart enough to figure this out, then at least give me some credit to not drive around with a fricken putty knife strapped to my engine.
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04-06-2008, 10:12 PM | #62 |
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I didn't expect that you would. Just the thought of getting it done!! The putty knife is obviously temporary solution.
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04-06-2008, 10:17 PM | #63 |
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I'm wondering if the DP installation had anything to do with this rod being loose...I mean the mechanic could have wedged a tool or the clamp that connects the DPs to the turbos could have damaged the rod some other way during the installation of from what I hear a VERY tight fit of the aftermarket DP...Even so the OEM ones are a bitch to get off too which also during that process could have damaged the rod!
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04-06-2008, 10:58 PM | #64 | |
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I've actually done the installation twice. Also, this is obviously not a DP issue since AU335 and others have the same issue with the stock DPs. As for the picture, it was taken by someone else with their car..
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04-06-2008, 11:14 PM | #65 | |
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04-06-2008, 11:14 PM | #66 |
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This is my 5th turbo car, not saying that I know a lot about turbos, but one common thing with all internally gated turbos, like our stock turbos, is that the wastegate parts (diaphram rod, c-clip, flapper, flapper rod) should not slide AT ALL under all conditions, which means everything should be spot on from manufacturer, as well as the compressor & turbine wheels to the shaft connecting the wheels & the bearings around it. I don't know how yours happened, but saying that the engine's vibration causes the problem is a complete joke. It's either your turbo is somehow a defective unit, or improper installation procedure, or the downpipes weren't made perfectly. I would lean towards the downpipe design because I'd seen many pictures where the pipes are touching each other, and when you are boosting, generating 1200+F of heat, even iron would soften a bit, plus the "not-so-well-made" downpipes, everything shifts. My cousin has an 07 335xi, bone stock with 24k on the clock, it sounds and drives like when he took delivery.
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